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The  Call  of  the  Golden  Port. 

Te  that  be  trodden  underfoot  and  scattered 
As  smoke  wreaths  in  the  rain , 

All  the  white  dreams  that  ye  have  spent  and  shattered 
I will  make  whole  again. 

Te  that  be  thralls  of  outworn  generations 
And  seekers  in  the  nighty 
Tfltme,  out  of  my  proud  place  among  the  nations. 

Behold  I give  you  light. 

* * * 

Tear,  all  your  toil  shall  be  to  you  as  pleasure. 

And  all  your  blood  as  wine. 

The  songs  you  sing  shall  have  a dancing  measure , 

Such  flowered  air  is  mine. 

And  of  your  shadowy  peril  shall  be  sharers. 

And  of  your  undigged  gold. 

The  ghostly  galleons  of  the  old  seafarers 
That  found  the  Gate  of  old. 

They,  sailing  through  the  sunset  out  of  shadow. 

Shall  watch  with  you  and  wait. 

And  with  you  lift  their  songs  of  Eldorado 
Beyojid  the  Golden  Gate . 


—Ethel  Talbot. 


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SAN  FRANCISCO 

•AS  IT  WAS- 

AS  IT  IS  • AND  HOW  TO  SEE  IT 

BY 

HELEN  THROOP  PURDY 


“I  saw  a multitude  of 
men  coming  toward  us- 1 saw  them 
coming  from  every  direction, 
filing  all  the  roads” 

“St,  Francis  of  Assisi 


PAUL  ELDER  AND  COMPANY 
PUBLISHERS- SAN  FRANCISCO 


To  those  who  have  so  cordially  granted  permission 
to  quote  from  their  writings,  sincere  thanks  are  of- 
fered; also  to  the  editors  of  Sunset  Magazine  and 
Town  Talk,  and  to  the  following  publishers  for 
courtesies  extended:  Houghton  Mifflin  Company, 
Doubleday,  Page  & Company,  Whitaker  & Ray, 
Bobbs-Merrill  Company,  Life  Publishing  Company 


Copyright,  1912 
Paul  Elder  & Company 


Looking  Out  the  Goiden  Gate. 


The 

Introduction 

Contents 

Page 

ix 

From  Early  Days 

3 

Physical  Characteristics 

• 38 

Ferry  Building  and  Water  Front 

52 

Street  Car  Systems 

. 

• 56 

Golden  Gate  Park  . 

• 

61 

The  Smaller  Parks 

• 

81 

Government  Reservations  . 

• • • • • 

91 

The  Old  Mission 

• O • • . • 

98 

Churches  .... 

..... 

107 

Cemeteries  .... 

• • • • . . 

. 1 19 

Public  Buildings 

..... 

. 122 

Banks  ..... 

1 27 

Commercial  Buildings 

• • . . 

129 

Unique  Shops 

. • • 

• 1 3i 

Chinatown  .... 

137 

Hotels  .... 

• 0 . . 

. 142 

Restaurants  .... 

..... 

146 

Theaters  .... 

...... 

• 1 53 

Clubs,  Societies,  Lodges 

# . . . . 

159 

Libraries  .... 

...... 

. 166 

Museums  and  Art  Galleries 

. . . . . 

171 

Schools  and  Colleges 

. . c . « . 

176 

Hospitals  .... 

. . . , . 

178 

Monuments  .... 

. . . 

. 180 

The  Press  ..... 

• • • • c 

182 

How  to  See  the  City  . 

. . . . % 

. 195 

The  Environs  .... 

. . . . . 

199 

Index  ..... 

. 

. 217 

[iii] 


The  Golden  Gate  and  Mile  Rock  Lighthou'se. 


Illustrations 


Academy  of  Sciences  Building  . 

Page 

i 7 1 

Chinese  Father  and  Baby 

Page 

I40 

Admission  Day  Celebration  . 

16 

Chinese  Reading  Bulletins  . 

, 

1 86 

Affiliated  Colleges  . 

176 

Chronicle  Building 

192 

Alamedans  at  Play 

203 

City  Hall  and  Sand  Lots  . 

. 

28 

Alcatraz  Island 

91 

City  Hall,  New  . 

51 

Art  Gallery,  Piedmont  . 

175 

City  of  Tents 

. 

H 

Claremont  Hotel 

. 

20c 

Bank  of  California  . 

1 28 

Cliff  House  (former)  . 

Facing 

26 

Bank  Buildings  at  Market  and 

Cliff  House  (present)  . 

78 

Post  Streets  . . Facing 

128 

Clipper  Ship  . 

17 

Beams  in  Roof  of  Mission  Church 

io5 

Cobweb  Museum 

Facing 

44 

BellaUnion,  Verandah, El  Dorado 

2 1 

Columbia  Theater 

*57 

Boalt  Law  School,  U.  C.  Campus 

199 

Commercial  Building 

37 

Bohemian  Club  . 

161 

Commissioner’s  Lodge  . 

75 

Bohemian  Club  Grove 

160 

Conservatory  . 

65 

Bread  Line 

3 2 

Coppa’s  Restaurant,  decoration 

1 46 

Buffalo  ..... 

67 

Custom  House  (first) 

5 

Custom  House  (present) 

1 26 

Cable  Car  (first) 

56 

Cypress  Lawn  Cemetery  . 

. 

1 19 

California  Hall,  U.  C.  Campus  . 
California  Street  and  Fairmont 

199 

Docks 

54 

Hotel  .... 

142 

Donahue  Fountain  . 

181 

California  Theater,  Old  . 

156 

Call-  Chronicle- Examiner  Issue 

194 

Emperor  Norton  . 

29 

Calvary  Presbyterian  Church 

1 10 

Emporium  Building 

37 

> 57 

Cemetery  of  Old  Mission 

1 20 

Euphemia  . 

40 

Chain  of  Lakes  . . Facing 

68 

Children’s  Playground 

62 

Fairmont  Hotel 

H5 

Chinatown  at  Night 

137 

First  Restaurant  After  Fire 

. 

148 

Chinatown  Bazaars  . 

138 

Ferries,  Looking  North 

1 22 

Chinatown  Street  Scene  . Facing 

140 

Ferry  Building 

Facing 

1 22 

Chinatown  Street  Scene 

H1 

Father  Serra  Monument 

Facing 

104 

Chinese  Children 

1 39 

Ferry  Building  and  Water 

Front 

52 

M 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Ferry  Building,  From  Embarc- 

Page 

adero  .... 

53 

Fire  of  April,  1 906  . 

30 

First  School  House 

7 

Fisherman’s  Wharf . 

55 

Flower  Vendors  . 

185 

Fort  Gunnybags 

19 

Fort  Mason 

94 

Fort  Scott  . . . 

93 

Fourth  of  July  Celebration 

6 

Francis  Scott  Key  Monument  . 
Funeral  of  James  King  of  Wil- 

7i 

liam 

190 

German  Hospital 

178 

Gjoa,  The 

73 

Golden  Era  Office  . 

1 83 

Golden  Gate,  The 

iii 

Golden  Gate  and  Lighthouse,The 

V 

Golden  Gate  and  Marin  Hills  . 

38 

Golden  Gate,  Sunset  . 

39 

Grace  Pro-Cathedral 

JI3 

Grant  Avenue  at  Market  Street 

127 

Greek  Theatre,  U.  C.  Campus  . 

204 

Gump’s  (S.  &G.)  Store 

132 

Hall  of  Justice 

123 

Hearst  Building  . 

191 

Hindoo  Temple 

1 1 8 

Hopkins  Art  Institute  . 

J74 

Japanese  Tea  Garden  . Facing 

62 

Japanese  Tea  Garden  . 

63 

Jefferson  Square  . . Facing 

Jefferson  Square  and  Lutheran 

86 

Church  .... 

107 

Jenny  Lind  Theater 

155 

Jewish  Cemetery 

1 21 

Joaquin  Miller’s  House 

184 

Lake  Alvord  .... 

76 

Lake  Merced 

4 

Lake  Merritt,  Oakland 

200 

Land’s  End 

60 

Laurel  Room  of  Fairmont 

152 

Page 

Lick  House  . . . 25 

Lick  Statuary  , . . *87 

Live  Oaks,  U.  C.  Campus  . 208 

Lone  Mountain  . . .180 

Long  Wharf  . . . 33 

Lotta’s  Fountain  . . .182 

Luna’s  Restaurant  . . 151 

Map  of  Bay  Region  and  Penin- 
sula . . . . 213 

Map  of  San  Francisco  . 214,215 
Market  and  Post  Streets  . 187 

Market  Street,  1865  . . 50 

Market  Street  . . . 58 

Marshall  Square  . . *87 

Marsh  (George  T.)  Store  . 134 


Mechanics’-Mercantile  Library  . 167 


Mechanics’  Pavilion  (first)  . 169 

Meiggs’  Wharf  . . .42 

Meiji,  The  . . . 135 

Mercantile  Library  . . .168 

Merchants’  Exchange  Building  165 
Mills  College  Campanile  . .202 

Mint,  The  . . .124 

Mission  Cemetery  . . .120 

Mission,  Centennial  . . 27 

Mission  High  School  . . 177 

Mission  in  the  Thirties  . 99 

Mission  in  the  Thirties  . .100 

Mission  in  1 849  . . . 10 1 

Mission  in  1 856  . . .102 

Mission  in  1 865  ...  98 

Mission  in  the  Seventies  . .106 

Mission  and  Brick  Church  . 104 

Mission,  Interior  of  Church  . 103 
Mission  To-day  . . Facing  98 

Montgomery  Street,  Looking 

Down  . . . .188 

Mount  Tamalpais  . . 207 

Museum,  Park  . 1 72,  173,  195 

Newspaper  Square  . 182,  193 

Niantic,  The  . . • 41 

Nob  Hill  Mansion  . . 23 

Nob  Hill  Mansions  . . 174 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

Oakland  Home  . . .201 

Occidental  Hotel  . . .22 

Ocean  Beach  . v,  ix,  74,  197 
Old  Flume  . . . . 20 

Old  Map  of  San  Francisco  Facing  20 
Old  St.  Mary’s  Church  . Facing  1 10 
Old  St.  Mary’s  Church,  After  the 
Fire  . . . . 3 2 

Olympic  Club  Building  161,  162 
Olympic  Club  at  the  Beach  . 79 

Orpheum  Theater  . . 158 


Residence  of  Mark  Hopkins  . 174 

Residence  Park  . . .198 

Roofs  of  Chinatown  . Facing  116 
Ruins  After  Fire  . . .33 

Russ’  Garden  . . .18 

Russian  Hill  ...  46 

Russian  Hill  and  Bay  . .166 


Safety  Station 


• 57,58 


San  Carlos  Entering  Bay  . Frontispiece 


Pacific  Building 
Pacific-Union  Club 


37 

59 


Sand  Dunes 

San  Francisco,  I 846 

San  Francisco,  1849 


Facing  3 8 
Facing  1 4 

3 

. 1 2 


Palace  Hotel  (former) 

24 

San  Francisco  Bay  Facing  56, 

*74 

Palace  Hotel,  Palm  Court  Facing 

146 

San  Francisco  From  Bay  . 

Facing 

1 34 

Palace  Hotel  (present) 

H3 

San  Francisco  Seals 

. 

15 

Palace  Hotel  Site  in  1856 

49 

St.  Francis  Church 

1 15 

Parker  House,  1 849 

St.  Francis  Hotel 

H4 

Paul  Elder  & Company’s  Present 

St.  Francis  Hotel,  Tapestry 

Store  .... 

136 

Room 

Facing 

160 

Paul  Elder  & Company’s  Tem- 

St. Mary’s  Cathedral  . 

. 

1 16 

porary  Store  . 

36 

Scottish  Rite  Temple 

163 

Phelan  Building 

130 

Second-Street  Cut 

47 

Piedmont  Art  Gallery  . 

1 7 5 

Sight-Seeing  Car 

59 

Piedmont  Park 

206 

Sky-Line  of  Tall  Buildings 

129 

Pig’n’  Whistle  . 

150 

Southern  Pacific  Hospital  . 

179 

Pioneer  Park 

81 

South  Park  in  the  Fifties 

89 

Point  Bonita 

1 3 1 

Spreckels  Building  . 

189 

Portico— A.  N. To wne’s  House  Facing  50 

Spreckels  Lake 

70 

Portico— A . N . T 0 wne’s  House,  in 

Stadium 

61 

the  Park  .... 

69 

Stanford  University  Quadrangle 

209 

Portola-Louvre  Restaurant 

H9 

Stevenson  Monument 

Facing 

188 

Portsmouth  Square  After  Fire 

84 

Stow  Lake 

68 

Portsmouth  Square  in  1852  . 

8 

Street  Kitchens 

3 1 

Portsmouth  Square  in  1854  82 

> 83 

Sutro  Baths 

80 

Portsmouth  Square  (present)  . 

83 

Sutro  Gardens 

26 

Postoffice  .... 

1 25 

Sutro  Heights 

77 

Prayer  Book  Cross  . Facing 

74 

Sutter’s  Mill  Race  . 

10 

Presidio,  The  . 92,  95,  Facing  92 

Swedenborgian  Church 

109 

Presidio  Terrace 

198 

Synagogue  Emanu-El 

108 

Synagogue  Sherith  Israel 

"7 

Refugee  Tents 

88 

Residence  of  Charles  Crocker 

23 

Tait-Zinkand  Restaurant  . 

147 

Residence  of  J.  D.  Spreckels  . 

196 

Tea  Garden  (Japanese)  63,  Facing  62 

ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

Tea  Garden,  City  of  Paris  . 34 

Telegraph  Hill  . . 45,  8 1 

Telegraph  Hill  From  the  North  90 
Telegraph  Hill  Signal  Station  . 44 

Temple  of  Music  . . 64 

Tennis  Courts  . . . 72 

The  Plan  of  the  Panama-Pacific 

International  Exposition  . 216 

Tree  Ferns  ...  66 

Trinity  Episcopal  Church  . 114 

Union  Square,  1885  . . 85 

Union  Square  (present)  . .86 

Unitarian  Church  (former)  . 1 1 1 

Unitarian  Church  (present)  . 1 1 2 


Page 

University  Club  . . 164 

University  of  California  Library  170 

Van  Ness  Avenue  . . 35 

Vickery,  Atkins  & Torrey  . 133 


Washerwoman’s  Lagoon 
Willows,  The 
Windmill 

Woodward’s  Gardens 


: 153 
Facing  8 O 

• 1 54 


Yerba  Buena  Cove,  1837  Facing  8 
Yerba  Buena  Cove,  1847  . 9 

Yerba  Buena,  Winter  of  1849-50  1 1 

Yerba  Buena  Island,  Lighthouse  96 
Yerba  Buena  Island,  Naval  School  97 


Looking  Down  the  Ocean  Boulevard. 


Introduction 

Many  San  Franciscans , like  residents  of  other  cities , are 
so  absorbed  in  their  own  daily  life  that  they  see  and 
know  only  the  streets  and  buildings  between  their  offices 
and  homes . To  the  residents  of  the  Sunset  Bistrill , the 
Latin  quarter  may  be  an  unknown  region ; to  those  who 
live  in  the  Mission , Telegraph  Hill  may  be  simply  a rise  of  ground 
seen  down  the  vista  of  Kearny  street ; to  those  who  daily  see  that 
incomparable  panorama  of  the  Bay  and  the  Marin  County  hills  from 
their  homes  on  Pacific  Heights , the  old  Mission  church  may  be  only  a 
heap  of  ruins , and  situated  down  the  peninsula , 

In  greater  numbers  each  year  come  visitors  from  the  East , Souths 
North  and  abroad , Stopping  for  a short  time  at  a hotel , they  leave 
for  their  homes  with  memories  mainly  of  Market  street  and  the  Ferry 
building , There  is  a world  to  see  besides , but  no  one  tells  them  where 
and  how  to  find  places  of  interest,  San  Francisco  guide  books  have 
been  print ed,  mainly  catalogues  and  tabulations.  This  remarkable  city 
merits  something  more  comprehensive ; and  in  the  wish  to  present  an 
outline  of  a story  of  absorbing  interest , to  record  some  things  already 
almost  forgotten  and  to  suggest  places  of  interest  to  the  visitor , this 
book  is  offered.  It  does  not  pretend  to  be  exhaustive , and  touches  upon 
only  the  most  prominent  of  the  city  s char  all  eristics, 

San  Francisco , as  it  was , reproduced  visually  its  peculiar  history. 
It  had  an  individuality  as  pronounced  as  Boston  or  Philadelphia , and 
more  vivid  than  New  Fork.  Therefore , its  history  is  given  in  briefs 
for  one  cannot  understand  the  city  without  knowing  its  unmatched 
story ; and , in  addition , bits  of  history  and  biography  have  been  intro- 
duced wherever  they  seem  illuminative  and  naturally  to  belong.  For 
the  historic  part,  Theodore  HittelT  s monumental  history  of  Calif  or- 

[ix] 


IntroduSUon 

nia , John  F,  Hitt  ell' s excellent  history  of  San  Francisco , and  Soule' s 
Annals  of  San  Francisco  have  been  searched , and  these  have  been 
supplemented  by  many  diaries  and  memories  of  the  men  of  early  days , 
Neither  can  one  appreciate  the  city,  as  it  is , without  realizing 
the  significance  of  the  epochal  April  18 , 1906,  It  may  seem  that  too 
many  references  are  made  to  the  great  fire  and  earthquake.  Let  us 
not  forget  that  in  the  vast  district  covered  by  the  fire , every  place- 
wit  hout  any  exception— has  been  new-born  since  that  time ; and  there- 
fore, in  speaking  of  any  place  of  interest , reference  must  inevitably  be 
made  to  that  tremendous  catastrophe,  Fo-day , the  “ down-town " dis- 
trict is  a congeries  of  magnificent  buildings  and  stores ; but  the  sky  line 
is  ragged , and  the  presence  of  large , unbuilt  spaces  can  be  explained 
only  by  the  fire , recent  from  a standpoint  of  city  building.  Hence , the 
city  as  it  is,  stands  as  a wonderful  monument  to  men  s dauntless  cour- 
age, energy  and  achievement,  Fhe  record  of  the  past  six  years  is  the 
prophecy  of  the  future. 

To  San  Franciscans  who  love  their  city,  and  they  are  legion,  this 
book  is  sincerely  dedicated, 

Berkeley,  California , August , 1912, 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

AS  IT  WAS  • AS  IT  IS  • AND  HOW 
TO  SEE  IT 


San  Francisco  and  Cove  in  1849. 

Chapter  One  . From  Early  Days 

The  name  San  Francisco  was  applied  to  a bay  on  the 
western  coast  of  America  long  years  before  the  dis- 
covery of  what  we  now  know  as  San  Francisco  bay, 
or  the  establishment  of  any  settlement  upon  its  shores. 
What  bay  first  bore  the  name  is  not  certainly  known, 
and  even  the  origin  of  the  name  is  veiled  in  obscurity.  The  city 
was  named  from  the  bay,  it  being  assumed  that  the  latter  was  the 
namesake  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi,  but  it  is  possible  that  the  Span- 
iards,who  knew  of  the  existence  of  a bay  near  latitude  thirty-eight 
degrees  soon  after  the  voyage  of  Sir  F rancis  Drake  in  1 5 79,  gained 
their  knowledge  from  the  Chronicle  of  his  voyage,  and  applied 
his  name-Sir  Francis  changed  to  St.  Francis-to  the  bay.  This 
is  a surmise  of  John  Hittell  in  his  History  of  San  Francisco . Theo- 
dore Hittell,in  his  History  of  Calif 'ornia,  say  s that  the  first  mention 
of  the  name  was  in  connection  with  the  loss  of  the  ship  San  Au- 
gustin in  1595.  In  1734,  Cabrera  Bueno,  a Philippine  pilot,  pub- 
lished in  Manila  a book  on  navigation,  in  which  he  speaks  of  this 
bay  of  San  Francisco  on  the  Californian  coast  as  if  it  were  well 
known;  but  from  his  description,  it  is  quite  evident  that  it  is  only 
the  outer  bay  that  was  known,  with  Point  Reyes  as  the  northern 
boundary.  When  Father  Junipero  Serra,  the  Franciscan  friar, 
set  out  from  La  Paz  to  establish  missions  in  Alta  California,  Gal- 
vez, the  Visitador  General, in  his  instructions  respecting  the  names 
these  missions  were  to  bear,  did  not  include  St.  Francis.  Father 
Serra,  grieved  at  the  omission  of  the  founder  of  his  Order,  pro- 
tested: “Is  not  our  own  dear  Father  St.  Francis  to  have  a mis- 
sion assigned  to  him?”  Galvez  replied,  “Let  him  show  us  his 
port  and  he  shall  have  one  there.”  A land  expedition  set  out  in 

[3] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

1769  from  San  Diego,  where 
the  first  of  the  Upper  Cali- 
fornia missions  was  estab- 
lished, to  seek  the  bay  of 
Monterey,  which  was  known 
as  a favorable  harbor,  and  to 
establish  the  second  mission 
there.  When  the  company 
passed  by  the  bay  of  Monte- 
rey without  recognizingit  and 
pushing  northward,  discovered  the  land-locked  bay  which  now 
bears  the  name  of  San  Francisco,  they  were  in  all  probability  the 
first  white  men  to  look  upon  its  waters.  On  the  return  of  the 
expedition  to  San  Diego  the  important  discovery  was  reported 
to  Serra.  He  recalled  his  former  conversation  with  Galvez,  and 
believed  that  St.  Francis  had  interposed  to  lead  the  little  band 
to  the  port  where  he  would  have  his  mission. 

If,  as  is  barely  possible,  the  outer  bay  was  named  in  honor 
of  Sir  Francis  Drake, there  is  no  doubt  that  it  was  the  name  of 
the  Saint  of  Assisi  which  was  bestowed  upon  the  inner  one.  When 
the  news  of  the  discovery  reached  Galvez,  he,  too,  believed  that 
the  expedition  had  been  led  by  the  Saint  to  this  spot;  but  it  was 
not  until  six  years  later  that  the  Mission  was  established.  In  1772 
a land  expedition  explored  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay.  Later, 
in  1774,  another  came  up  the  western  side,  passing  Lake  Merced 
(named  by  a later  expedition  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Merced, 
Our  Lady  of  Mercy)  and  arrived  at  Point  Lobos  December  4, 
where  they  eredted  a cross  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  Contin- 
uous and  heavy  rains  drove  them  back  to  Monterey. 

In  1775  Juan  de  Ayala,  as  commander  of  the  San  Carlos, 
was  sent  to  make  a survey  of  the  bay.  He  took  with  him  a 
launch,  which,  on  reaching  the  entrance,  he  sent  in  to  explore 
the  straits,  now  known  as  the  Golden  Gate.  Finding  that  it  pro- 
ceeded without  difficulty  he  followed,  August  5,  1775,  in  the  San 
Carlos,  the  first  ship  to  enter  what  is  now  known  as  San  Francisco 
bay.  He  sailed  around  the  inner  shores  and  obtained  wood  and 
water  for  the  ship  from  an  island  which  he  named  Nuestra  Senora 
de  los  Angeles,  shortened  now  to  Angel  Island. 


[4] 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

In  March,  177 6,  another  expedition  selected  the  sites  for 
the  Presidio  apd  Mission,  and  in  September  and  October  of  that 
year  both  were  established. 

San  Francisco  had  a third  beginning,  the  later  settlement  of 
Yerba  Buena  which  finally,  in  its  expansion,  embraced  the  other 
two.  Like  the  others,  it  was  of  Spanish  birth,  but  it  was  soon 
adopted  by  American  traders  and  in  a decade  was  in  reality  an 
American  town. 

For  many  years  the  Spanish  settlers  lived  at  the  Presidio. 
Later,  some  of  them  made  homes  at  the  Mission,  though  at  first 
only  the  friars  and  their  Indian  converts  were  there.  From  the 
early  part  of  the  nineteenth  century  the  bay  was  visited  occasion- 
ally by  foreign  ships,  and  from  1820  on,  there  was  considerable 
traffic  in  hides  with  the  missions  and  great  ranches,  ships  from 
the  New  England  coast  being  frequent  visitors.  It  was  found 
that  the  best  anchorage  was  in  a small  cove  called  Yerba  Buena, 
from  the  mint-like  vine  or  “good  herb”  which  grew  abundantly 
around  the  shores.  This  cove  lay  between  what  was  known  as 
Clark’s  Point,  near  the  present  corner  of  Broadway  and  Battery 
streets,  and  Rincon  Point  to  the  south,  curving  in  to  Montgom- 
ery street  between  Washington  and  Jackson  streets.  As  customs 
duties  were  collected  on  goods  brought  into  California,  it  seemed 
advisable  that  the  public  officials  should  be  near  the  anchorage 
instead  of  several  miles  away,  at  the  Presidio  or  theMission.  So  in 
May, 1 835,  Figueroa,  then  Governor  of  California  under  Mexico, 
planned  a settlement  on  the  cove.  He  appointed  as  Harbor  Mas- 
ter, or  Captain  of  the  Port,  William  A.  Richardson,  a naturalized 
Englishman  who  had  lived  on  the  Sausalito  ranch  since  1822. 
Richardson  at  once  ereCted  a shelter  for  his  family  near  the 
middle  of  what  is  now  Dupont  street,  between  Clay  and  Wash- 
ington streets.  It  was  little 
more  than  a tent,  consisting 
’s  canvas  on  redwood 
posts.  Richardson  went  into 
the  business  of  collecting  the 
hides  and  tallow  from  the  mis- 
sions and  ranches.  In  1836 
Jacob  P.  Leese,  having  asso- 

[5] 


First  Custom  House.  An  Adobe  Building  in  the  Plaza. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

dated  with  himself  Nathan 
Spear  and  William  Hinckley, 
two  merchants  of  Monterey, 
came  to  the  cove  to  establish 
a general  store.  He  brought 
with  him  lumber  for  a house 
and,  being  granted  a hundred 
vara  lot  adjoining  Richard- 
son on  the  south,  hastened 

Leese’s  House  and  First  Fourth  of  July  Celebration.  the  building  of  his  home;  the 

first  genuine  frame  structure  of  the  future  city.  It  was  finished 
the  morning  of  July  4 and  Independence  Day  was  celebrated  by 
a house-warming.  Three  vessels  in  the  harbor  (two  American 
and  one  Mexican)  contributed  bunting  for  decoration,  and  the 
Mexican  and  American  flags  floated  amicably  above  the  new 
home.  Guests,  sixty  in  number,  came  from  the  Presidio,  the 
Mission,  from  Sonoma  and  from  all  the  ranches  around.  Feast- 
ing, toasts,  music,  dancing  and  other  amusements  filled  two  days 
and  the  intervening  night. 

Although  Figueroa  died  before  his  project  of  a settlement 
could  be  carried  out,  he  is  entitled  to  be  called  the  founder  of 
Yerba  Buena.  Shortly  after  Figueroa’s  death  Francisco  de  Haro, 
Alcalde  of  the  Presidio  of  San  Francisco,  caused  a street  to  be 
laid  out  called  La  Calle  de  la  Fundacion , or  Foundation  street. 
It  ran  from  a point  near  the  present  corner  of  Kearny  and  Pine 
streets  northwest  toward  North  Beach.  The  district  bounded 
by  California,  Pacific,  Montgomery  and  Dupont  streets  was  a 
grassy  slope  toward  the  cove;  on  the  south  and  west  were  steep, 
sandy  hills  covered  with  bushes  and  scrub  oak.  No  wagon  had 
ever  visited  the  cove  and  there  were  only  horse  trails  through 
the  thickets. 

The  first  survey  was  made  in  1839  by  Jean  Vioget,  lots 
previously  having  been  granted  at  random,  though  they  were 
afterward  made  to  conform  with  Vioget’s  map,  which  included 
only  the  land  bounded  now  by  Montgomery,  Powell,  California 
and  Broadway  streets.  No  name  was  given  to  any  street,  and  the 
two  main  streets  were  Kearny  from  Sacramento  to  Pacific  and 
Dupont  from  Clay  to  Pacific. 


[6] 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

In  1838  a wagon  road  was  opened  to  the  Mission  by  cut- 
ting out  the  bushes  and  scrub  oaks  in  a line  eight  feet  wide;  but, 
as  there  were  no  vehicles  except  the  Mexican  carretas  (ox-carts 
with  solid  wheels  cut  from  logs),  the  main  benefit  was  to  enable 
horsemen  to  pass  with  greater  ease.  In  1840  there  were  four 
Americans,  four  Englishmen  and  six  other  Europeans  at  Yerba 
Buena;  in  1841  about  thirty-one  families.  This  year  the  Rus- 
sian establishment  at  Fort  Ross  was  purchased  by  General  Sut- 
ter, and  the  Russian  Fur  Company  left  the  country.  At  the  same 
time  the  Hudson’s  Bay  Company,  having  undertaken  to  supply 
Sitka  with  produ&s  from  California,  established  a permanent 
agency  in  Yerba  Buena,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Ray,  the  son-in-law 
of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  the  Fadlor  of  the  Hudson’s  Bay  Company, 
at  Vancouver,  Washington. 

The  early  Californians  were  fond  of  recreation  and  any  espe- 
cial event  was  an  excuse  for  a celebration.  From  the  time  of  Jacob 
Leese’s  first  Fourth  of  July  festivities,  the  day  was  usually  marked 
by  rejoicing,  all  nationalities  represented  at  the  cove  joining  with 
the  Americans.  In  1840  a celebration  took  place  in  which  Cali- 
fornians, English,  French,  Irish  and  Germans  entered  into  the 
festivities  with  all  the  ardor  of  the  Americans.  During  the  day 
a grand  picnic  was  held  on  Rincon  Hill,  followed  in  the  evening 
by  a ball  at  Captain  Richardson’s  house.  Late  in  the  evening  a 
fine  dinner  was  served  and  dancing  continued  until  daylight.  To 
enable  prominent  families  around  the  bay  to  attend,  boats  were 
sent  to  different  points  a day  or  two  before  to  bring  them  in,  and 
they  were  returned  in  the  same  way  after  the  event.  Wedding 
celebrations  lasted  for  several  days-dancing  every  night  until  far 
into  the  morning  hours,  a few  hours’  sleep,  picnics  and  bull- 
fighting in  the  afternoon.  This  programme  was  sometimes  con- 
tinued for  a week.  Picnics 
were  popular.  In  the  spring 
the  hills  toward  the  ocean 
were  covered  with  wild  straw- 
berries. Parties  were  formed 
for  camping  there  to  enjoy 
the  fruit,  and  the  berries 
were  made  the  occasion  of 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

a great  merienda , sometimes  concluding  with  a ball  on  the  return 
to  the  settlement. 

In  1844  the  business  portion  of  the  settlement  consisted 
of  three  general  stores,  four  groceries,  one  restaurant,  two  saloons, 
three  carpenter  shops  and  one  blacksmith  shop. 

All  navigators  who  entered  the  bay,  from  Ayala  down,  testi- 
fied that  the  harbor  was  unsurpassed  in  size  and  natural  advan- 
tages. Kotzebue,  the  Russian,  who  visited  the  bay  in  1824,  said: 
“This  water,  over  which  scarcely  a solitary  boat  is  seen  to  glide, 
will  refled:  the  flags  of  all  nations;”  and  Dana  prophesied  that  “if 
ever  California  becomes  a prosperous  country,  this  bay  will  be  the 
center  of  its  prosperity.”  In  1845  George  Bancroft,  then  Secre- 
tary of  the  United  States  Navy,  wrote  to  Commodore  Sloat, 
commanding  the  American  squadron  in  the  Pacific:  “If  you  should 
ascertain,  with  certainty,  that  Mexico  has  declared  war  against 
the  United  States,  you  will  at  once  possess  yourself  of  the  port 
of  San  Francisco.”  The  bay  was  recognized  as  a most  important 
point.  But  there  was  not  much  growth  in  the  little  settlement  upon 
its  shores  until  after  July,  1846,  when  California  became  the  ter- 
ritory of  the  United  States,  as  an  outcome  of  the  declaration  of 
war  with  Mexico.  On  the  ninth  of  July,  by  order  of  Commodore 
Sloat,  from  Monterey,  the  American  flag  was  raised  in  the  Plaza 
(afterward  called  Portsmouth  Square)  by  Captain  Montgomery 
of  the  Portsmouth,  then  lying  in  the  harbor,  and  proclamation 
was  made  that  “henceforth  California  will  be  a portion  of  the 
United  States.”  There  had  been  more  or  less  fighting  in  the 
State,  in  the  struggles  among  the  different  Mexican  fadions  and 
in  the  opposition  of  the  Californians  to  the  prospedive  American 
occupation.  It  had  not  disturbed  Yerba  Buena,  but  in  general 
the  Californians  there  and  in  the  vicinity  were  glad  to  have  their 

country  come  under  Ameri- 
can rule,  feeling  that  they 
had  thus  a better  assurance  of 
tranquillity.  Many  leading 
families  were  conneded  by 
marriage  with  Americans  and 
had  long  felt  that  they  were 
separated  from  the  Mexicans. 

[8] 


Portsmouth  Square  in  1852. 


The  Cove  in  1837. 
Leese’s  and  Richardson’s 
Houses  on  the  Hill- 
side. Trading 
Schooner  of  Leese  at  the 


A Dream  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

When  the  ships  came  first  through  the  sunset  Golden 
Gate  of  the  West  to  the  opal  bay. 

Bosomed  deep  in  the  tranquil  olden 

Calm  of  a long-past  age  it  lay; 

Few  were  the  ware's,  of  the  trading  crew, 

The  cares  and  wants  of  the  settlers  few; 

Few  were  the  hopes  stout  hearts  embolden 

To  risk  the  voyage —few  cared  to  stay. 

When  the  ships  come  now  through  the  mist-wreathed  Golden 
Gate  of  the  West  to  the  land-locked  bay. 

Rich  are  the  freights  they  engulf  and  fold  in 

Their  deep,  dark  hulls  as  they  anchor  weigh; 
Fruits  of  earth? s bosom— corn  and  wine , 

Gold  from  the  depths  of  the  sunless  mine. 

Choicest  of  things  that  are  bought  and  sold  in 

The  marts  of  the  nation— these  are  they. 

When  the  ships  shall  come  through  the  fort-flanked  Golden 
Gate  of  the  West  to  the  wharf-lined  bay. 

And  the  great  World1  s Fair  of  the  age  be  holden 
Along  its  shores  in  august  display. 

Then  the  new  City  of  the  Sea 
In  her  high  zenith  crowned  shall  be 
And  the  fame  of  the  Queen  of  the  West  extolled  in 
The  songs  of  the  bards  of  a later  day. 

—Robert  Duncan  Milne. 

Published  in  the  Nineties. 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

One  of  the  first  ac5ts  of  Captain  Montgomery  was  to  appoint 
one  of  the  lieutenants  of  the  Portsmouth,  Washington  A.  Bart- 
lett, as  Alcalde  of  Yerba  Buena,  and  the  little  town  of  two  score 
houses  under  American  rule  soon  outstripped  the  village  of 
Dolores,  which  formerly  held  supremacy. 

Three  weeks  after  the  proclamation  of  Captain  Montgom- 
ery, there  was  a large  accession  to  the  population.  A ship,  the 
Brooklyn,  arrived  from  New  York,  with  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
eight  immigrants,  all  but  a dozen  of  them  Mormons.  Their 
leader  was  Samuel  Brannan,  publisher  of  a Mormon  paper  in 
New  York,  who  became  in  January,  1847,  the  publisher  of  the 
California  Star , San  Francisco’s  first  newspaper.  A few  months 
later  "The  Californian , established  by  Walter  Colton  and  Robert 
Semple  in  Monterey  and  the  first  newspaper  of  California,  was 
removed  to  Yerba  Buena. 

The  Mormons  were  mostly  skilled  mechanics  and  farmers 
and,  Feing  industrious,  soon  filled  a useful  place  in  the  little 
community.  They  did  not  attempt  to  make  converts  and  their 
descendants,  if  not  they  themselves,  in  general  abandoned  their 
peculiar  faith. 

By  the  didtum  of  the  Alcalde,  in  1847  the  name  San  Fran- 
cisco was  substituted  for  Yerba  Buena,  the  objections  to  the  latter 
name  being  that  it  was  difficult  of  spelling  and  pronunciation  and 
did  not  properly  represent  the  great  bay  which  was  well  known 
on  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  of  which  Yerba  Buena  hoped  and 
expected  to  become  the  chief  port. 

Edwin  Bryant  was  the  second  Alcalde.  He  was  succeeded 
by  George  Hyde.  About  this  time  the  boundaries  of  the  town 
were  extended  south  and  west.  A census  taken  in  1847  reports 
the  population  of  San  Francisco,  exclusive  of  officers  and  soldiers, 
as  numbering  four  hundred 
and  fifty-nine.  This  excludes 
also  the  village  of  Dolores, 
which  was  not  then  a part  of 
San  Francisco.  Of  this  pop- 
ulation not  more  than  halt 
were  natives  of  the  United 
States.  There  were  about 

[9] 


Yerba  Buena  Cove  and  Part  of  Settlement  in  1847. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

forty  each  of  Spanish-Califor- 
nians,  Indians  and  Kanakas. 
In  the  seventeen  months 
which  ended  in  August,  1 847, 
one  hundred  and  fifty-seven 
houses  had  been  built;  a quar- 
ter of  them  adobe,  the  rest 
board  shanties. 

Many  lots  having  been 
purchased  and  some  build- 
ings put  up,  stagnation  ensued  for  a time,  and  it  was  agreed  that 
something  must  be  done  to  stimulate  immigration.  Therefore,  a 
special  number  of  the  California  Star , for  circulation  in  the  East, 
was  published  in  March,  1848.  A six-column  article  by  Doctor 
V.  V.  J.  Fourgeaud  set  forth  the  attractions  of  San  Francisco  in 
somewhat  exaggerated  terms  but  giving  considerable  correct  in- 
formation. A courier  with  two  thousand  copies  was  dispatched 
overland  for  Independence,  Mo.,  which  place  it  was  expected  he 
would  reach  in  sixty  days.  From  there  the  papers  were  to  be 
distributed  throughout  the  East.  Another  edition,  containing 
more  information  and  offering  more  attractions  for  immigrants, 
was  to  be  sent  in  the  following  June,  but  it  was  unnecessary. 
Before  that  time  the  rumor  of  gold  (which  had  been  mentioned 
incidentally  in  the  issue  of  March)  had  become  a confirmed  fact, 
the  news  of  which  it  needed  no  special  courier  to  disseminate. 

The  story  of  the  discovery  of  gold  by  James  Marshall,  an 
American  employed  by  Sutter  in  building  a saw-mill,  is  too  well 
known  to  repeat  in  detail.  The  discovery  was  made  in  January, 
1848.  Neither  Marshall  nor  any  of  his  companions  knew  how 
to  make  accurate  tests,  and  it  was  not  until  specimens  were  sent 
to  San  Francisco  and  pronounced  to  be  gold  by  an  old  miner 
there  that  they  were  sure  of  their  good  fortune.  Eight  years  be- 
fore, gold  had  been  found  in  California,  in  Los  Angeles  county, 
by  some  Mexicans  passing  through  from  Sonora.  A good  deal 
from  that  source  found  its  way  into  Los  Angeles.  Henry  Mel- 
ius, trading  along  the  coast,  collected  about  five  thousand  dol- 
lars’ worth,  which  he  transmitted  to  Boston  in  the  Alert.  Later 
he  made  other  remittances,  and  some  found  its  way  to  Yerba 

[i°] 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

Buena.  Probably  in  1840  and  1841  a hundred  thousand  dollars’ 
worth  was  taken  from  those  diggings.  The  padres  knew  of  gold 
in  the  Sacramento  valley  long  before  its  discovery  by  Marshall. 
Indians  from  that  vicinity  sometimes  brought  them  bits  of  the 
shining  metal;  but,  fearful  of  its  effed  upon  the  Indians  if  they 
knew  its  value,  the  padres  cautioned  them  to  secrecy.  They 
made  no  use  themselves  of  the  knowledge,  and  only  revealed  the 
important  fad  once  or  twice  in  conversation. 

Adivities  in  San  Francisco  ceased  as  soon  as  it  was  certainly 
known  that  there  was  gold  in  New  Helvetia,  as  Captain  Sutter’s 
settlement  was  called.  Every  boat  coming  down  brought  more 
gold;  every  returning  boat  took  more  of  the  population,  until 
the  town  was  almost  deserted.  T he  Californian  and  the  Star  sus- 
pended publication  and  editors  and  compositors  rushed  to  the 
mines  with  the  rest.  The  price  of  lots  in  San  Francisco  fell,  but 
business  soon  revived,  for  it  was  realized  that  with  the  great  rush 
to  the  mines  which  was  inevitably  coming  there  would  be  an 
enlarged  demand  for  all  sorts  of  supplies.  In  May  the  miners 
were  all  from  the  vicinity  of  the  bay,  in  June  they  came  from 
further  south;  in  July  from  Los  Angeles,  and  by  fall  they  were 
coming  from  Oregon,  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  from  Mexico  and 
Peru.  The  excitement  spread  to  the  East.  From  Maine  to  Texas 
it  occupied  the  thoughts  of  all.  In  Seeking  the  Golden  Fleece , Dr. 
Stillman  says:  “At  the  close  of  the  month  of  January,  1849, 
ninety  vessels  had  sailed  from  the  various  eastern  ports,  convey- 
ing nearly  eight  thousand  men,  and  seventy  more  ships  were  up 
for  passage.  * * * Editors,  who  in  the  columns  of  their 

papers  had  discouraged  the  movement  and  exhorted  young  men 
to  be  satisfied  with  the  slow  gains  of  home  industry,  sold  out 
and  anticipated  the  quickest  of  us  at  the  gold  mines  by  at  least 
a month.  Ministers  of  the 
gospel  raised  their  voices 
against  the  dangers  of  riches 
and,  like  Cassandra,  prophe- 
sied unutterable  woes  upon 
the  country,  and  started  in 
the  first  ship  as  missionaries 
to  San  Francisco.” 

["] 


Yerba  Buena  Cove.  Winter  of  1849-’ 50. 


San  Francisco  and  Bay  in  1851. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

In  February,  1 849,  the  first 
steamer  came  through  the 
Golden  Gate,  the  first  boat 
of  the  Pacific  Mail  Company. 
War  vessels  lying  in  the  bay 
greeted  the  newcomer  with  a 
display  of  bunting,  salutes, 
music  by  the  band  and  cheers 
by  the  crews.  People  flocked 
to  Telegraph  Hill,  and  there 
was  great  rejoicing  that  San  Francisco  was  conne&ed  by  steam 
with  the  East.  The  steamer  brought  word  that  two  more  boats 
belonging  to  the  same  company  were  on  their  way  around  the 
H orn,  and  that  there  would  be  monthly  communication  with 
the  East  by  way  of  the  Isthmus. 

The  beginning  of  1849  saw  San  Francisco  with  a population 
of  two  thousand.  By  the  end  of  the  year  there  were  at  least  six 
times  as  many.  Though  the  rush  to  the  mines  continued,  there 
were  many  who  recognized  that  fortunes  were  to  be  made  in 
trade  and  professions,  and  stayed  in  San  Francisco  to  reap  their 
dollars  there.  Men  who  had  lived  frugally  on  a few  dollars  a 
month  now  came  from  the  mines  with  hundreds  to  spend,  and 
demanding  the  best.  Men  came  without  outfits,  to  go  to  the 
mines;  doctors  were  needed,  lawyers  were  needed,  ministers  and 
teachers.  They  all  came,  and  the  wants  of  all  must  be  supplied. 
The  prices  of  everything  were  exorbitantly  high.  Washing  (Bay- 
ard Taylor  tells  us  in  El  Dorado ) was  eight  dollars  a dozen,  and 
much  of  it  was  sent  to  China  and  the  Sandwich  Islands,  because 
it  could  be  done  cheaper  than  in  San  Francisco.  One  returning 
vessel  from  Canton  brought  back  two  hundred  and  fifty  dozen, 
and  one  from  the  Sandwich  Islands,  a hundred  and  fifty  dozen. 
Lumber  shipped  from  New  York,  which  had  cost  a thousand  dol- 
lars, brought  fourteen  thousand  in  San  Francisco.  A man  landing 
from  a ship  with  old  New  York  newspapers  in  his  pockets  could 
sell  them  for  a dollar  apiece.  StephenJ. Field  bought  in  NewYork 
a dozen  chamois  skins,  in  which  to  wrap  the  stationery  he  was 
bringing,  for  which  he  paid  a dollar  apiece.  On  his  arrival,  sixteen 
dollars  was  eagerly  paid  for  each.  The  skins  were  to  be  made 

[12] 


■ ■’ 

FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

into  bags  for  holding  gold  dust.  Rents  soared  out  of  sight.  A 
man  looking  for  a law  office  was  shown  a cellar  six  feet  deep  and 
twelve  feet  square  which  he  could  have  for  two  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars  a month.  Cottages,  costing  in  the  East  about  fifteen 
hundred  dollars,  with  partitions  of  cloth  and  paper,  rented  for  a 
hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars  a month.  The  Parker  House, 
which  had  cost  thirty  thousand  dollars  to  build,  rented  for  fifteen 
thousand  a month.  A canvas  tent,  fifteen  by  twenty-five  feet, 
occupied  as  a gambling  den,  paid  forty  thousand  a year  rent. 
Wages  were  in  proportion.  Household  servants  were  paid  from 
one  hundred  to  two  hundred  dollars  a month.  A cartman  of 
Melius,  Howard  & Co.  received  six  thousand  a year.  Other 
workmen  received  from  fifteen  to  twenty  dollars  a day.  It  was 
necessary  to  pay  high  wages  to  keep  the  workmen  from  going 
to  the  mines.  An  old  menu  used  in  1849  ran  as  follows:  “Bean 
soup,  $1;  hash,  low  grade,  75  cents;  hash,  eighteen  carat,  $1;  beef, 
plain,  $ 1 ; beef,  with  one  potato,  $1.15;  baked  beans,  plain,  75 
cents;  baked  beans,  greased,  $1;  two  potatoes,  50  cents;  two 
potatoes,  peeled,  75  cents;  rice  pudding,  75  cents.”  Bishop  Kip, 
in  1853,  paid  $5  for  an  apple  for  his  sick  wife. 

Fortunes  were  made  in  a week.  A citizen  died  insolvent  to 
the  amount  of  $41,000;  by  the  time  his  affairs  could  be  settled, 
real  estate  had  so  advanced  in  value  that,  after  his  debts  were 
paid,  his  heirs  had  an  income  of  $40,000  a year.  Fifteen  per  cent 
a month  was  sometimes  paid  for  money,  and  it  was  not  unduly 
difficult  to  pay  it.  Bayard  Taylor  wrote:  “Never  have  I had  so 
much  difficulty  in  establishing,  satisfactorily  to  my  own  senses, 
the  reality  of  what  I saw  and  heard.  One  knows  not  whether  he 
is  awake  or  in  some  wonderful  dream.” 

Pages  might  be  written  of  these  enchanted  times,  but  there 
was  another  side.  Some  who 
had  sold  their  all  to  get  to 
the  mines  returned  unsuc- 
cessful, keenly  disappointed. 

Some  returned  with  money, 
but  broken  in  health  by  ex- 
posure and  poor  food.  Some 
came  back  only  to  lose  their 

[ 1 3] 


The  Parker  House  on  Kearny  Street,  Opposite 
the  Plaza,  1840. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

golden  wealth  in  gambling  and  other  vices.  Some  of  the  discom- 
forts of  daily  life  can  be  well  imagined  from  Bayard  Taylor’s 
description  of  the  remarkable  scene  presented  by  the  town  in 
1849:  “The  barren  side  of  the  hill  before  us  was  covered  with 
tents  and  canvas  houses,  and  nearly  in  front  a large  two-story 
building  bore  the  sign/Fremont  Family  Hotel.’  As  yet  we  were 
only  in  the  suburbs.  Crossing  the  shoulder  of  the  hill,  the  view 
extended  around  the  curve  of  the  bay,  and  hundreds  of  tents  and 
houses  appeared,  scattered  all  over  the  heights  and  along  the 
shore  for  more  than  a mile.  On  every  side  stood  buildings  of  all 
kinds,  begun  or  half  finished,  and  the  greater  part  mere  canvas 
sheds,  open  in  front  and  covered  with  all  kinds  of  signs  in  all 
languages.  Great  quantities  of  goods  were  piled  in  the  open  air 
for  want  of  a place  to  store  them  in.  The  streets  were  full  of 
people,  hurrying  to  and  fro,  and  of  as  diverse  and  bizarre  a char- 
acter as  the  houses-Yankees  of  every  variety,  native  Californians 
in  sarapes  and  sombreros,  Chilians,  Sonorians,  Kanakas  from 
Hawaii,  Chinese  with  long  pig-tails,  and  Malays  armed  with 
creeses.  We  came  at  last  to  the  Plaza,  now  dignified  by  the  name 
of  Portsmouth  Square.  From  a high  pole  in  front  of  a long  one- 
story  building,  used  as  a Custom  House,  the  American  flag  was 
flying.”  Almost  the  same  view  is  given  by  the  Rev.  William 
Taylor,  a Methodist  missionary, who  came  late  in  1849  and  spent 
seven  years  in  San  Francisco,  doing  good  among  his  fellow  men 
and  lifting  up  his  voice  for  righteousness  wherever  he  could  gather 
an  audience,  in  church  or  street.  He  said:  “When  we  reached 
the  summit  of  the  hill  above  Clark’s  Point,  we  stopped  and  took 
a view  of  the  city  of  tents;  not  a brick  house  in  the  place  and 
but  few  wooden  ones,  and  not  a wharf  or  pier  in  the  harbor.  But 
for  a few  old  adobe  houses,  it  would  have  been  easy  to  imagine  that 

the  whole  city  was  pitched  the 
evening  before  to  accommo- 
date a vast  caravan  for  the 
night.”  Some  months  later 
he  emphasized  the  discom- 
forts by  adding:  “I  have 
often  gone  out  in  the  morn- 
ing following  a stormy  night 

[h] 


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* * The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  is  the  safe , convenient  and  com- 
modious harbor  where  trade  will  be  concentrated.  In  a very  few 
years  numerous  vessels  of  all  nations— men-of-war , merchantmen , 
whalers , the  Chinese  junk , and  the  powerful  steamers— will  find 
here  the  safest  anchorage , the  most  central  situation , and  the  best 
market  of  the  Pacific.  * * Besides , it  appears  that  the  American 
Government  has  resolved  upon  securing  the  right  of  establishing 
a ship  canal  near  the  neck  of  land  which  divides  the  two  Amer- 
icas—and  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  this  grand  and 
beneficent  project  will  be  realized.  The  advantages  which  would 
result  from  it  for  California  are  so  evident  that  we  deem  it 
unnecessary  to  allude  to  them. 

— TVritten  in  March,  1848,  by  Dr.  V.  V.  G.  Fourgcaud,  for  the  Special 
Number  of  the  “ California  Star which  was  circulated  in  the  East. 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

and  found  whole  rows  of  tents  lying  flat  on  the  ground,  and 
scattered  in  every  direction  by  the  merciless  blasts  of  winter.” 

The  hill,  from  what  is  now  Vallejo  street  to  California  above 
Stockton,  was  nearly  covered  with  chaparral.  There  was  no  grad- 
ing, planking  or  paving  in  any  of  the  streets.  The  winter  of 
1 849-50  was  extraordinarily  wet  and  the  ungraded  and  unpaved 
streets  became  Sloughs  of  Despond.  Men  and  horses  were  fre- 
quently mired  and  extricated  with  great  difficulty.  Two  horses 
sank  so  deep  that  they  could  not  be  rescued,  and  three  men, 
probably  intoxicated,  suffocated  over  night  in  the  mud  of  Mont- 
gomery street.  Lumber  and  labor  were  so  costly  that  it  was 
impossible  to  build  sidewalks.  Dirt  and  brush  were  thrown  in 
the  crosswalks,  supplemented  by  kegs  and  barrels.  Finally  the 
goods  of  overstocked  merchants  were  used  to  help  out  the  diffi- 
culty and,  on  Montgomery  street,  between  Clay  and  Jackson, 
a sort  of  walk  was  made  of  bags  of  Chilian  flour,  pressed  down 
nearly  out  of  sight,  extended  by  a row  of  cooking  stoves  and 
boxes  of  tobacco.  In  other  places  barrels  of  spoiled  provisions, 
kegs  of  nails  and  some  of  the  useless  gold-washing  machines, 
which  every  vessel  brought,  were  converted  into  stepping  stones. 

From  December,  1 849,  to  June, 1851,  occurred  six  disastrous 
fires,  each  of  which  nearly  annihilated  the  business  part  of  the 
town.  Millions  of  dollars’  worth  of  property  was  destroyed. 
Only  an  indomitable  spirit  and  almost  superhuman  courage  could 
have  survived  so  many  disasters.  Instead  of  bewailing  their 
losses,  the  day  after  a fire  men  were  pouring  water  on  the  embers, 
wagons  were  hauling  away  the  debris  and  bringing  fresh  materials 
for  the  new  buildings.  Realizing  that  wood  and  canvas  offered 
little  resistance  to  flames,  once  they  had  made  any  headway,  an 
effort  was  made  to  ere6t  more  substantial  buildings  of  brick  and 
and  stone.  Labor  was  so  high 
that  bricks  could  not  be 
made  nor  stone  cut  at  home, 
so  granite,  ready  dressed, 
was  brought  from  China,  and 
bricks  from  Sydney,  London 
andNewYork.  Shortly  after 
these  fires  the  common  coun- 

[-5] 


I 


Early  City  Seal,  and  Seal  of  City  and  County. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

cil  adopted  for  a corporation 
seal  the  design  of  a phoenix 
rising  from  flames  before  the 
Golden  Gate.  When  a new 
seal  was  adopted  by  the  con- 
solidated City  and  County  of 
San  Francisco,  the  phoenix 
was  still  retained  as  a crest 
above  the  shield.  Its  peculiar 
Celebration  of  Admission  Day,  1850.  appropriateness  was  demon- 

strated in  later  years,  when  the  same  spirit  and  courage  of  the 
people  carried  them  through  the  crisis  of  1906  and  rebuilt  the 
city  in  three  and  a half  years. 

In  1850,  September  ninth,  California  was  admitted  to  the 
Union  as  a State.  From  1846  until  the  admission,  California 
had  occupied  an  anomalous  position,  for  during  those  four  years 
it  belonged  to  the  United  States  as  the  fruit  of  conquest,  and  yet, 
curiously,  it  never  had  a territorial  form  of  government.  The 
supreme  power  was  military,  but  the  civil  government,  especially 
in  the  towns,  was  allowed  to  go  on  very  much  as  when  under 
Mexican  rule.  The  delay  in  settling  its  political  status  was  due 
to  political  intrigues  at  Washington. 

The  news  of  the  admission  was  received  on  the  eighteenth 
of  October,  by  the  mail  steamer,  Oregon,  amidst  the  greatest 
rejoicing.  The  ship  entered  the  harbor  with  an  unusual  display 
of  bunting  and  soon  the  good  tidings  flew  from  mouth  to  mouth. 
Business  was  suspended  and  in  a short  time  the  hills  and  house- 
tops were  black  with  people.  When  the  steamer  rounded  Clark's 
Point,  her  masts  covered  with  flags,  a universal  shout  arose  from 
the  people  on  shore  which  was  repeated  again  and  again.  At 
night  the  town  was  illuminated,  bonfires  blazed  on  the  hills  and 
rockets  were  fired  incessantly.  Impromptu  parties  added  to  the 
festivity.  The  twenty-ninth  was  set  apart  as  an  especial  day  of 
rejoicing.  A procession,  of  which  the  Chinese  formed  an  impor- 
tant feature,  marched  through  the  streets.  There  was  an  oration 
at  Portsmouth  Square,  singing  by  a large  choir,  salutes  from  great 
guns,  and  bonfires  and  fireworks  in  the  evening,  which  terminated 
in  a grand  ball,  at  which  five  hundred  gentlemen  and  three  hun- 

[i6l 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

dred  ladies  danced  till  daylight.  Not  long  after,  San  Francisco 
received  a full  city  charter.  John  W.  Geary  was  the  first  mayor. 

As  early  as  1849  a station  was  eredted  on  Telegraph  Hill, 
from  which  to  observe  the  incoming  vessels.  A tall  pole  on  which 
were  movable  arms  was  used  to  signal  the  character  of  the  vessel 
to  the  people  in  the  town  below,  whether  a sailing  vessel  or  a 
side-wheel  steamer  of  the  Pacific  Mail.  Later  a station  was  estab- 
lished on  Point  Lobos,  whence  a vessel  could  be  observed  at  a 
much  farther  distance,  the  news  signaled  to  Telegraph  Hill  and 
from  there  to  the  town.  This  use  of  Telegraph  Hill  gave  it  its 
name.  In  1853  the  eredtion  of  a telegraph  line  to  Point  Lobos, 
connedted  with  the  Merchants’  Exchange, led  to  the  abandonment 
of  the  former  signals  from  there  and  from  Telegraph  Hill.  The 
city  was  also  put  into  telegraphic  communication  with  San  Jose, 
Stockton,  Sacramento  and  Marysville. 

After  the  Panama  Railroad  was  completed,  steamers  arrived 
and  departed  twice  a month.  The  days  before  the  steamers  de- 
parted were  collection  days,  in  order  that  merchants  might  be 
able  to  transmit  the  money  East  for  goods.  The  custom  of 
making  colledtions  twice  a month  persisted  until  the  fire,  and 
merchants  spoke  of  those  days  as  “steamer  days”  long  after 
transmissions  of  money  by  steamer  had  ceased. 

It  was  the  California  trade  which  developed  the  old  clipper 
ships,  which  shortened  the  time  of  sailing  between  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific  by  several  weeks.  The  old  personal  names, The 
Eliza,  The  Euphemia,  were  dropped;  and  names  were  chosen 
emblematic  of  their  speed,  The  Flying  Cloud,  The  White  Squall, 
The  Sea  Witch,  The  Meteor. 

In  1854  the  city  was  lighted  for  the  first  time  with  gas.  The 
price  was  $15  per  thousand, 
to  the  Mission,  one  by  Mis- 
sion street,  the  other  by  Fol- 
som. Near  the  latter  street, 
at  about  the  corner  of  Sixth 
and  Harrison  streets,  was 
Russ’sGarden.  CharlesWar- 
ren  Stoddard  wrote  of  it:  “It 
flourished  in  the  Fifties,  this 

[J7] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

very  German  garden,  the 
pride  and  property  of  Mr. 
Christian  Russ.  It  was  a little 
bit  of  the  Fatherland,  trans- 
ported as  if  by  magic  and  set 
down  among  the  hillocks, 
towards  the  Mission  Dolores. 
Well  I remember  being  taken 
there  at  intervals,  to  find 
little  tables  among  artificial 
bowers,  where  sat  whole  families,  sedate  or  merry.  * * * There 
was  always  something  to  be  seen,  to  be  listened  to,  to  be  done. 
Meals  were  served  at  all  hours,  and  beer  at  all  minutes.  I re- 
member how  scanty  the  foliage  was;  I remember  the  high  wind  that 
blew  in  from  the  sea,  and  the  pavilion  that  was  a wonder-world  of 
never-failing  attradliveness.”  Stoddard  tells  us  too  of  “The  Wil- 
lows, another  sylvan  retreat.  There  were  some  willows,  but  I fear 
they  were  numbered,  and  there  was  an  al  fresco  theatre.  The  place 
had  quite  a Frenchy  atmosphere,  and  was  not  at  all  German  as 
was  Russ’s  Garden.  French  singers  sang  French  songs  upon  the 
stage.”  The  Willows  was  in  a depression  near  Valencia  street, 
between  Seventeenth  and  Nineteenth. 

The  two  Vigilance  Committees,  of  1851  and  1856,  had  an 
important  influence  upon  the  history  of  San  Francisco.  They 
accomplished  ends  which  seemed  hopeless  by  any  other  means. 
Their  success  was  sometimes  made  the  excuse  for  illegal  pro- 
ceedings elsewhere  which  had  less  happy  results.  In  1851  a com- 
mittee of  leading  citizens,  realizing  that  grave  crimes  were  being 
committed  in  their  midst  and  that  judges,  prosecuting  attornevs 
and  police  were  inefficient,  if  not  corrupt  (since  the  criminals  were 
not  brought  to  justice),  banded  themselves  together,  chose  a jury, 
a prosecuting  attorney,  appointed  lawyers  to  defend  the  accused, 
and  tried  several  men  for  different  crimes.  Though  the  adt  itself 
was  illegal,  the  trials  were  carried  on  with  legal  care.  Some  pris- 
oners were  acquitted;  others  were  sentenced  and  executed.  Many 
convidts  who  had  been  deported  to  Australia  from  Great  Britain 
had  landed  here.  By  orders  of  the  Vigilance  Committee,  they 
were  forbidden  to  land  and  many  were  sent  out  of  the  country. 

[,8]  ' 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

No  judicial  proceedings  on  behalf  of  the  State  were  ever  taken 
against  members  of  the  Committee.  After  it  had  done  its  work 
its  meetings  ceased,  though  it  never  formally  disbanded. 

By  1856  corruption  of  city  officials  and  tolerance  of  crime 
had  again  reached  such  a point  that  the  substantial  citizens 
revolted.  Gambling  was  a prominent  feature  of  the  city.  El 
Dorado,  the  Bella  Union,  the  Verandah,  the  Arcade,  the  Casino 
were  a few  of  the  notorious  houses.  A thousand  homicides  had 
been  committed  in  the  city  between  1849  and  1856,  and  there 
had  been  only  seven  executions.  The  ballot  box  was  stuffed,  the 
forgeries  of  Henry  Meiggs,  who  built  Meiggs’  wharf  at  North 
Beach,  went  unpunished  and  he  was  allowed  to  escape  out  of  th*e 
country.  The  courts  failed  to  administer  justice  and  the  opinion 
prevailed  that  the  only  way  to  corredl  all  these  abuses  was  by 
another  extra-legal  organization.  The  murder  of  James  King  of 
William,  the  editor  of  the  Bulletin , by  James  Casey  (whom  he 
had  denounced  as  a ballot-box  stuffer  and  a former  convid:  from 
Sing  Sing,  New  York)  precipitated  matters.  An  organization 
was  effeded  of  three  thousand  men,  who  were  formed  into  com- 
panies and  drilled.  There  was  a general  suspension  of  business. 
Casey  and  Cora  (another  murderer)  were  tried  and  convided  and 
hanged  in  front  of  the  Vigilance  headquarters,  a building  on  Sac- 
ramento street  known  afterwards  as  Fort  Gunnybags,  from  the 
precautionary  measures  the  Committee  thought  best  to  take,  by 
barricading  the  building  with  bags  of  sand.  After  the  execution 
of  Cora  and  Casey  the  Committee  turned  their  attention  to  the 
ballot-box  stuffers,  and  soon  the  professional  criminals  fled  in 
terror  from  the  city.  Meantime  the  militia  was  ordered  by  the 
Governor  to  put  down  the  Committee,  by  force  if  necessary. 
William  T.  Sherman,  then  a banker  in  San  Francisco,  was  se- 
leded  to  command  it.  An 
endeavor  was  made  to  form 
a Law  and  Order  party,  but 
the  Committee  was  supported 
by  public  opinion  and,  being 
divided  among  themselves, 
the  Law  and  Order  party 
accomplished  nothing.  Sher- 

il9] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

man  resigned,  as  he  could  not  procure  arms.  Two  months  after 
the  execution  of  Cora  and  Casey  two  more  hangings  took  place 
by  order  of  the  Vigilance  Committee— Hetherington  and  Bruce, 
both  murderers.  These  four  executions  were  the  only  ones  ordered 
by  the  Committee.  In  each  case  the  prisoner  was  undoubtedly 
guilty  and  regarded  as  such  by  the  community.  Each  was  tried 
deliberately  and  executed  publicly.  Soon  after  these  executions 
the  Committee  disbanded,  having  been  in  session  two  and  a half 
months.  The  city  took  a general  holiday  to  witness  the  disband- 
ing, and  thousands  came  from  the  interior  to  see  those  who  had 
defied  the  law  in  the  interest  of  justice.  Flags  and  flowers  adorned 
the  streets.  The  sidewalks  were  lined  with  ladies  as  the  proces- 
sion of  five  thousand  passed.  It  included  one  hundred  and  fifty 
members  of  the  Committee  of  1851,  artillery  companies,  dragoons, 
forty-nine  physicians  and  surgeons,  Vigilante  police,  hundreds  of 
citizens  on  horseback,  thirty-three  companies  of  the  Vigilante 
infantry,  and  numerous  military  bands. 

After  the  dissolution,  many  citizens  who  had  been  opposed 
to  the  Committee,  fearing  that  such  an  organization  would  lead 
to  riots  and  violence,  expressed  satisfaction  and  surprise  at  the 
good  results.  Others  cherished  bitterness  which  lasted  for  years. 

In  1858  water  was  brought  into  the  city  from  Lobos  creek, 
by  a wooden  flume  running  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek  around 
the  Presidio  and  Fort  Pointand  along  the  bay  shore  to  Telegraph 
Hill.  In  In  the  Footsteps  of  the  Padres , Stoddard  gives  us  a de- 
scription of  the  old  flume  which  his  boyish  footsteps  travelled  on 
their  way  to  the  beach.  This  line  was  the  original  basis  of  the 
Spring  Valley  Water  Works.  Previous  to  the  construction  of  the 
flume  the  city  was  supplied  by  springs,  a few  artesian  wells,  or, 
for  those  at  a distance  from  such  supplies,  by  cart  and  carrier. 

Water-carrying  was  lucrative 
business. 

The  city  was  gradually  en- 
larging its  borders.  In  1858 
an  official  map  was  made 
which  embraced,  it  was  de- 
clared,^“all  the  land  the  city 
was  ever  likely  to  occupy  for 

[ 2°] 


Old  Flume.  Home  of  John  C.  Fremont  at  the  Right. 


icxn 


waS 

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Ot-c  aSBOtj  i-ii’-s  mnazjcni'iDjc 
kit  ®s'aBfH|^ai;2D;L_ic:  E-.ti. 

. 

ra»SHfflKpaLEit|DnnaDai=: 

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wyEaG^Qragaancaac: 


k«ji  ; 'j/tr^MS 

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clakk 


-:n. ^ : ..  L— r 

ZJCDfi~rau?0 

■ IgiyizQDDa  !!□□□□□□ 

, i|sE5oSp[z:Q[jisLDCjOa 


'fiMHiaBBiiiail: 

saiiiiHassiB 


MiiMMiiiai 


When  Larkin  Street 
Was  the  Western  Bound- 
ary. Showing  Outline 
of  Old  Coves  and 
Points. 


Deathless 

Thews  of  the  dauntless  Norman  Knight , blood  of  the  Saxon  thane , 
Eye  of  the  hi.llman , eagle  wise , scanning  the  far-ojf  plain , 

Mind  of  the  gentle  Puritan , stern  in  his  single  thought— 

This  was  the  blood  of  the  Pioneer , this  was  the  Argonaut. 

Out  on  the  hills  of  the  Sunset  Land , out  by  the  Western  gate, 
Builded  a city  to  last  for  aye,  under  the  hand  of  Fate ; 

This  was  the  Temple  of  Destiny,  out  of  the  Future  brought ; 

This  was  the  lasting  monument  raised  by  the  Argonaut . 


* * * 


— Lowell  Otus  Reese 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

any  purpose  whatever.”  The  north  and  east  boundaries  were  the 
shores  of  the  bay.  The  southern  limit  was  Eighteenth  street, 
and  the  western,  Larkin  street!  When  the  fire  of  1906  was  over, 
all  that  remained  of  the  city  lay  almost  exactly  outside  those 
boundaries  made  forty-eight  years  before!  In  1858,  discovery  of 
gold  on  the  Fraser  river  started  a rush  for  the  new  fields,  and  it 
was  feared  at  one  time  that  the  city  would  be  almost  depopu- 
lated. Real  estate  lost  half  its  value,  but  it  was  only  a temporary 
depression  in  the  fortunes  of  the  city.  There  were  individual 
losses,  but  the  disappointed  miners  flocked  back  to  “God’s  coun- 
try,” declaring  they  would  never  leave  it  again.  Soon  real  estate 
recovered  from  its  momentary  decline;  and  in  1859,  the  Hayes 
Tra6t,  west  of  Larkin  street  and  south  of  Turk,  was  put  upon 
the  market,  so  soon  after  it  had  been  declared  that  Larkin  street 
must  remain  the  western  boundary. 

The  city’s  population  grew  more  and  more  cosmopolitan: 
English,  Scotch,  Irish,  German,  French,  Spanish,  Italian,  Greek, 
Turk,  Russian,  Swede,  Syrian,  Persian,  Hindoo,  Malay,  Chinese, 
Japanese,  Pacific  Islander,  Mexican,  Central  and  Southern  Amer- 
ican, and  African  were  found  upon  the  streets,  in  charadteristic 
dress  and  speaking  their  characteristic  tongues.  The  circulating 
medium  was  as  varied  as  the  people  who  handled  it.  There  were 
English  sovereigns,  and  Spanish  doubloons;  there  were  private 
coins— five  and  ten  dollar  pieces  of  Moffat  £s?  Company;  five,  ten 
and  twenty  dollar  pieces  of  Baldwin  £s?  Company;  five  and  ten 
dollar  pieces  of  Dubosq  £s?  Company,  and  five  dollar  pieces  of 
Schultz  Company  and  Dunbar  £5?  Company.  There  were 
stamped  ingots,  varying  in  value  from  forty  to  a hundred  and  fifty 
dollars,  and  fifty  dollar  coins  (large,  odtagonal  discs  a little  thicker 
than  a double-eagle)  which  went  by  the  name  of  slugs.  There 
were  also  round  fifty  dollar 
pieces,  as  well  as  a few  private 
twenty-five  dollar  coins.  In 
silver  there  were  American 
dollars,  Mexican  pesos  and 
reals,  the  French  five-franc 
pieces,  Indian  rupees,  Eng- 
lish shillings  and  sixpences. 

[21] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Anything  about  the  size  of 
an  American  dollar,  as  the 
French  five-franc  piece,  cir- 
culated for  a dollar,  although 
it  might  contain  much  less 
silver;  and  the  same  with 
other  coins.  A rupee  passed 
for  a half  dollar,  an  English 
shilling  for  a quarter,  or  two 
bits.  No  coin  less  than  a bit 
or  real  was  recognized,  but  an  English  sixpence  or  an  American 
dime  passed  for  a bit.  The  latter  was  often  called  a short  bit, 
and  the  rest  of  the  quarter  a long  bit. 

In  i860  the  Pony  Express  was  established,  carrying  letters 
between  St.  Joseph,  Mo.  (the  western  end  of  the  railroad  on  the 
Atlantic  slope),  and  Sacramento,  on  the  Pacific  slope.  By  relays, 
the  trip  was  made  in  about  ten  and  a half  days,  each  horse  trav- 
elling about  twenty-four  miles.  The  mail  was  sent  twice  a week 
each  way.  The  rate  of  postage  being  five  dollars  a half  ounce, 
only  important  letters  were  sent  in  this  way.  The  time  for  let- 
ters between  New  York  and  San  Francisco  was  reduced  to  thirteen 
days;  news  was  brought  down  to  ten,  as  the  rider  received  by 
telegraph  at  St.  Joseph,  before  starting,  the  latest  news  from  the 
East.  These  messengers,  riding  night  and  day  across  the  plains 
through  bands  of  hostile  Indians,  are  among  the  most  heroic 
charaders  of  American  history. 

Previous  to  the  early  Sixties,  the  titles  of  land  south  of  Pine 
street  had  been  in  dispute;  so  the  growth  of  the  city  had  been 
largely  north  of  Pine  on  Stockton,  Powell,  Mason  and  Taylor 
streets.  All  the  hotels  except  the  Oriental  were  north  of  Pine 
street,  and  so  were  the  churches.  When  the  titles  were  settled 
the  growth  of  the  southern  part  was  rapid.  In  earlier  days  omni- 
buses ran  every  half  hour  between  North  Beach  and  South  Park; 
but  about  this  time  horse-cars,  and  steam-cars  on  Market  street 
and  Valencia,  furnished  transportation. 

After  a period  of  financial  depression,  the  rapid  advance  of 
agriculture  in  the  State  and  the  development  of  silver  mines  in 
Nevada  furnished  new  stimulus  to  the  city's  a&ivities.  The  Russ 

[22] 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

House,  the  Lick  House  and  the  Occidental  Hotel  were  built,  in 
addition  to  fourteen  hundred  new  houses  in  the  course  of  the 
year  ending  August,  1 8 6 1 . 

The  Sixties  were  years  of  great  excitement— the  years  of  the 
Civil  War,  the  building  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  and  the 
development  of  the  Comstock  lode  in  Nevada,  which  enriched 
to  an  enormous  degree  a number  of  San  Franciscans  and  made 
and  lost  fortunes  for  others  through  the  speculations  which  were 
stimulated. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  the  fate  of  California  was 
undecided.  Many  Southerners,  ardent  sympathizers  with  the 
cause  of  secession,  were  within  her  borders.  Thomas  Starr  King, 
Senator  Baker  and  others  roused  by  their  eloquence  the  latent 
loyalty  of  the  people  and  the  cause  of  the  Union  triumphed. 
The  same  fervid  voice  of  King  pleaded  for  the  cause  of  the  San- 
itary Commission  with  such  force  that  at  the  first  meeting  $6,600 
was  contributed.  Later,  committees  were  appointed  and  the  work 
systematized,  with  the  result  that  out  of  the  $4,800,000  cash  the 
Sanitary  Commission  received,  California  contributed  nearly 
$1,250,000.  San  Francisco  alone  sent  $360,000  the  first  year 
and  $25,000  a month  thereafter. 

In  January,  1 863,  ground  was  broken  at  Sacramento  for  the 
construction  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad;  Leland  Stanford, 
Collis  P.  Huntington,  Charles  Crocker  and  Mark  Hopkins, 
thereafter  known  as  the  “Big  Four,”  being  associated  in  the  work. 
To  Theodore  D.  Judah,  who  was  employed  as  engineer  for  the 
laying  out  and  construction  of  the  earlier  short  road  from  Sacra- 
mento to  Folsom,  is  due  in  a large  measure  the  construction  of 
this  road.  His  zeal  and  activity  inspired  confidence  in  the  men 
who  undertook  the  enterprise,  and  it  was  he  who  discovered  the 
most  practicable  pass  over 
the  Sierras.  He  died  at  the 
early  age  of  thirty-seven.  In 
May,  1869,  the  last  spike  of 
the  Central  Pacific  Railroad 
was  driven  near  Salt  Lake, 
and  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
became  united  by  steel  rails. 

[23] 


A Former  Nob  Hill  Mansion,  the  Home  of  Charles  Crocker. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

The  mansions  on  Nob 
Hill  were  built  in  the  Seven- 
ties by  millionaires  created 
by  the  Central  Pacific  and 
the  silver  mines  of  Nevada. 
The  hill  acquired  its  present 
name  through  the  universal 
adoption  of  the  slang  term 
given  to  it  after  these  houses 
of  the  “nobs”  were  ereCted. 
There  is  a tradition,  not  very  well  authenticated,  that  in  some 
early  Gazeteer  the  name  “Knob”  was  applied  to  it  and  that  at 
this  time  the  “K”  was  dropped,  leaving  the  more  picturesque 
title.  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  has  been  Nob  Hill  since  the  Seventies. 

During  this  decade  the  Palace  Hotel  was  built;  the  City 
Hall  was  begun;  San  Francisco  had  become  a metropolis. 

William  C.  Ralston  (who  had  contributed  so  much  to  the 
activities  of  the  city  and  the  State)  died,  leaving  the  Bank  of 
California,  of  which  he  was  president,  in  financial  difficulties. 
Ralston  had  been  a promoter  on  a great  scale.  He  entertained 
lavishly  at  his  country  home  at  Belmont,  where  there  were  accom- 
modations for  a hundred  guests.  Shortly  before  his  death,  he 
built  a house  in  the  city  for  similar  entertainment.  The  scale  of 
his  hospitality  was  such  that  it  was  rumored  (though  without 
foundation)  the  bank  allowed  him  $ 150,000  a year  for  this  pur- 
pose. He  was  charitable,  considerate  and  obliging,  and  he  left 
many  warm  friends.  The  bank  was  reorganized  by  the  stock- 
holders in  the  interests  of  protection  to  the  business  of  the  city. 
The  stockholders,  many  of  them  millionaires,  formed  a syndi- 
cate, supplied  the  lost  capital  by  assessment  and  reopened  the 
bank  five  weeks  after  it  closed,  since  when,  as  a financial  institu- 
tion, it  has  ranked  with  the  strongest  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

In  1876  James  Lick  died,  leaving  nearly  all  his  vast  fortune 
to  benefactions  for  the  city  and  State.  The  Lick  Observatory, 
the  Lick  School  of  Mechanical  Arts,  the  Lick  Free  Baths,  the 
Old  Ladies’  Home  and  statuary  in  the  city  and  in  Golden  Gate 
Park  are  some  of  his  gifts.  After  the  payment  of  all  appropria- 
tions and  the  gifts  to  his  relatives,  the  remainder  of  his  fortune 

[24] 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

was  divided  between  the  California  Academy  of  Sciences  and  the 
Society  of  California  Pioneers.  His  name  should  always  be  held 
in  grateful  remembrance.  He  was  one  of  the  curious  characters 
of  which  there  have  been  so  many  in  San  Francisco.  He  was  a 
cabinet-maker  with  scanty  education,  a native  of  Pennsylvania, 
who  emigrated  when  a young  man  to  South  America  where  he 
accumulated  $30,000.  He  came  to  San  Francisco  in  1847  and 
invested  his  savings  in  real  estate.  His  fortune  was  made  almost 
exclusively  by  the  rise  in  land  values;  for  instance,  for  the  lot 
on  which  the  Lick  House  stood  he  gave  $300.  A few  years 
after  he  died  it  was  worth  $750,000.  He  built  a grist  mill  on 
Guadalupe  creek  near  San  Jose,  which  made  excellent  flour,  but 
was  especially  noteworthy  because  its  inside  timbers  were  made  of 
solid  mahogany.  It  was  said  that  before  he  left  his  Pennsylvania 
home  he  was  refused  the  hand  of  a miller's  daughter,  and  that 
he  then  vowed  he  would  build  a mill  of  his  own  some  day  which 
would  open  their  eyes  with  astonishment.  He  planted  an  exten- 
sive orchard  and  garden,  in  which  were  grown  nearly  every  kind 
of  tree,  shrub  or  vegetable  which  could  be  cultivated  in  the  State. 
He  built  a large  and  costly  mansion  near  San  Jose  which  he  never 
occupied.  He  lived  frugally  in  a tiny  house,  not  much  more 
than  a shanty.  Though  without  much  education,  he  had  a great 
veneration  for  science,  and  believed  that  by  promoting  its  culti- 
vation he  could  do  the  greatest  good  to  mankind.  Theodore 
Hittell  pays  him  the  following  tribute:  “Everything  indicated  a 
pure, unselfish,  disinterested,  benevolent,  highly  enlightened  phil- 
anthropy; and  the  more  all  the  circumstances  are  considered,  the 
more  excellent,  sublime  and  worthy  of  admiration  appears  the 
man  who  could  and  did  so  ad.” 

Another  great  benefador  of  San  Francisco  was  Adolph  Sutro. 
He  was  born  in  Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle  in  1 830  and  came  to  this 
city  in  1850.  After  spending 
nearly  a decade  in  business 
in  San  Francisco,  he  went 
to  Virginia  City,  Nevada. 

While  there  he  conceived  the 
idea  of  construding  a great 

25] 


The  Lick  House,  Montgomery  Street  near  Post. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

tunnel  under  the  silver  mines  to  drain  them,  furnish  better  ven- 
tilation and  enable  the  ore  and  debris  to  be  removed  with  greater 
facility.  The  owners  of  the  mines  at  first  fell  in  with  the  scheme, 
but,  finding  that  Sutro  was  not  a man  whom  they  could  control, 
they  opposed  him;  and,  as  many  of  them  were  large  stockholders 
in  the  Bank  of  California,  he  found  he  could  not  raise  money 
there.  Single-handed  and  alone  he  fought  his  way,  secured  legis- 
lation, ledtured  in  Nevada,  the  East  and  Europe  upon  his  proj- 
ect, raised  the  necessary  money  and  personally  pushed  the  work 
to  completion.  The  tunnel  did  all  that  he  claimed;  the  mine 
owners  were  finally  glad  to  pay  him  to  allow  the  water  from  their 
mines  to  drain  through,  it,  that  being  cheaper  for  them  than 
pumping,  and  Sutro  finally  sold  his  stock  at  a good  figure.  He 
returned  to  San  Francisco  and  during  his  lifetime  added  much 
to  the  advantages  of  the  city,  and  many  of  his  works  live  after 
him.  He  bought  the  bare  hills  of  the  San  Miguel  rancho,  which 
he  named  Mount  Parnassus.  He  covered  them  with  trees  that 
have  grown  into  a forest  and  greatly  beautify  the  city.  He  bought 
the  grounds  now  known  as  Sutro  Heights,  made  the  beautiful 
garden  which  he  opened  to  the  public,  and  built  the  great  salt 
water  baths  which  bear  his  name.  He  bought  the  Cliff  House 
property  and  built  the  house  of  that  name  which  was  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1907,  and  he  collected  in  Europe  the  immense  library 
of  books  and  manuscripts  (known  as  the  Sutro  Library)  which 
he  offered  to  the  city  under  certain  conditions  with  which  the 
city  failed  to  comply. 

The  centennial  year  of  the  birth  of  American  independence— 
1876-was  observed  in  San  Francisco  with  especial  emphasis,  the 
rejoicing  of  the  city  being  not  only  on  account  of  the  Nation,  but 
also  because  it  was  the  anniversary  of  her  own  birth.  The  cele- 
bration began  on  the  Saturday 
before  the  Fourth  of  July  by 
patriotic  sermons  in  the  syn- 
agogues, followed  by  others 
of  a similar  character  in  the 
churches  Sunday.  Monday, 
Tuesday  and  Wednesday  at 
the  Presidio  there  were  sham 

[26] 


On  the  Heights. 

While  round  the  rock  where  bask  the  seal 
The  gulls  in  sunny  circles  wheel. 

The  waters  of  the  Golden  Shore 
Lave  her  fair  sands,  and  fret  no  more. 

A charm  is  on  the  sea,  the  bay. 

The  glistening  white  caps  melt  away; 
Between  the  brown  walls  silently 
The  dipping  ships  are  steering  by. 

A shape  unseen,  of  might  unguessed. 

Sits  at  this  gateway  of  the  West; 

Smiling  she  waits  here  by  the  sea. 
Beckoning  our  glories  yet  to  be. 

— John  Vance  Cheney 0 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

battles,  firing  at  a target-boat  by  warships  in  the  bay,  processions, 
illuminations,  orations  and  balls.  The  hundredth  anniversary  of 
the  consecration  of  the  Mission  was  celebrated  on  the  eighth  of 
October  by  a large  procession,  services  in  the  old  church  and 
orations  by  Archbishop  Alemany,  General  Mariano  Vallejo  and 
John  W.  Dwindle. 

The  years  1876  and  1877  were  periods  of  business  depres- 
sion in  San  Francisco,  and  many  of  the  laboring  class  were  thrown 
out  of  work.  The  news  of  the  great  labor  and  railroad  riots  in 
Philadelphia,  Baltimore  and  Pittsburg  fired  the  smouldering 
discontent  which  at  first  was  turned  against  the  Chinese.  One 
laundry  was  burned  and  others  were  wrecked.  Threats  were  made 
to  drive  out  the  Asiatics,  by  fire  if  necessary.  As  the  police  force 
was  insufficient  to  handle  the  mob,  if  aroused,  and  as  there  were 
about  three  hundred  Chinese  laundries  in  a city  composed  largely 
of  wooden  houses,  the  situation  was  grave.  There  was  danger  of 
the  destruction  of  the  whole  city  by  fire.  A public  meeting  of 
citizens  was  called  and  a protective  association  was  formed  under 
the  leadership  of  William  T.  Coleman,  who  had  been  president 
of  the  Vigilantes  in  1856.  On  application  to  the  United  States 
Government,  arms  were  granted  and  several  vessels  were  sent 
from  Mare  Island,  as  threats  had  been  made  against  the  Pacific 
Mail  Steamship  Company,  that  company  being  held  responsible 
by  the  laboring  men  for  bringing  over  the  Chinese.  Arms  were 
distributed  among  the  citizens  and  they  were  formed  into  com- 
panies and  drilled.  Coleman,  not  wishing  to  use  firearms  if  it 
could  be  avoided,  obtained  six  thousand  pick-handles  which  were 
given  out,  to  be  used  as  clubs  if  the  necessity  arose.  The  rioters 
congregated  one  night  near  the  threatened  docks  and  set  fire  to 
lumber  yards  near  by.  Policemen  and  a large  number  of  the  pick- 
handle  brigade  fought  them 
and  there  was  a hard  struggle 
which  lasted  two  hours.  A 
few  were  killed  and  a number 
wounded.  By  midnight  the 
city  was  quiet  and  for  a time 
there  were  no  more  disturb- 
ances. The  war  vessels  went 

[27] 

The  Centennial  of  the  Old  Mission. 


mmm 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

back  to  Mare  Island,  the 
arms  were  returned  to  the 
Government,  and  thanks  for- 
warded to  the  Secretary  of 
War  and  the  Secretary  of  the 
Navy.  But  discontent  con- 
tinued among  the  laboring 
classes.  A man  arose  who 
was  ambitious  to  become  the 
leader,  Dennis  Kearney,  an 
Irish  drayman  who  had  been  recently  naturalized.  He  addressed 
the  workmen  in  halls  and  on  street  corners  and,  finally,  regularly 
every  Sunday  afternoon  in  vacant  sand-lots  before  the  City  Hall. 
The  party  which  he  tried  to  organize,  as  a Trade  and  Labor 
Union,  or  Workingman’s  party,  came  to  be  known  as  the  Sand- 
lot  party  and  Kearney  as  the  sand-lot  agitator.  He  used  the 
most  incendiary  language-at  first  against  the  Chinese,  but  soon 
against  capitalists  in  general,  who  throve,  he  declared,  on  the 
cheap  labor  of  the  Chinese.  He  incited  the  unemployed  to  take 
matters  into  their  own  hands  (use  fire  and  hemp,  if  necessary)  to 
drive  out  the  Chinese,  and  to  make  the  thieves,  as  he  called  the 
capitalists,  give  up  their  plunder.  He  declared  that  he  and  his 
followers  would  march  to  the  City  Hall,  clear  out  the  police 
force  and  hang  the  prosecuting  attorney,  and  he  made  even  direr 
threats  against  any  member  of  the  Workingman’s  party  who 
should  flag  in  interest.  With  three  thousand  men  he  led  a dem- 
onstration against  the  millionaires  of  Nob  Hill.  He  and  other 
leaders  were  arrested  for  inciting  riots.  While  in  jail  they  weak- 
ened and  wrote  to  the  Mayor,  making  promises  of  moderation 
for  the  future.  The  Mayor  did  not  interfere,  but,  when  their  trial 
came  up,  the  ordinance  under  which  they  were  arrested  was  found 
invalid.  Again  they  were  arrested  and  again  discharged.  This 
time  they  made  a great  parade  of  nearly  ten  thousand  people, 
with  banners  and  mottoes.  There  was  more  talk  of  lynching  the 
magnates  and  destroying  property,  of  dropping  dynamite  from 
balloons  into  the  Chinese  quarters.  Kearney,  hearing  that  the 
Legislature  was  likely  to  interfere,  said  in  one  of  his  tirades,' “If 
the  Legislature  oversteps  the  bounds  of  decency,  then  I say, 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

Hemp!  Hemp!  Hemp!”  One  of  his  followers,  a sort  of  evan- 
gelist, fond  of  quoting  Bible  passages,  added, “What  are  we  to  do 
with  these  people,  that  are  starving  our  poor,  and  degrading  our 
wives  aud  daughters  and  sisters?  And  the  Lord  said  unto  Moses, 
‘Take  all  the  heads  of  the  people  and  hang  them  before  the 
Lord/”  The  Grand  Jury  indicted  them  but  again  they  were 
released.  Finally  an  aCt  was  introduced  and  passed  in  Senate  and 
Assembly  which  had  the  effeCt  of  quieting  the  demagogues,  and 
at  the  same  time  the  police  was  increased.  From  the  sand-lot 
movement  arose  the  Workingman's  party,  each  member  of  which 
bound  himself  to  sever  all  connection  with  other  political  parties. 

The  Second  Constitutional  Convention  met  in  Sacramento 
in  1878.  The  Workingman’s  party  formed  one  wing  of  it.  All 
sorts  of  propositions  were  brought  forward,  most  of  them  aimed 
against  the  Chinese  and  those  who  employed  them.  Some 
counselled  moderation;  some  drastic  measures.  Only  one  voice 
in  the  convention,  loud  enough  to  be  heard,  seems  to  have  been 
lifted  in  their  favor-that  of  Charles  V.  Stuart  of  Sonoma  county. 

As  the  years  went  by,  San  Francisco’s  expansion  and  munic- 
ipal problems  became  more  those  of  the  ordinary  city.  Her 
Mission  era,  her  gold  and  her  silver  era  had  passed.  She  made 
history  daily,  but  it  was  not  unusual  history,  though  she  still 
retained  her  charm  of  the  bizarre.  The  Emperor  Norton  walked 
the  streets,  levying  tribute  from  his  loyal  “subjects,”  as  he  needed 
it— a crack-brained  Frenchman  of  courtly  manners,  who  had  once 
been  a man  of  affairs.  He  imagined  himself  the  Emperor  of  the 
World,  was  given  carte-blanche  at  most  of  the  restaurants  and 
theatres,  clothed  by  the  officers  of  the  Presidio  in  the  military 
garb  he  thought  suitable,  and  kept  in  spending  money  by  the 
purchase  of  the  fifty-cent  “bonds”  he  issued  as  seemed  to  him 
needful.  In  what  other  city 
could  he  have  passed  his 
days  so  happily? 

The  surface  was  rippled 
in  1894  by  the  Mid-Winter 
Fair,  held  in  Golden  Gate 
Park,  an  aftermath  of  the 
Chicago  Fair  of  1893,  and 

[29] 

The  Emperor  Norton. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

during  the  Spanish  war  the 
the  soldier  element  was  very 
much  in  evidence.  Immense 
camps  filled  unused  spaces 
and  Market  street  often  re- 
sounded to  the  marching  feet 
of  regiments,  going  to  or  re- 
turning from  the  Philippines. 
Then  life  went  on  as  before 
and  it  seemed  as  if  the  dra- 
matic days  of  the  city  were  over,  but  she  awoke  one  morning  to 
the  greatest  tragedy  of  her  existence. 

In  the  early  dawn  of  April  eighteenth,  1906,  occurred  the 
earthquake  which,  with  its  resultant  fires,  was  the  greatest  disas- 
ter of  modern  times.  The  fires,  uncontrollable  by  reason  of  the 
broken  water  mains,  swept  on  until  over  four  square  miles— two 
thousand  five  hundred  and  ninety-three  acres,  more  than  five 
hundred  city  blocks-were  consumed.  Only  dynamiting  of  the 
eastern  side  of  Van  Ness  avenue  throughout  its  entire  length 
saved  the  rest  of  the  city.  The  story  of  the  appalling  disaster 
has  been  told  so  many  times  in  newspapers  and  magazine  articles, 
and  in  serious  books,  and  so  many  allusions  have  been  made  in 
this  book,  in  connexion  with  different  portions  of  the  city,  that 
only  a few  prominent  and  picturesque  features  will  be  noted  here. 
A characteristic  which  impressed  everyone  was  the  calm  accept- 
ance of  what  had  occurred;  there  was  little  bemoaning  and  no 
hysteria.  During  the  days  of  the  fire  the  tension  was  terrible; 
people  held  their  breath  and  waited.  One  who  went  through  it 
will  never  forget  the  relaxation  and  relief  when,  on  the  third 
night,  soldiers  rode  through  the  streets  of  the  western  part  of 
the  city  announcing  that  the  danger  was  past,  the  fire  under  con- 
trol. To  a large  extent,  certainly  for  the  first  few  weeks,  individual 
losses  were  sunk  in  the  great  totality.  Nobody  complained.  Per- 
haps home  and  means  of  livlihood  were  gone,  but  all  cheerfully 
said,ccWe  are  no  worse  off  than  the  rest,”  and  took  up  the  burden 
of  trying  to  bring  order  out  of  chaos.  Later,  when  the  first  feel- 
ings of  dazed  bewilderment  and  of  dumb  acquiescence  wore  away, 
natural  feelings  must  have  asserted  themselves,  in  rich  and  poor 


The  Uncontrollable , Devouring  Fire. 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

alike.  Household  treasures,  heirlooms,  prized  collections  were 
ashes;  private  libraries,  private  art-galleries,  artists’  studios— no 
one  can  estimate  these  losses.  The  pictures  in  one  private  gal- 
lery were  worth  a quarter  of  a million— a loss  to  those  who  wrought 
the  pictures  as  well  as  to  the  owner,  since  that  much  less  remained 
in  the  world  of  their  work  to  give  lustre  to  their  names.  The 
stamp  collection  lost  by  one  man  was  valued  at  $80,000.  One 
thing  the  people  did  save— their  household  pets.  As  the  endless 
procession  passed  towards  the  Park  and  Presidio— three  days  and 
two  nights  the  steady  tramp  of  feet  was  not  stilled-the  number 
of  canaries,  parrots  and  cats  which  were  carried,  and  of  dogs 
which  followed,  was  remarkable.  It  seemed  as  if  St.  Francis,  in 
the  destruction  of  his  city,  had  put  it  into  their  hearts  to  remem- 
ber his  “little  brothers.” 

“Choose!”  cried  the  Fiend,  and  his  breath 
Withered  the  blossoming  city; 

“I  am  Destruction  and  Death— 

Choose!  Is  it  greed,  now,  or  pity? 

Ye  have  been  given  this  hour. 

Hardly  I wait  on  your  pleasure; 

What  will  ye  save  from  my  power. 

Life  or  your  treasure?” 

Then  with  one  voice  they  replied: 

“All  that  earth  hath  in  its  giving 

Reckon  we  nothing  beside 
Even  the  least  of  the  living.” 

— Charles  K.  Field. 

For  nearly  six  weeks  there  could  be  no  fire  of  any  sort  in 
the  houses.  There  was  no  gas;  chimneys  had  to  be  rebuilt  and 
inspected  before  ranges  could  be  used.  So  everyone  cooked  in 
the  street  before  his  door,  and  the  stoves  varied  from  a piece  of 
sheet-iron,  or  a grate,  on  six 
bricks,  to  the  largest  kitchen 
range.  Those  who  had  used 
only  gas  for  cooking  in  their 
houses  were  obliged  to  im- 
provise stoves  as  best  they 
could.  Japanese  and  Chinese 
servants  usually  stayed  with 

[ 3 1 ] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

the  families  where  they  were  working.  White  servants  usually 
departed  to  join  their  own  families  if  they  were  within  reach.  So 
many  a lady  fried  the  beefsteaks  and  boiled  the  water  for  her 
family  whose  kitchen  had  been  almost  a terra  incognita  to  her. 
Often  her  husband,  his  business  being  wiped  away,  joined  her 
and  they  made  a sort  of  picnic  of  the  enforced  inconveniences, 
congratulating  themselves  that  they  had  something  to  cook. 
Nevertheless,  it  was  no  picnic  to  cook  for  six  weeks  on  the  curb 
in  front  of  the  house,  with  the  kitchen  at  the  back,  half  the  length 
of  the  lot  away.  Most  San  Francisco  houses  have  high  porches, 
but  thankful  might  the  householder  be  who,  if  the  pepper  or 
salt  was  forgotten,  did  not  have  to  travel  one  or  two  long  flights 
of  stairs,  as  did  the  dwellers  in  upper  flats.  The  situation  made 
for  neighborliness  and  kindly  interchange  of  helpful  offices. 

“An*  Mrs.  Van  Bergen  she  greets  me  these  days 
With  a smile  an’  a nod  of  the  head; 

‘Ah,  Mrs.  McGinnis,  how  are  you?’  she  says, 

‘An’  do  you  like  Government  bread?’ 

She  fetches  a bag  made  of  crockydile  skin 
An’  I’ve  got  a sack  when  we  meet. 

But  the  same  kind  of  coffee  an’  crackers  goes  in. 

An’  it’s  all  of  it  cooked  in  the  street. 

Sure  Mrs.  Van  Bergen  is  takin’  it  fine. 

Ye’d  think  she  was  used  to  the  food; 

We’re  gettin’  acquainted  a-standin’  in  line. 

An’  it’s  doin’  the  both  of  us  good.” 

■ — Charles  K.  Field. 

As  the  days  went  by,  shelters  were  built  around  these  kitch- 
ens, to  keep  out  the  wind  and  dust  of  the  street-old  shutters, 
bill  boards,  linoleum,  gunnysacks  stretched  around  stakes,  pack- 
ing boxes— anything  which  could  be  found  in  the  neighborhood 

was  pressed  into  service. 
Then  the  streets  began  to 
look  like  camps-long  rows 
of  these  shelters  on  each  side 
of  the  road. 

One  cheerful  soul  put  up 
a motto,' “Make  the  best  of 
it  and  forget  the  rest  of  it!” 

[32] 


A Bread  Line  on  Eddy  Street. 


Old  St.  Mary’s 
After  the  Fire.  Photo- 
graph by  R.  J.  Waters. 


To  San  Francisco . 

* * Better  than  halls  of  justice  and  pavilions  of  pleasure , bet- 
er  than  churches  and  homes , are  loving  hearts , tried,  by  a common 
sorrow , triumphing  over  a common  disaster.  To-day,  facing  a loss 
which  has  appalled  the  world,  thou  art  the  richest  in  the  federa- 
tion of  cities,  for  thou  hast  tested  the  courage  of  thy  people, 
proved  the  love  and  loyalty  of  thy  children,  made  certain  both  the 
heroism  and  the  kindliness  of  thy  daughters  and  sons.  Hail,  dear 
San  Francisco,  pueblo  of  gray  friars  and  Spanish  dons,  camp  of 
the  argonauts,  metropolis  of  the  new  Pacific— Hail,  City  of  Yes- 
terday and  Tomorrow ! I salute  thee  reborn,  rejuvenated,  casting 
the  slough  that  unworthily  envisaged  thee,  rising  out  of  thy 
burned  self  to  a more  fair,  more  glorious  realization  of  thy  prom- 
ise and  thy  destiny  ! 

— From  dedication  to  11  San  Francisco  Through  Earthquake 
and  Fire,"  by  Charles  Keeler,  igo6. 

I 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

And  soon  most  of  the  little  shacks  bore  a sign— some  humorous, 
some  offering  good  advice— all  speaking  of  cheerfulness  and  hope. 
Some  recalled  past  glories  with  “The  Fairmont,”  and  “The  Zin- 
kand,”  while  near  by  was  seen  “The  Unfairmont,”  and  the  “Tin- 
canned.”  One  was  “The  Wayside  Inn,”  and  close  by  was  “The 
Inside  Out.”  One  wrote,“Out  in  the  cold  world,  out  in  the 
street;”  but  such  self-pity  could  not  be  tolerated,  so  some  one 
added, “But  what’s  the  use  of  kicking,  when  you’ve  got  enough 
to  eat.”  “Do-drop  In”  was  attached  to  one.  There  was  “The 
New  St.  Francis”  and  “The  Palace  Grill”  and  “Little  America,” 
the  latter  a shelter  made  of  American  flags.  “The  House  of 
Mirth”  was  there,  and  “The  House  of  Mystery.”  Some  were 
moved  to  encourage  their  fellow  men  by  dropping  into  rhyme: 

< ‘Don’t  cast  around  that  look  of  gloom. 

Like  you’ve  stepped  out  of  a tomb. 

Hide  your  heartache  if  you’re  sad; 

Make  believe  you’re  feeling  glad. 

Chase  the  mean  look  from  your  eye; 

Things  will  boom  up  bye  and  bye.” 


Others  offered  the  same  advice  in  more  condensed  form, “Look 
pleasant;  it  is  not  expensive,”  “Never  say  die;  let  the  other  fel- 
low do  that.” 

The  humorous  signs  found  their  way  down  town.  On  Fill- 
more street  a push-cart,  furnishing  sandwiches  and  coffee,  called 
your  attention  with  “Meals  a la  cart.”  Further  down  town  the 
ruin  of  a store  bore  the  inscription, “Forced  to  move  on  account 
of  alterations  on  April  18th.”  Another  said,“Pushed  to  the  wall, 
but  coming  through.”  Another  ambitious  one  wrote, “First  to 
shake,  first  to  burn,  first  to  begin,  a living  to  earn.”  Near  the 
top  of  a tall  sky-scraper,  in  which  the  flames  had  done  their  work, 
an  attorney  hung  out  a sign, 

“Moved  because  the  eleva- 
tors are  not  running.” 

Fillmore  street,  a cross- 
town street  in  the  Western 
Addition,  had  a good  many 
small  stores,  which  made  the 
nucleus  of  a new  retail  center. 


Four  Square  Miles  of  Desolation  Like  This. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Before  the  ashes  had  ceased 
falling,  every  available  house 
on  the  street  was  rented.  One 
man  advertised, ccMy  rent  re- 
ceipt for  my  present  location 
is  dated  April  20th,  1906.” 
Such  high  rents  were  offered 
for  the  houses  that  every  for- 
tunate owner  could  afford  to 
move  out  and  live  on  his 
income  elsewhere.  Doctors,  lawyers  and  dentists  opened  offices 
on  the  upper  floors,  the  lower  were  filled  with  shops  of  every 
variety,  and  Fillmore  street  became  for  a time  the  main  retail 
street.  It  soon  bore  the  asped:  of  a country  fair.  All  sorts  of 
booths,  tents  and  hastily  ereded  sheds  filled  the  vacant  lots  and 
street  corners.  Lunch  wagons  and  counters  close  to  the  side- 
walks offered  refreshments,  and  “pop,”  lemonade  and  all  sorts  of 
soft  drinks,  to  allay  the  thirst  of  throats  parched  by  mortar-dust 
and  ashes.  Spielers  at  the  corners  cried  out  their  wares.  It  was 
pandemonium.  All  saloons  were  closed  and  no  liquor  could  be 
had  except  on  the  prescription  of  a physician,  countersigned  by 
General  Greely.  As  a consequence  San  Francisco  was  free  from 
crime  as  it  had  never  been  before.  The  next  phase  of  shopping 
accommodations  was  when  the  larger  firms  opened  in  houses. 
Some  of  the  merchants  and  bankers  used  their  own  homes;  others 
rented  houses,  mostly  on  the  west  side  of  Van  Ness  avenue.  As 
in  the  case  of  Fillmore  street,  the  enormous  rents  paid  would 
amply  compensate  for  any  damage  to  the  homes.  Van  Ness  ave- 
nue was  chosen  because  it  was  further  down  town,  a wide  and 
pleasant  street,  and  on  the  eastern  side  (entirely  vacant  by 
reason  of  the  dynamiting)  temporary  store  buildings  could  soon 
be  erected. 

It  was  a curious  experience  to  enter  a store  by  a marble 
vestibule,  find  yourself  in  a beautiful  great  hall,  with  carved  oak 
staircase  and  stained-glass  windows,  to  have  the  goods  you  desired 
brought  to  you  from  the  pantry  or  sideboard  drawers  or  from 
the  library  shelves,  to  have  them  spread  before  you  on  a beautiful 
great  dining-table,  around  which  not  long  before  wit  and  beauty 

[34] 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 


had  made  merry;  or,  in  another  room,  to  be  served  at  a hastily 
improvised  pine  counter,  while  your  feet  pressed  the  rich  velvet 
carpet  and  your  eyes  rested  upon  the  fine  oil  paintings  which 
had  not  yet  been  taken  from  the  walls.  If  you  wandered  up  the 
stairway  to  look  at  suits  or  coats,  perhaps  you  were  asked  to  step 
into  the  bath-room  to  be  fitted.  It  was  a topsy-turvy  land,  but 
in  a few  months  Van  Ness  avenue  became  a delightful  shopping 
street.  On  the  eastern  side  were  temporary  structures  with  large 
plate-glass  windows,  giving  the  effeCt  of  handsome  stores.  On 
the  western  side,  temporary  fronts  with  large  windows  were  built 
from  the  houses  to  the  sidewalk.  One  store,  occupying  a man- 
sion, built  on  the  terraced  garden  in  the  rear  a pretty  tea  house, 
which  became  a very  popular  place  with  ladies. 

It  was  a sight  to  stir  the  heart  and  warm  the  blood— yes,  to 
bring  a lump  in  the  throat— to  walk  up  Van  Ness  avenue  on  a 
sunny  afternoon.  From  the  pole  which  surmounted  each  build- 
ing waved  one  or  two  flags  and  a pennant,  all  flying  straight  in 
the  afternoon  western  breeze.  The  pennant  bore  the  name  of 
the  store  or  firm,  one  flag  was  the  Stars  and  Stripes  and,  if  there 
were  two,  the  other  marked  the  nationality  of  the  owners;  the 
flags  of  all  nations  mingled  with  our  own.  Flying  gaily  the  whole 
length  of  the  avenue,  they  symbolized  triumph  over  disaster, 
and  proclaimed  to  the  world  the  spirit  which  sent  the  merchants 
back  down  town  to  the  old  locality  three  and  a half  years  after 
the  desolating  fire. 

In  the  light  of  the  splendid  new  buildings  which  now  cover 
what  the  fire  laid  waste,  how  queer  the  croakings  of  the  few  pes- 
simists of  those  times  read.  The  generosity  of  the  world  to  the 
stricken  city,  and  the  kind  words  which  cheered  her  through  her 
well-nigh  impossible  task,  will  never  be  forgotten,  and  we  can 
all  afford  to  laugh  together 
now  over  these  words  of 
discouragement:  “How  any 
thinking  person  can  go  into 
the  ruins  of  the  destroyed 
city  and  mingle  with  the 
people  and  then  buoyantly 
declare  that  San  Francisco 

[35] 


Van  Ness  Avenue  in  Sixty  Days — The  Banners  of  Hope. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

will  rise  like  a Phoenix  from 
her  ashes,  more  beautiful  and 
more  prosperous  than  ever,  is 
notunderstandable.Howany 
man  can  calmly  compute  the 
universal  loss  and  say  that 
within  a few  years  San  Fran- 
cisco will  be  rebuilt,  is  also 
incomprehensible.  Poor  old 
San  Francisco  is  prostrate. 
She  is  dead.  There  is  no  city;  there  is  no  business.  There  are 
only  clusters  of  residences.”  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  writer 
of  that  article  has  walked  the  streets  of  the  new  city,  has  visited 
the  new  stores  and  public  buildings,  has  examined  the  bank 
clearings  and  has  seen  the  plans  of  the  great  Exposition.  An 
Exposition  of  such  magnitude  has  never  been  undertaken,  and, 
as  San  Franciscans  have  proved  that  they  can  do  things,  there  is 
every  reason  to  expeCt  a great  achievement.  Dead?  No!  Nor 
would  she  be  if  she  were  overtaken  again  by  a like  calamity- 
from  which  fate  this,  or  any  other,  city  might  devoutly  pray  to 
be  spared.  The  same  spirit,  which  led  the  pioneer  of  1 8 5 1 to  put 
“Nil  Desperandum”  over  his  door  when  rebuilding  after  the 
fourth  fire,  is  still  alive. 

“Did  they  think  that  the  sons  of  the  men  who  had  won 
With  their  lives  to  the  Golden  Gate 
Were  the  sort  that  would  yelp  like  the  beggars  for  help 
Or  would  sprawl  in  the  ruins  and  wait? 

It  was  then  that  the  crashing  of  hammer  and  steel 
Made  a glorious  music  to  hear. 

For  our  fathers  had  beaten  the  very  same  tune 
With  the  ax  of  the  pioneer.” 

— W.  0.  McGeehan. 

We  have  lost  forever  some  things  of  the  old  days-land- 
marks,  customs  and  expressions,  which  kept  alive  the  early  his- 
tory. The  business  man  no  longer  makes  his  collections  twice  a 
month  and  speaks  of  these  days  as  “steamer  days;”  but  he  still 
prefers  gold  and  silver  coin  to  bank  notes.  We  seldom  hear  now 
of  fifty  vara  and  hundred  vara  lots,  but  we  still  speak  of  “over  in 
the  Mission”  and  “the  Potrero.”  Enough  of  the  early  color  is 

[361 


FROM  EARLY  DAYS 

left  to  tinge  the  commonplace  with  romance;  and  the  city  is 
still,  as  Stevenson  called  it, “the  smelting  pot  of  races.”  More 
than  half  its  newspapers  are  published  in  a foreign  language,  and 
almost  every  denomination  of  churches  holds  services  in  half  a 
dozen  different  tongues.  If,  some  day,  on  Market  street,  one 
hears  the  sound  of  martial  music  and  the  tramp  of  marching  feet, 
and  asks  what  these  bands  and  banners  mean,  he  is  likely  to  be 
told  that  they  are  the  Czechs,  or  perhaps  the  Montenegrins,  mak- 
ing holiday-some  people  of  whom  one  did  not  suppose  the  city 
contained  more  than  a handful;  and  here  are  hundreds  in  line. 
On  Columbus  Day,  thousands  of  Italians  make  a long  and  im- 
pressive procession.  The  Fourteenth  of  July  brings  out  as  many 
Frenchmen  to  celebrate  the  Fall  of  the  Bastile. 

The  climate  makes  for  the  joy  of  living,  though  belied  by 
some  who  notice  only  the  fog  and  windy  afternoons  of  summer. 
But  it  is  the  wind  which  keeps  the  air  clean  and  pure  and  free 
from  disease;  and  every  San  Franciscan  who,  away  from  home, 
experiences  extreme  summer  heat,  longs  for  a whiff  of  the  brac- 
ing fog.  As  we  escape  extreme  heat,  so  do  we  also  extreme  cold. 
The  average  winter  temperature  is  fifty-one  degrees,  and  the 
average  summer  temperature,  fifty-nine  degrees.  There  is  perfect 
freedom  from  thunderstorms,  cyclones,  blizzards  and  sun-strokes, 
and  in  planning  for  outings,  for  nine  months  of  the  year,  no 
account  need  be  taken  of  possible  weather  conditions. 

And  now  at  the  beginning  of  a distind  era  of  the  city’s  life, 
a new  generation  of  men  is  coming  into  public  adivity  and 
prominence— men  of  that  same  indomitable  energy  and  matchless 
courage  which  charaderized  both  the  founders  and  the  builders. 
Without  the  fortitude  and  experience  of  the  older  men,  the  city 
could  not  have  been  rebuilt;  without  the  new  blood  of  this 
vigorous  younger  generation, 
the  amazing  rehabilitation 
would  still  be  in  the  distant 
future.  In  spirit,  the  San 
Francisco  of  the  present  is 
the  true  and  logical  succes- 
sor of  the  San  Francisco  of 
other  days. 

[37] 

Down  Town  in  Three  Years! — Pacific,  Commercial 

and  Emporium  Buildings. 


Across  the  Golden  Gate.  Marin  County  Hills.  Mount  Tamalpais  in  the  Distance. 

Chapter  Two  • Physical  Characteristics 

San  Francisco  occupies  the  extreme  northern  end  of  a pen- 
insula, about  thirty  miles  long  and  averaging  about  fifteen 
miles  in  width.  At  San  Francisco  it  is  seven  miles 
across.  Three  sides  of  the  city  are  lapped  by  water.  The 
ocean  washes  the  western  boundary,  the  Golden  Gate  and 
San  Francisco  bay  the  northern,  and  the  bay  the  eastern.  The 
land  is  mostly  sand  dunes,  with  an  occasional  outcropping  of 
rock.  The  bay— a land-locked  harbor, “where  the  navies  of  the 
world  could  ride”— is  irregular  in  shape,  about  seventy  miles  long 
and  averaging  ten  miles  in  width.  From  San  Francisco  to  the 
Alameda  County  shores  it  is  less  than  five  miles  across.  The 
northern  part  is  called  San  Pablo  bay.  From  this,  Suisun  bay 
opens  to  the  east,  through  the  Straits  of  Carquinez.  Into  Suisun 
bay  flow  the  mingled  waters  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin 
rivers,  which  drain  the  great,  fertile  Sacramento  and  San  Joa- 
quin valleys.  Vallejo  and  Benicia  (where  the  Southern  Pacific 
trains  are  ferried  across  the  Carquinez  straits)  are  between  Suisun 
and  San  Pablo  bays.  Napa,  Sonoma  and  Petaluma  are  a little 
further  north,  all  surrounded  by  beautiful  country,  all  watered 
by  creeks  which  flow  into  the  bay. 

Marin  county,  with  its  pretty  towns  nestled  among  the  hills 
of  the  Coast  range,  lies  between  San  Pablo  bay  and  the  ocean, 
north  of  the  Golden  Gate.  Mount  Tamalpais  is  the  dominating 
peak  of  Marin  county,  the  changeful  beauty  of  whose  hills  adds 
to  the  varied  attractiveness  of  San  Francisco.  From  the  city’s 
northern  slopes  one  can  see  the  shadows  unfold  their  wonderful 
depths  of  color  when  the  hills  are  dry  and  brown,  or  watch  the 
mist  of  green  steal  over  them  day  by  day,  after  the  first  fall  rains. 

[38] 


Co 


O'- 


er^ 

o 


o 


At  Point  Lobos. 

* * * 

Brown  pipers  run  upon  the  sand 
Like  shadows ; far  out  from  the  land 
Gray  gulls  slide  up  against  the  blue; 
One  shining  spar  is  sudden  manned 
By  squadrons  of  their  wrecking  crew. 

My  city  is  beyond  the  hill; 

I cannot  hear  its  voices  shrill; 

1 little  heed  its  gains  and  greeds ; 
Here  is  my  song,  where  waters  spill 
Their  liquid  strophes  in  the  reeds. 

And  to  this  music  I forswear 
Whatever  soils  the  world  with  care ; 

I see  the  listless  waters  toss— 

I track  the  swift  lark  through  the  air— 
I lie  with  sunlight  on  the  moss. 

* * * 

Until  the  homely  sunburnt  Heads, 

The  tumbling  hills  in  browns  and  reds. 
And  gray  sand-hillocks  everywhere 
Are  buried  in  the  mist  that  sheds 
Its  subtle  snow  upon  the  air. 

* * * 

— Charles  Warren  Stoddard. 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 

Along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay  lie  Berkeley,  Oakland 
and  Alameda,  with  San  Lorenzo,  San  Leandro  and  Haywards 
(once  parts  of  great  Spanish  ranches)  stretching  along  towards  the 
south,  a little  way  back  from  the  bay.  Near  the  southern  end  are 
San  Jose  and  Santa  Clara  in  the  beautiful  Santa  Clara  valley,athe 
garden  and  orchard  of  San  Francisco. ” A drive  through  the  great 
orchards  in  blossom  week  is  a drive  through  fairyland. 

A break  in  the  Coast  range  forms  the  Golden  Gate;  straits 
about  five  miles  long  and  averaging  one  and  three-quarters  miles 
in  width,  which  conned:  the  bay  with  the  ocean.  At  the  narrow- 
est part,  between  Fort  Point  and  Lime  Point,  it  is  only  one  mile 
wide.  The  name,  Golden  Gate,  first  appears  in  the  Geograph- 
ical Memoir  and  relative  map,  published  by  Fremont  in  1848,  so 
it  is  supposed  that  it  was  bestowed  by  him.  There  has  been  some 
discussion  as  to  the  significance  of  the  name.  An  entrance  to  the 
land  of  gold  is  the  first  thought  that  springs  to  mind,  but  the 
name  was  given  before  the  richness  of  Marshall’s  discovery  was 
known.  Some  have  supposed  that  the  hillside  slopes,  golden  with 
poppies,  suggested  the  name.  The  general  opinion  has  been  that 
Fremont  meant  the  name  to  signify  the  gateway  to  a rich  and 
fertile  country;  but  one  who  has  once  seen  a superb  California 
sunset  through  the  Gate-the  sun  sinking  into  the  ocean  diredly 
opposite  its  opening,  and  gilding  the  whole  passage  with  heavenly 
light— can  scarcely  fail  to  believe  that  to  Fremont,  too,  was  vouch- 
safed that  vision,  and  that  such  a sight  inspired  the  name. 

In  common  with  other  cities,  San  Francisco  has  undergone 
great  physical  changes  in  the  course  of  expansion;  in  her  case, 
to  an  even  greater  extent  than  is  usual.  Hills  and  valleys  have 
disappeared,  lagoons  and  swamps  and  streams  have  been  drained 
and  filled,  and  another  generation  will  find  it  difficult,  if  not  im- 
e,  to  trace  out  the  old 
features.  Even  now,  in  the 
number  of  her  hills,  San 
Francisco  can  outdo  Rome, 
and  there  were  many  more  at 
the  beginning  of  her  growth. 

Being  mostly  of  sand,  their 
removal  was  not  too  difficult 


Sunset  Through  the  Golden  Gate. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

and,  before  the  cable  car  was 
invented  to  solve  the  prob- 
lem of  transportation  over 
them,  they  had  to  be  removed 
to  enable  the  city  to  expand. 
The  principal  elevations  re- 
main,however, and  are  known 
to-day  by  the  names  which 
were  early  given  them.  Hills 
presuppose  valleys.  Several 
are  mentioned  in  the  diaries  of  early  days  whose  names  are  now 
seldom  heard. 

The  water-front  has,  perhaps,  undergone  the  greatest  change 
of  all.  Yerba  Buena  (or  Loma  Alta)  cove  was  an  indentation 
between  Rincon  Point  on  the  south  and  Clark’s  Point  on  the 
north.  The  latter  was  at  about  the  present  corner  of  Broadway 
and  Battery  streets.  The  cove  extended  inland  to  Montgomery 
street,  between  Jackson  and  Washington.  From  there  to  the 
present  water-front  is  all  made  land.  The  Ferry  building  is  about 
in  the  middle  of  the  cove.  The  water  came  within  two  blocks 
of  the  Palace  Hotel.  The  phrase, “when  the  water  came  up  to 
Montgomery  street,”  denotes  a certain  era  in  the  history  of  the 
town.  The  filling  in  of  the  water-front  began  very  soon  after 
the  discovery  of  gold  in  1848,  and  in  the  filling  a number  of 
abandoned  ships  were  enclosed.  Hundreds  of  men  risked  their 
lives  in  old,  unseaworthy  craft  to  get  here.  The  ships  were  not 
fit  to  make  the  return  voyage.  Others  of  a better  class  were  de- 
serted, their  crews  rushing  off  to  the  mines.  No  one  could  be 
hired  to  take  them  back  to  the  eastern  coast.  Many  of  these 
were  beached,  used  for  a while  for  different  purposes,  and  when 
the  filling  in  began  were  soon  fast  among  the  piles.  The  “Eu- 
phemia”  was  purchased  by  the  Ayuntamiento,  or  town  council, 
for  a prison.  Others  were  used  for  warehouses.  Some  were  con- 
verted into  hotels  or  saloons.  The  “Niantic”  was  on  the  lot  now 
the  southwest  corner  of  Clay  and  Sansome  streets.  Piles  were 
driven  on  each  side  to  steady  her,  and  she  was  then  used  for  a store- 
house. After  a time  it  was  filled  in  around  her.  It  was  no  unusual 
sight  in  the  early  days  to  see  a great  hull  between  two  buildings. 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 

One  of  the  fires  of  1851  destroyed  all  of  the  “Niantic”  above 
ground.  Soon  after,  a hotel-The  Niantic  House-was  built  on 
the  old  hulk  as  foundation.  In  1872  it  was  torn  down  to  make 
room  for  improvements  and,  in  excavating,  the  workmen  found 
the  bottom  of  the  ship’s  hold  filled  with  dirt  and,  buried  in  the 
dirt,  several  packages  of  merchandise  and  a case  of  champagne. 
So  recently  as  the  early  nineteen  hundreds,  a portion  of  this  hull 
was  disclosed  in  making  way  for  some  new  buildings.  In  O&ober, 
191 1,  a hull  was  unearthed  near  the  corner  of  Clay  and  Battery 
streets.  It  was  built  of  tremendously  heavy  oak  and  sheathed 
with  copper.  At  first  it  was  concluded  to  be  an  old  Spanish  war- 
ship of  the  time  before  the  Gringo  came  but,  all  the  warships 
known  to  have  visited  the  coast  being  accounted  for,  it  was  con- 
cluded to  be  a whaler,  built  in  an  unusually  substantial  manner 
for  ramming  ice. 

Very  soon  after  the  filling  in  of  the  water  lots  began,  wharves 
were  extended  into  deep  water.  In  1849  Broadway  wharf  was 
construded,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  by  the  end 
of  the  same  year  one  was  run  out  from  Montgomery  street,  on 
a line  with  Commercial,  eight  hundred  feet.  This  was  known 
as  Long  Wharf.  Life  on  Commercial  street  and  on  the  wharf 
was  full  of  curious  sights.  All  sorts  of  people  crowded  there. 
Auction  shops,  old  clothes  stores,  saloons  and  gambling  houses 
lined  the  street  on  both  sides. 

The  wharves  proved  good  investments,  so  others  soon  fol- 
lowed, and  before  two  years  were  over  there  were  more  than  six 
thousand  feet  of  wharves,  costing  over  a million  dollars. 

In  1850,  Henry  Meiggs  became  a prominent  citizen  of  San 
Francisco.  He  had  a sawmill  at  North  Beach.  He  became  con- 
vinced that  the  growth  of  the  city  must  be  towards  the  north. 
Millions  had  been  made  by 
the  filling  in  of  the  water  lots 
at  Yerba  Buena  cove,  and  he 
thought  he  could  do  the  same 
thing  at  North  Beach.  He 
bought  largely,  persuaded  his 
friends  to  buy,  and  then 
built  a wharf  two  thousand 

[41] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

feet  in  length,  known  as 
Meiggs’  wharf.  Some  years 
later  at  the  beach  end  of  this 
wharf  was  an  old  saloon  with 
which  was  connected  a mu- 
seum and  menagerie.  They 
had  many  visitors,  particu- 
larly country  people  who  were 
looking  for  interesting  sights 
Meiggs’  Wharf,  North  Beach.  of  the  city.  The  museum 

contained  many  curious  and  rare  objects,  some  of  them  of  con- 
siderable value.  Apparently  it  was  never  cleaned.  Undisturbed 
cobwebs  festooned  the  walls  and  the  place  acquired  the  sobriquet 
of  the  “Cobweb  Museum.” 

Meiggs  filled  in  lots,  graded  some  streets  and  did  much  for 
the  improvement  of  that  end  of  the  town.  It  all  took  more  money 
than  he  could  spare.  He  was  popular  and  was  able  to  borrow 
right  and  left,  but  the  settling  of  Mexican  land  titles  directed  the 
growth  of  the  town  south  instead  of  north,  and  Meiggs  was  not 
able  to  meet  his  indebtedness.  He  forged  warrants  and  finally, 
the  coils  tightening  around  him,  he  took  refuge  in  flight.  He 
engaged  a brig,  took  his  family  and  brother  with  him  and,  telling 
his  friends  he  was  going  to  sail  on  the  bay,  sailed  through  the 
Golden  Gate.  The  next  day  it  was  found  that  he  had  failed  for 
$ 800,000.  Tremendous  excitement  followed,  but  he  was  out  of 
reach.  He  went  to  Chile  and  Peru  and  constructed  railroads  for 
both  countries,  to  the  satisfaction  of  both  governments.  He  be- 
came a respected  citizen  there,  but  he  longed  to  pay  his  debts, 
and  to  return  to  San  Francisco  if  he  could  be  exempt  from  trial. 
Though  the  California  Legislature  passed  bills  allowing  him  to 
do  so,  they  were  unconstitutional,  and  he  died  in  Peru  in  1877. 

In  the  Sixties,  the  Oakland  railroad  wharf  was  constructed, 
three  thousand  six  hundred  feet  long,  which  made  regular  ferry 
service  possible  instead  of  being  obliged  to  depend  upon  tides. 

Saint  Ann’s  Valley,  one  of  the  valleys  sometimes  mentioned 
in  the  old  books,  lay  between  the  southern  end  of  Powell  street 
and  the  Mission,  and  was  traversed  by  one  of  the  regular  routes 
to  the  Mission.  A building,  called  Saint  Ann’s,  before  the  fire 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 


marked  the  old  entrance  to  the  valley.  Happy  Valley  lay  between 
the  base  of  the  California  Street  Hill  and  Rincon  Hill,  extending 
towards  Twin  Peaks.  Market  street  ran  through  the  length  of 
its  shifting  sand  dunes.  Just  south  lay  Pleasant  Valley.  NoeVal- 
ley  was  southwest  of  the  Mission,  in  a plot  granted  by  Governor 
Pio  Pico  in  1845  to  Jose  de  Jesus  Noe.  The  burial  vault  of  the 
Noe  family  is  in  the  old  Mission  church,  marked  by  a slab  in 
the  floor.  Eureka  Valley  lay  west  of  Noe  Valley,  between  the 
present  Twenty-first  street  and  Twin  Peaks.  Hayes  Valley  was 
a fertile  spot  surrounded  by  sand-hills,  laid  out  extensively  in 
truck  gardens.  Colonel  Thomas  Hayes,  the  owner,  lived  during 
the  Fifties  at  the  opening  of  the  valley  on  what  is  now  the 
block  bounded  by  Van  Ness  avenue,  Franklin,  Hayes  and  Fell 
streets.  Near  him  lived  James  Van  Ness,  author  of  the  Van  Ness 
ordinance  which  settled  the  title  of  outside  lands,  later  mayor 
of  the  city.  Colonel  Hayes  had  a beautiful  garden,  covering  a 
block  of  ground  about  his  home.  He  was  very  hospitable,  and 
entertained  twenty  or  thirty  gentlemen  at  luncheon  every  Sunday. 
His  over-generosity  in  endorsing  paper  for  his  friends  proved 
his  financial  ruin,  and  in  1859  his  property  was  divided  into 
lots  and  sold  at  au&ion. 

Three  lagoons,  within  the  early  boundaries  of  the  city,  are 
no  more  to  be  found.  At  the  time  the  Mission  was  established 
there  was  one  near  the  spot  seleded.  Several  small  streams  flowed 
into  it  and  one  from  it  southeast  to  the  bay.  Washerwoman's 
lagoon  was  a small  lake  south  of  Black  Point  and  west  of  what 
is  now  Larkin  street.  As  water  cost  not  less  than  a bit  a bucket, 
before  the  flume  of  1858  brought  water  from  Lobos  Creek  and 
Mountain  Lake  into  town,  not  much  washing  was  done  at  home. 
Indian  women,  and  later  Chinese,  used  this  fresh  water  pond  for 
a giant  washtub,  and  thus  it 
received  its  name.  It  is  said 
that  the  Chinamen  had  a 
way  of  slapping  the  surface 
of  the  water  with  the  clothes, 
which  made  a great  noise  that 
could  be  heard  at  a consider- 
able distance.  There  was  a 

[43] 


Life  On  Long  Wharf,  1852  (page  41) 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

lagoon  covering  several  acres,  with  its  center  near  the  interse&ion 
of  Jackson  and  Montgomery  streets.  It  was  fed  by  water  from 
a ravine  which  ran  down  Sacramento  street.  Near  the  southwest 
corner  of  Sacramento  and  Montgomery  streets  stood  an  Indian 
sweat  house,  or  temescal,  built  near  the  lagoon  so  that  the  Indi- 
ans, after  their  steaming,  could  plunge  into  the  cold  water.  This 
temescal  stood  until  1842.  The  lagoon  was  connected  with  the 
bay  by  a small  stream  which  overflowed  at  high  tide.  As  much 
of  the  settled  portion  of  the  town  was  south  of  this  stream  and 
lagoon,  to  get  to  Clark’s  Point  people  had  to  cross  the  creek  the 
best  way  they  could,  by  wading  or  jumping.  When  Captain 
Hinckley  was  Alcalde  he  had  a little  bridge  built.  It  was  a great 
convenience,  but  even  more  an  object  of  curiosity  as  a great  public 
improvement.  People  came  from  far  and  near  to  see  it,  espe- 
cially the  native  Californians,  who  came  from  the  Mission  and 
elsewhere  with  their  wives  and  children  to  wonder  at  it. 

Near  the  corner  of  Mission  and  Seventh  streets  was  a swamp 
which  extended  towards  Mission  cove.  This  likewise  has  been 
drained  and  filled,  but  the  made  ground  at  the  time  of  the  earth- 
quake caused  some  trouble  near  the  present  Post  Office. 

Telegraph  Hill  received  its  name  from  its  early  use  as  a 
signal  station,  to  inform  the  people  in  the  town  when  a ship  was 
coming  in.  The  matchless  view  from  its  summit  made  it  a 
favorite  obje&ive  point  for  a walk  when  the  town  was  clustered 
near  its  base.  The  north  and  east  sides  were  early  blasted  away, 
and  ships  (unloading  their  merchandise  below)  carried  away  the 
debris  as  ballast.  Small  cottages  climbed  the  sides  as  the  years 
went  by,  their  gardens  almost  perpendicular  behind  them.  Stair- 
ways led  up  and  down  to  the  houses,  with  little  bridges  here  and 
there  to  span  the  gullies.  In  T 'he  Secret  of  Telegraph  Hill , one  of 

Bret  Harte’s  short  stories, 
the  scene  is  laid  on  Tele- 
graph Hill  in  those  days. 
With  its  incomparable  view, 
it  should  have  been  terraced 
and  made  a pleasure  garden. 
The  slopes  and  base  are  now 
a part  of  the  Italian  quarter. 


Early  Signal  Station  on  Telegraph  Hill. 


Warner’s  Cobweb  Museum 
Which,  with  His  Menagerie,  was 
On  North  Beach  at  the 
Southern  End  of  Meiggs’  Wharf. 
Cobwebs  Hung  Like 
Clouds  From  the  Ceiling 
and  Veiled  Pictures 
and  Frames. 


North  Beach . 

( After  Spenser) . 

Lo  ! where  the  castle  of  bold  Pfeiffer  throws 
Its  sullen  shadow  on  the  rolling  tide— 

No  more  the  home  where  joy  and  wealth  repose , 

But  now  where  wassailers  in  cells  abide ; 

See  yon  long  quay  that  stretches  far  and  wide , 

Well  known  to  citizens  as  wharf  of  Meiggs ; 

There  each  sweet  Sabbath  walks  in  maiden  pride 
The  pensive  Margaret  and  brave  Pat , whose  legs 
Encased  in  broadcloth  oft  keep  time  with  Peg's. 

* * * 

Hard  by  there  stands  an  ancient  hostelrie , 

And  at  its  side  a garden , where  the  bear , 

The  stealthy  catamount , and  coon  agree 
To  work  deceit  on  all  who  gather  there ; 

And  when  Augusta— that  unconscious  fair— 

With  nuts  and  apples  plieth  bruin  free , 

Lo ! the  green  parrot  claweth  her  back  hair 
And  the  gray  monkey  grabbeth  fruits  that  she 
On  her  gay  bonnet  wears,  and  laugheth  loud  in  glee 

— Bret  Harte. 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 

During  the  fire  many  Italians  in  the  vicinity  saved  their  little 
homes  by  covering  the  roofs  with  blankets  wet  with  the  home- 
made wine  stored  in  their  cellars.  Continual  blasting  has  made 
the  hill  still  more  shabby  than  it  need  be. 

“O,  Tely graft  Hill,  she  sits  proud  as  a queen. 

And  th’  docks  lie  below  in  th’  glare. 

And  th’  bay  runs  beyant  her  all  purple  and  green 
Wid  th’  gingerbread  island  out  there. 

And  th’ ferryboats  toot  at  owld  Telygraft  Hill, 

And  th’  Hill  it  don’t  care  if  they  do. 

While  th’  Bradys  and  Caseys  a v Telygraft  Hill 
Joost  sit  there  enj’yin’ th’ view. 

For  th’  Irish  they  live  on  th’  top  av  it. 

And  th’  Dagoes  they  live  on  th’  base  av  it. 

And  th’  goats  and  th’  chicks  and  th’  brickbats  and  shticks 
Is  joombled  all  over  th’  face  av  it, 

Av  Telygraft  Hill,  Telygraft  Hill, 

Crazy  owld,  daisy  owld  Telygraft  Hill !” — Wallace  Irwin. 

But  Telegraph  Hill-so  scarred  and  abused,  its  splendid  site 
unheeded,  save  by  the  few  who  have  been  struggling  for  its  im- 
provement-is  likely  to  come  into  its  own.  A glorious  dream, 
which  seems  well  on  the  way  towards  realization,  is  to  crown  the 
summit  of  the  hill  with  a reproduction  in  white  marble  of  the 
Parthenon  in  the  days  of  its  glory.  The  Greeks  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, led  by  the  Grecian  Consul,  are  planning  this  illustrious 
memorial  for  the  Exposition  of  1915.  It  will  add  the  crowning 
beauty  to  the  scene  which  will  greet  the  voyager  as  he  enters 
the  bay.  Height  after  height  when  passed  will  be  seen  to  lift 
towards  heaven  a splendid  structure,  but  the  city  will  ccproudly 
wear  the  Parthenon  as  the  best  gem  upon  her  zone.” 

From  Russian  Hill  the  views  are  as  magnificent  as  from 
Telegraph  Hill,  and  it  is  somewhat  more  accessible.  It  received 
its  name  from  the  Russian 
burial  ground  which  was  on 
its  slopes  during  the  days  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  agency  in 
San  Francisco.  The  small 
cluster  of  houses  which  sur- 
mount it  was  saved  during 
the  fire  by  individual  effort. 

[45] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

James  Hopper,  in  his  graphic 
story  of  the  days  of  the  fire, 
tells  of  standing  on  the  top 
of  Russian  Hill  at  the  end 
of  the  third  day  and  thinking 
he  heard  strains  of  music. 
“It  was  no  hallucination,’’  he 
wrote.  “Upon  the  top  of  the 
Jones  Street  hill,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  street,  the  only 
thing  standing  in  that  direction  for  miles  was  a piano.  A man 
was  playing  upon  it.  I could  see  his  hands  rising  and  falling,  his 
body  swaying.  In  the  wind  his  long,  black  hair  and  loosened  tie 
streamed.  The  wind  bore  the  sounds  away  from  me,  but  in  a lull 
I finally  heard  the  music.  It  was  Saint  Saens’s  cDanse  Macabre/ 
the  death  dance.  His  hands  beat  up  and  down,  his  body  swayed, 
his  hair  streamed,  and  from  the  crest  down  over  the  devastated 
city  poured,  like  a cascade,  the  notes  with  their  sound  of  shaken 
dry  bones.” 

Lone  Mountain,  the  conical  hill  surmounted  by  a cross, 
rising  abruptly  from  the  western  part  of  the  city;  Twin  Peaks, 
at  the  head  of  Market  street;  Buena  Vista  Hill;  Bernal  Heights; 
Strawberry  Hill  in  the  Park;  Nob  Hill;  Mount  Parnassus-all 
have  kept  their  early  contours;  but  Rincon  Hill,  how  fallen  from 
its  great  estate!  First  the  favorite  picnic  grounds  of  Yerba  Buena 
days,  then  a fashionable  residence  district  where  trees  waved  and 
gardens  surrounded  the  homes  of  wealth,  then  cut  and  gashed 
and  graded  until  now  one  can  scarcely  define  its  boundaries;  and 
there1  are  none  so  poor  to  do  it  reverence.  Here  in  the  late  Sev- 
enties, after  its  glory  had  departed,  Charles  Warren  Stoddard 
“set  up  his  tabernacle  in  the  ruins  of  a house,  which  even  then 
‘stood  upon  the  order  of  its  going.’”  Here,  one  day,  to  “the 
modest  side  door  which  had  become  the  front  door  because  the 
rest  of  the  building  was  gone,”  came  “a  lean,  lithe  stranger.  I 
knew  him  for  a poet  by  his  unshorn  locks,  and  his  luminous 
eyes,  the  pallor  of  his  face,  and  his  exquisitely  sensitive  hands.” 
The  “crumbling  estate,”  the  “sighing  cypresses”  and  the  “shaky 
stairway”  were  to  him  singularly  appealing, “for  he  was  a poet  and 

[4«i 


Russian  Hill  and  the  Hills  Across  the  Bay. 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 

a romancer  and  his  name  was  Robert  Louis  Stevenson.”  Every- 
one knows  that  it  was  through  his  talks  with  Stoddard  in  that 
eyrie  on  Rincon  Hill  that  Stevenson  first  fell  under  the  spell  of 
the  islands  of  the  Pacific.  In  The  IVrecker , Stevenson  has  de- 
scribed that  “place  of  precarious,  sandy  cliffs,  deep,  sandy  cut- 
tings, solitary  ancient  houses,  and  the  butt-ends  of  streets.”  The 
Second  Street  gash,  which  ruined  the  hill,  was  a real  estate  spec- 
ulation which  benefited  nobody.  Stoddard  tells  of  a bridge,' “an 
agony  of  wood  and  iron,”  which  leaped  the  chasm.  Gertrude 
Atherton  has  used  the  hill  and  South  Park  as  a setting  for  her 
story,  The  Californians . 

The  first  survey  of  Yerba  Buena  by  Jean  Vioget  included 
only  twenty-four  blocks  and  named  no  streets.  In  1846  Jasper 
O'Farrell,  a civil  engineer,  was  appointed  to  make  a second  sur- 
vey of  the  town  and  enlarge  its  boundaries.  His  map  included 
Post,  Leavenworth  and  Francisco  streets  and,  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  town,  four  blocks  fronting  on  Fourth  street  and  also 
eleven  on  Second  street.  It  was  thought  advisable  to  change  the 
acute  and  obtuse  angles  of  Vioget’s  lots  by  making  the  streets 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  This  transferred  the  situation 
of  all  the  lots,  and  was  afterwards  called  “O’Farrell’s  Swing”  of 
the  city.  The  corner  of  Kearny  and  Washington  streets  was  the 
pivot  of  the  swing.  The  new  maps  gave  to  the  streets  their  pres- 
ent names-Montgomery,  Dupont  and  Stockton,  to  remind  the 
people  of  the  part  of  the  navy  in  the  foundation  of  their  city; 
Kearny,  Mason,  Fremont  and  Taylor,  to  commemorate  the 
army.  To  the  other  streets  were  given  the  names  of  early  citi- 
zens—Howard,  Brannan,  Bryant,  Sutter,  Folsom,  Hyde,  Jones, 
Harrison,  Leavenworth,  Leidesdorff.  Larkin,  the  American  con- 
sul at  Monterey,  was  also  remembered,  as  was  General  Vallejo, 
who  was  friendly  to  the  Am- 
ericans. Market  street  was 
first  marked  out  by  O’Far- 
rell,  who  fully  understood 
the  importance  of  making 
the  main  street  in  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  town  conform 
in  direction  with  the  route 


The  Second  Street  Cut.  which  Spoiled  Rincon  Hill. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

usually  taken  from  Yerba 
Buena  to  the  Mission.  This 
street  was  made  later  by  the 
town  council,  of  which  James 
Van  Ness  was  a member.  It 
also  laid  out  and  named  Van 
Ness  avenue  for  him.  O’Far- 
rell’s  name  was  given  to  a 
street,  and  the  first  mayor 
(JohnW.  Geary)  stood  spon- 
sor for  another.  As  the  town  expanded  its  borders  the  new  streets 
were  given  the  names  of  local  men  of  importance.  Broderick, 
Hayes,  Haight,  McAllister  were  thus  remembered.  The  names 
of  some  streets  have  a geographical  significance.  Laguna  led 
towards  the  old  Washerwoman’s  lagoon;  Devisadero  once  marked 
the  division  between  the  city  limits  and  outside  lands. 

The  so-called  wagon  road,  cut  through  chaparral  and  scrub 
oak  in  1838  from  Yerba  Buena  to  the  Mission,  although  it  al- 
lowed riders  to  pass  without  danger  of  being  scraped  off  their 
horses,  afforded  little  amelioration  of  the  way  underfoot.  It  was 
through  deep  sand  and  by  a circuitous  route  and,  though  differ- 
ent paths  were  sought  out  as  the  years  went  by,  all  must  skirt 
the  big  morass,  which  lengthened  the  distance  considerably.  The 
journey  was  such  an  undertaking  that  it  cost  $ 1 5 or  $2C  to  move 
a load  of  hay  from  the  Mission  to  the  city.  In  1849  Governor 
Burnett  paid  the  owner  of  a spring  wagon  $ 150  to  move  his  fam- 
ily from  the  city  to  San  Jose,  bad  roads  to  the  Mission  compel- 
ling this  excessive  cost.  In  1850  Charles  Wilson  proposed  to 
build  at  his  own  expense  a plank  road  from  the  city  to  the 
Mission,  provided  he  were  allowed  to  colled  tolls  and  to  have 
exclusive  right  of  way.  His  proposition  was  at  first  denied,  but 
a bill  which  enabled  him  to  proceed  finally  passed  the  board  of 
Aldermen  over  the  Alcalde’s  veto.  He  had  intended  to  build 
a bridge  several  hundred  feet  long  over  the  quagmire  before 
mentioned  but,  after  driving  two  twenty-foot  piles  (one  on  top  of 
the  other)  out  of  sight  with  two  blows  of  the  pile-driver,  that 
projed  had  to  be  abandoned.  Finally  the  road  was  laid  over  a 
crib  of  logs  which  was  built  on  a platform  laid  over  the  bog.  This 

[48] 


Washerwoman’ s Lagoon  (page  43). 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 

at  first  was  perfectly  level,  but  it  shook  when  any  one  drove  or 
rode  over  it,  and  finally  sank  in  the  center  at  least  five  feet.  The 
road  ran  by  Kearny,  Third  and  Mission  streets,  from  California 
street  to  Fifteenth,  three  and  three-quarters  miles.  Mission  street 
was  preferred  to  Market  because  there  was  a high  sand-hill  on 
Market,  between  Second  and  Fifth.  A deep  cut  was  made  through 
sand-hills  on  Kearny  street  for  the  passage  of  this  road.  One,  at 
Post  street,  could  not  be  driven  around,  and  here  the  toll-gate 
was  placed.  The  cost  of  building  this  road  was  about  $30,000  a 
mile;  the  investment  paid  nearly  eight  per  cent,  a month. 

As  the  city  grew  there  was  talk  of  opening  a parallel  free 
road  to  the  Mission,  but  the  Plank  Road  Company  obtained 
another  franchise  for  a road  on  Folsom  street.  This  ran  for  half 
a mile  across  swamps,  between  Third  and  Eighth  streets,  and 
there  was  great  difficulty  in  filling  the  swamps.  A high  tide 
in  1854  overflowed  the  road  between  Fourth  and  Fifth  streets 
and  floated  off  much  of  the  planking.  The  two  roads,  between 
1853  and  1858,  when  they  reverted  to  the  city  and  became  free, 
paid  three  per  cent,  a month  net  on  the  capital  invested. 

In  1854  Powell  street  was  graded  from  Clay  to  North  Beach; 
also  Pacific  street,  where  a deep  cut  was  made  through  a rocky 
hill  between  Montgomery  and  Sansome  streets.  Omnibuses, 
which  had  been  instituted  in  1852,  began  to  run  regularly  every 
half  hour  between  North  Beach  and  South  Park.  In  1 863  omni- 
buses were  superseded  by  horse-cars,  operated  by  the  Omnibus 
Street  Railroad  Company.  In  i860  a steam  railroad  was  con- 
structed, from  where  Lotta’s  Fountain  now  stands,  through 
Market  and  Valencia  streets,  which  gave  easy  access  to  Hayes 
Valley  and  the  Mission.  The  North  Beach  and  Mission  Street 
Railway  and  the  Central  were  in  operation  in  1 863.  In  1 866  the 
Sutter  Street  road  and  the 
Bay  View  road  were  com- 
pleted. For  all  these  various 
lines  the  streets  were  graded, 
sand-hills  removed  and  de- 
pressions filled, so  that  hardly 
any  portion  of  the  city  within 
its  early  boundaries  remained 

[49] 


Orphan  Asylum,  and  St.  Patrick’s  Church,  1856. 
Palace  Hotel  Site,  Rincon  Hill  Beyond. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

'at  the  old  levels;  but,  as  the  city  expanded,  the  hills  grew  steeper 
towards  the  west  and  the  problem  of  transportation  became  a 
serious  one.  The  invention  of  the  cable  car  by  A.  S.  Hallidie, 
of  San  Francisco,  solved  the  problem  and,  from  1873  when  the 
Clay  Street  line  proved  itself  a success,  steep  hills  were  no  barrier 
to  the  city’s  growth. 

It  is  a great  pity  that  in  laying  out  the  city  some  of  the 
roads  had  not  been  made  to  wind  around  the  steep  hills,  con- 
forming to  their  contour,  instead  of  going  uncompromisingly 
over  or  through  and  cutting  and  slashing  so  ruthlessly,  as  has 
been  done;  sometimes  laying  out  streets  so  steep  that  they  be- 
came grass  grown  for  want  of  travel,  at  other  times  spoiling  sec- 
tions by  disfiguring  cuts  in  order  that  streets  may  be  level. 
Realizing  the  need  of  a comprehensive  plan  which  should  cor- 
rect as  far  as  possible  these  mistakes  and  provide  for  the  recon- 
struction and  further  development  of  the  city  along  more  artistic 
(as  well  as  more  convenient)  lines,  in  1904  a number  of  earnest 
citizens  banded  themselves  together  as  “An  Association  for  the 
Improvement  and  Adornment  of  San  Francisco.”  They  invited 
Daniel  H.  Burnham,  of  Chicago,  who  had  designed  the  beautiful 
White  City  of  the  Chicago  World’s  Fair,  to  come  to  San  Francisco 
and  show  us  how  a city  could  attain  to  the  beauty  which  an  incom- 
parable location  had  made  her  birthright.  Mr.  Burnham,  with 
his  assistants,  worked  for  months  in  a bungalow  on  Twin  Peaks, 
the  city  spread  out  like  a map  before  them.  After  much  study 
a plan  was  devised  which  supplemented  our  checker-board  streets 
by  diagonal  avenues  making  short  cuts  between  centers  of  in- 
terest; which  gave  by  winding  roadways  easy  access  to  steep  hills; 
which  provided  a civic  center  for  public  buildings;  which  laid 
out  boulevards  surrounding  the  city  and  conne&ing  Golden  Gate 

Park,  the  Presidio  and  Twin 
Peaks.  It  was  a beautiful 
dream,  and  would  also  have 
made  for  convenience  of  all 
traffic  if  it  could  have  been 
carried  out.  Our  minds  were 
full  of  it  when  the  fire  came 
and  made  its  clean  sweep. 

[s°] 

Market  Street,  1865,  Looking  Towards  Twin  Peaks. 


After  the  Fire. 

Portico  of  Home  of  A.  N.  Towne 
On  Nob  Hill.  (See  page  69). 
Photograph  by  R.  J.  Waters. 


San  Francisco . 

* * * 

Gray  wind-blown  ashes , broken,  toppling  wall 

And  ruined  hearth— are  these  thy  funeral  pyre  ? 
Black  desolation  covering  as  a pall— 

Is  this  the  end , my  love  and  my  desire? 

Nay ; strong , undaunted , thoughtless  of  despair. 

The  Will  that  builded  thee  shall  build  again. 
And  all  thy  broken  promise  spring  more  fair , 

Thou  mighty  mother  of  as  mighty  men! 

Thou  wilt  arise  invincible,  supreme! 

The  earth  to  voice  thy  glory  never  tire. 

And  song,  unborn,  shall  chant  no  nobler  theme. 
Proud  city  of  my  love  and  my  desire! 

But  I— shall  see  thee  ever  as  of  old! 

Thy  wraith  of  pearl,  wall,  minaret,  and  spire. 
Framed  in  the  mists  that  veil  thy  Gate  of  Gold, 
Lost  city  of  my  love  and  my  desire  ! 

—In  a Coolbrith. 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS 

Then  seemed  the  great  opportunity  for  carrying  out  the  plan,  or 
some  modification  of  it  at  least.  But  with  the  necessity  laid  upon 
the  property  owners  to  rebuild  as  soon  as  possible,  the  alterations 
did  not  seem  of  such  vital  importance.  The  reduction  of  size  of 
many  lots  under  the  Burnham  plan,  the  necessary  purchases  of 
land  by  the  city  and  the  time  required  in  rearranging  titles  seemed 
prohibitive  in  the  dire  necessity  of  the  times;  so  the  old  uncom- 
promising lines  were  followed  and  the  streets  remained  as  before. 
Though  as  a whole  the  plan  will  not  be  carried  out,  its  influence 
will  be  felt  as  the  city  develops.  The  civic  center,  as  planned  by 
the  present  city  administration  in  conjunction  with  the  Exposi- 
tion committee,  and  the  water-front  boulevard,  which  is  a part 
of  the  Exposition  design,  express  two  of  its  important  features. 

The  ordinance  authorizing  the  bond  issue  for  the  new  City 
Hall  provided  also  for  the  purchase  of  adjacent  lands  required 
for  other  public  buildings,  the  whole  when  completed  to  form  a 
civic  center  of  permanent  beauty  and  dignity.  The  ordinance 
covered  the  area  bounded  by  Market  street.  Golden  Gate  avenue, 
Van  Ness  avenue  and  Hayes  street;  but,  on  account  of  the  great 
expense  involved  in  the  purchase  of  improved  property,  it  is 
probable  the  plot  will  be  limited  to  the  old  City  Hall  site,  the 
Mechanics’  Pavilion  property,  and  the  two  adjacent  blocks  north, 
facing  Larkin  street,  with  Marshall  Square  widened  one  hundred 
feet  on  each  side.  This  provides  the  requisite  space  for  a mag- 
nificent group  of  buildings  arranged  around  a central  plaza  cover- 
ing two  city  blocks.  Trees,  shrubs,  grass  and  flowers  will  enhance 
the  architectural  effeCts  while,  through  the  approaches  from  Mar- 
ket street  and  Van  Ness  avenue,  vistas  of  the  fine  fa£ades  will  be 
afforded.  This  group  will  probably  comprise,  besides  the  City 
Hall,  an  Auditorium,  a Public  Library,  an  Art  Museum,  an 
Opera  House  and  perhaps 
a State  Building.  The  Expo- 
sition Committee  proposes  to 
ereCt  a million-dollar  Audi- 
torium, which  will  remain  as 
a permanent  memorial  of  the 
great  Panama-Pacific  Inter- 
national Exposition. 

d 


New  City  Hall.  Courtesy  of  the  Architects, 
Bakewell  & Brown. 


The  Ferry  Tower,  as  We  See  It  from  the  Ferry  Boats. 

Chapter  Three  • Ferry  Building  • Water  Front 

The  main  gateway  to  San  Francisco  is  the  impressive 
Ferry  Building.  Those  who  come  by  sea  are  landed 
at  the  near-by  docks.  This  is  fortunate-the  only 
other  entrance  (the  Southern  Pacific  station  at  Third 
and  Townsend  streets)  being  quite  unworthy  of  a city 
of  this  size  and  importance.  Terminal  facilities, with  a handsome 
station  building  in  a more  convenient  portion  of  the  city,  are  a 
part  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company’s  plans  for  future  devel- 
opment. The  terminus  of  most  overland  trains,  those  of  the 
Shasta  Route  and  some  of  the  Los  Angeles  trains,  is  the  eastern 
side  of  the  bay,  and  passengers  are  transferred  by  ferry  to  San 
Francisco.  Only  the  Coast  Line  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  a beau- 
tiful scenic  route  to  Los  Angeles,  and  suburban  trains  down  the 
peninsula  leave  from  the  station  at  Third  and  Townsend  streets. 

The  Ferry  Building  was  eredted  by  the  State  Board  of 
Harbor  Commissioners  in  1 896,  at  a cost  of  over  $1,000,000.  It 
is  built  of  Colusa  sandstone,  with  marble  lavishly  used  for  wain- 
scots, partitions,  et  cetera.  It  has  a frontage  of  659  feet,  a 
depth  of  156  feet  and  is  surmounted  in  the  center  by  a graceful 
clock  tower,  32  feet  square  and  240  feet  high.  The  dial  is  22 
feet  in  diameter,  with  numerals  3 feet  in  length.  The  arcaded 
front  on  the  ground  floor  leads  to  the  waiting  rooms  of  the  dif- 
ferent ferry  lines.  North  of  the  central  tower  are  the  Key  Route, 
Santa  Fe,  Western  Pacific,  Sausalito  and  Tiburon  lines.  The 
Key  Route  connects  with  local  eledtric  trains  on  the  other  side 
of  the  bay  for  Oakland,  Berkeley  and  Piedmont.  The  Santa  Fe 
ferry  goes  to  Point  Richmond  to  conned!  with  overland  trains. 
The  Western  Pacific  is  an  overland  route,  while  Sausalito  and 

[521 


FERRY  BUILDING  • WATER  FRONT 

Tiburon  ferries  conned  with  the  Northwestern-Pacific  lines.  By 
the  Sausalito  line  Mill  Valley,  Mount  Tamalpais,  San  Anselmo 
and  San  Rafael  are  reached. 

South  of  the  central  tower  are  the  Southern  Pacific  ferries 
to  Oakland,  Alameda,  Berkeley  and  overland.  The  Creek  Route 
ferry  boat  for  the  foot  of  Broadway,  Oakland,  leaves  hourly  from 
a dock  just  south  of  the  Southern  Pacific  slips.  There  are  also 
public  telephone  booths,  telegraph  and  express  offices,  places 
for  checking  hand  luggage,  news,  candy  and  flower  stands.  The 
baggage  room  of  the  Southern  Pacific  is  at  the  extreme  south  of 
the  building.  Near  by  is  a branch  postoffice. 

On  the  second  floor  is  a grand  nave,  the  full  length  of  the 
building.  Here  large  receptions  have  been  held,  and  flower  shows 
of  great  beauty  and  interest.  South  and  north  of  the  main  stair- 
ways, up  another  short  flight,  are  the  exhibits  of  the  State  Devel- 
opment Board  and  the  State  Mining  Bureau,  both  well  worth  a 
visit.  They  are  open  from  io  a.  m.  to  5 p.  m.  There  are  notable 
exhibitions  of  all  the  State  produds  and  extensive  colledions  of 
minerals,  relief  maps,  an  information  desk,  bulletins  and  other 
printed  matter;  and  ledures,  with  stereopticon  views,  are  given 
every  afternoon  from  2 to  4.  Admission  to  all  is  free,  and  lit- 
erature is  freely  distributed.  Between  the  two  stairways  is  the 
Ladies’  Waiting  Room. 

The  offices  of  the  Harbor  Commissioners  open  from  the 
grand  nave,  also  those  of  the  State  Horticultural  Commissioner 
and  of  the  State  Railroad  Commissioners.  From  this  floor  are 
the  entrances  to  the  upper  decks  of  the  ferry  boats. 

North  and  south  of  the  Ferry  Building  are  the  steamship 
docks— miles  of  concrete  seawall,  with  wharves  stretching  out  into 
the  bay;  miles  of  enchantment  to  the  stroller  ccwhere  the  world- 
end  steamers  wait.’  ’ H ow  dif- 
ficult in  the  old  school-room, 
far  from  the  sea,  to  fix  in  our 
minds  the  C<chief  produds” 
of  a country!  What  bug- 
bears they  were  in  our  old 
geography  lessons!  Here,  at 
our  very  feet  great  ships  are 


The  Ferry  Building  From  the  Emharcadero. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

pouring  them  out  or  are  load- 
ing with  our  own  productions 
for  far-off  lands.  Here  is  ge- 
ography made  alive.  Here 
are  copra  and  cocoanuts  and 
bananas  from  the  South  seas; 
here  are  tea  and  silks  from 
the  Orient;  here  is  coffee 
from  Costa  Rica  and  Brazil; 
coal  from  Australia;  lumber 
from  the  northern  ports;  perhaps  a rare  whaler  from  the  Arctic 
seas.  Here  we  “touch  Asia,  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  the 
Happy  Islands.”  Further  on,  ships  are  loading  with  our  own 
wheat  or  barley,  with  canned  fruit  or  salmon  for  other  ports. 
That  ship,  with  yellow-brown  stacks  banded  with  red,  white  and 
blue,  is  a United  States  transport,  taking  on  army  stores  for 
the  Philippines.  This  little  schooner  is  being  fitted  to  search 
for  the  Cocos  Island  treasure.  From  here  Stevenson  set  sail  for 
the  South  Seas,  and  Jack  London  began  his  cruise  of  the  Snark. 
Here  are  Commerce  and  Adventure  side  by  side. 

What  variety  of  craft-the  big  ocean  liners,  the  coast  steamers 
(somewhat  smaller)  for  Los  Angeles,  Portland  or  Seattle,  the  odd- 
looking, stern-wheel  river  steamers  for  Stockton  or  Sacramento, 
the  trim  boats  of  the  Monticello  line  for  Vallejo  and  Mare  Is- 
land, schooners  with  four,  five  or  six  masts,  and  small  sloops. 
Out  in  the  bay  a grim,  gray  warship  is  anchored-perhaps  more 
than  one,  our  own  or  foreign.  Sometimes  a Chinese  junk,  sailing 
to  us  from  another  century,  lies  alongside  the  last  creation  of  the 
shipbuilders*  art.  The  huge,  white  Southern  Pacific  ferry  boats 
are  plying  back  and  forth,  and  the  smaller  and  swifter  yellow  boats 
of  the  Key  Route.  Government  naphtha  launches  dart  out  from 
the  island  opposite,  fussy  little  tugs  are  pushing  their  ponderous 
charges  or  looking  for  a job,  while  in  the  distance  (if  it  is  the 
right  time  of  the  tide)  are  seen  the  picturesque  lateen  sails  of  the 
fishing  boats  going  out  or  coming  in  the  Golden  Gate.  From 
Fisherman’s  Wharf  on  North  Beach,  where  the  Greek  and  Ne- 
apolitan fishermen  foregather,  around  to  the  China  Basin,  all  is 
fascinating  to  a lover  of  the  sea. 


[54] 


FERRY  BUILDING  • WATER  FRONT 

Ernest  Peixotto  says, “If  you  want  to  behold  a bit  of  the 
Bay  of  Naples,  go  some  misty  morning  to  Fisherman’s  Wharf.” 
Go  any  time  of  day  and  you  will  be  rewarded.  If  the  fleet  is  out, 
you  will  find  some  of  the  fishermen  left  behind  to  mend  their 
nets,  festooning  them  along  the  wharf  to  dry,  or  busy  about 
their  boats-always  pi&uresque— their  love  of  color  displayed  in 
bright  shirts,  in  red  and  blue  Tams,  or  in  their  gay  little  boats, 
painted  in  rainbow  colors,  bright  blue,  yellow,  green  or  striped. 
And  if  you  have  happened  upon  just  the  right  time  to  see  the 
fleet,  the  sight  is  unforgetable-dozens  of  these  bright  boats  with 
their  tawny,  three-cornered  sails  like  a flock  of  great,  yellow 
butterflies  as  they  glide  over  the  water.  To  reach  Fisherman’s 
Wharf,  take  the  Powell  Street  car  marked  North  Beach  and 
walk  a couple  of  blocks  beyond  the  end  of  the  car  line. 

Away  around  at  the  other  end  of  the  water  front,  in  South 
San  Francisco  (and  reached  only  by  water),  is  Hunter’s  Point 
Dry  Dock,  the  largest  in  America.  Half  way  between  the  dry 
dock  and  the  Ferry  Building  is  the  Union  Iron  Works,  founded 
in  1849  by  James  and  Peter  Donahue.  In  1850  their  shops  were 
situated  on  First  street  between  Market  and  Mission,  nearly  op- 
posite where  the  commemorative  Donahue  fountain  now  stands. 
The  tide  came  up  under  the  workshops  on  the  east  side  of  First 
street.  The  plant  at  first  consisted  only  of  a small  furnace  with 
a blast  produced  by  blacksmiths’  bellows,  the  whole  not  even 
protected  by  covering  from  the  weather.  From  this  small  begin- 
ning was  developed  the  great  establishment  which  can  turn  out 
any  craft  from  a gasoline  launch  to  a battleship.  Here  were  built 
the  Ohio  of  the  United  States  navy,  which  was  launched  by 
President  McKinley  in  1901,  and  the  Oregon,  famed  for  that 
wonderful  trip  around  the  Horn  during  the  Spanish  war,  and 
which  we  hope  will  lead  the 
fleet  through  the  Panama 
Canal  in  1915.  The  Union 
Iron  Works  may  be  reached 
by  the  Broadway  cars  going 
south  on  Kearny  and  Third 
streets.  These  cars  start  from 
the  Ferry  Building. 

f55] 


Fisherman’s  Wharf  When  the  Fleet  Is  In. 


The  First  Cable  Car.  Clay  Street. 


Chapter  Four  • Street  Car  Systems 

The  first  regular  transportation  afforded  the  city  was 
by  omnibus  in  1 852.  In  1 860  steam  cars  from  Lotta’s 
fountain  to  the  Mission  offered  swifter  means  of  travel 
between  those  two  points,  giving  access  to  Hayes  Val- 
ley and  The  Willows.  In  1863  horse  cars  were  sub- 
stituted for  omnibuses  and  operated  by  the  Omnibus  Street 
Railroad  Company.  From  time  to  time  franchises  were  granted 
to  other  companies.  Lines  were  extended  along  streets  which 
were  fairly  level  and  where  cuts  could  be  made;  but  it  was  not 
until  the  invention  of  the  cable  car  by  A.  S.  Hallidie,  of  San 
Francisco,  assisted  by  Joseph  Britton  and  William  Eppenheimer, 
that  street  cars  could  be  operated  on  the  steep  grades.  In  1873  a 
trial  cable  was  laid  on  Clay  street,  between  Kearny  and  Jones. 
This  was  the  first  cable  street  railway  in  the  world.  Proving  suc- 
cessful, the  line  was  extended  on  Clay  street,  and  cable  cars  were 
soon  put  in  operation  on  other  hilly  streets.  In  the  early  Nine- 
ties ele&ricity  was  applied  to  the  level  roads  and  new  eledxic 
lines  were  built.  Roads  south  of  Market  street  were  first  elec- 
trified. In  1902  the  United  Railroads  of  San  Francisco,  incor- 
porated under  the  laws  of  California,  acquired  the  holdings  of 
most  of  the  San  Francisco  street  railroads.  The  parent  company 
is  the  United  Railways  Investment  Company  of  New  Jersey. 

Great  changes  are  being  discussed;  to  accommodate  the 
ever-growing  traffic,  to  open  up  new  districts  and  to  provide  for 
rapid  transportation  to  the  Exposition  grounds  in  1915.  It  is 
hoped  that  the  municipality  and  the  present  street  railway  in- 
terests will  work  in  harmony  to  meet  the  present  and  future 
demands.  The  city,  owning  the  Geary  Street  Railway,  has  an 

[5«] 


San  Francisco  Bay. 
From  a Painting  by 
IV.  A.  Coulter. 


San  Francisco— From  the  Sea. 

* * * 

Wrap  her,  O Fog!  in  gown  a?id  hood 
Of  her  Franciscan  Brotherhood. 

■$£  *$£ 

So  shall  she,  cowled,  sit  and  pray 
Fill  morning  bears  her  sins  away. 

Then  rise,  O fleecy  Fog,  and  raise 
The  glory  of  her  coming  days ; 

Be  as  the ; cloud  that  flecks  the  seas 
Above  her  smoky  argosies. 

When  forms  familiar  shall  give  place 
To  stranger  speech  and  newer  face ; 
When  all  her  throes  and  anxious  fears 
Lie  hushed  in  the  repose  of  years ; 
When  Art  shall  raise  and  Culture  lift 
Fhe  sensual  joys  and  meaner  thrift. 
And  all  fulfilled  the  vision,  we 
Who  watch  and  wait  shall  never  see— 
Who,  in  the  morning  of  her  race. 
Foiled  fair  or  meanly  in  our  place— 
But,  yielding  to  the  common  lot. 

Lie  u?irecorded  and  forgot. 

— Bret  Harte. 


STREET  CAR  SYSTEMS 


opportunity  to  experiment  with  a municipally  concluded  road. 
As  franchises  expire  or  arrangements  with  present  interests  can 
be  made,  the  city  may  find  it  expedient  to  take  over  the  operation 
of  all  the  roads. 

The  obstacles  offered  by  the  many  and  abrupt  hills  of  San 
Francisco  have  been  surmounted  by  the  various  street  railway 
lines;  it  is  now  proposed  to  tunnel  through  the  hills,  in  order  to 
shorten  distances  and  afford  quicker  service. 

Five  tunnels  are  at  present  under  consideration.  The  legal 
difficulties  have  been  overcome  by  favorable  decisions  of  the  State 
Supreme  Court  and  the  necessary  funds  will  be  raised  by  distrid 
assessment.  The  Stockton  Street  tunnel  will  be  the  first  built. 
This  (conneding  as  it  will  the  center  of  the  city  with  North 
Beach  by  a few  minutes’  walk  or  ride)  will  enhance  the  value  of 
North  Beach  property  and  establish  a dired  line  from  the  heart 
of  the  hotel  distrid  to  the  Exposition  grounds  at  Harbor  View. 
A proposed  route  is  from  Stockton  and  Market  streets  along 
Stockton  to  Columbus  (formerly  Montgomery)  avenue,  along 
Columbus  avenue  to  North  Point  and  from  North  Point  to  the 
main  entrance  of  the  Exposition,  a seven  minutes’  ride  from  the 
shopping  center.  Ferry  boats  from  North  Beach  to  Marin  county 
will  bring  the  latter  region  into  much  quicker  communication 
with  the  city  than  is  at  present  possible. 

The  proposed  tunnel  on  Broadway  from  Mason  to  Larkin 
streets  would  form  a desirable  extension  of  the  line  through  the 
Stockton  Street  tunnel  and  permit  Pacific  Heights  and  Harbor 
View  to  be  reached  from  down  town  without  much  grade. 

A recommendation  of  Bion  Arnold  (the  noted  street-railway 
expert,  who  was  employed  by  the  city  to  examine  conditions 
here)  is  a tunnel  under  Fort  Mason  at  Beach  street,  to  enable 
freight  for  the  Exposition  to 
be  carried  into  the  grounds. 

If  this  tunnel  is  construded 
it  can  be  used  in  connedion 
with  the  projeded  belt  line 
around  the  city. 

A tunnel  is  projeded  in 
the  Western  Addition  for  a 


[57] 


g 

I 1 ^ 

-IIJULAA 


■HBMH 

Emporium  Building  and  a Market  Street  Safety  Station. 


iff 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

dired  cross-town  line  to  Har- 
borView.  Marsden  Manson, 
the  City  Engineer,  recom- 
mends Fillmore  street  as  the 
route.  He  also  recommends 
that  all  the  buildings  on  Fill- 
more street  between  Sutter 
and  Bush  be  set  back  one 
hundred  feet  and  that,  as  the 

Looking  Down  Market  Street.  A Safety  Station.  portal  of  the  tunnel,  a build- 

ing a block  long  be  ereded;  the  first  floor  to  be  occupied  by 
markets,  the  second  by  an  auditorium,  and  a roof  garden  above, 
thus  affording  a revenue— an  ambitious  projed,  but  one  which,  if 
carried  out,  will  be  a substantial  addition  to  the  city. 

A tunnel  through  Twin  Peaks  is  pradically  certain,  to  ex- 
tend Market  street  to  the  ocean  and  to  open  up  the  territory 
west  of  Twin  Peaks  for  homes.  It  will  begin  at  Haight  and 
Market  streets.  In  connedion  with  this  tunnel  there  is  proposed 
a subway  to  the  Ferry  Building,  which  would  afford  a much- 
needed  solution  of  the  difficulties  caused  by  the  frequent  con- 
gestion of  cars  on  lower  Market  street.  A subway  under  lower 
Mission  street  and  interseding  cross-town  subways  will  also 
undoubtedly  be  accomplished  in  time. 

Second-floor  exits  from  the  Ferry  Building,  over  the  Em- 
barcadero  to  Market  street,  are  contemplated,  for  the  handling 
of  ferry-boat  crowds  with  greater  ease  and  dispatch. 

A belt  line,  starting  from  the  Ferry  Building  and  encircling 
the  city,  is  another  plan  of  extension.  It  is  also  designed  to  meet 
the  demand  for  quicker  and  better  transportation  down  the  pen- 
insula. All  of  these  projeds  will  probably  carried  out  before  1 91 5. 

Most  of  the  street  car  lines  of  the  city  lead  diredly  to  the 
Ferry  Building  at  the  foot  of  Market  street.  The  few  that  do 
not  (with  one  exception,  the  Geary  street  line)  transfer  their  pas- 
sengers to  the  ferry  lines;  so  that,  conversely,  all  parts  of  the 
city  may  be  easily  reached  from  the  ferries.  Market  street  at  the 
ferries  may  be  likened  to  the  handle  of  a fan,  whence  radiate  to 
the  north,  west  and  south,  like  the  sticks  of  a fan,  the  various 
lines.  All  these  lines  but  one  are  a part  of  the  United  Railroads 


[58] 


STREET  CAR  SYSTEMS 

system.  The  Market  Street  lines  pass  around  the  inner  or  outer 
loop  direCtly  in  front  of  the  Ferry  tower.  These  go  out  Market 
street,  all  passing  the  Palace  Hotel  and  the  most  important  bus- 
iness se&ion,  turning  to  the  west  and  south  at  various  points,  and 
connecting  with  cross-town  lines.  It  should  be  noted  that  all 
the  streets  north  of  Market  begin  at  Market  and  run  to  the 
west  or  north  with  Market  street  as  a base,  while  south  of 
Market  the  streets  are  parallel  to  it  or  at  right  angles. 

Just  north  of  the  center  of  the  Ferry  Building  is  the  Sacra- 
mento Street  line,  which  goes  west  on  Sacramento  street  through 
Chinatown  to  the  western  part  of  the  city,  returning  on  Clay 
street  and  passing  Portsmouth  Square. 

The  Union  Street  line  also  starts  near  the  northern  wing  of 
the  Ferry  Building,  going  through  the  Italian  quarter  to  Harbor 
View  and  the  Presidio.  It  is  not  a part  of  the  United  Railroads 
systems,  and  transfers  only  with  Hyde  street,  Polk  and  Fillmore. 

Here  also  is  the  Broadway,  Kearny  and  Third  Street  line, 
which  winds  along  the  base  of  Telegraph  Hill  and  through  the 
Italian  quarter  into  the  northern  end  of  Kearny  street,  and  thence 
south  to  the  Third  and  Townsend  Street  (Southern  Pacific)  sta- 
tion. Though  the  station  can  thus  be  reached  from  the  ferries 
without  change,  one  can  go  in  less  time  by  taking  any  of  the 
Market  Street  cars  and  transferring  to  this  line  at  Third  and 
Market  streets. 

South  of  the  Market  Street  loop,  coming  in  at  right  angles 
to  it,  are  the  various  lines  of  the  territory  south  of  Market  street; 
the  Folsom  street,  Harrison,  Howard,  and  Mission  Street  lines, 
the  Bryant  and  Brannan  line, the  Guerrero  Street  and  Ingleside 
lines,  and  that  to  the  cemeteries. 

A Sight-Seeing  car  of  the  United  Railroads  leaves  the  loop 
in  front  of  the  Ferry  Build- 
ing twice  a day— at  io  A.  m. 
and  at  2:00  p.  m.  The  fare  is 
seventy-five  cents  for  a trip 
three  and  one-half  hours' 
long,  including  many  of  the 
interesting  sights  of  the  city 
and  admission  to  the  Sutro 

[59] 


A Sight-Seeing  Car  at  the  Ferries. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Baths  and  Museum.  A lecturer  accompanies  each  trip.  The 
United  Railroads  will  also  rent  sight-seeing  cars  for  trolley  parties, 
to  be  run  over  the  lines  of  its  system. 

San  Francisco  is  so  well  covered  by  the  network  of  lines 
of  the  United  Railways  that,  with  its  liberal  system  of  transfers, 
almost  any  part  of  the  city  may  be  easily  reached  by  street 
car  and  for  a five-cent  fare,  and  long  rides  taken  from  the  fer- 
ries to  the  ocean  and  suburban  districts.  The  ride  to  the  beach 
by  the  Cliff  House  line  on  Sutter  street  affords  views  of  the 
Golden  Gate  and  its  rocky  shores  which  can  be  obtained  in  no 
other  way. 

The  Parkside  line  connects  with  cars  marked  “20”  of  the 
Fourth  and  Ellis  Street  line  at  Lincoln  Way  (formerly  H street) 
and  Twentieth  avenue.  It  runs  south  on  Twentieth  avenue  to 
T street  and  out  T street  to  Thirty-fifth  avenue,  where  transfers 
are  given  to  the  Mission  line  which  extends  to  the  ocean.  Both 
lines  afford  many  glimpses  of  the  surf  between  the  lupine-clothed 
sand  dunes. 

Besides  the  lines  of  the  United  Railroads  there  are  several 
independent  lines. 

The  California  Street  line  starts  at  Market  street,  one  block 
from  the  Ferry  Building  and,  passing  the  edge  of  Chinatown  and 
the  Fairmont  Hotel,  goes  over  Nob  Hill  to  the  western  part  of 
the  city.  It  conne&s  only  with  the  Hyde  and  O’Farrell  line 
and  with  one  at  its  western  terminus  going  to  the  beach. 

The  Geary  Street  line,  municipally  owned,  is  now  newly 
equipped.  It  begins  at  Market  and  Geary  streets  and  runs  west 
to  Golden  Gate  Park;  but  will  probably  soon  extend  from  the 
ferries  to  the  ocean. 

The  Union  Street  line,  which  runs  from  the  ferries  to  the 

Presidio  Reservation,  trans- 
fers to  Hyde  Street,  to  Polk 
Street  and  to  the  Fillmore 
Street  lines. 

The  Hyde  Street  and 
O’Farrell  line  transfers  to 
the  California  Street  and  the 
Union  Street  lines. 

[6°] 

Land’s  End,  on  Cliff  Car  Line — Mile  Rock  Lighthouse. 


The  Stadium,  Golden  Gate  Park,  Where  President  Taft  Broke  Ground  for  the  P anama-P acidc 
1 nternational  Exposition. 

Chapter  Five  • Golden  Gate  Park 

Golden  gate  park  is  one  of  the  glories  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. It  extends  from  near  the  center  of  the  city 
■ three  miles  westward  to  the  ocean,  with  a strip  one 
block  wide  (called  the  Panhandle)  running  from  its 
eastern  border  one-half  mile  further  into  the  city.  It 
contains  1013  acres,  of  which  more  than  400  are  in  thorough 
cultivation,  the  rest  planted  with  handsome  trees,  adorned  with 
lakes  and  laid  out  with  drives,  bridle  paths  and  walks.  It  is  one 
of  the  great  parks  of  the  world,  ranking  with  Central  Park  of 
New  York,  Fairmount  of  Philadelphia  and  the  Bois  de  Boulogne 
of  Paris. 

In  1864  the  agitation  for  a large  public  park  began.  Squat- 
ters and  claimants  from  Devisadero  street  to  the  ocean  were 
asked  to  give  a portion  of  the  land  they  claimed  in  exchange  for 
a clear  title  from  the  city  to  the  remainder,  the  city  being  the 
rightful  owner  to  four  square  leagues  of  land  in  the  Pueblo  of 
San  Francisco.  The  squatters  and  claimants  agreed  upon  ten 
per  cent.  The  land  was  appraised  and  an  assessment  of  ten  per 
cent,  upon  the  whole  was  sufficient  to  pay  for  the  land  taken  for 
park  purposes.  The  Legislature  of  1869-70  passed  the  bill  which 
settled  these  matters.  To  Justice  Stephen  J.  Field  is  mainly  due 
the  credit  for  legislative  work  which  resulted  in  the  creation  of 
Golden  Gate  Park.  Given  the  land,  to  create  these  charming 
vistas  of  lawn,  trees  and  shrubbery,  these  carpets  of  flowers,  and 
shimmering  lakes,  all  from  a waste  of  shifting  sand  dunes,  was 
an  achievement  of  note.  A fortunate  climate,  plenty  of  water, 
gifts  from  generous  citizens,  broad-minded  commissioners  and  a 
park  superintendent  of  taste  and  skill  have  all  combined  to  bring 

[61] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

about  a result  which  is  a joy  to  San  Franciscans  and  to  the  tem- 
porary dwellers  within  their  gates.  Trees  have  grown  with  great 
rapidity  to  noble  size,  flowers  flourish  unchecked  by  frost,  while 
lawns  are  green  and  beautiful  throughout  the  year.  No  signs, 
“keep  off  the  grass,”  offend  the  eye  and  mar  the  pleasure  of 
those  who  like  to  feel  the  springing  turf  beneath  their  feet; 
yet  no  more  beautiful  grass  is  found  anywhere.  Children  romp 
unchecked  over  the  lawns,  the  ball  fields  scarcely  show  on  their 
green  surface  a trace  of  their  daily  use,  and  even  the  exquisite, 
velvety  surface  of  the  bowling  green,  as  level  as  a billiard  table, 
is  not  marred  by  the  sport  to  which  it  is  dedicated. 

In  every  way  possible  this  park  is  made  to  minister  to  the 
health  and  pleasure  of  the  people.  Means  are  afforded  for  all 
sorts  of  outdoor  sports  for  children,  youths  and  adults,  and  they 
are  all  there  making  use  of  them.  For  the  children  there  are 
swings  and  teeters  and  toboggan  slides,  rides  in  the  goat-carts  or 
on  the  donkeys  or  on  the  weird  animals  of  the  merry-go-round. 
For  the  older  ones  there  are  baseball  fields  for  different  ages, 
croquet,  tennis  courts  without  number  (including  secluded  ones 
for  beginners),  boating  on  Stow  Lake  and  a lake  for  wading  and 
bathing.  For  the  adults  there  is  on  Stow  Lake  a fly-casting 
pier;  there  is  Spreckels  Lake  for  the  sailing  of  model  yachts,  the 
bowling  green  and  walks  and  drives. 

Every  Sunday  and  legal  holiday  (when  not  prevented  by 
rain,  and  such  days  are  surprisingly  few)  an  excellent  band  of 
fifty  pieces  plays  in  the  massive  stone  Temple  of  Music,  the  gift 
of  Claus  Spreckels.  Facing  it  are  open-air  seats  for  twenty  thou- 
sand, shaded  in  summer  by  elms  and  maples  planted  for  the 
purpose. 

At  the  children’s  playground,  in  a handsome  stone  building 

(the  gift  of  William  Sharon), 
is  a restaurant  where  lunch- 
eons are  served  at  reasonable 
prices,  the  aim  being  not  to 
make  money  but  to  accom- 
modate the  public.  Here  are 
good  milk,  boiled  rice  and 
other  simple  dishes  for  the 

[62] 


Swings  of  Children’ s Playground,  and 
Restaurant  Building. 


Where  now  are  the  dunes. 

The  tawny  half-moons 

Of  the  sands  ever  drifting. 

Of  the  sand's,  ever  sifting 
By  the  shore , and  the  sweep 
Of  the  sea  in  its  sleep? 

* * * 

Oh,  wonderful  land,  where  the  turbulent  sand 
Will  burst  into  bloom  at  the  touch  of  a hand. 
And  a desert  baptized 
Prove  an  Eden  disguised. 

— Benjamin  F.  Taylor. 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

babies,  while  for  their  elders  a more  varied  bill  of  fare  includes 
broths,  sandwiches,  salads,  tea,  coffee,  ice  cream  and  cake-all 
well  served  in  a pretty  tile-lined  room.  If  visiting  parties  take 
their  own  lunches  and  wish  to  eat  picnic  fashion,  coffee,  tea,  milk 
or  cocoa  on  a tray,  with  cups  and  saucers,  can  be  had  for  a small 
sum  from  a counter  below  stairs.  The  tray  may  be  taken  any- 
where in  the  grounds  about,  to  be  returned  when  the  picnic  is 
over.  Sandwiches,  cake  and  ice  cream  can  also  be  bought  here 
to  supplement  one’s  own  luncheon.  If  the  weather  prove  too 
cool  for  pleasant  picnicking  in  the  open  ground,  there  are  tables 
and  chairs  provided  under  shelter. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  park  is  the  beautiful  Japanese 
Tea  Garden.  There  is  no  entrance  fee  and  one  may  wander 
through  it  at  will.  Here  also  small  parties  may  eat  their  picnic 
luncheon  on  tables  provided  for  the  purpose  and  finish  if  they 
choose  with  delicious  tea  served  in  Japanese  fashion;  or  tired 
sight-seers  may  refresh  themselves  at  any  time  with  this  cheering 
beverage  accompanied  by  fascinating  rice  wafers,  served  for  ten 
cents  by  a Japanese  family.  If  you  choose  you  may  sit  in  the 
tea  house  embowered  in  wistaria  and  drop  crumbs  for  the  fat 
gold  and  silver  fish  swimming  in  the  little  stream  below,  or  at  a 
teak-wood  table  in  a ferny  nook  just  outside  where  the  birds 
will  come  without  fear  and  almost  peck  from  your  hand. 

In  the  garden  is  a real  Japanese  house,  open  for  inspection. 
The  garden  is  truly  Japanese,  with  its  high,  half-round  bridges,  a 
tiny  stream  and  plashing  waterfall,  porcelain  and  carved-stone 
lanterns  and  many  beautiful  Japanese  plants  and  curious  dwarfed 
shrubs.  In  the  early  spring  the  garden  is  beautiful  with  azaleas, 
and  the  weeping  cherry  trees  are  like  a dream  of  old  Japan. 
Later,  wistaria  and  iris  add  their  oriental  charm. 

The  Museum. -Close 
by  stands  the  Museum  Build- 
ing, a memorial  of  the  Mid- 
winter Fair  of  1 894.  Nowin 
its  eighteenth  year,  it  is  stead- 
ily increasing  in  popularity. 

The  attendance  at  present 
exceeds  that  of  similar  insti- 

[63] 


In  the  Japanese  Tea  Garden — Stone  and 
Porcelain  Lanterns. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

tutions  in  the  United  States, 
more  than  half  a million  visi- 
tors being  annually  registered 
by  its  turnstiles.  It  is  open 
daily  from  io  a.  m.  to  4 p.  m., 
and  on  Sundays  and  holidays 
until  5 p.m.  DireCtly  before 
the  building  stands  a colossal 
vase  designed  by  Gustave 
The  Temple  of  Music.  Dore.  On  either  side  is  an 

ancient  cannon  from  the  Philippines,  trophies  of  the  Spanish 
war.  Flanking  the  steps  are  two  sphinxes.  Standing  near,  one 
day,  the  writer  overheard  the  serious  comments  of  two  Scotch 
youths  from  British  Columbia.  After  studying  the  figures  care- 
fully from  every  side  the  conclusion  was, “There’s  nae  sic  a beast 
as  that  nowadays,  is  there,  Jamie?” 

The  Museum  houses  about  eighty-nine  thousand  speci- 
mens, valued  at  over  a million  dollars.  About  half  are  in  the 
Natural  History  Department  on  the  second  floor.  The  exhibits 
on  the  main  floor  comprise  rooms  of  Colonial  relics,  pi&ures  of 
the  California  missions,  relics  of  early  California  days,  relics  from 
the  old  Russian  settlement  at  Fort  Ross,  Indian  remains,  a fine 
collection  of  Indian  baskets  and  bead-work,  South  Sea  Island 
specimens,  rooms  of  ceramics,  laces,  old  brocades,  embroideries 
and  tapestries,  collections  of  miniatures,  watches,  snuff-boxes, 
gems,  armor  and  weapons,  a room  of  Napoleon  relics,  and  rooms 
of  fine  statuary  and  paintings,  including  a gallery  for  local  artists 
(of  which  San  Francisco  has  a notable  number).  Additions  to  the 
Museum  are  frequent,  both  by  gift  and  purchase. 

Temple  of  Music. -Near  the  Museum,  across  the  drive- 
way, is  Concert  Valley,  with  its  seats  for  twenty  thousand.  At  its 
head  stands  the  beautiful  Temple  of  Music,  the  gift  of  Claus 
Spreckels.  It  was  built  of  Colusa  sandstone,  at  a cost  of  $ 75,000. 
The  design  is  Italian  Renaissance.  The  music  stand  itself  has  a 
frontage  of  fifty-five  feet  and  a height  of  seventy  feet,  flanked  on 
either  side  by  Corinthian  columns.  It  has  ample  capacity  for 
one  hundred  musicians.  Extending  on  each  side  are  colonnades 
fifty-two  feet  long  by  fifteen  feet  high,  supported  by  sixteen 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

Ionic  columns,  the  whole  forming  a beautiful  and  noble  struc- 
ture, harmonizing  with  the  landscape  in  which  it  is  set. 

Academy  of  Sciences  BuiLDiNG.-Just  across  Concert  Val- 
ley is  soon  to  be  erected  a fine,  costly  building  for  the  California 
Academy  of  Sciences,  to  house  its  notable  scientific  collections 
of  birds,  mammals,  reptiles,  inseCts  and  other  departments  of 
natural  history.  At  a late  city  election,  a charter  amendment  was 
passed  giving  permission  to  place  the  building  in  the  park.  The 
former  collections  of  the  Academy,  valued  at  half  a million  dol- 
lars, having  been  totally  lost  by  the  fire  of  April,  1906,  it  seemed 
wise  to  place  the  new  collections  beyond  the  possible  reach  of 
fire.  The  building,  of  classic  design,  to  cost  when  complete  prob- 
ably over  half  a million  dollars,  will  be  a most  valuable  addition 
to  the  park.  Only  one  seCtion,  the  left  wing,  costing  approxi- 
mately $125,000,  will  be  ereCted  at  this  time,  the  rest  to  follow 
when  needed.  Mr.  Leverett  Mills  Loomis,  the  director  of  the 
Museum,  and  the  curators  of  the  various  departments  have  al- 
ready, in  the  six  years  since  the  fire,  by  their  zeal  and  indefatig- 
able labors,  gathered  together  a collection  exceeding  in  scientific 
value  the  old  one.  A few  months  after  the  fire  (most  fortunately 
after  instead  of  before)  an  expedition  sent  by  the  Academy  to  the 
Galapagos  Islands,  returned-a  veritable  treasure  ship— bringing 
thousands  of  unique  and  valuable  specimens  in  every  department. 

One  of  the  notable  features  of  the  new  Academy  will  be  the 
Habitat  groups  of  birds  and  mammals-each  group  arranged  in  a 
characteristic  haunt  or  habitat  of  its  species,  the  realistic  fore- 
ground being  so  blended  into  the  painted  background  that  the 
division  line  is  indistinguishable,  and  the  effeCt  that  of  nature 
itself.  The  backgrounds  are  painted  by  genuine  artists  from 
careful  studies  from  nature,  while  the  mounting  and  arrangement 
are  by  a man  in  whom  is  hap- 
pily blended  artistic  genius 
and  a thorough  knowledge 
of  natural  history. 

The  Conservatory.— 

In  1877  a committee  of  our 
generous  citizens  purchased 
from  the  Lick  Estate  the 


The  Conservatory. 


—8— 

Tree  Ferns,  Nearly  Opposite  the  Conservatory. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

materials  which  James  Lick 
in  his  lifetime  had  prepared 
for  the  ereCtion  at  his  house 
in  San  Jose  of  two  large 
conservatories,  modeled  after 
those  of  Kew  Gardens,  Lon- 
don. These  materials  were 
offered  to  the  public  as  a 
gift,  for  the  erection  of  con- 
servatories in  Golden  Gate 
,000  appropriated  by  the 


Park.  The  gift  was  accepted  and 
Legislature  for  the  ereCtion  of  the  buildings  in  Conservatory 
Valley.  These  buildings  were  subsequently  destroyed  by  fire, 
but  through  the  generosity  of  Charles  Crocker  were  replaced  by 
the  present  structure,  which  contains  a wonderful  collection  of 
plants  from  all  parts  of  the  world-some  remarkable  for  beauty, 
others  for  strangeness  and  rarity.  There  are  ferns  in  great  vari- 
ety and  beauty,  including  the  strange  staghorn  fern,  a large  col- 
lection of  orchids,  the  Holy  Ghost  flower,  like  a tiny  white  dove, 
the  Bird  of  Paradise  flower,  palms  of  many  sorts  and  beautiful 
water  lilies  and  lotuses.  In  one  room  is  a shifting  exhibition  of 
undreamed-of  varieties  of  some  one  plant  prized  for  beauty  of 
blossom.  At  one  time  it  is  a marvelous  collection  of  calceolarias, 
at  another  begonias,  again  cinnerarias— their  usual  harsh  purples 
and  crimson  relieved  by  exquisite  pink  and  white  and  pale  porce- 
lain blue.  The  flowers  in  the  beds  before  the  conservatory  are 
changed  from  time  to  time  as  the  season  demands,  spring  bulbs 
giving  place  to  summer  annuals,  to  be  replaced  later  by  gorge- 
ous dahlias  and  carpets  of  pansies.  Just  east  of  the  conservatory 
is  the  Arizona  garden,  where  cacti  in  great  variety  flourish,  and 
tall  century  plants  lift  high  their  infrequent  blooms. 

The  whole  park  abounds  in  rare  trees  and  shrubs.  Between 
Ninth  and  Fifteenth  avenues,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  park, 
is  an  arboretum  where  trees  from  every  quarter  of  the  globe  may 
be  found.  There  are  several  plantations  of  tree  ferns,  and  near 
the  bear-pit  a pretty  dell  filled  with  smaller  varieties.  A tropical 
touch  is  given  here  and  there  by  a variety  of  palms,  while  every- 
where needed  for  color  flowers  are  massed  effectively. 


[66] 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

The  Aviary.— Crowning  a hill  across  the  driveway  from  the 
conservatory  is  the  aviary,  built  in  1890.  It  shelters  many  beau- 
tiful and  interesting  birds,  from  the  tiny  strawberry  bird  to  the 
great  eagles  and  condors.  There  are  parrots,  cockatoos,  macaws 
and  parroquets;  trim  Java  sparrows,  looking  like  little  ministers 
in  their  high  choker  collars  and  grave  gray  coats;  pigeons  and 
doves  of  many  varieties-pouters  and  fantails,  ring  doves,  mourn- 
ing doves  whose  plaintive  notes  moan  a sad  undertone  to  the 
cheerful  songs  of  the  canaries,  and  (most  curious  of  all)  the  bleed- 
ing heart  dove  with  the  seeming  bullet  hole  and  splotch  of  blood 
on  his  breast,  so  life-like  (or,  rather,  death-like)  that  one  wonders 
to  see  him  running  about  pecking  his  food.  There  is  a beautiful 
collection  of  pheasants  in  the  enclosures  just  outside  the  aviary 
proper,  each  variety  more  wonderfully  and  beautifully  marked 
than  its  neighbor.  They  almost  surpass  the  peacock  in  beauty. 
For  several  years  a lovely  white  peacock  strutted  about  in  the 
enclosure  and  spread  his  ghostly  tail-pure  white,  save  the  eyes, 
which  were  pale,  misty,  gray-green  simulacra  of  the  brilliant, 
metallic  tints  of  his  more  common  brothers.  Of  the  latter  there 
are  many  in  the  park,  wandering  at  their  own  sweet  will.  Coveys 
of  valley  or  mountain  quail  may  cross  one’s  path  at  any  time. 
The  different  lakes  of  the  park  abound  in  black  and  white  swan 
and  varieties  of  ducks  and  geese,  nearly  all  so  tame  that  they 
hasten  to  the  shore  to  be  fed  by  the  bystanders. 

Animals. -Animal  life  is  represented  by  many  interesting 
specimens.  There  are  several  varieties  of  deer,  including  the 
spotted  deer  of  Hawaii,  donated  by  Mr.  Bishop.  These,  with 
antelope,  and  kangaroo  from  Australia,  are  just  west  of  the  chil- 
dren’s playground  and  bowling  green. 

The  moose,  brought  from  Alaska  when  young,  are  near  the 
enclosure  for  the  deer. 

The  buffalo  paddock  is 
southwest  of  Aviary  Hill, 
between  it  and  the  deer  park. 

Another  herd  of  buffalo  is 
kept  near  the  most  northern 
and  largest  of  the  Chain  of 
Lakes.  There  are  twenty-five 


A Few  of  the  Buffalo. 


■ 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

in  this  herd,  all  but  three  born  in  the  park  and  attaining  normal 
size  and  vigor. 

The  bear  enclosures  are  south  of  the  Middle  Drive,  near 
the  buffalo  paddock.  Monarch,  an  enormous  grizzly  bear  (long 
said  to  have  been  the  finest  specimen  of  valley  grizzly  in  the 
world),  has  recently  died,  but  several  of  his  cubs,  now  nearly  as 
large  as  himself,  survive.  He  was  given  to  the  park  by  W.  R. 
Hearst.  His  mate  was  a mountain  grizzly.  There  are  also  in  the 
bear-pits  several  fine  specimens  of  black  and  cinnamon  bears. 
They  seem  fond  of  the  water,  and  it  is  an  amusing  sight  to  watch 
them  rolling  and  tumbling  in  their  big  bathing  tanks. 

The  elk  glen  is  a little  west  of  Stow  Lake,  about  in  the 
middle  of  the  park,  just  north  of  the  South  Drive.  Of  the  sev- 
enty-five elk,  all  were  born  in  the  park  except  the  original  pair, 
which  was  the  gift  of  Alvinza  Hayward. 

Lakes.— The  park  abounds  in  lakes,  all  artificial.  Stow  Lake 
is  the  most  important  and  is  a blended  triumph  of  engineer’s 
skill  and  landscape  gardener’s  art.  The  idea  of  the  lake  and  the 
beautiful  Huntington  Falls  was  conceived  by  W.  W.  Stow,  a 
former  park  commissioner.  He  enlisted  the  financial  support  of 
the  late  Collis  P.  Huntington  in  the  carrying  out  of  his  plan. 
So  skilfully  have  art  and  nature  been  mingled  that  the  former  is 
difficult  to  deteft.  The  lake  surrounds  the  base  of  Strawberry 
Hill.  A driveway,  from  which  are  obtained  beautiful  views  of 
the  park,  glimpses  of  the  Marin  County  hills  and  of  the  dis- 
tant ocean,  winds  around  the  lake,  and  there  are  walks  on  both 
sides.  The  lake  can  be  crossed  by  either  of  two  bridges,  contin- 
uing the  drive  or  walk  to  the  top  of  the  hill.  This  was  once 
crowned  by  an  observatory  in  the  form  of  a coliseum,  the  gift 
of  a former  citizen,  Thomas  U.  Sweeny.  The  stru&ure  was  of 

concrete.  Its  upper  gallery, 
sheltered  by  glass,  afforded  a 
splendid  panoramic  view  of 
the  city,  the  Golden  Gate, 
the  western  sand-dunes  and 
the  ocean,  embracing  the  Far- 
allone  Islands,  twenty-seven 
miles  away,  if  the  day  were 

[68] 


A Bit  of  Stow  Lake. 


The  land  where  summers  never  cease 
Their  sunny  psalm  of  light  and  peace. 

Whose  moonlight , poured  for  years  untold , 
Has  drifted  down  in  dust  of  gold; 

Whose  morning  splendors s fallen  in  showers , 
Leave  ceaseless  sutirise  in  the  flowers. 

— From1  ‘ The  Hermitage,”  by  Edward  Rowland  Sill. 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

clear.  Now  a few  ruined  walls  bear  witness  to  the  severity  of  the 
earthquake  of  April  18,  1906.  Just  at  this  point  the  shock  was 
peculiarly  strong.  The  wire  cables  reinforcing  the  concrete  were 
snapped  in  two  like  rope.  Lacking  the  additional  height  of  the 
observatory,  the  view  is  at  present  only  obtained  in  glimpses 
through  the  trees.  Nevertheless,  on  a clear  day  one  is  well  repaid 
for  walking  or  driving  up  the  hill.  On  Sundays  and  holidays  Hun- 
tington Falls  dashes  in  a series  of  cascades  down  the  side  of  the 
hill  into  the  lake.  A bridge  crosses  the  falls  near  the  summit  and 
is  a fine  vantage  point  from  which  to  view  the  rushing  water. 

Rocky  islands  clothed  with  trees  and  shrubbery  add  to  the 
beauty  of  the  lake,  and  are  breeding  places  for  swan  and  other 
waterfowl,  all  so  tame  that  they  will  come  to  the  shore  and  eat 
from  one’s  hand. 

Near  the  Roman  bridge  on  the  northern  side  of  the  lake  is 
a boathouse  where  rowboats  may  be  obtained.  The  lake  is  quite 
large  enough,  and  the  scenery  about  it  quite  attractive  enough, 
to  make  a row  around  it  worth  while.  There  is  also  a pier  where 
disciples  of  Izaak  Walton  may  match  their  skill  in  fly-casting. 
Stow  Lake  is  also  the  central  source  of  the  park’s  irrigation 
system.  It  has  a capacity  of  25,000,000  gallons  of  water. 

From  the  roadway  around  the  hill,  near  the  Roman  bridge, 
a fine  view  of  prayer  book  cross  may  be  obtained.  (This  cross 
is  described  under  Monuments). 

Northwest  of  Stow  Lake,  a little  beyond  the  eminence  on 
which  stands  the  prayer  book  cross,  just  at  the  right  of  the  Main 
Drive,  is  Lloyd  Lake,  three  acres  in  area.  A footpath  encircles 
it.  Nestling  amidst  the  trees  and  shrubbery  on  one  of  its  banks 
stands  the  classic  doorway  of  the  A.  N.  Towne  residence  which 
once  crowned  Nob  Hill.  The  fire  of  April,  1906,  left  only  a bit 
of  wall  and  this  picturesque 
relic. 

Metson  Lake,  two  acres 
in  extent,  is  farther  to  the 
west,  at  the  left  of  the  Mid- 
dle Drive.  The  lake  also  is 
encircled  by  a well  shaded 
footpath. 

r69] 


atm 

“ Portals  of  the  Past 


HHI 

(see  picture  facing  page  50). 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Farther  west  and  near  the 
northern  boundary  of  the 
park,  between  Thirty-second 
and  Thirty-sixth  avenues,  at 
the  right  of  the  Main  Drive, 
is  Spreckels  Lake,  named  for 
Park  Commissioner  A.  B. 
Spreckels.  This  lake  covers 
seven  acres.  H ere  on  every 
pleasant  day  men  in  greater 
or  less  number  may  be  found  sailing  their  model  yachts  and  evi- 
dently enjoying  their  sport  as  much  as  the  small  boy  who  often 
trudges  delightedly  beside  “father”  with  his  own  tiny  craft.  The 
models  are  from  two  to  five  feet  long,  the  latter  with  masts  taller 
than  their  owners.  They  tack  or  sail  down  the  wind  quite  as  if 
manned  by  a crew.  Across  the  drive  from  the  lake,  near  the 
stadium,  is  the  club  house  where,  on  racks  arranged  for  them, 
are  dozens  of  these  little  boats. 

Still  further  west  is  the  Chain  of  Lakes.  These  lakes,  three 
in  number,  comprise  a chain  nearly  across  the  park  from  north 
to  south  between  Thirty- eighth  and  Forty-fourth  avenues.  They 
greatly  enhance  the  beauty  of  the  landscape  and,  with  their  curv- 
ing shores  and  pretty  islands,  seem  wholly  the  work  of  nature, 
so  cunningly  has  the  hand  of  man  been  concealed.  Each  lake  is 
encircled  by  a driveway  thirty  feet  wide.  The  islands  are  planted 
with  trees,  with  an  undergrowth  of  rhododendron,  ferns  and  iris, 
while  native  shrubs  such  as  ceanothus,  Romneya  Coulterii  and 
rhododendrons  cover  the  eastern  slope  of  the  northernmost  and 
largest  lake.  The  shores  of  the  middle  lake  (which  lies  between 
the  Main  Drive  and  the  Speed  Road)  are  wooded  with  cypress, 
pine  and  eucalyptus.  The  shores  of  the  smallest  lake  are  planted 
with  deciduous  trees. 

Lake  Alvord  is  a tiny  lake  (named  for  Park  Commissioner 
William  Alvord)  near  the  Haight  Street  entrance  of  the  park. 
It  nestles  in  a pretty  hollow,  surrounded  by  ferns,  pampas  grass, 
rocks  and  shrubbery.  A fountain  plays  in  the  center,  and  graceful 
swan  add  to  its  decorative  effe<5t.  A small  lake  near  the  stadium 
is  used  as  a swimming  pool. 

[7°] 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

Monuments. -There  are  numerous  monuments  and  statues 
in  stone,  bronze  and  marble  in  the  park.  The  most  striking  of 
these  is  the  prayer  book  cross,  just  north  of  Strawberry  Hill,  at 
the  right  of  the  Main  Drive.  It  was  designed  by  Ernest  Cox- 
head,  and  was  modeled  after  the  ancient  Runic  crosses  in  Iona, 
Scotland.  Its  height  is  fifty-seven  feet,  including  base.  It  is  built 
of  Colusa  sandstone,  handsomely  carved,  with  inscriptions.  It 
was  the  gift  of  George  W.  Childs,  of  Philadelphia,  and  eredted 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Episcopal  Diocese  to  commemorate 
the  “first  Christian  service  of  the  English  tongue  on  our  coast,” 
the  “first  use  of  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer  in  our  country” 
and  “one  of  the  first  recorded  missionary  prayers  on  our  conti- 
nent.” The  above  quotations  are  from  the  inscription  on  the  face 
of  the  cross,  followed  by  “Soli  Deo  sit  semper  gloria.”  That  on 
the  other  side  reads:  “Presented  to  Golden  Gate  Park  at  the 
opening  of  the  Midwinter  Fair,  January  i,  a.  d.  1894,  as  a me- 
morial of  the  service  held  on  the  shore  of  Drake’s  Bay  about  St. 
John  Baptist’s  Day,  June  24,  Anno  Domini  1587,  by  Francis 
Fletcher,  priest  of  the  Church  of  England,  chaplain  of  Sir  Fran- 
cis Drake,  chronicler  of  the  service.” 

The  monument  to  Francis  Scott  Key,  author  of  the  “Star 
Spangled  Banner,”  was  designed  by  the  late  W.  W.  Story  and 
given  to  the  Park  by  the  late  James  Lick.  The  cost  of  the  mon- 
ument was  $60,000.  In  1874  the  hill  on  the  northeast  corner  of 
the  park  was  by  order  of  the  board  of  commissioners  named 
Mount  Lick,  in  commemoration  of  this  gift. 

Diredtly  in  front  of  the  museum  a fine  bronze  drinking 
fountain,  the  Wine  Press,  commemorates  the  Midwinter  Fair. 
It  is  by  Thomas  Shields  Clarke. 

There  is  a statue  of  Father  Junipero  Serra,  eredted  by  the 
Native  Sons  of  the  Golden 
West,  one  of  Goethe  and 
Schiller, one  of  Thomas  Starr 
King,  of  Robert  Burns,  of 
Garfield,  Halleck  and  Grant; 
and  at  the  park  panhandle 
entrance  a bronze  figure  dedi- 
cated to  PresidentMcKinley. 

[71] 


* 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

The  Stadium  and  Other 
Athletic  FiELDs.-Between 
Thirtieth  and  Thirty-sixth 
avenues,  midway  between  the 
north  and  south  boundaries, 
the  stadium— a noble,  great, 
grassy  arena— occupies  thirty 
acres  of  the  park.  It  is  easily 
reached  by  the  “Beach”  car 
of  the  McAllister  Street  line, 
through  an  entrance  near  Spreckels  Lake,  at  Thirty-sixth  ave- 
nue. It  can  also  be  reached  from  the  car  line  on  the  southern 
boundary,  but  the  walk  is  a little  longer.  It  was  designed  by 
Superintendent  John  McLaren  and  Commissioner  A.  B.  Spreck- 
els. A grassy  terrace,  ten  feet  high  and  thirty  feet  wide,  sloping 
to  the  center,  surrounds  it.  This  will  accommodate  60,000  spec- 
tators, while  the  grandstand  will  add  40,000  more  to  the  number. 
A trotting  track  sixty  feet  wide  encircles  it.  The  entrances  are 
through  tunnels  under  the  track.  At  the  base  of  the  terrace  is  a 
footpath;  within  this,  a bicycle  track.  Near  the  eastern  end  is  a 
quarter-mile  cinder  track.  Within  this  are  spaces  for  vaulting, 
jumping  and  hammer  throwing.  A basket-ball  court  and  six 
football  fields  find  room  in  the  great  arena. 

On  O&ober  14,  1911,  a typically  glorious  California  day, 
President  Taft,  in  the  presence  of  nearly  100,000  people,  broke 
ground  in  the  stadium  for  the  great  Panama-Pacific  Exposition. 
The  completion  and  adornment  of  the  stadium  in  an  appropriate 
manner  is  a part  of  the  plan  of  the  Exposition  managers. 

Near  Seventh  avenue  and  Lincoln  Way,  on  the  southern 
side  of  the  park,  are  nine  baseball  fields.  There  is  a field  for 
younger  boys  between  Lake  Alvord  and  the  children's  play- 
ground. The  bowling  green  is  west  of  the  walk  leading  down  from 
the  restaurant,  sheltered,  and  partly  concealed  by  shrubbery. 

A little  to  the  north  is  the  croquet  ground,  with  the  tennis 
courts  just  beyond,  half-way  between  the  children’s  playground 
and  the  conservatory. 

TheDutch  Windmills  and  ParkWater  Supply.— Golden 
Gate  Park  has  its  own  independent  water  supply.  From  a system 

[72] 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

of  wells  and  a pumping  plant  a supply  of  1,500,000  gallons  is 
obtained  at  a cost  of  two  cents  per  thousand  gallons.  From  this 
source  comes  the  water  that  flows  over  Huntington  Falls  into 
Stow  Lake  and  thence,  by  gravitation,  moistens  the  eastern  and 
most  highly  cultivated  area  of  the  park. 

A greater  supply  being  needed  for  the  newer  lakes  and 
middle  and  western  divisions  of  the  park,  Commissioners  Reu- 
ben H.  Lloyd  and  A.  B.  Spreckels  conceived  the  idea  that  wells 
might  be  sunk  and  the  winds  used  as  motive  power  for  pumping 
the  water  to  the  level  required.  Test  wells  furnishing  evidence 
that  plenty  of  water  was  available,  and  it  being  thought  that  a 
Dutch  windmill  would  add  a pidturesque  feature  to  the  scenery, 
as  well  as  serve  a utilitarian  purpose,  one  was  constructed  near 
the  northwest  corner  of  the  park,  at  a cost  of  $25,000.  The  pump- 
ing capacity  is  30,000  gallons  an  hour,  furnishing  a never-failing 
supply  at  a low  cost. 

Later,  through  the  generosity  of  Samuel  G.  Murphy,  a 
second  windmill  was  built  near  the  southwest  corner.  It  furnishes 
40,000  gallons  an  hour,  and  is  the  largest  in  the  world. 

The  Gjoa.— Near  the  northern  windmill,  not  far  from  the 
Great  Highway,  nestled  in  a hollow  almost  surrounded  by  trees 
and  shrubbery,  is  the  Norwegian  sloop  Gjoa,  the  famous  vessel 
in  which  Captain  Roald  Amundsen  in  1908  made  his  historic 
northwest  passage  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  — a passage 
sought  for  since  the  time  of  Columbus.  Captain  Amundsen,  on 
behalf  of  Norway,  presented  the  sloop  to  the  city.  The  gift  was 
accepted  by  Mayor  Taylor  and  committed  to  the  care  of  the 
park  commissioners.  The  vessel  was  beached  south  of  the  Cliff 
House  and  moved  by  means  of  rollers  to  its  present  position. 

Beach  Chalet.— On  the  ocean  boulevard,  or  Great  High- 
way, and  nearly  opposite  the 
Gjoa,  is  the  Beach  Chalet,  a 
restaurant  and  resting  place 
belonging  to  the  park.  From 
its  western  balconies  is  a glo- 
rious view  of  the  ocean  and 
beach,  and,  in  clear  weather, 
of  the  Farralone  Islands. 


Beaching  the  Gjoa,  Preparatory  to  Drawing  Her  in. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Life  Saving  Station.— Just  at  the  northwestern  corner  of 
the  park  is  the  United  States  Life  Saving  Station.  Sometimes 
one  is  fortunate  enough  to  see  the  service  men  rolling  out  their 
boats  and  lauching  them  in  the  surf  for  pradlice. 

Commercial  Cable.— Near  the  western  end  of  the  park  is 
the  American  end  of  the  cable,  which  is  laid  by  way  of  Honolulu 
and  Midway  Island  to  the  Orient. 

Ways  of  Reaching  the  Park.— Several  lines  of  street 
cars  lead  to  the  various  park  entrances.  All  of  them  run  from 
the  Ferry  Building  or  from  Market  street.  The  Ellis  Street 
line,  Haight  street,  and  Hayes  and  Stanyan  line  (“21”)  lead  to 
the  main  entrances  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  park,  the  Ellis 
line  also  running  along  the  southern  boundary  to  the  ocean,  past 
the  entrances  which  lead  dire&ly  to  Huntington  Falls  and  Stow 
Lake,  the  stadium  and  the  Chain  of  Lakes.  The  Geary  Street, 
Turk  and  Eddy,  McAllister  and  Fulton  Street  lines  run  along 
the  northern  boundary  for  some  distance,  the  last-named  going 
to  the  ocean.  There  are  several  entrances  along  the  northern 
border-one  being  behind  the  conservatory,  another  dire&ly  be- 
hind the  museum,  another  near  the  tea  garden  and  one  at  Thirty- 
sixth  avenue  leading  to  Spreckels  Lake  and  the  stadium.  Pref- 
erence among  these  lines  depends  upon  the  time  one  wishes  to 
give  to  the  park  and  what  one  most  wishes  to  see.  At  the  eastern 
and  some  of  the  northern  entrances  are  carriages  and  automobiles 
for  hire.  If  time  is  limited,  and  the  visitor  wishes  to  see  all  the 
essential  features  of  the  park,  it  is  desirable  to  ride.  It  is  a beau- 
tiful drive  through  the  park  to  the  ocean  boulevard,  or  from  the 
park  to  the  Presidio,  through  the  Presidio  Parkway.  But  if  one 
has  the  time,  walking  is  the  best  method  of  seeing  the  park,  espe- 
cially the  eastern  end.  The  visitor  should  remember  that  the 

park  runs  substantially  east 
and  west.  Entering  at  its 
eastern  end  the  principal 
roads  lead  west  to  the  ocean, 
which  is  itswestern  boundary. 

A good  route  is  to  take 
the  Ellis  Street  line  to  Stan- 
yan street.  This  line  runs 


Looking  Down  the  Beach  From  the  Suiro  Veranda. 


The  Prayer  Book 
Cross.  To  Commemorate 
First  Church  of 
England  Service  on 
This  Coast.  Photograph 
by  E.  N.  Sewall. 


The  Cross  of  Golden  Gate. 

With  Westward  face  this  Great  Cross  tells 
Its  old,  undying  story 
Of  Faith  of  Ages , standing  sure , 

And  Bethlehem' s wondrous  glory . 

* * * 

Its  steadfast  front  to  seaward  speaks 
Of  History's  turning  pages  ; 

Of  hope  and  love  and  Christian  trust 
And  Empire's  marching  ages. 

— Char  la  S.  Aiken 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

along  the  panhandle  on  Oak  street.  At  the  entrance  to  the  pan- 
handle on  Baker  street  may  be  seen  a bronze  statue  by  Robert 
Aitken,  dedicated  to  President  McKinley.  The  ground  for  this 
statue  was  broken  by  President  Roosevelt  on  the  occasion  of  his 
visit  to  the  city  in  1903.  Leave  the  car  where  it  turns  on  Stan- 
yan  street  and  enter  the  park  where  the  roadway  from  the  pan- 
handle leads  into  it.  The  brownstone  building  at  the  right,  near 
this  entrance,  is  the  commissioners’  lodge.  A short  walk  brings 
one  to  Conservatory  Valley.  After  a tour  through  the  conserva- 
tory and  a glance  at  the  Arizona  garden  east  of  it,  return  to  the 
main  road  and  ascend  a slight  hill  across  the  road  on  the  left. 
Note  the  tree-ferns  near  the  base  of  the  hill.  A sign  points  to 
the  aviary.  After  visiting  that  and  the  pheasant  enclosures  out- 
side, return  to  the  main  road  and  follow  it  to  the  museum.  Oc- 
casional statues  commemorating  great  men  are  seen  on  the  way. 
Not  far  from  the  museum  at  the  left  is  one  of  Father  Junipero 
Serra,  the  founder  in  1776  of  the  Mission  of  St.  Francis  of 
Assisi,  which  was  the  beginning  of  San  Francisco.  From  the 
museum  (which  is  open  from  10  A.  m.  to  4 p.  m.  on  ordinary  days 
and  until  5 p.  m.  on  Sundays  and  holidays),  the  road  leads  past 
Concert  Valley  and  the  Temple  of  Music.  Just  beyond,  at  the 
right,  a massive  Japanese  gateway  announces  the  tea  garden, 
from  which  a few  moments’  climb  along  the  path  indicated  by 
signs  will  bring  one  to  Stow  Lake.  A bridge  leads  to  Strawberry 
Hill  and,  from  the  road  near  the  bridge,  the  prayer  book  cross 
is  seen  to  the  northwest. 

If  the  visitor  has  seen  enough  for  one  day,  there  are  two  ways 
out  from  here  without  going  back  to  the  eastern  entrance.  Part 
way  around  the  lake  a road  leads  out  to  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  park  and  a street  car  line  going  to  the  ocean  or  returning 
to  the  city.  Or,  one’s  steps 
may  be  retraced  as  far  as  the 
museum,  at  the  eastern  end 
of  which  a walk  leads  sharply 
down  under  a viadud,  and 
so  out  by  an  exit  on  the 
northern  boundary  to  several 
lines  into  the  city’s  center. 


The  Commissioner’s  Lodge. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

If  one  walk  it  is  best  to 
make  at  least  two  trips  if  pos- 
sible, taking  the  south  side 
of  the  park  on  another  day. 
Haight  street  or  Ellis  street 
cars  lead  to  the  Haight  Street 
entrance.  From  here,  a short 
walk  past  Lake  Alvord  leads 
to  the  children’s  playground. 
Lake  Alvord  and  Fountain.  H ere  are  the  donkeys,  goat- 

carts,  swings,  beautiful  lawns  and  the  Sharon  restaurant  build- 
ing. From  here  the  animal  enclosures  to  the  west  are  easy  to 
reach,  also  the  tennis  courts  opposite,  while  close  by,  behind  the 
shrubbery,  at  the  left  of  the  road  leading  down  from  the  Sharon 
building,  is  the  bowling  green. 

The  Middle  Drive,  north  of  Laveaga  dell,  leads  to  the 
buffalo  paddock,  a short  distance  away  on  the  north  side  of  the 
drive.  Opposite,  on  the  south  side,  are  the  bear  enclosures  and, 
very  near,  a path  leads  into  fern  dell. 

The  arboretum  is  just  west  of  the  animal  paddocks.  Fol- 
lowing the  South  Drive  around  the  arboretum.  Stow  Lake  is 
easily  reached  from  the  south  side;  or,  continuing  along  the  South 
Drive  a little  further  and  taking  either  the  Middle  or  South 
Drive  where  they  branch,  the  elk  glen  is  passed.  An  exit  may 
be  made  here  on  the  south  side  at  Nineteenth  avenue. 

If  all  must  be  done  in  one  trip  it  is  best  to  take  the  south 
side  first  and  cross  from  the  children’s  playground  or  the  animal 
paddocks,  through  the  tennis  courts,  to  the  Main  Drive  and  the 
conservatory  on  the  north  side,  visiting  the  aviary  nearly  oppo- 
site, and  then  following  the  Main  Drive  to  the  museum,  Temple 
of  Music,  tea  garden  and  Stow  Lake,  returning  to  the  exit  on 
the  northern  side,  back  of  the  tea  garden  or  museum. 

To  visit  the  lakes  or  stadium  requires  longer  walking  unless 
one  take  a street  car  at  one  of  the  northern  exits  and  re-enters 
the  park  at  a point  near  them— at  Thirty-sixth  avenue  for  the 
stadium  and  Spreckels  Lake. 

The  places  above  described  are  those  best  worth  the  time 
of  the  tourist  who  has  little  to  spare. 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

The  present  visitor  to  Golden  Gate  Park  can  scarcely  real- 
ize that  a few  years  ago  it  was  filled  with  tents  and  shacks,  giving 
shelter  to  the  homeless  of  the  city.  It  is  estimated  that  for  the 
few  days  after  the  great  fire  at  least  200,000  found  refuge  in  the 
Presidio,  Golden  Gate  Park  and  other  public  reservations  of  San 
Francisco.  Many  of  these  later  crossed  the  bay  and  scattered  to 
other  homes,  but  for  more  than  a year  at  least  30,000  were  cared 
for  in  the  different  parks.  The  camps  in  Golden  Gate  Park  were 
the  first  abandoned  as  the  work  of  concentration  progressed;  but 
for  seven  or  eight  months  the  open  spaces  were  filled  with  tents 
and  barracks,  wash  houses  and  bath  houses,  dining  rooms,  read- 
ing rooms,  a hospital,  depots  for  giving  out  supplies,  and  a school 
for  children.  Here  people  lived  and  died,  babies  were  born  and 
the  sick  cared  for;  here  children  romped  and  played  and  went 
to  school,  and  family  work  was  carried  on.  With  it  all,  so  little 
injury  was  done  that  by  the  summer  after  the  last  tent  was  re- 
moved no  trace  visible  to  the  public  remained  of  its  unwonted 
use.  All  San  Franciscans  who  partook  of  its  hospitable  shelter 
must  thenceforth  feel  a peculiar  love  for  Golden  Gate  Park. 

June  2,  1906,  was  the  most  memorable  Commencement 
Day  of  San  Francisco’s  existence— an  historic  day.  Nearly  all  the 
school  houses  of  the  city  having  been  destroyed,  commencement 
exercises  were  held  at  the  Temple  of  Music  in  the  park  and  here 
1,700  pupils  of  the  public  and  commercial  schools  of  the  city 
received  their  certificates  of  graduation,  after  speeches,  music  in 
chorus  and  by  the  band.  The  credit  for  suggesting  this  out-of- 
door  commencement  is  due  to  Professor  Henry  Morse  Stephens 
of  the  University  of  California. 

The  park  was  also  used  for  the  Fourth  of  July  celebration 
in  1906.  The  exercises  were  in  the  stadium,  and  consisted  of 
athletic  contests, interspersed 
with  music  by  the  Park  Band 
and  a great  chorus  of  school 
children— an  early  example  of 
a “sane”  Fourth. 

The  Great  Highway 
or  Ocean  BouLEVARD.-At 
the  western  end  of  the  park, 

[77] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

between  it  and  the  ocean,  is 
the  Great  Highway,  extend- 
ing south  along  the  Pacific 
from  the  Cliff  House  to  Lake 
Merced  or  the  San  Mateo 
County  line.  This  is  at  pres- 
ent a beautiful  driveway  for 
automobiles  or  carriages,  it 
making  a delightful  terminus 
of  a drive  through  the  park. 
It  is  proposed  by  the  commissioners  to  widen  the  highway  to  a 
uniform  breadth  of  250  feet.  Reinforced  concrete  piers  will  be 
sunk  close  together  in  the  sand  and  prote&ed  from  the  wash  of 
waves  by  rough  rubble  stone  at  their  bases.  On  the  top  of  the 
concrete  piers  will  be  an  Italian  balustrade  with  a footpath,  20 
feet  wide,  east  of  it.  Next  to  this  will  be  a driveway,  150  feet 
wide,  for  pleasure  vehicles  only.  A strip,  20  feet  wide,  planted 
with  trees  and  shrubs  will  separate  this  from  a roadway,  40  feet 
wide,  for  business  vehicles.  The  whole  will  be  lighted  by  groups 
of  electric  lights  of  artistic  design.  It  is  expe&ed  that  this  will 
be  one  of  the  great  scenic  avenues  of  the  world.  The  work  is 
already  well  underway. 

The  Cliff  House,  Sutro  Gardens  and  Sutro  Baths.— 
Though  not  under  the  park  management,  the  Cliff  House,  Sutro 
Gardens  and  Sutro  Baths  are  closely  conne&ed  with  Golden 
Gate  Park,  as  the  western  end  of  the  park  leads  dire&ly  to  them. 

The  present  Cliff  House  is  the  fourth  of  that  name,  and 
the  fifth  building  upon  or  near  this  rock,  the  western  tip  of  Point 
Lobos.  The  first,  known  as  the  Seal  Rock  House,  was  erecded 
in  1858.  The  second  (and  first  one  known  as  Cliff  House)  was 
built  in  1861.  The  third  was  a plain,  square  strud:ure  of  wood, 
built  in  1863,  and  destroyed  by  fire  on  Christmas  night  in  1894. 
The  fourth,  an  ornate  wooden  building,  suggesting  at  a distance 
a French  chateau,  was  built  by  the  late  Mr.  Adolph  Sutro,  and 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1907.  It  was  erroneously  stated  in  some 
eastern  and  English  periodicals  of  repute  that  the  Cliff  House, 
dignified  as  “a  massive,  stone  stru&ure,”  tumbled  into  the  sea 
during  the  earthquake  of  1906,  whereas  it  was  not  at  all  injured. 

[78] 


The  Present  Cliff  House  and  Seal  Rocks. 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 

Since  very  early  days  the  Cliff  House  has  been  a favorite  objec- 
tive  point  for  a drive  or  a street  car  ride.  It  is  a glorious  place 
from  which  to  view  an  ocean  storm. 

The  present  structure,  of  concrete,  was  built  on  the  historic 
site  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  destruction  of  the  previous  one. 
From  the  terrace  a fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  seal  rocks,  with 
the  clumsy  sea  lions  climbing  over  or  swimming  about  them  and 
struggling  with  one  another  for  favorite  places,  all  the  time  bark- 
ing lustily.  The  seal  rocks  are  under  the  park  management. 

Following  the  road  down  the  beach  one  sees  the  children 
wading  or  bathing.  If  a warm  day,  the  sands  are  covered  by 
hundreds,  sometimes  thousands,  of  picnickers.  The  water  is  too 
cold  for  pleasant  bathing,  but  the  children  enjoy  wading  and 
being  chased  by  the  surf  up  the  beach.  Here  members  of  the 
Olympic  Club  make  it  a point  to  bathe  and  have  a run  on  the 
beach  every  Christmas  Day.  Though  the  water  is  too  cold  for 
comfortable  bathing  in  summer,  it  is  not  appreciably  colder  on 
Christmas  Day  than  on  the  Fourth  of  July.  In  the  midst  of  this 
beach  a long,  iron  pier  extends  into  the  ocean.  This  carries  the 
pipe  through  which  is  pumped  the  salt  water  for  supplying  the 
Olympic  Club,  the  Lurline  and  other  salt  water  baths  in  the  city. 

Opposite  the  Cliff  House  a parapet  crowning  Sutro  Heights 
may  be  seen.  This  is  reached  through  the  beautiful  Sutro  Gar- 
dens, the  home  of  the  late  Adolph  Sutro  (now  unoccupied,  but 
open  to  the  public).  From  the  parapet  is  a glorious,  unbroken 
view  of  the  ocean,  the  beach,  the  heads  (marking  the  entrance  to 
the  Golden  Gate),  of  Point  Reyes  (forming  the  northern  bound- 
ary of  the  outer  bay),  and,  if  clear,  the  Farallone  Islands,  twenty- 
seven  miles  away.  Always  there  is  the  interest  of  watching  the 
vessels  going  in  or  out  the  Golden  Gate— fishing  smacks,  tugs, 
schooners,  steamships,  per- 
haps a battleship  or  cruiser, 
and,  if  one  is  fortunate,  the 
eye  may  be  gladdened  by  the 
sight  of  a ship  in  full  sail. 

Returning  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  gardens,  the 
road  down  the  hill  leads  to 

[79] 


The  Olympic  Club’s  Christmas  Day  Frolic. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

the  Sutro  Baths,  hewed  out  of  rock,  the  largest  salt  water  baths 
in  the  world.  There  is  a number  of  commodious  tanks  which  are 
graduated  in  temperature  and  depth,  so  that  children  of  all  sizes 
can  be  safely  accommodated.  One  tank  is  exclusively  for  ladies, 
and  there  is  a very  large  one,  big  enough  for  the  swimming 
matches.  Diving  platforms,  slides  (made  slippery  by  constantly 
flowing  water)  and  other  apparatus  add  zest  to  the  sport.  The 
building  contains  an  interesting  museum,  besides  the  bathing 
tanks.  Surrounding  the  tanks  are  seats  for  over  7,000  people. 

The  best  way  to  reach  the  Sutro  Gardens,  Sutro  Baths  and 
Cliff  House  is  by  the  Cliff  House  car  on  Sutter  street.  If  pos- 
sible, get  a seat  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  car.  After  leaving 
the  city,  the  line  skirts  the  cliffs  along  the  Golden  Gate,  giving  a 
view  of  its  rocky  shores  and  the  entrance  from  the  ocean  which 
can  be  obtained  in  no  other  way.  As  the  car  turns  towards  the 
Golden  Gate,  one  looks  down  upon  Baker’s  Bay  and  Beach,  where 
the  ill-fated  Rio  de  Janeiro  sank  a dozen  years  ago.  A little  way 
further  is  Land’s  End.  From  the  station  a steep,  but  perfectly 
practicable,  pathway  leads  down  to  the  rock-strewn  beach.  This 
is  a fine  place  to  picnic  or  to  spend  a few  hours  watching  the 
surf  boil  among  the  rocks,  and  the  vessels  going  out  and  coming 
in  the  Golden  Gate.  Mile  Rock,  capped  by  a lighthouse,  seems 
scarcely  more  than  a stone’s  throw  away,  though  it  is  a mile 
from  shore,  as  its  name  indicates.  Opposite  can  be  seen  the  white 
Government  buildings  on  Point  Bonita.  For  a number  of  years 
a hermit  lived  in  a rocky  cave  on  this  beach.  Near  the  end  of 
the  Cliff  car  line  is  the  gateway  leading  into  the  Sutro  Gardens. 

After  visiting  the  Gardens,  Baths  and  Cliff  House,  return 
to  the  city  can  be  made  by  the  Ellis  Street  line,  skirting  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  park.  This  line  is  reached  a block  east 

of  the  Great  Highway  or 
ocean  boulevard.  Or,  if  one 
wish  to  climb  the  hill  again, 
there  is  the  returning  Cliff 
line  and  the  Clement  Street 
line  which  enters  and  leaves 
a spacious  station  next  to  the 
Sutro  Baths. 

[8°] 

Sutro  Baths,  Largest  Salt-lVater  Baths  in  the  World. 


Not  Holland;  but 
Golden  Gate  Park,  San 
Francisco.  Photo- 
graph by  R.  J.  Waters. 


telegraph  Hill. 

Scarred  with  the  jagged  wounds  from  ruthless  hands , 
Despoiled , dishonored  of  my  fair  array— 

The  gold  and  emerald  vesture  of  the  day 
When  first  I signaled  to  these  virgin  strands 
The  argosies  and  fleets  of  alien  lands ; 

Rampart  and  sentinel  of  this  my  Bay 
Whose  untracked  waters  leaped  in  jeweled  spray 
And  beat  in  melody  the  tawny  sands! 

What  guerdon  mine ? I wait!  To  greet  these  skies— 
Throned  on  my  breast,  lifting  from  fronded  trees, 
I see  a templed  splendor  yet  to  be 
Whiter  than  Shasta' s snows  it  shall  arise. 

And  proud  as  that  which  shone  on  Pericles— 

The  marble  dream  by  the  Aegean  sea. 

— In  a Coolbrith. 


/ 


Telegraph  Hill,  With  Pioneer  Park  on  Its  Summit. 

Chapter  Six  • The  Smaller  Parks 

Buena  Vista  Park.— Buena  Vista  Hill,  rising  just  south  of 
Haight  street,  between  Broderick  street  and  Central 
, avenue,  is  reached  by  the  Haight  Street  cars.  From 
I here  a fine  and  extended  view  is  obtained  of  the  city, 
peaks  of  the  Coast  range,  the  ocean,  bay  and  islands. 
Pine  and  cypress,  acacia  and  live  oak  trees  cover  it.  There  are 
pleasant,  woodsy  paths,  and  benches  for  rest  and  enjoyment  of 
the  outlook. 

Portsmouth  SQUARE.-Most  interesting  of  the  small  parks 
is  Portsmouth  Square,  the  oldest  improved  square  in  the  city  and 
the  center  of  Yerba  Buena,  the  little  settlement  on  the  cove  of 
that  name  which  was  the  forerunner  of  the  city  of  San  Francisco. 
The  early  history  of  this  square  is  the  early  history  of  the  city, 
and  it  has  not  ceased  to  play  its  part  in  subsequent  years.  It  lies 
between  Kearny  street  and  Brenham  place,  Washington  and  Clay 
streets,  a small  half-square,  crowded  with  associations,  historical 
and  literary.  William  Heath  Davis,  who  came  to  Yerba  Buena 
cove  in  1833,  said  that  where  Portsmouth  Square  now  is  was 
then  a growing  crop  of  potatoes,  planted  by  Candelario  Mira- 
montes,  who,  with  his  family,  lived  at  the  Presidio.  The  square, 
or  plaza,  as  it  was  then  called,  was  set  aside  from,  the  little  set- 
tlement of  Yerba  Buena  in  1835,  and  the  first  two  houses  built 
by  Americans  (that  of  Captain  Richardson  in  1835  and  that  of 
Jacob  Leese  in  1836)  were  near  the  corner  of  Dupont  and  Clay 
streets.  I fi  the  home  of  Leese  the  first  Fourth  of  July  celebra- 
tion was  held  in  1 836,  and  here  was  born  in  1 840  Rosalie  Leese, 
the  first  child  of  American  parents  born  in  the  city.  Soon  the 
principal  buildings  of  the  little  settlement  clustered  around  the 

[8.] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

square.  The  first  hotel  wor- 
thy of  the  name  was  erected 
in  1846,  on  the  southwest 
corner  of  Clay  and  Kearny 
streets— the  City  Hotel.  This 
was  a long,  one-story  adobe 
building,  with  a verandah  on 
the  Kearny  Street  front.  The 
custom  house  fronted  on  the 
square,  and  later  the  post- 
office  was  on  the  corner  of  Pike  and  Clay  streets.  In  1849  the 
Rev.  Albert  Williams,  founder  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church 
of  San  Francisco,  preached  his  first  sermon  in  the  public  school- 
house,  situated  on  the  southwest  corner  of  the  plaza.  This  school- 
house  was  a memorable  building,  then  the  only  place  for  public 
meetings  in  the  city.  Mr.  Williams  says:  “A  bell  on  a column 
in  the  rear  of  the  building  gave  no  uncertain  sound.  Union  re- 
ligious services  were  held  here  morning  and  evening  on  Sunday. 
On  secular  days  the  place  was  occupied  by  my  ‘Institute/  a pri- 
vate school,  and  on  certain  evenings  by  the  Town  Council,  known 
as  the  Ayuntamiento,  and  also  by  the  District  Assembly  and  by 
occasional  public  gatherings.” 

The  first  bank  was  on  Kearny  street,  opposite  the  square. 
The  first  store  building  was  on  Clay  and  Dupont  streets  and  the 
first  newspaper  office  one  block  distant. 

On  July  8, 1 846,  with  appropriate  ceremonies,  the  American 
flag  was  here  first  raised  in  San  Francisco.  The  flag  was  from 
the  United  States  Sloop  of  War  Portsmouth,  then  lying  in  the 
bay.  It  was  raised  by  Captain  Montgomery  of  the  sloop,  as- 
sisted by  his  command  of  sailors  and  marines,  and  a salute  of 
twenty-one  guns  was  fired  from  the  Portsmouth,  proclaiming  the 
occupation  of  northern  California  by  the  United  States.  From 
this  deed  the  plaza  received  its  later  name  of  Portsmouth  Square; 
and  Montgomery  street,  one  block  east,  was  given  the  name  of 
the  captain. 

Here  was  the  seething  center  of  life  of  early  days.  Some- 
times it  resounded  to  joyous  celebrations;  sometimes  the  gather- 
ings were  sombre.  In  1850  there  was  in  the  square  a procession 

[8,] 


Portsmouth  Square  in  1854. 


THE  SMALLER  PARKS 

of  all  the  Chinese  in  the  city  (about  a hundred),  dressed  in  their 
richest  robes;  the  purpose  was  to  bid  them  welcome  to  our  shores— 
a sharp  contrast  to  their  later  treatment-and  to  distribute  among 
them,  with  speeches  through  an  interpreter,  Chinese  books  and 
leaflets,  secular  and  religious.  In  1851  one  of  the  hangings  by 
the  Vigilance  Committee  took  place  in  the  plaza,  from  a beam 
projecting  from  the  custom  house. 

Gradually  schools  and  churches,  custom  house  and  post- 
offlce  have  withdrawn  from  its  vicinity,  but  its  surroundings  are 
no  less  interesting.  To  the  north  stretches  the  Latin  quarter, 
west  is  Chinatown,  while  opposite  is  the  fine  new  Hall  of  Jus- 
tice, replacing  the  previous  one  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  and 
fire  of  1906. 

The  lingerer  on  the  square  can  hear  the  tongues  of  many 
far-away  lands.  Foreigners  fill  the  benches  or  sun  themselves  on 
the  grass,  as  they  did  when  R.  L.  S.  sat  there  in  1879  and  in 
watching  that  strange  life  ebb  and  flow  about  him,  and  in  listen- 
ing to  sailor  yarns,  received  the  inspirations  of  some  of  his  later 
tales.  And  so,  when  the  fountain  was  to  be  ereCted  “To  Remem- 
ber Robert  Louis  Stevenson,”  this  spot  was  chosen  for  its  site. 

It  was  the  first  monument  eredted  to  his  memory,  and  was  de- 
signed by  Mr.  Bruce  Porter  and  Mr.  Willis  Polk. 

It  is  but  a few  short  blocks  to  the  site  of  the  Bush  Street 
restaurant  where  Stevenson  ate  his  fifty-cent  dinners, “a  copious 
meal,  with  half  a bottle  of  wine,”  and  to  the  site  of  608  Bush 
street,  where  he  passed  some  dreary  weeks.  Both  places  had  van- 
ished before  the  fire  of  1906  made  its  clean  sweep,  but  the  first 
meeting  of  the  Stevenson  Fellowship,  which  commemorated  the 
birthday  of  Stevenson  by  a supper  and  appropriate  speeches,  was 
held  in  this  restaurant,  and  from  there  the  company  walked  to 
the  square  to  decorate  the 
monument  with  wreaths  and 
flowers.  It  was  a notable 
gathering:  Mrs.  Stevenson; 

Jules  Simoneau,  of  Monte- 
rey, the  old  French  restau- 
rateur with  whom  Stevenson 
“discussed  the  universe  and 

[83] 

Portsmouth  Square,  With  the  Stevenson  Monument. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

played  chess  daily;”  Miss 
Ide,  to  whom  Stevenson  de- 
vised his  birthday  as  she, 
having  been  born  on  Christ- 
mas Day, “had  no  proper  one 
of  her  own;”  Mrs.VirgilWil- 
liams,“bridesmaid  and  best 
man  in  one”  on  the  occasion 
of  his  marriage,  and  others 

Portsmouth  Square,  After  the  Earthquake  and  Fire.  who  loved  Stevenson  though 

they  had  not  been  fortunate  enough  to  know  him.  Dr.  Jordan, 
president  of  Stanford  University,  presided. 

Portsmouth  Square  saw  many  disastrous  conflagrations— the 
first,  in  1849,  destroying  most  of  the  little  town,  with  its  flimsy 
structures  of  canvas  and  wood.  This  was  followed  by  five  equally 
severe  during  1850  and  1851.  Of  all  these  the  old  plaza  was  the 
center;  but  on  the  morning  of  April  18,  1906,  it  awakened  to  its 
greatest  experience.  The  Hall  of  Justice,  across  Kearny  street, 
tottered  and  its  cupola  fell  with  its  iron  framework  bent  at  right 
angles.  Chinatown  and  the  Latin  quarter,  shaken  to  the  core, 
poured  many  of  their  frightened  inhabitants  into  the  square.  Citi- 
zens, hastening  to  the  mayor  to  offer  their  services  and  finding 
the  City  Hall  in  ruins,  met  in  the  badly  damaged  Hall  of  Jus- 
tice. From  there,  driven  by  the  approach  of  fire,  they  adjourned 
to  the  vicinity  of  the  Stevenson  monument,  moving  further  west 
to  the  unfinished  Fairmont  Hotel  as  the  fire  drew  nearer.  Again 
Portsmouth  Square  was  surrounded  by  fire,  buildings  were  con- 
sumed, its  trees  were  scorched,  their  leaves  shriveled— ruin  was 
all  around.  The  Fountain  alone  spoke  of  hope  and  peace,  still 
offering  its  cup  of  cold  water,  still  admonishing  us  “to  be  honest, 
to  be  kind.”  Soon  under  its  shadow  appeared  a long  row  of  tem- 
porary graves;  a little  later  the  square,  hospitable  alike  to  the 
living  and  the  dead,  was  filled  with  the  tents  of  refugees  and  of 
the  soldier  guard.  In  December,  150  two-room  cottages  were 
erected  on  the  square,  which  were  occupied  through  the  winter 
and  following  spring.  At  the  southeast  corner  stands  an  iron  post, 
bearing  an  inscription  and  supporting  a bell.  Another  marks  the 
intersection  of  Kearny  and  Market  streets,  and  there  is  one  before 

[84] 


THE  SMALLER  PARKS 

the  old  Mission  Church  on  Dolores  street.  These  are  placed  by 
the  Landmarks'  Club  of  California,  to  mark  the  important  points 
on  El  Camino  Real,  or  old  royal  highway  from  mission  to  mission. 

Union  Square. -Union  Square  occupies  the  block  between 
Stockton  and  Powell,  Geary  and  Post  streets.  It  is  prettily 
planted  with  trees,  shrubbery  and  flowers,  and  in  the  center  is  a 
monument  designed  by  Newton  Tharp,  to  commemorate  Dew- 
ey's victory  in  Manila  bay.  From  a massive,  square  base  rises  a 
slender  shaft  surmounted  by  Victory  with  a laurel  wreath.  The 
figure  is  by  Robert  Aitken.  President  McKinley  broke  the 
ground  for  this  monument  in  1901,  and  President  Roosevelt 
dedicated  it  in  1903;  on  the  same  visit  he  performed  the  sadder 
office  of  breaking  ground  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  park  panhan- 
dle for  a monument  to  the  memory  of  the  martyred  McKinley. 

The  morning  of  the  great  disaster  saw  this  square  filled  with 
a motley  crowd— Chinese,  Italians,  grand  opera  singers  and  women 
of  the  street,  guests  from  the  neighboring  hotels  with  trunks 
and  hand  baggage,  refugees  from  south  of  Market  street  with 
rolls  of  bedding  and  household  pets-all  happily  characterized 
as  “ a succotash  of  civilization.”  James  Hopper,  writing  of  that 
dreadful  morning,  says,  “ At  Union  Square  my  attention  was  ar- 
rested by  the  sight  of  a man  in  pink  pajamas,  walking  heel  and 
toe  in  his  bare  feet  in  a continuous  circling  of  the  Dewey  column; 
also  by  a tall,  English-looking  man  with  flowing  whiskers,  clad 
in  a long  white  nightshirt,  who  sat  on  a bench  perpetually  replac- 
ing in  the  orbit  of  his  left  eye  a monocle,  which  an  involuntary 
contraction  immediately  twitched  out  again.” 

But  the  square  saw  many  sadder  scenes.  Here  early  in  the 
day  were  brought  some  of  the  sick,  wounded  and  dead  from 
south  of  Market  street,  to  be  taken  further  west  as  the  fire  pro- 
gressed. Hundreds  of  trunks 
piled  in  this  square  for  safety 
were  later  burned.  One  writer 
saw  a great  truck  load  for 
which  a man  was  vainly  try- 
ing to  get  horses.  When  he 
passed,  a few  hours  later, “the 
trunks  were  merrily  burning.” 

[8s] 

Union  Square  in  1885.  Calvary  Presbyterian, 

Congregational  and  Trinity  Churches. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Facing  Union  Square,  on  Powell  street,  stands  the  St.  Francis 
Hotel.  It  was  spared  through  Wednesday,  but  fire  swept  through 
it  during  the  early  morning  hours  of  the  nineteenth,  destroying 
everything  inflammable.  The  stone  walls  remained  intadl,and  the 
kitchen  and  grill  rooms  in  the  basement  were  little  injured.  As, 
after  the  flames  had  passed,  they  could  soon  be  restored  for  use, 
the  management  obtained  permission  to  e red  in  Union  Square  a 
temporary  wooden  building  for  housing  its  guests  until  the  St. 
Francis  could  be  refitted.  This  building,  known  as  the  little 
St.  Francis,  was  removed  when  the  need  for  it  had  passed.  Union 
Square  is  practically  the  center  of  the  business  portion  of  the  city, 
and  its  benches  are  frequented  by  men  in  all  walks  of  life.  Owing 
to  its  central  situation,  it  is  used  for  displays  of  fireworks  during 
San  Francisco’s  frequent  celebrations. 

Jefferson  Square.— Jefferson  Square,  with  an  area  of  eleven 
and  one-quarter  acres,  covering  four  blocks,  lies  between  Golden 
Gate  avenue  and  Eddy  street,  Gough  and  Laguna  streets.  It 
contains  a variety  of  handsome  trees,  interspersed  with  groups  of 
shrubbery.  The  cars  of  the  Turk  and  Eddy  line  pass  its  north- 
ern boundary  on  Eddy  street,  returning  through  the  middle  on 
Turk  street. 

This  little  park  is  interesting  as  the  refuge  of  homeless 
thousands  during  the  nights  of  the  great  fire,  and  as  the  site  of 
one  of  the  principal  camps  of  refugees.  Here  in  the  midst  of 
whatever  could  be  saved  from  the  devouring  flames,  rested  the 
weary  people,  some  with  hand  luggage  and  bundles  of  bedding; 
others,  if  they  had  not  come  from  too  great  a distance,  with 
trunks  dragged  hither  by  ropes.  From  here  many  of  them  scat- 
tered to  Golden  Gate  Park,  the  Presidio,  or  to  the  homes  of 
friends;  but  hundreds  remained  and  soon  the  square  was  a vil- 
lage of  tents.  As  in  the  other 
camps,  wash  houses  and  bath 
houses, with  hot  and  cold  wat- 
er, were  provided,  sterilized 
water  for  drinking,  and,  for 
the  first  five  months,  food 
was  furnished  from  a public 
kitchen.  Sanitary  regulations 

[86] 

Union  Square  To-day.  The  Dewey  Monument. 


When  earth  has  Eden  spots  like  this  for  man. 
Why  will  he  drag  his  life  where  lashing  storms 
Whip  him  indoors,  the  petulant  weather's  slave 
There  he  is  but  a helpless,  naked  snail. 

Except  he  wear  his  house  close  at  his  back. 

Here  the  zcide  air  builds  him  his  palace  walls  — 
Some  little  corner  of  it  roofed  for  sleep. 

— From  ‘ ‘ The  Hermitage , ’ ’ by  Edward  Rowland  Sill. 


THE  SMALLER  PARKS 

were  strictly  enforced  by  the  commander  in  charge.  In  October 
the  tents  were  replaced  by  three-room  cottages,  158  sheltering 
670  people.  The  square  was  not  vacated  until  near  the  close 
of  1907.  Like  Golden  Gate  Park,  Jefferson  Square  quickly 
recovered  from  the  marks  of  its  occupancy.  Trees  and  shrubs 
were  little  injured,  and  no  permanent  scars  remained. 

City  Hall  or  Marshall  SQUARE.-Between  Market  street 
and  City  Hall  avenue  at  Eighth  street  is  a small  square  of  historic 
interest.  It  formed  the  approach  to  the  City  Hall,  ereCted  at  a 
cost  of  $7,000,000  and  ruined  (the  shame  of  its  poor  construction 
crying  to  heaven)  by  the  earthquake  and  fire  of  1906.  This 
square  was  a part  of  the  old  Yerba  Buena  cemetery,  bounded  by 
Market,  McAllister  and  Larkin  streets.  It  was  also  the  site  of 
the  sandlot  agitation  of  Dennis  Kearney  against  the  Chinese.  He 
died  in  Oakland  a few  years  ago. 

In  this  square  stands  a monument  for  which  the  late  James 
Lick  left  a bequest  of  $100,000  “to  provide  for  a group  which 
should  typify  the  growth  of  the  State.”  A heroic  figure  of  Cali- 
fornia with  a grizzly  bear  at  her  feet  surmounts  a granite  ped- 
estal. Bronze  medallions  on  the  faces  of  the  pedestal  illustrate 
scenes  during  the  days  of  immigration  and  mining,  while  names 
of  men  prominent  in  the  early  days  encircle  it.  At  the  four  cor- 
ners, on  separate  pedestals,are  bronze  figures  representing  periods 
of  the  State’s  development.  The  sculptor  was  Frank  Happen- 
berger,  a native  of  the  State. 

Before  the  monument,  facing  Market  street,  is  a fine  bronze 
cannon  taken  at  Santiago  de  Cuba  in  1908.  The  workmanship 
is  beautiful,  and  its  history,  if  one  could  learn  it,  must  be  most 
interesting;  for  it  is  a French  cannon  made,  or  named,  for  the 
Prince  de  Conde  in  1754.  The  Latin  mottoes,' “ultima  ratio 
regum  ’’(the  last  resort  of 
kings),  and“nec  pluribus  im- 
par”  (not  unequal  to  many), 
speak  to  us  with  a grim  hu- 
mor of  days  which  we  hope 
are  past  forever. 

This  square  is  to  be  wi- 
dened one  hundred  feet  on 

[87] 


The  Lick  Statuary  in  Marshall  Square. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

each  side,,  to  form  a finer  ap- 
proach to  the  new  civic  cen- 
ter,which  will  embrace  the  old 
City  Hall  site  and  several 
blocks  west,  between  Larkin 
street  and  Van  Ness  avenue. 

Realizing  the  need  of 
the  people  for  small  parks 
and  breathing  spaces  near 

Refugee  Tents  in  a Small  Park.  Humorous  Signs.  their  homes,  especially  as, 

with  the  growth  of  the  city,  the  population  is  likely  to  become 
more  congested,  the  builders  of  San  Francisco  have  wisely  pro- 
vided for  many  small  parks  or  plazas  scattered  throughout  the 
city.  Most  of  these  were  camping  places  for  refugees  after  the 
fire,  and  some  of  these  colonies,  the  tents  replaced  by  wooden 
cottages,  occupied  the  squares  far  into  the  next  year.  Then  those 
who  desired  them  were  helped  to  buy  these  homes,  to  remove 
to  outlying  portions  of  the  city.  Neatly  disguised  with  shingled 
sides,  made  comfortable  with  porches  and  small  additions,  perhaps 
covered  with  vines  and  surrounded  with  flowers,  these  tempo- 
rary shelters  have  become  the  permanent  homes  of  many  who 
were  stripped  of  their  all  by  the  hre. 

Besides  those  previously  enumerated,  the  smaller  parks  are 
as  follows: 

Alamo  Square  crowns  the  Hayes  Street  hill  and  is  easily 
reached  from  Devisadero  or  Fillmore  streets, 

Alta  Plaza  and  Lafayette  Park  are  reached  by  the  Jack- 
son  and  Washington  Street  line.  The  former  lies  between  Scott 
and  Steiner  streets;  the  latter  between  Laguna  and  Gough. 

Bernal  Park  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  south  by  Pre- 
cita  and  Bernal  avenues,  and  on  the  east  and  west  by  Alabama 
and  Folsom  streets.  Its  area  of  a little  over  two  acres  is  mostly 
lawn,  bordered  by  shade  trees. 

Columbia  Square  is  bounded  by  Columbia,  Harrison, 
Sherman  and  Folsom  streets,  and  is  about  two  blocks  south  of 
the  Postoffice  Building.  It  is  two  and  one-half  acres  in  extent. 
It  has  given  its  name  to  the  Columbia  Park  Boys’  Club,  whose 
headquarters  are  now  on  Guerrero  street  near  Sixteenth,  a noted 

[88] 


THE  SMALLER  PARKS 

organization,  which  has  done  a splendid  work  for  the  boys  in  that 
part  of  the  city.  Major  Sidney  Peixotto  is  the  commander.  The 
boys  have  an  excellent  band.  They  have  been  taken  to  Europe 
and  to  Australia  for  concert  tours,  and  often  make  shorter  trips. 

Duboce  Park  is  north  of  Duboce  avenue,  and  between 
Steiner  and  Scott  streets. 

Franklin  Square  lies  between  Sixteenth  street  and  Bry- 
ant avenue,  with  an  area  of  about  four  and  one-half  acres. 

Garfield  Square  is  bounded  by  Twenty-fifth  and  Twenty- 
sixth  streets,  Harrison  street  and  Treat  avenue. 

Hamilton  Square  is  between  Scott  and  Steiner  streets,  on 
the  Geary  Street  line. 

Holly  Park  is  bounded  on  all  sides  by  Holly  Park  ave- 
nue, and  comprises  seven  and  one-half  acres. 

Lincoln  Park,  the  most  recently  acquired  park  territory, 
consists  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  acres  on  Point  Lobos,  embrac- 
ing the  old  City  Cemetery.  The  property  extends  from  Thirty- 
third  to  Fortieth  avenues  on  the  north,  and  from  Thirty-eighth 
to  Fortieth  on  the  south.  Fifty  acres  of  the  cemetery  grounds 
were  taken  by  the  Government  for  fortifications  at  Fort  Miley. 
A driveway  overlooking  Baker's  Beach,  connecting  with  the  Pre- 
sidio roadways,  is  projected.  The  views  from  here  are  magnificent. 
Golf  links  are  to  be  a feature  of  this  park. 

Lincoln  Park  is  included  in  the  territory  set  apart  for  the 
Panama-Pacific  International  Exposition.  It  is  proposed  to  pur- 
chase a strip,  one  block  wide  through  the  Richmond  district, 
for  a boulevard  to  conneCt  it  with  the  western  end  of  Golden 
Gate  Park.  This  boulevard  is  to  begin  at  Telegraph  Hill,  follow 
the  water  front  to  the  Harbor  View  site,  thence  to  the  Presidio, 
and  along  the  shore  line  of  the  Presidio  to  Lincoln  Park. 

Lobos  Square  is  further 
north,  a block  east  of  Fill- 
more street,  north  of  Chest- 
nut. It  is  reached  by  the 
Fillmore  Street  line. 

Mission  Park  is  the 
largest  of  the  parks  south  of 
Market  street.  Its  area  is 

[89] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

fourteen  acres.  It  is  bounded  by  Dolores,  Eighteenth,  Church 
and  Twentieth  streets.  Here  are  tennis  courts,  a wading  pool 
and  an  athletic  field,  with  grass  plats,  shade  trees  and  shrubbery 
to  add  to  the  attractions. 

Mountain  Lake  Park,  twenty  acres  in  extent,  lies  north  of 
Lake  street,  between  Seventh  and  Fourteenth  avenues.  The 
Presidio  Parkway  connects  it  with  Golden  Gate  Park. 

Pioneer  Park,  on  Telegraph  Hill,  is  bounded  on  the  north 
and  south  by  Greenwich  and  Filbert  streets,  and  on  the  east  and 
west  by  Montgomery  and  Kearny.  Although  the  attractions  of 
this  park  consists  wholly  in  view,  the  picture  formed  by  the 
sparkling  waters  of  the  bay,  the  vessels  plying  to  and  fro,  the 
islands,  the  distant  hills,  with  the  blue  Californian  sky  overarch- 
ing all,  generously  rewards  the  spirit  of  the  climber,  while  benches 
placed  in  shady  spots  afford  rest  to  his  body.  From  the  earliest 
days  this  view  was  appreciated-several  pioneer  writers  recorded 
thatccit  was  a pleasant  pastime  at  the  close  of  the  day  to  ascend 
Telegraph  Hill.” 

The  Kearny  and  North  Beach  cars  go  near  the  western  base 
of  the  hill  whence,  by  way  of  Greenwich  street,  the  ascent  is  more 
easily  made.  Further  improvement  of  this  park  and  terraced 
approaches  are  future  possibilities. 

South  Park  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  south  by  Bryant 
and  Brannan  streets,  on  the  east  west  by  Second  and  Third. 
H ere,  in  the  Fifties  and  Sixties,  lived  many  of  the  aristocracy  of 
the  town. 

Sunnyside  Park  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  south  by 
Thirty-second  and  Thirty-third  streets,  and  on  the  east  and 
west  by  Twin  Peaks  avenue  and  Stanyan  street. 

Washington  Square  lies  at  the  intersection  of  Montgom- 
ery avenue  and  Union  street. 
It  is  in  the  Italian  quarter 
and  is  reached  by  the  Union 
Street  line. 

There  are  eight  or  ten  addi- 
tional unimproved  reserva- 
tions of  various  sizes  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  city. 

[ 9°] 


Telegraph  Hill  From  the  North  Side  in  the  Eighties. 


/ 


Alcatraz  Island — the  Military  Prison. 

Chapter  Seven  • Government  Reservations 

The  Presidio  is  the  United  States  Army  Headquarters 
for  the  Department  of  California.  Although  a Gov- 
ernment reservation,  its  location,  ample  and  well  kept 
grounds,  shady  walks  and  drives  give  it  a place  among 
the  parks  and  pleasure  places  of  San  Francisco.  It 
comprises  1,542  acres,  more  than  half  planted  to  groves  of  pine 
and  eucalyptus,  with  a shore  line  on  ocean  and  bay  of  nearly 
three  miles.  There  are  homes  for  the  officers,  surrounded  by  a 
profusion  of  flowers,  quarters  for  the  unmarried  men,  barracks 
and  fields  of  tents  for  the  private  soldiers,  parade  grounds  and 
hospitals,  forts  and  harbor  defenses.  From  almost  every  point 
are  wonderful  views  of  the  Golden  Gate  and  Marin  County  hills. 

Four  Presidios,  or  garrisons  of  soldiers,  were  established  in 
Alta  California  by  the  Spanish  Government  to  guard  their  mis- 
sions-one  at  San  Diego,  one  at  Monterey,  one  at  San  Francisco 
and  one  at  Santa  Barbara,  in  the  order  named.  Each  is  on  a bay. 
Over  each  has  waved  the  flags  of  three  Governments.  The  one 
at  San  Francisco  is  now  the  most  important.  In  June,  177 6,  two 
expeditions  set  out  from  Monterey,  one  by  land  and  one  by  water, 
to  found  a mission  on  the  bay  which  was  discovered  by  a land 
expedition  from  San  Diego  in  1769,  and  named  in  honor  of 
St.  Francis  of  Assisi.  The  land  expedition  reached  the  northern 
part  of  the  peninsula  on  June  27th.  Besides  Friars  Palou  and 
Cambon,  it  consisted  of  a few  married  civilian  settlers  with  their 
large  families,  and  seventeen  dragoons  (also  married)  under  com- 
mand of  Don  Jose  Moraga,  who  was  to  be  the  Commandant  of 
the  Presidio.  They  brought  with  them  cattle,  sheep,  horses  and 
mules,  field  and  garden  seeds.  While  waiting  for  the  ship,  they 

[9 1 ] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

selected  a site  for  the  Presidio,  which  was  to  be  the  home  of  all 
save  the  friars.  They  cut  timber  and  began  work  on  the  simple 
buildings  which  were  to  shelter  them.  They  were  ready  for  occu- 
pancy by  September  17th,  the  festival  of  the  Stigmata  of  St. 
Francis.  On  that  day,  solemn  possession  was  taken  of  the  Pre- 
sidio by  Palou  in  the  name  of  his  royal  master,  King  of  all  the 
Spains.  The  establishment  was  blessed,  a cross  was  planted  and 
adorned,  mass  was  celebrated,  a Te  Deum  sung,  and  salutes  were 
fired  on  land  and  water.  This  was  the  first  permanent  settlement 
of  white  men  on  the  site  of  San  Francisco. 

In  1824,  when  Mexico  became  finally  independent  of  Spain, 
the  Spanish  flag  gave  place  to  the  Mexican,  Mexico  having 
retained  California  in  her  possession. 

A visit  to  the  Presidio  in  1825  is  thus  described:  “The  Gov- 
ernor’s abode  stood  in  a corner  of  the  Presidio  and  formed  one 
end  of  a row,  of  which  the  other  was  occupied  by  a chapel.  The 
opposite  side  was  broken  down  and  little  better  than  a heap  of 
rubbish  and  bones  on  which  jackals  and  vultures  and  dogs  were 
constantly  preying.  The  other  two  sides  of  the  quadrangle  con- 
tained storehouses,  artificers’  shops  and  the  jail,  all  built  in  the 
humblest  style,  with  badly  burned  bricks,  and  roofed  with  tiles. 
Whether  viewed  at  a distance  or  near,  the  establishment  im- 
pressed the  spectator  with  any  other  sentiment  than  that  of  its 
being  a place  of  authority  and,  but  for  the  tottering  flagstaff 
upon  which  was  occasionally  displayed  the  tri-colored  flag  of 
Mexico,  three  rusty  field  pieces  and  a half-accoutred  sentinel 
parading  the  gateway,  a visitor  would  be  ignorant  of  the  impor- 
tance of  the  place.” 

Richard  H.  Dana,  in  his  Two  Tears  Before  the  Mast , alludes 
to  the  “ruinous  Presidio,  some  five  or  six  miles  beyond  the  land- 
ing place.”  This  was  in  1 83  5. 
The  landing  place  was  Yerba 
Buena  cove.  When  he  visited 
San  Francisco  twenty-four 
years  later,  he  had  something 
better  to  tell  us  of  it.“I  took 
a California  horse  of  old  style 
(the  loping  gait)  and  visited 

[92] 


Looking  Over  the  Presidio  to  the  Golden  Gate. 


A Presidio  Walk. 

Where  “Rose  and  Honeysuckle 
Intertwine.”  Photograph 
by  Gabriel  Moulin. 


At  the  Presidio  of  San  Francisco. 

The  rose  and  honeysuckle  intertwine 

Their  fond  arms  here  in  beauty’s  own  sweet  way 
Here  loveliest  grasses  never  know  decay , 

And  every  wall  is  eloquent  with  vine ; 

Far-reaching  ave?iues  make  beckoning  sign , 

Where,  as  we  stroll  in  lingering,  glad  delay. 

The  trilling  songster  glorifies  the  sway 
That  gives  to  him  inviolable  shrine. 

And  yet,  within  this  beauty-haunted  place 

War  keeps  his  dreadful  engines  at  command. 
With  frowning  brow  and  unrelaxing  hand; 

And  as  we  saunter  on  in  pensive  pace. 

We  start  to  see,’  mid  these  so  lovely  bowers, 

A tiger  sleeping  on  a bed  of  flowers. 

— Edward  Robeson  Taylor. 


GOVERNMENT  RESERVATIONS 

the  Presidio.  The  walls  stand  as  they  did,  with  some  changes 
made  to  accommodate  a small  garrison  of  United  States  troops. 
It  has  a noble  situation  and  I saw  from  it  a clipper  ship  of  the 
very  largest  class  coming  through  the  Gate,  under  her  fore  and 
aft  sails.  Thence  I rode  to  the  fort,  now  nearly  finished,  on  the 
southern  shore  of  the  Gate,  and  made  an  inspection  of  it.  It  is 
very  expensive  and  of  the  latest  style.  One  of  the  engineers  here 
is  Custis  Lee,  who  has  just  left  West  Point  at  the  head  of  his 
class,  a son  of  Colonel  Robert  E.  Lee,  who  distinguished  him- 
self in  the  Mexican  War.”  The  fort  with  the  expensive  equip- 
ment is  old  Fort  Winfield  Scott  at  Fort  Point.  It  was  begun  in 
1854,  taking  the  place  of  the  Mexican  Fort  Blanco.  It  was  about 
seven  years  building  and  cost  $2, 000, 000.  Now,  of  course,  it  is 
hopelessly  out  of  date. 

In  1846,  between  Dana’s  two  visits,  the  American  flag  was 
raised  in  all  the  Presidios  of  California.  When  gold  discovery 
rapidly  increased  the  population  of  San  Francisco,  the  Presidio 
became  more  and  more  important.  It  is  now  one  of  the  most 
desirable  military  posts  and  one  of  the  most  strongly  fortified. 
Two  mammoth  guns  can  here  be  seen,  each  shot  of  which  costs 
$1,000.  There  are  twelve-inch  mortars  capable  of  throwing  an 
800-pound  shell  five  miles. 

During  our  war  with  Spain,  the  Presidio  was  a scene  of  great 
activity.  It  was  the  chief  point  of  departure  of  our  soldiers  for 
the  Philippines.  The  bodies  of  thousands  sacrificed  there  rest 
in  its  cemeteries.  Every  returning  transport  adds  a few  to  the 
number. 

Linked  with  the  Presidio  is  the  sad  story  of  Dona  Concep- 
cion Arguello,  the  beautiful  daughter  of  Don  Jose  Arguello,  the 
Commandante  of  the  Presidio  in  1806,  and  sister  of  Don  Luis 
Arguello,  who  is  buried  close 
to  the  old  Mission  church. 

Rezanov,  chamberlain  of  the 
Russian  emperor,  came  in  the 
interest  of  the  Imperial  Rus- 
sian-American  FurCompany 
to  negotiate  for  Russian  set- 
tlements in  California,  While 

[93] 


Fort  Scott,  Lime  Point  Opposite.  Narrowest 
Part  of  Golden  Gate. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

diplomacy  made  its  slow  way 
“He  from 
magnates  c 

talk  apart.  With  the  Com- 
mandante’s  daughter  on  the 
questions  of  the  heart.”  He 
won  her  heart,  and  sailed 
away  to  report  the  result  of 
his  negotiations,  and  to  gain 
the  consent  of  his  Emperor 
to  his  marriage.  Months  and  years  drifted  by,  but  no  word  came 
from  the  absent  lover  to  Dona  Concepcion  by  the  Golden  Gate. 

“Day  by  day  on  wall  and  bastion  beat  the  hollow,  empty  breeze; 

Day  by  day  the  sunlight  glittered  on  the  vacant  smiling  seas ; 

Week  by  week  the  near  hills  whitened  in  their  dusty  leather  cloaks; 

Week  by  week  the  far  hills  darkened  from  the  fringing  plain  of  oaks 
Till  the  rains  came,  and  far  breaking,  on  the  fierce  southwester  tost. 

Dashed  the  whole  long  coast  with  color,  and  then  vanished  and  were  lost. 

“So  each  year  the  seasons  shifted,  wet  and  warm,  and  drear  and  dry  : 

Half  a year  of  clouds  and  flowers,  half  a year  of  dust  and  sky— 

Still  it  brought  no  ship,  nor  message,  brought  no  tidings,  ill  or  meet. 

For  the  statesmanlike  commander,  for  the  daughter  fair  and  sweet.’ ’ 

So  she  waited, “Until  hollows  chased  the  dimples  from  her 
cheeks  of  olive  brown.”  Many  years  afterwards,  Sir  George  Simp- 
son, in  his  journey  around  the  world,  brought  the  news  that 
Rezanov  was  killed  by  a fall  from  his  horse  while  crossing  Siberia 
on  his  homeward  journey.  Suspense  ended,  hope  crushed  out. 
Dona  Concepcion  became  a nun.  Bret  Harte  has  woven  the 
pathetic  tale  into  a poem,  and  Gertrude  Atherton  has  embodied 
it  in  her  novel,  Rezanov . 

The  Presidio  Parkway  conne&s  Golden  Gate  Park  with  the 
Presidio.  It  is  a boulevard,  one  mile  long,  between  Thirteenth 
and  Fourteenth  avenues,  extending  from  Fulton  street  on  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  park  to  the  southern  line  of  the  Gov- 
ernment Reservation,  entering  at  a point  near  the  old  United 
States  Marine  Hospital,  passing  Mountain  Lake  Park.  There 
is  a main  driveway  with  a path  fifteen  feet  wide  paralleling  it  on 
each  side,  two  feet  higher  than  the  driveway  and  connected  with 

[94] 


grave  provincial 
ft  had  turned  to 


GOVERNMENT  RESERVATIONS 

it  by  a grassy  slope  ten  feet  wide.  Along  this  slope  are  shade 
trees  with  flowering  shrubs  between.  Outside  the  paths  are  wide 
strips,  outlined  with  grassy  borders,  planted  with  trees  and  shrubs. 

The  McDowell  Avenue  drive  in  the  Presidio  is  an  impres- 
sive one.  It  begins  at  the  left  of  the  Central  Avenue  entrance, 
skirts  along  Baker’s  Beach  and  passes  some  of  the  big  disappear- 
ing guns  of  our  harbor  defense. 

The  Presidio  is  easily  reached  by  car  line.  Its  tree-bordered 
paths  and  wide  stretches  of  field  and  wood  make  walking  in  the 
grounds  a pleasure.  The  Union  Street  car  line  goes  diredtly 
there  from  the  ferry,  but  the  best  route  for  the  pedestrian  is  to 
take  a Jackson  Street  car  on  Sutter  street  to  the  Central  Avenue 
entrance.  Here  is  a shady  path  where  the  trees  meet  in  an  arcade 
overhead.  The  walk  is  rather  long,  but  downhill  all  the  way, 
joining  finally  the  main  road  which  leads  to  the  hospital  build- 
ings. On  both  sides  of  the  main  road  are  the  officers’  quarters 
with  lawns,  trees  and  abundant  flowers.  A walk,  bordered  by 
cannon  balls  in  a space  between  two  yards,  leads  to  the  parade 
ground.  Following  the  main  road  down  a little  farther,  and 
turning  to  the  right,  between  two  hedges  of  flowers,  the  way 
leads  to  a long  white  bridge,  or  elevated  sidewalk,  probably  paced 
by  a sentry.  This  leads  to  the  Union  Street  car  line,  which  runs 
a short  distance  into  the  grounds. 

Near  the  foot  of  Van  Ness  avenue  is  Black  Point,  once  the 
home  of  John  C.  Fremont  and  his  brilliant  wife,  Jessie  Benton. 
This  is  now  a Government  Reservation.  Here  is  Fort  Mason, 
the  home  of  the  Commandant.  This  place,  as  well  as  the  Pre- 
sidio, was  a refuge  for  homeless  ones  in  April,  1906.  For  two 
days  and  nights  the  unending  procession  crept  along  Van  Ness 
avenue,  seeking  safety,  shelter  and  food.  Tents  were  given  out 
at  once  from  the  stores  of  the 
Presidio,  followed  soon  by 
shoes  and  army  clothing  for 
those  who  were  in  need  of 
them.  Kitchens  were  estab- 
lished, water,  food  and  milk 
distributed  and  the  whole 
machinery  of  army  organiza- 

[95] 


To  the  Parade  Ground. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

tion  was  set  going  in  deeds 
of  mercy. 

The  northern  point  of 
the  Presidio,  which  is  also 
the  most  northern  of  the  pen- 
insula, is  called  Fort  Point. 
Here  is  old  Fort  Winfield 
| Scott,  no  longer  used  for  de- 
fense. Opposite  can  be  seen 

Lighthouse,  Yerha  Buena  Island.  the  white  buildings  of  the 

lighthouse  and  Fort  Baker  at  Lime  Point,  in  Marin  county. 
This  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Golden  Gate,  one  mile  across. 

At  the  Government  Reservation  of  fifty  acres  on  Point  Lobos 
(point  of  wolves)  are  the  fortifications  of  Fort  Miley,  which,  with 
the  lighthouse  and  defenses  on  Point  Bonita  (pretty  point)  oppo- 
site, guard  the  western  entrance  to  the  bay. 

Alcatraz  Island.— This  is  a small  island  of  pi&uresque 
outline,  just  opposite  the  entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate  into  the 
bay.  Its  Spanish  name  perpetuates  the  pelicans,  which  once  fre- 
quented it.  Its  rugged  lines  and  steep  shores  suggest  the  Chateau 
dTf  to  readers  of  Dumas.  Here  is  the  military  prison  and  a light- 
house which  can  be  seen  nineteen  miles  at  sea.  There  is  a sub- 
marine torpedo  station  here,  and  a fog  bell.  The  Sausalito  ferry 
boats  pass  very  near  this  island. 

Yerba  Buena  or  Goat  Island.— This  island  was  named  by 
the  Spaniards  for  the  Yerba  Buena,  or“good  herb,”  abounding 
on  the  island,  and  which  was  used  by  them  medicinally.  Probably 
the  island  first  bore  the  name  which  later  was  given  to  the  cove. 
This,  in  turn,  gave  its  name  to  the  settlement  on  its  shores.  In 
later  years,  vessels  entering  the  bay  turned  loose  on  the  island 
superfluous  goats,  which  had  been  brought  for  fresh  meat  on  the 
voyage.  Breeding  there,  they  soon  covered  the  island,  and  gave 
it  its  second  name. 

Richard  H.  Dana,  in  183 5,  wrote  of  the  cclarge  and  beauti- 
fully wooded  islands  of  the  bay,”  so  we  may  infer  that  Yerba 
Buena  was  once  clothed  with  trees. 

The  island  contains  350  acres.  A Naval  Training  School 
is  located  here.  There  is  also  a lighthouse  and  fog  signal. 

[96] 


GOVERNMENT  RESERVATIONS 

Angel  IsLAND.-Juan  Bautista  de  Ayala,  who,  in  August, 
1775,  sailed  through  the  Golden  Gate  in  the  San  Carlos,  gave  to 
what  is  now  known  as  Angel  Island  the  name  of  Isla  de  Nuestra 
Senora  de  Los  Angeles-too  long  a name  for  hurried  Americans. 
Richard  H.  Dana,  writing  of  it  in  1 835,  sayscca  small  island  about 
two  leagues  from  the  anchorage,  called  by  us  Wood  island  and 
by  the  Spaniards  Isla  de  Los  Angeles,  was  covered  with  trees  to 
the  water’s  edge.”  He  added  that  great  numbers  of  deer  overran 
the  islands  and  hills  of  San  Francisco  bay. 

This  island  contains  about  600  acres.  On  its  northern  side 
is  the  Quarantine  Station,  one  of  the  largest  and  best  equipped 
in  the  world.  On  the  western  shore  is  the  Army  Po^st,  Fort 
McDowell.  On  the  eastern  shore  is  the  Army  Discharge  Camp. 
The  Immigration  Station  is  a place  of  great  interest  on  the  arrival 
of  foreign  ships.  Our  immigrants  are  now  mostly  from  oriental 
countries,  but  with  the  opening  of  the  Panama  canal,  the  station 
will  rival  Ellis  Island  in  the  number  and  variety  of  those  who 
pass  through  its  gates.  A military  road  encircles  the  island.  Per- 
mits to  visit  the  islands  may  be  obtained  from  army  headquarters. 

Mare  Island.— This  island  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
bay,  opposite  the  city  of  Vallejo.  It  is  reached  by  the  steamboats 
of  the  Monticello  line  and  by  ferry  from  Vallejo.  It  is  the  chief 
naval  station  of  the  Pacific,  with  a large  drydock. 

William  Heath  Davis,  in  his  Sixty  Tears  in  California,  says-. 
ccOn  Mare  Island,  from  1840  to  1843,  were  as  many  as  3,000 
elk.  They  crossed  to  the  mainland  and  recrossed  by  swimming. 
They  were  all  killed  for  their  hides  and  tallow.” 

The  Government  has  spent  millions  of  dollars  here.  The 
drydock  is  large  enough  to  hold  the  great  war  vessels,  and  here 
they  may  be  seen,  undergoing  repairs.  In  contrast  to  these 
modern  fighting  ships  may 
be  seen  many  obselete  ones. 

The  old  Man-of-War  Inde- 
pendence, which  fought  in 
the  war  of  1812,  and  some 
of  the  Spanish  ships  captured 
by  Admiral  Dewey  in  Man- 
ila bay,  are  here. 

[97] 


Naval  Training  School  on  Yerba  Buena  Island. 


I '■ 


Mission  Church  in  1865.  Old  Hotel,  the  Mansion  House. 

Chapter  Right  • The  Old  Mission 

The  pious  fathers  and  the  soldiers  who  pressed  their 
weary  way  northward,  where  white  man’s  foot  had 
never  trod,  had  no  thought  of  romance.  The  fathers 
came  to  win  the  land  for  Christ;  the  soldiers  came 
to  guard  them,  and  to  hold  the  land  for  Spain.  But 
as  those  days,  so  strangely  different  from  our  own,  have  receded 
into  the  past,  they  have  become  to  us  more  and  more  romantic. 
As  we  gaze  at  the  fa$ade  of  the  old  church,  at  the  thick  adobe 
walls,  at  the  quaint  tiled  roof  and  theccBells  of  the  Past”  lashed 
to  their  beams  with  rawhide  thongs,  they  have  the  power  to  call 
up  a series  of  pictures  and  to  shed  over  them  the“color  of  romance” 
as  nothing  else  in  San  Francisco  can. 

In  the  dream  pageant  which  passes  before  our  eyes  we  see 
first  the  little  band  of  soldiers,  with  Father  Font  and  Commanders 
Anza  and  Moraga  at  their  head,  struggling  over  the  sandy  hills, 
from  the  already  selected  site  of  the  Presidio,  to  find  a fertile, 
sheltered  spot  for  the  mission.  A level,  grassy  plain,  near  a small 
lake,  and  cca  stream  of  sweet  waters,”  invites  them.  It  being  in 
the  last  days  of  Lent,  the  name  of  Our  Lady  of  Sorrows  is  given 
to  the  lake  and  creek,  the  Laguna  and  Arroyo  de  Nuestra  Senora 
de  Los  Dolores.  The  site  is  fixed  upon  and  this  picture  fades 
away,  for  these  are  not  the  founders  of  the  mission. 

A few  months  later,  another  cavalcade  comes  into  view,  this 
time  from  the  south,  a long  line  of  soldiers,  settlers  with  their 
families,  horses  and  cattle,  Moraga  at  their  head  with  Fathers 
Palou  and  Cambon.  We  see  them  make  their  camp  and  pitch 
their  tents,  fifteen  in  number,  on  the  grassy  plain  near  the  lake. 
The  next  day  a booth  of  brush,  with  a simple  altar,  is  added  to 

[98] 


The  Mission  To-day. 
Photograph  by  Gabriel  Moulin, 


The  Angelus 

Bells  of  the  Past , whose  long-forgotten  music 
Still  fills  the  wide  expanse 

Tingeing  the  sober  twilight  of  the  Present 
With  color  of  Romance , 

I hear  your  call,  and  see  the  sun  descending 
On  rock  and  wave  and  sand. 

As  down  the  coast  the  Mission  voices,  blending , 
Girdle  the  heathen  land. 

* * * 

Borne  on  the  swell  of  your  long  waves  receding 
I touch  the  farther  Past— 

I see  the  dying  glow  of  Spanish  glory. 

The  sunset  dream  and  last ; 

* * * 

Once  more  I see  Porto  la’ s cross  uplifting 
Above  the  setting  sun  ; 

And  past  the  headland,  northward,  slowly  drifting 
The  freighted  galleon . 


— Bret  Harte 


THE  OLD  MISSION 

the  pi&ure,  and  on  the  following  day,  June  29th,  we  see  them 
all  gathered  to  witness  the  celebration  of  the  first  mass  at  Dolores. 

Again  the  picture  changes.  Most  of  the  company  have 
moved  north  on  the  peninsula  and  are  working  on  the  buildings 
of  the  Presidio.  The  band  at  the  mission  site  is  now  only  the 
two  missionaries,  their  three  Indian  servants  and  six  soldiers. 
The  cattle  are  left  with  them,  to  graze  over  the  fertile  plains. 

The  scene  moves  on.  The  San  Carlos  has  arrived  and,  when 
the  rude  buildings  of  the  Presidio  are  completed,  Quiros,  the 
commander  of  the  ship,  his  chaplain,  one  of  his  pilots,  the  sur- 
geon and  some  of  the  sailors  come  over  to  the  lake,  and  soon 
we  see  them  busy,  helping  the  missionaries  to  build  shelter  for 
themselves  and  a temporary  church.  Some  are  driving  in  the 
poles  of  the  palisade  walls,  some  are  plastering  them  with  mud. 
When  the  roofs  of  tule  thatch  are  added,  all  is  ready.  The  church 
is  to  be  dedicated  and  the  work  of  converting  the  Indians  to  begin. 
The  formal  celebration  of  the  foundation  of  the  mission  was  to 
have  been  on  the  feast  day  of  St.  Francis,  October  4th;  but, 
Moraga  being  absent,  it  was  postponed  till  his  return. 

The  next  picture  is  that  of  Odober  9,  1776,  the  day  of  the 
celebration.  The  rude  church  and  simple  altar  are  hung  around 
with  flags  and  pennants  brought  from  the  San  Carlos.  We  see 
all  the  people  in  procession,  bearing  an  image  of  St.  Francis  to 
the  altar,  where  it  is  placed.  Mass  is  said,  and  the  Mission  of 
San  Francisco  d’ Assisi,  projected  seven  years  before,  has  become 
a reality.  A year  passes,  and  we  have  a glimpse  of  Father  Junipero 
Serra,  the  presidente  of  the  missions,  on  his  first  visit.  He  had 
longed  for  a mission  dedicated  to  his  beloved  St.  Francis,  the 
founder  of  his  order,  and  now  he  sees  his  hopes  realized.  The 
church  is  little  more  than  a hut,  but  in  it  he  celebrates  mass  before 
seventeen  adult  Indian  con- 
verts. He  passes  over  to  the 
Presidio,  thanking  God  that 
“now  our  Father  St.  Francis, 
with  the  Holy  Cross  of  the 
Procession  of  the  Missions, 
has  reached  the  last  limit  of 
the  Californian  continent.” 

[99] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

But  no  thought  enters  his 
mind  of  the  great  city  which 
is  to  arise  from  this  begin- 
ning. 

The  next  scene  brings 
us  to  April  25,  1782,  when 
the  cornerstone  of  the  new 
church  was  laid.  This  is  to 
be  our  own  church  which 
we  visit  to-day.  The  Indians 
have  been  gathered  in  and  taught  useful  arts,  as  well  as  religion. 
They  can  hew  and  dress  the  wood,  and  make  the  sun-dried  bricks; 
the  fathers  directing  the  work.  We  see  the  troops  from  the 
Presidio  again  engaged  in  a solemn  ceremonial.  In  the  corner- 
stone is  enclosed  an  image  of  St.  Francis,  some  relics  in  the  form 
of  bones  of  St.  Pius,  and  of  other  holy  martyrs,  medals  of  various 
saints,  and  silver  coins.  This  foundation  stone  of  the  new  church 
is  laid  about  one  thousand  varas  southeast  of  the  first  one. 

For  our  nextpi&ure  of  the  mission  we  are  indebted  to  Van- 
couver, who  visited  it  in  1793.  Buildings  have  been  added  and 
form  two  sides  of  a quadrangle.  They  are  made  of  adobe,  or  sun- 
dried  bricks.  The  huts  of  the  Indians  are  made  of  willow  poles 
woven  with  twigs;  all  are  thatched  with  grass  and  tule.  In  one 
large  room  are  Indians  weaving,  on  the  looms  they  have  built, 
blankets  from  wool  they  have  raised.  On  other  looms,  they  are 
weaving  their  clothing.  They  are  making  soap  and  tanning  hides. 
The  stock,  small  and  large,  has  increased  to  thousands.  Hun- 
dreds of  Indians  have  been  baptized.  In  1795,  we  see  pottery 
making  added  to  the  industries.  The  church  and  other  buildings 
are  roofed  with  tiles. 

Dr.  Langsdorff,  who  accompanied  the  Russian  chamberlain, 
Rezanov,  in  1 806,  paints  a pleasant  pid;ure  for  us.  He  commends 
the  lives  of  the  padres  at  the  mission,  praising  their  self-sacrifice. 
He  speaks  of  the  industries  of  the  Indians,  of  the  skill  of  the 
women  in  basket  weaving,  and  of  the  herds  of  cattle  and  horses. 

General  Vallejo,  in  his  oration  at  the  centennial  celebration 
of  the  founding  of  the  mission,  gives  us  another  bright  picture. 
“In  one  of  my  journeys  to  San  Francisco,  during  the  year  1826, 

[i°°] 


THE  OLD  MISSION 

I found  this  mission  in  all  its  splendor  and  state  of  preservation, 
consisting  at  that  time  of  one  church,  the  residence  of  the  rev- 
erend fathers,  granaries,  warehouses  for  merchandise,  guard- 
house for  the  soldiers,  prison,  an  orchard  of  fruit  trees  and  vege- 
table garden,  cemetery,  the  entire  rancheria  or  Indian  village,  all 
constructed  of  adobe  houses  with  tile  roofs,  the  whole  laid  out 
with  great  regularity,  forming  streets;  and  a tannery  and  a soap 
factory.  That  is  to  say,  on  that  portion  which  actually  lies  between 
Church,  Dolores  and  Guerrero  streets  from  north  to  south,  and 
between  Fifteenth  and  Seventeenth  streets  from  east  to  west.” 

These  were  the  golden  days  of  the  missions.  In  1825,  that 
of  St.  Francis  is  said  to  have  possessed  76,000  head  of  cattle, 
more  than  3,000  horses,  nearly  1,000  mules,  2,000  hogs,  79,000 
sheep  and  456  oxen.  Besides  this  stock,  in  the  granaries  were 
18,000  bushels  of  wheat  and  barley,  in  the  storehouses  $3  5,000 
worth  of  merchandise,  and  $25,000  in  gold  and  silver  coin.  Fruits 
and  vegetables  from  their  orchards  and  gardens,  wine  from  their 
own  vineyards,  enriched  the  table  of  the  padres.  The  stranger 
was  made  welcome  to  their  best,  the  spent  horse  was  exchanged 
for  the  pick  of  their  herds,  recompense  was  refused  and,  cheered 
and  refreshed,  the  traveler  was  sent  on  his  way  with  a blessing. 
For  many  years  the  missions,  about  a day’s  horseback  journey 
apart,  were  the  only  places  where  a traveler  could  find  rest  and 
food.  Business  with  other  nations  was  in  the  hands  of  the  padres. 
The  coast  trade  was  mostly  in  hides  and  tallow,  with  grain  for 
the  Russian  settlements.  But  these  days  were  numbered. 

The  pictures  grow  more  sombre;  the  good  days  of  the  mis- 
sion have  passed.  In  1835  it  was  secularized,  the  Indians  were 
scattered,  and  there  is  no  record  of  any  of  the  property  being 
divided  among  them,  as  was  the  case  with  some  of  the  missions 
at  secularization.  The  prop- 
erty, consisting  of  real  estate, 
church  property  and  the  live- 
stock, was  valued  at  about 
$60,000.  Anticipating  sec- 
ularization, the  padres  had 
sold  off  the  cattle  and  allowed 
the  herds  to  diminish.  In 


[i°t] 


The  Mission  in  1849. 


The  Mission  in  1856. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

1845  Pi°  F ic°  issued  a pro- 
clamation to  the  Indians  of 
the  mission,  enjoining  them 
to  reunite  and  occupy  the 
property  or  it  would  be  de- 
clared abandoned  and  would 
be  disposed  of;  but  the  In- 
dians did  not  come  back.  The 
church  was  returned  to  the 
custody  of  the  Archbishop, 
under  whose  care  it  still  remains.  When  Captain  Montgomery 
raised  his  flag  in  Portsmouth  Square  and  proclaimed  California 
a part  of  the  United  States,  the  days  of  the  mission  as  a living 
force  had  passed  away  forever.  But  though  now  our  interest  is 
largely  transferred  to  the  settlement  on  the  bay,  the  pictures  of 
the  mission  do  not  cease  to  unroll  before  us. 

Dana  comes,  serving  before  the  mast  in  the  good  ship  Pil- 
grim, from  Boston.  For  more  than  a year  his  ship  went  up  and 
down  the  coast,  collecting  its  cargo  of  hides  from  the  missions 
and  the  great  Spanish  ranches.  He  gives  us  only  a line  or  two 
of  Mission  Dolores  at  this  time,ccas  ruinous  as  the  Presidio, 
almost  deserted,  with  but  few  Indians  attached  to  it  and  but  little 
property;”  but  we  have  through  him  vivid  pictures  of  the  traffic 
in  hides,  from  the  rounding  up  of  the  cattle  to  the  stowing  of  the 
ship, and  of  life  at  other  missions,  and  in  the  seaport  towns  of  those 
days.  Twenty-four  years  later  he  visited  San  Francisco,  and  gives 
us  another  glimpse  of  the  mission.  “It  had  a strangely  solitary 
aspect,  enhanced  by  its  surroundings  of  the  most  uncongenial, 
rapidly  growing  modernisms,  the  hoar  of  ages  surrounded  by  the 
brightest,  slightest  and  rapidest  of  growths.  Its  old  belfry  still 
clanged  with  the  discordant  bells;  mass  is  saying  within,  for  it  was 
used  as  a place  of  worship  for  the  extreme  south  part  of  the  city.” 
Next  we  see  Bayard  Taylor  leaving  San  Francisco  one  after- 
noon in  1849  and  wading  through  the  three  miles  of  deep  sand 
to  the  mission.  Following  him  over  the  hills  that  same  eve- 
ning to  the  Sanchez  rancho,  we  see  him  at  the cc  large  adobe  house, 
the  ruins  of  a former  mission.”  This  is  an  interesting  glimpse  of 
something  now  wholly  obliterated. 

[102] 


THE  OLD  MISSION 

The  same  year  we  see  the  Reverend  Albert  Williams  “with 
one  saddle  horse  for  the  common  use  of  our  party  of  four.  Our 
route  lay  through  St.  Ann’s  and  Hayes  Valleys  and  over  inter- 
vening sandhills.  St.  Ann’s  Valley  was  overspread  with  a thick 
grove  of  scraggy  dwarf  oaks.  * * In  Hayes  Valley  we  pause  to 
regale  ourselves  with  its  luscious  wild  strawberries.  With  ups  and 
downs  and  winding  courses,  it  is  a good  three  miles  to  the  mis- 
sion premises.  Here  a novel  sight  of  old  and  new,  Spanish  and 
American,  was  presented  to  our  view.  The  principal  mission 
buildings  still  stood,  their  massive  adobe  walls  crumbling  into 
decay,  the  church  in  partial  ruin,  its  interior  dark,  gloomy  and 
uncomfortable,  an  earthen  floor,  and  here  and  there  a plain 
plank  bench,  the  pidlures  upon  the  walls  partaking  also  of  the 
general  dilapidation.  The  apartments  next  to  the  church  were 
occupied  by  Father  Santillan,  the  remaining  portions  of  the  build- 
ing, former  residences  of  the  padres,  were  occupied  by  intruding 
adventurers, under  color  of  squatter  right.  * * At  intervals,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  church  were  a few  adobe  dwellings  of  Californian 
families.  This  suburb  of  San  Francisco,  in  its  quiet  rural  repose, 
presented  a scene  in  striking  contrast  with  the  bustling  activity  of 
the  city  on  the  bay.”  Mr.  Williams  tells  us  that  in  1853  a plank 
road  was  built  to  the  Mission,  and  that  when  lumber  was  $300 
a thousand  feet. 

In  his  book,  Life  on  the  Pacific  Coasts  Mr.  S.  D.  Woods, 
writing  of  the  early  Fifties,  says  that  the  Mission  was  reached 
by  a plank  road  running  along  what  is  now  Mission  street,  a 
toll  road,  leading  across  marsh  lands  which  covered  this  portion 
of  the  town.  The  toll  was  profitable  to  its  owners,  as  well  it 
might  be  at  a half-dollar  for  a one-horse  rockaway,  since  it  was 
the  only  means  of  communication  with  the  Mission. 

Weseein  1855, through 
the  pen  of  Charles  Warren 
Stoddard,  two  plank  roads 
leading  from  the  city  to  the 
Mission,  over  each  of  which 
omnibuses  ran  every  half- 
hour.  “The  plank  road,  a 
straight  and  narrow  way,  cut 

io3] 


Interior  of  Mission  Church.  Ceiling  Decorated 
by  Indians. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

through  acres  of  chaparral,  leading  over  forbidding  wastes  of 
sand,”  which,  shifting,  at  times  covered  the  roadway.  The  Mis- 
sion he  remembers  “as  a detached  settlement,  with  pronounced 
Spanish  flavor.  There  was  one  street  worth  mentioning  and  only 
one.  It  was  lined  with  low-walled  adobe  houses,  roofed  with  the 
red  curved  tiles  which  add  so  much  to  the  adobe  houses  that 
otherwise  would  be  far  from  picturesque— there  were  a few  ram- 
shackle hotels  at  the  Mission,  for  in  the  early  days  everybody 
either  boarded  or  took  in  boarders,  and  many  families  lived  for 
years  in  hotels  rather  than  attempt  to  keep  house  in  the  wilds 
of  San  Francisco.  The  Mission  was  about  one  house  deep  on 
either  side  of  the  main  street.  You  might  have  turned  a corner 
and  found  yourself  face  to  face  with  cattle  in  a meadow.  At  the 
top  of  this  street  stood  the  mission  church,  and  what  few  mission 
buildings  were  left  for  the  use  of  the  fathers.  The  church  and 
grounds  were  the  most  interesting  features  of  the  place,  and  it 
was  a favorite  resort  of  the  citizens  of  San  Francisco,  yet  it  most 
likely  would  not  have  been  were  the  church  the  sole  attraction. 
Here,  in  appropriate  enclosures,  there  were  bull-fighting,  bear- 
baiting  and  horse-racing.  Many  duels  were  fought  here  and  some 
of  them  were  so  well  advertised  that  they  drew  almost  as  well  as 
a cock-fight.  Cock-fighting  was  a special  Sunday  diversion.” 

And  no  better  pen  than  Stoddard’s  can  draw  for  us  one  of 
the  last  pictures  of  the  old  church.  “The  first  families  of  the 
faithful  lie  under  its  eaves  in  their  long  and  peaceful  sleep,  hap- 
pily unmindful  of  the  great  changes  that  have  come  over  the  spirit 
of  all  our  dreams.  The  old  adobes  have  returned  to  the  dust, 
even  as  the  hands  of  those  who  fashioned  them  more  than  a cen- 
tury ago.  Very  modern  houses  have  crowded  upon  the  old  church 
and  churchyard,  and  they  seem  to  have  become  the  merest  shad- 
ows of  their  former  selves; 
while  the  roof-tree  of  the  new 
church  soars  into  space,  and 
its  wide  walls— out  of  all  pro- 
portion to  the  Dolores  of 
departed  days-are  but  em- 
blematic of  the  new  spirit 
of  the  age.”  But  the  “roof- 

[ 1 °4] 

The  Mission  and  the  Brick  Church  “Soaring  Into  Space.” 


Monument  to 
Father  Junipero  Serra. 
Erected  in  Golden  Gate  Park 
by  the  Native  Sons  of  the 
Golden  West. 


At  the  Grave  of  Serra. 

* * O heart! 

Flaming , audacious  heart , jo  long  in  dust ! 

Twas  thy  reward  to  die  ere  died  thy  works , 

To  perish  ere  the  Vision  too  was  fled. 

The  Vineyard  and  the  orchard  and  the  fold 
Have  passed , and  passed  as  well  that  other  Flock , 
Thy  tenderest  concern , O spirit  pure! 

Who , of  infamy  and  gold , 

souls  alone . * * 


■ — George  Sterling 


THE  OLD  MISSION 

tree  soaring  into  space”  and  “the  wide  walls”  were  laid  low,  while 
the  old  church,  which  had  weathered  so  many  storms,  came  trium- 
phantly through  another.  The  earthquake  had  no  effeCt  upon 
its  thick  walls  and  huge  beams,  while  wide  Dolores  street  saved 
it  from  devouring  flames. 

This  last  dramatic  scene  is  a fitting  close  to  our  series  of 
romantic  mission  pictures.  In  the  great  fire  of  April,  1906,  the 
flames  raged  for  four  days,  and  swept  over  the  entire  distance  of 
three  miles  from  the  Ferry  Building  to  Dolores  street,  where  the 
mission  is  located.  The  eastern  side  of  this  street  was  devoured, 
but  here  the  fire  stopped  and  the  mission,  just  across  the  street, 
was  untouched.  After  the  fire  ceased,  all  the  works  of  the  hand 
of  man,  for  three  miles,  from  the  mission  to  the  bay,  had  been 
obliterated,  while  the  old  church  stood,  as  a century  and  a quarter 
before,  looking  with  unbroken  vision  to  the  bay.  May  it  stand 
many  years  longer,  reminding  our  children  unto  the  third  and 
fourth  generation  of  the  self-sacrifice  and  spiritual  enthusiasm 
through  which  this  city  had  its  birth.  Its  adobe  sides  are  now 
covered  with  wood  for  protection.  Mounting  to  the  gallery  within, 
one  may,  by  stepping  on  a bench  and  peering  into  the  roof,  see 
the  old  redwood  beams  lashed  together  with  rawhide  thongs, 
speaking  pathetically  of  the  difficulties  the  padres  had  to  surmount 
with  their  lack  of  suitable  materials  and  skilled  workmen.  There 
was  no  iron  for  nails,  their  tools  were  few  and  simple,  everything 
must  be  manufactured  from  raw  material  by  raw  material,  and 
the  two  sorts  of  raw  material  were  brought  together  with  diffi- 
culty. Truly,  if  genius  is  “capacity  for  taking  infinite  pains,”  the 
padres  were  men  of  genius. 

For  one  reason  or  another,  after  many  years  of  use  as  a par- 
ish church,  the  interior  had  been  stripped  of  its  pictures  and  altar 
decorations.  To  Miss  Nora 
Fennell  is  due  the  restora- 
tion. She  had  been  brought 
up  near  the  mission,  attended 
church  there  in  her  child- 
hood, and  she  loved  it.  The 
children  and  grandchildren 
of  the  early  settlers  about  the 

io5] 


Beams  in  Roof  Lashed  Together  With  Rawhide  Thongs. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

mission  helped  her  with  contributions.  She  knew  where  the 
missing  decorations  were  stored  and  in  1903  all  were  brought 
together  in  their  former  places,  a happy  restoration.  The  altar 
stands  to-day  just  as  when  it  came  from  the  Franciscan  college  in 
Mexico.  It  is  the  same  altar  before  which,  in  1784,  Father  Palou 
united  in  marriage  Don  Jose  Joaquin  Moraga,  the  commander  of 
the  expedition  which  founded  the  mission,  and  Maria  Bernal. 
Beneath  that  altar  Moraga  sleeps. 

It  is  only  by  good  fortune  that  one  finds  the  door  open, though 
often  it  is  possible  to  obtain  entrance  by  applying  at  the  church 
at  the  side  or  at  the  priests’  residence.  The  Catholic  Church  has 
often  been  blamed  for  allowing  the  missions  to  perish  through 
neglect  or,  as  in  the  case  of  San  Francisco,  for  not  making  pro- 
vision for  the  public  to  visit  freely  so  interesting  a relic,  but  the 
criticism  seems  unjust.  The  mission  of  the  Church  is  the  salva- 
tion of  souls,  not  the  preservation  of  historic  spots,  however 
interesting.  That  function  belongs  to  the  State  or  community. 
Dear  though  the  place  may  be  to  the  Church,  if  its  usefulness  to 
her  has  passed,  she  has  no  right  to  divert  for  its  care  funds  needed 
for  a more  precious  purpose.  The  missions  have  passed;  some 
are  inclined  to  belittle  the  work  they  performed,  but,  however 
one  judges  them,  the  fad:  remains  that  to  them  is  due  the  first 
colonization  of  California  and  the  birth  of  her  chief  city. 

A word  about  the  name  of  the  church.  It  is  usually  called 
the  Mission  Dolores.  Its  real  name  is  Mission  de  San  Francisco 
d’Asis,  the  Spanish  for  St.  Francis  of  Assisi.  Being  near  the  stream 
called  Arroyo  de  Nuestra  Seiiora  de  Los  Dolores  (Americanized 
as  Dolores  creek),  it  was  often  called  Mission  San  Francisco 
Dolores,  to  distinguish  it  from  San  Francisco  de  Solano  (mission 
at  Sonoma).  This  in  turn  was  shortened  to  Dolores. 

The  old  graveyard,  next  to 
the  church  and  contemporary 
with  it,  is  described  in  the 
chapter  on  “Cemeteries.” 
The  mission  is  reached  by 
Valencia  Street  car  on  Mar- 
ket, or  the  Sixteenth  Street 
car  on  Fillmore  street. 

[i°6] 


Mission  in  the  Seventies.  Cemetery  and  Convent  Wall. 


German  Lutheran  Church,  From  Jefferson  Park. 


Chapter  Nine  • Churches 

± mong-  those  who  do  not  know  San  Francisco  well,  she  bears 
at  best  the  reputation  of  a gay,  light-hearted  city,  wholly 
/— m given  over  to  frivolity  and  pleasure-seeking,  and  Jere- 
1 jL  miahs  are  plentiful  to  deplore  her  unregenerate  state 
and  denounce  her  as  the  wickedest  of  cities,  even  point- 
ing a moral  with  our  great  disaster  of  1906.  Whereas,  in  truth, 
as  in  all  cities,  good  and  evil  walk  side  by  side.  If  pleasure  is 
too  eagerly  pursued  by  San  Franciscans,  it  is  because  eagerness 
is  one  of  their  characteristics,  and  it  is  as  marked  in  the  line  of 
righteousness  as  in  that  of  pleasure.  If  vice  does  not  by  hypoc- 
risy pay  its  tribute  to  virtue,  it  does  not  mean  that  it  is  more 
prevalent  than  in  other  cities,  only  that  it  is  less  hidden,  or  better 
aired;  if  the  stranger  within  its  gates  knows  no  better  way  of 
“seeing  the  town”  than  in  looking  for  vice  and  adding  his  im- 
ported quota  to  what  he  finds,  it  means  that  guides  have  profited 
by  San  Francisco's  reputation  as  a gay  city.  Alas!  in  any  city 
when  one  looks  for  vice,  it  may  be  found.  Unfortunately,  as 
Reverend  G.  G.  Eldredge  has  said  in  an  article  on  The  True  San 
Francisco , “There  are  no ‘guides’ to  take  the  tourist  to  visit  the 
missions,  rescue  homes,  social  settlements  and  churches”— yet  who- 
ever seeks  for  the  better  things  of  which  a city  should  be  proud 
shall  find  them  in  San  Francisco  in  abundance. 

And  again,  of  the  early  days  in  San  Francisco,  another  writer 
says, “The  chief  contribution  of  the  world  to  California  from 
1840  to  1849  was  a virile  manhood  in  which  was  mingled  all 
the  noblest  qualities  of  mind  and  heart.”  This  charadleristic  per- 
sisted through  the  trying  later  years  when  along  with  the  strong 
and  virtuous  came  many  of  the  weak  and  vicious;  and,  reading  the 

[ 1 °7  ] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

diaries  of  both  ministers  and 
laymen  of  the  Fifties  and  Six- 
ties,one  is  struck  by  the  trib- 
bute  most  of  them  pay  to  the 
religious  force  of  the  city. 
They  agree  that  along  with 
the  wild  and  reckless  element 
marched  a sturdy,  God-fear- 
ing people  in  sufficient  num- 
bers to  enforce  a Christian 
sabbath,  to  build  and  maintain  churches,  fill  them  to  overflowing 
and  call  to  them  some  of  the  strongest  ministers  and  best  preach- 
ing talent  of  the  land.  It  has  been  well  said, “the  gold-seekers 
were  hardly  here  before  the  soul-seekers,”  and  the  latter  made  as 
great  sacrifices,  worked  as  strenuously  and  with  as  great  results  as 
the  former.  San  Francisco  was  founded  as  a mission  and  she  has 
not  been  unmindful  of  her  birth.  As  with  the  discovery  of  gold 
the  little  hamlet  suddenly  expanded  into  a city,  ministers  of  the 
various  Protestant  denominations  were  hastened  to  the  spot,  and 
in  1851  San  Francisco  had  nine  Protestant  churches  and  the  old 
mission  church  to  minister  to  the  Catholics— certainly  a worthy 
showing.  Planted  in  the  new  soil  by  Missionary  Boards,  the 
churches  before  long  became  self-supporting  and  in  turn  spread 
through  the  State  and  reached  out  to  foreign  fields. 

The  Methodists  were  first  with  a church  organization  in  1 847, 
but  did  not  have  a building  until  1850.  The  Congregationalists 
organized  in  1849;  their  first  house  of  worship  was  dedicated  in 
1853.  It  was  on  the  southwest  corner  of  Dupont  and  California 
streets.  The  pastor  was  the  Reverend  T.  Dwight  Hunt,  the  first 
regular  Protestant  clergyman  in  California.  He  came  from  Hon- 
olulu in  1848  and  was  made  chaplain  of  the  settlement. 

The  first  house  of  worship  built  in  California,  outside  of  the 
old  Spanish  missions,  was  a meeting-house  for  the  First  Baptist 
Church  of  San  Francisco,  built  on  Washington  street  in  1849.  It 
was  only  thirty  by  fifty  feet  and  had  for  a roof  old  ship  sails,  yet 
it  cost  $6,000  in  gold.  The  First  Presbyterian  Church  of  San 
Francisco  was  organized  early  in  1849  by  the  Reverend  Albert 
Williams,  its  pastor  for  four  years.  A tent  at  Dupont  street, 

[108] 


CHURCHES 

between  Pacific  street  and  Broadway,  might  be  called  their  first 
church  home,  though  they  had  previously  met  in  the  school  house 
near  Portsmouth  Square  and  in  the  City  Hall.  The  tent  was  sup- 
planted by  a pretty  church  on  the  west  side  of  Stockton  street, 
between  Pacific  street  and  Broadway.  This  building  (ready  to 
put  up,  pulpit,  pews  and  all  complete)  was  sent  from  New  York 
around  the  Horn.  It  was  opened  and  dedicated  in  January, 
1851,  soon,  alas,  to  be  destroyed  by  fire.  Howard  Presbyterian 
Church  was  organized  in  1850  by  the  Reverend  Doctor  Willey, 
one  of  the  founders  of  the  University  of  California,  and  still  living. 

An  Episcopal  church,  similar  to  the  First  Baptist,  was  built 
in  1850.  Its  cost  was  $8,000  in  gold.  When  the  contribution 
plate  was  passed  at  the  first  service,  nothing  less  than  gold  coin 
was  placed  on  it. 

Because  in  many  instances  the  various  church  bodies  have 
preferred  to  put  their  money  in  missions  (city,  home  or  foreign) 
rather  than  in  costly  edifices,  generally  speaking  San  Francisco’s 
later  church  buildings  have  not  kept  pace  with  her  building  in 
other  lines,  nevertheless,  a number  of  them  are,  for  various  rea- 
sons, worthy  of  note. 

First  in  the  hearts  of  those  who  love  San  Francisco  for  her 
unique  artistic  spots  is  the  little  Swedenborgian  church  on  the 
corner  of  Washington  and  Lyon  streets.  But  it  is  to  something 
deeper  than  the  artistic  sense  that  the  quiet  loveliness  of  this 
church  appeals;  an  island  of  simple  beauty  in  a sea  of  artificiality,  it 
sheds  its  benign  influence  over  all  who  enter  its  gates.  No  one 
of  whatever  creed  or  denomination  can  leave  that  spot  unblessed; 
no  troubled  spirit  can  fail  to  be  soothed  by  its  sweet  serenity. 

The  fern-bordered  brick-paved  entrance  leads  into  a green-walled 
yard  where  all  city  noises  are  shut  out  by  the  bordering  shrub- 
beries, where  the  sunlightfil- 
ters  through  the  purple  of 
the  Japanese  plum  and  the 
green  of  other  trees,  where 
birds  are  singing  and  dipping 
their  wings  in  the  cistern  set 
in  the  grass  for  their  use, 
where  here  and  there  a few 

[ io9] 

Swedenborgian  Church  on  Washington  and  Lyon  Streets. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

flowers  or  blossoming  shrubs  give  just  the  right  touch  of  color, 
and  the  whole  is  blended  with  the  church  itself  by  the  vines  and 
climbing  roses  which  clothe  it.  One  would  fain  linger  in  this  quiet 
spot  where  worldly  cares  slip  away  and  peace  steals  into  the  soul; 
but  the  yard  is  a fitting  vestibule  for  the  church  within.  Enter- 
ing, one  finds  simplicity  and  sincerity  the  keynotes  of  both  church 
and  service.  The  natural-wood  finish,  the  roof  supports  of  logs 
still  bark  covered,  the  decorations  of  lichen-covered  branches  and 
vases  of  pidturesque  dried  seed-vessels,  all  with  their  browns  and 
grays  warmed  by  tempered  sunlight,  and  firelight  from  the  great 
fireplace  at  the  end  of  the  room,  form  a fit  setting  for  the  four 
beautiful  paintings  by  Keith  which  cover  the  northern  wall;  paint- 
ings whose  mellow  tones  and  wonderful  depths  emerge  from  the 
dusky  light,  and  are  printed  on  the  conciousness  during  the  hour 
of  reverent  service. 

A very  different  place  is  Calvary  Presbyterian  church,  on  the 
corner  of  Fillmore  and  Jackson  streets,  yet  for  several  reasons  it 
is  memorable.  The  church  was  organized  in  1854,  by  the  Rev- 
erend William  A.  Scott,  D.  D.,  L.  L.  D.,  a native  of  Tennessee. 
He  came  here  from  New  Orleans  at  the  age  of  forty-nine,  full 
of  learning,  with  a fine  voice  and  wonderfully  gifted  in  prayer. 
He  preached  with  power  and  pathos  and,  according  to  a contem- 
porary minister,  never  was  congregation  more  in  danger  of  being 
guilty  of  idolatry  in  worshipping  its  pastor  than  was  his,  as  the 
years  went  by.  The  troublous  days  of  the  Civil  War  drew  on. 
A native  southerner,  his  sympathies  were  with  the  South.  Often 
his  expressions  were  exaggerated  and  misrepresented.  It  was 
finally  thought  best  for  him  to  take  a voyage  to  Europe.  For 
some  time  he  supplied  a church  in  London  and  then  became  pas- 
tor of  the  Forty-second  Street  Presbyterian  Church  in  New  York. 

In  1870,  he  returned  to  San 
Francisco,  to  the  great  joy  of 
his  friends.  St.  John’s  Pres- 
byterian Church  was  organ- 
ized, and  he  installed  as  its 
pastor.  It  was  during  this  pas- 
torate that  he  married  Rob- 
ert Louis  Stevenson  and  Mrs. 

[no] 


Calvary  Presbyterian  Church.  Fillmore  and 
Jackson  Streets. 


Old  St.  Mary’s, 

Restored  After  the  Fire.  Once 
the  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral  Church.  Photo- 
graph by  Louis  J.  Stellmann. 


* * There  it  lay,  a constellation  of  lights , a golden  radiance , 
dimmed  by  the  distance.  S an  Francisco  the  hnpossible,  the  City 
of  Miracles l Of  it  and  its  people  many  stories  have  been  told ', 
and  many  shall  be;  but  a thousand  tales  shall  not  exhaust  its 
treasury  of  Romance.  Earthquake  and  fire  shall  not  change  it, 
terror  and  suffering  shall  not  break  its  glad,  mad  spirit . Time 
alone  can  tame  the  town,  * * rob  it  of  its  nameless  charm , sub- 
due it  to  the  Commonplace.  May  Time  be  merciful— may  it  delay 
its  fatal  duty  till  we  have  learned  that  to  love,  to  forgive,  to 
enjoy,  is  but  to  understand / 

— From  “ The  Heart  Line by  Gelett  Burgess. 

Copyright  IQOy.  Used  by  special  permission  of  the 
Publishers , The  Bobbs-Merrill  Company. 


CHURCHES 

Osborne.  He  was  largely  instrumental  in  founding  the  Presby- 
terian Theological  Seminary,  now  established  at  San  Anselmo. 

The  old  Calvary  Church  which  he  organized  was  on  Bush  street. 

After  occupying  several  sites,  its  home  for  a number  of  years  was 
on  Powell  street,  opposite  Union  Square.  Gradually  the  congre- 
gation moved  westward,  the  plot  of  ground  became  very  valuable, 
and  it  was  sold  for  enough  to  buy  the  present  Fillmore  street 
lot,  build  a handsome  new  church,  and  still  leave  money  in  the 
treasury-a  unique  experience  for  a church.  But-this  circumstance 
is  not  the  chief  reason  for  interest  in  it.  It  is  rather  because  of 
the  part  it  played  in  municipal  life  after  the  great  fire  in  1906. 

It  was  one  of  the  very  few,  and  the  largest,  of  the  churches  spared 
by  the  fire  and  it  was  left  comparatively  uninjured  by  the  earth- 
quake. For  months  it  was  a seat  of  justice  as  well  as  a center  of 
religious  life.  Courts  were  held  in  its  gymnasium,  Masonic  and 
other  societies  met  in  its  social  rooms,  while  for  religious  ser- 
vices, in  true  spirit  of  brotherly  love,  it  opened  its  doors  to  all 
denominations  needing  shelter,  Jewish  as  well  as  Christian-truly 
a gracious  and  a Christian  hospitality. 

The  First  Unitarian  Church  is  noteworthy  as  the  church  of 
Thomas  Starr  King,  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  great  men  who 
have  made  San  Francisco  the  city  of  their  adoption.  He  came 
to  San  Francisco  from  Boston  in  i860,  a young  man  of  thirty- 
.six,  who  was  already  winning  fame.  But  it  was  in  California  that 
he  became  one  of  the  world’s  great  orators.  To  him,  more  than 
to  anyone  else,  it  was  due  that  California  was  saved  for  the  Union 
in  the  dark  days  of  1861;  to  him,  more  than  to  any  one  else,  was 
due  the  large  sum  raised  by  California  for  the  Sanitary  Commis- 
sion. An  eloquent  preacher  and  speaker,  a fervent  patriot,  his 
body  was  too  frail  a tenement  for  his  fiery  soul.  His  priceless 
life  was  cut  short;  he  died  in 
1864,  only  forty  years  of  age. 

His  body  lies  before  the  door 
of  the  church,  on  the  corner 
of  Gearyand  Franklin  streets. 

The  old  Unitarian  Church  to 
which  he  was  called  was  on 
Stockton  street,  near  Sacra- 

[1,,] 

Geary-Street  Unitarian  Church.  Starr  King’ s First  Tomb. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

mento,  but  the  growth  of 
the  town  being  southward,  a 
church  was  built  on  Geary 
street,  near  Stockton,  soon 
after  Starr  King’s  arrival  here, 
and  this  was  the  church  in 
which  he  preached  and  where 
he  was  buried.  His  body  was 
removed  to  the  present  site 
when,  with  the  growth  of  the 
town,  the  church  was  again  obliged  to  move  on.  A bronze  statue 
in  Golden  Gate  Park  expresses  San  Francisco’s  appreciation  of 
his  life  and  services. 

The  fire  of  1906  destroyed  a large  proportion  of  the  churches 
of  the  city.  Most  of  them  have  been  replaced  and,  in  many  in- 
stances, by  finer  and  more  nearly  fireproof  structures  than  before. 

The  First  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  has  lately  finished 
and  dedicated  a handsome  new  building  on  Clay  and  Larkin 
streets.  The  organization  is  the  oldest  in  the  city;  indeed,  the 
oldest  on  this  coast,  south  of  the  Willamette  river.  It  had  its 
birth  in  1847.  After  two  years  in  temporary  shelters,  a lot  was 
bought  on  the  corner  of  Powell  and  Jackson  streets,  in  Novem- 
ber, 1849,  and  soon  after  a church  building  was  ereCted.  Up  to 
the  time  of  the  fire  the  church  remained  in  this  location. 

The  Central  Methodist  Church  has  a new  home  on  O’ Far- 
rell street,  west  of  Leavenworth,  having  in  rebuilding  made  a long 
leap  from  its  former  home  in  the  Mission.  In  the  Sixties,  when 
the  home  of  this  church  was  on  Howard  street,  near  Second,  the 
pulpit  was  filled  by  Doctor  Guard,  a man  of  great  eloquence  and 
power,  at  whose  every  service  the  building  was  crowded.  Those 
were  the  days  of  San  Francisco’s  great  pulpit  orators  in  almost 
every  denomination. 

In  January,  1912,  was  dedicated  the  new  home  of  the  How- 
ard Street  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  located  at  Howard  and 
Harriet  streets.  From  its  downtown  location  it  is  called  “The 
Church  of  the  Stranger.”  The  present  structure  cost  $118,000 
and  is  its  seventh  home  since  it  was  organized  in  1851  by  the 
Reverend  M.  C.  Briggs  in  the  Happy  Valley  school  house. 

[112] 


CHURCHES 

A yellow  brick  building  replaces  the  former  home  of  the 
First  Presbyterian  Church  on  the  old  site,  the  corner  of  Van 
Ness  avenue  and  Sacramento  streets. 

A large  and  handsome  Christian  Science  church  of  the  same 
material  has  been  recently  built  on  the  corner  of  Franklin  and 
California  streets. 

On  the  summit  of  Nob  Hill,  Grace  Pro-Cathedral  (Epis- 
copal) is  in  course  of  construction,  on  the  former  sites  of  two 
Crocker  homes,  which,  after  fire  had  destroyed  the  houses,  were 
given  by  the  Crocker  family  to  the  Church  for  this  purpose.  It 
is  a superb  position,  and  the  building,  when  completed,  will  be 
worthy  of  the  site.  A fine  white  granite  building  for  the  Divinity 
School  is  already  finished. 

Grace  Church  was  founded  by  the  Reverend  DoCtorVerMehr 
in  1850,  at  about  the  same  time  that  Trinity  Church  was  founded 
by  the  Reverend  Flavel  S.  Mines,  the  latter  coming  by  way  of 
the  Isthmus,  the  former  around  the  Horn.  Both  were  men  of 
energy  and  talent,  and  both  were  highly  accomplished;  but  at 
first  there  was  not  room  for  the  two  churches  and  Grace  Church 
led  a struggling  and  troublous  existence,  until  Bishop  Kip  arrived 
in  1854.  He  was  seleded  by  the  General  Convention  at  New  York 
in  18  53,  and  sent  out  as  Missionary  Bishop  of  California,  leaving 
the  rectorship  of  St.  Paul's  Church,  Albany,  to  come.  DoCtor  Ver 
Mehr,  having  given  up  Grace  Church  and  retired  to  Sonoma, 
where  he  opened  a seminary  for  young  ladies,  the  rectorship  was 
offered  to  Bishop  Kip,  who  accepted,  though  the  warden  told  him 
there  were  only  twenty  people  inside,  and  the  sheriff  at  the  door. 
In  three  years,  the  city  having  increased  rapidly  in  population, 
the  congregation  overflowed  the  church,  which  was  on  Powell 
street,  not  then  graded.  In  1857,  the  Reverend  Ferdinand  C. 
Ewer  became  reCtor,  the  bish- 
op resigning  as  his  other 
duties  pressed.  The  church 
continued  prosperous,  and  a 
new  building  was  ereCted  on 
Stockton  street  at  California. 

It  was  the  Cathedral  Church 
of  the  Diocese. 

[ 1 1 3 ] 

Grace  Pro-Cathedral.  Courtesy  of  the  Architect , 
L.  P.  Hobart. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

The  Trinity  Episcopal 
church  is  a massive  stone 
building,  clothed  with  ivy,  on 
the  corner  of  Goughand  Bush 
streets.  As  stated  before,  it 
was  founded  in  1850  by  the 
Reverend  Flavel  S.  Mines, 
who  died  of  consumption  af- 
ter a few  years  of  faithful 
labor.  When  Bishop  Kip  ar- 
rived in  1854,  he  said  that  all  there  was  of  the  Episcopal  church 
on  the  Pacific  coast  was  gathered  into  Trinity.  He  was  struck 
by  the  energy  and  efficiency  of  the  men  of  the  congregation. 
Mr.  Mines  was  followed  as  redlor  by  the  Reverend  Christopher 
B.  Wyatt. 

St.  Luke's  Church  (Episcopal)  has  recently  completed  a 
beautiful  white  stone  building,  remarkable  for  its  tasteful  simplic- 
ity. It  is  on  the  corner  of  Van  Ness  avenue  and  Clay  street,  the 
site  of  the  previous  church  building. 

The  population  of  San  Francisco  being  of  such  a cosmopoli- 
tan character,  most  of  the  different  denominations  have  churches 
to  accommodate  the  different  races,  in  which  each  may  listen  to 
the  service  in  his  own  language;  for  instance,  the  fourteen  Bap- 
tist churches  include  a Chinese,  a Finnish,  a German,  a Swedish, 
a Russian,  and  a Negro  church;  the  sixteen  Lutheran  are  divided 
among  the  Norwegian,  Swedish,  Finnish,  German,  and  English; 
while  the  twenty-one  Methodist  churches  include  African,  Chi- 
nese, Japanese,  Norwegian,  Swedish,  Danish,  and  German. 

The  Chinese  Presbyterian  and  Chinese  Methodist  churches 
are  on  Stockton  street,  between  Clay  and  Jackson  streets. 

The  Japanese  Presbyterian  church  is  at  121  Haight  street. 
On  Clay  street,  between  Powell  and  Stockton,  is  a Japanese  mis- 
sion, conducted  by  the  Episcopalians. 

When  the  first  Protestant  clergymen  arrived  from  the  East 
in  1849,  °ld  Mission  church,  presided  over  by  a Mexican 
priest,  Father  Santillan,  was  the  only  place  of  worship  for  the 
Catholics  of  SanFrancisco.  The  Reverend  Albert  Williams  (Pres- 
byterian), soon  after  his  arrival,  paid  his  respe&s  to  his  brother 


CHURCHES 

clergyman.  He  reports  that  the  padre  received  him  kindly.  He 
was  lying  ill,  in  a room  plainly  furnished,  save  for  a bookcase 
which  stood  in  one  corner.  On  the  shelves  were  a few  English 
volumes,  an  English  Bible  and  a Latin  New  Testament.  Mr. 
Williams  says  that  Father  Santillan  impressed  him  as  a simple 
and  sincere  man. 

In  June,  1849,  two  Jesuit  priests,  Fathers  Blanchet  and 
Langlois,  arrived  from  Oregon.  They  laid  the  foundation  of  the 
first  St.  Francis  church,  on  Vallejo  street.  Father  Blanchet  soon 
returned  to  Oregon,  but  Father  Langlois  remained.  Though 
understanding  English  but  imperfectly,  he  was  a useful  member 
of  the  community, “earnest,  and  at  all  times  ready  to  co-operate 
in  efforts  to  promote  good  morals  and  the  public  welfare.”  This 
is  the  testimony  of  a Protestant  clergyman  who  adds, “In  honor 
of  his  truly  catholic  spirit  and  pious  zeal,  I recall  his  successful 
effort  in  causing  the  suppression  of  a Sabbath-profaning  circus, 
his  countenance  given  to  temperance  meetings,  and  to  the  Bible 
Society,  and  his  permission  accorded  to  the  free  circulation  of 
copies  of  the  Holy  Scriptures  in  the  Spanish  language,  among 
the  Spanish  Roman  Catholic  population.” 

In  1850,  Father  J.  S.  Alemany  was  consecrated  at  Rome  as 
Catholic  Bishop  of  California.  Later  he  was  raised  to  the  Arch- 
bishopric. For  more  than  a quarter  of  a century  he  was  a true 
father  of  his  people,  and  under  his  guiding  hand  churches  of  his 
faith  multiplied  rapidly. 

The  present  St.  Francis  church  on  Montgomery  avenue  is, 
after  the  Mission  Dolores,  the  oldest  in  the  city.  It  was  built  in 
1859.  Its  interior  was  destroyed  by  the  great  fire,  but  the  walls 
remained  intad,  and  it  is  now  fully  restored. 

“Old  St.  MaryY’is  one  of  the  landmarks  of  the  city.  Its 
clock  tower,  with  its  solemn 
warning,  “Son,  observe  the 
time  and  fly  from  evil,”  has 
long  admonished  the  hurry- 
ing throng  from  its  corner  on 
Dupont  street  and  Califor- 
nia. It  was  in  former  years  the 
Cathedral  church  and,  at  that 

t1  * 5] 

St.  Francis  Church.  Oldest  Church  in  City 
After  the  Mission. 


I UH; 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


time,  the  finest  church  building  in  the  city.  It  is  now  the  church 
of  the  Paulist  Fathers. 

St.  Mary’s  church,  on  the  corner  of  Van  Ness  avenue  and 
O’Farrell  street,  is  the  Cathedral  church  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Diocese.  It  was  built  in  1 887.  It  had  a very  narrow  escape  from 
destruction  by  the  great  fire.  The  flames  swept  the  opposite  side 
of  Van  Ness  avenue.  The  top  of  the  belfry  broke  out  in  a small 
flame,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  cathedral  was  doomed.  The  devoted 
priests  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  spire  and,  with  the  assistance  of 
the  firemen,  chopped  away  the  burning  wood,  put  out  the  flames, 
and  thus  saved  the  building. 

The  Dominicans  lost  a fine  church  building  at  the  time  of 
the  earthquake.  They  have  now  a temporary  church  on  Pierce 
street,  between  Bush  and  Pine,  with  a school  fronting  on  Pine 
street,  and  the  priests’  house  on  Bush. 

St.  Ignatius’  church  and  college  (S.  J.)  occupied,  at  the  time 
of  the  fire,  an  entire  block  between  Van  Ness  avenue,  Hayes 
and  Grove  streets;  a handsome  pile  of  buildings.  The  church 
was  very  beautiful  within,  and  was  said  to  have  the  finest  organ 
west  of  Chicago.  All  was  swept  away.  They  have  had  tempor- 
ary buildings  for  church  and  school  on  Hayes  street,  near  the 
park.  Now  they  are  building  a fine  brick  and  steel  structure  on 
a noble  site  crowning  a hill  on  Fulton  street. 

On  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Van  Ness  avenue  is  a hand- 
some church,  St.  Brigid’s,  (R.  C.).  The  stone  used  in  its  construc- 
tion was  the  old  crosswalks  removed  when  the  streets  were  paved 
with  asphalt. 

The  Roman  Catholics  have  a number  ot  churches  for  those 
of  foreign  birth.  On  the  north  side  of  Bush  street,  between 
Stockton  and  Grant  avenue,  is  the  French  church,  Notre  Dame 


des  ViCtoires,  served  by  the 
Marist  Fathers. 


On  Grant  Avenue,  near 
Filbert  street,  is  the  Italian 
church  of  Pietro  e Paolo,  con- 
ducted by  Salesian  Fathers. 


On  the  north  side  of 
Broadway,  between  Mason 


St.  Mary's  Cathedral,  Roman  Catholic,  on  Van 
Ness  Avenue. 


rjwvys 


The  Silhouette  City. 

Against  a sky  of  rose  and  violet 

The  city' s outline  clearly,  sharply  shows. 

Against  a sky  of  violet  and  rose 

The  shapes  of  turret,  tower  and  minaret ; 

Twin  Peaks,  high  hills,  in  dream  repose  are  set. 
Around  whose  heads  the  poppy-zephyr  blows. 

Twin  Peaks,  high  hills,  are  set  in  dream  repose 
Where  Occident  and  Orient  have  met. 

And  now  the  skies  have  turned  to  gold  and  green. 
Rare  jewels  blaze  on  steeple,  spire  and  dome— 

Far,  far  across  the  deck's  low  rail  I lean 
And  throw  a kiss  to  thee,  my  natal  home! 

Dream  city ! Pilgrim  hearts  alone  can  prize 
Such  precious  balm  for  weary,  homesick  eyes. 

— Clarence  Ur  my. 


CHURCHES 

ana  Taylor  streets,  is  the  handsome  new  Spanish  church,  Yglesia 
de  Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe.  This  replaces  one  which  stood 
on  the  same  site  before  the  fire. 

There  is  a Slavonian  church,  the  Church  of  the  Nativity,  on 
Fell  street,  between  Franklin  and  Gough  streets. 

There  are  two  German  Roman  Catholic  churches— one,  St. 
Boniface,  on  Golden  Gate  avenue  between  Jones  and  Leaven- 
worth streets,  is  served  by  the  Franciscans;  the  other,  St.  An- 
thony’s, is  on  Army  street,  between  Shotwell  and  Folsom. 

The  old  Mission  church  is  of  too  great  interest  to  be  given 
only  a paragraph.  It  is  so  closely  woven  with  the  history  of  the 
city  that  it  is  given  a chapter  by  itself. 

The  oldest  Jewish  society  of  the  city  is  that  of  the  Congre- 
gation Emanu-El,  which  was  organized  in  1851.  In  1866,  a hand- 
some synagogue  was  built  on  Sutter  street  at  the  cost  of  nearly 
$ 200,000 . The  congregation  was  presided  over  for  many  years 
by  Dodtor  Elkan  Cohn,  a highly  intelligent  man  of  liberal  views. 
A later  incumbent  was  the  distinguished  Rabbi  Voorsanger,  a 
learned  man,  a powerful  preacher,  and  adtive  in  relief  work  in  the 
time  of  the  city’s  need.  The  great  fire,  which  spared  nothing  in 
its  path,  left  only  the  walls  of  the  handsome  building,  but  it  has 
since  been  completely  restored. 

The  liberal  views  of  Rabbi  Cohn  and  his  endeavors  to  intro- 
duce some  modifications  in  minor  rites  and  ceremonies  led  to 
some  dissatisfaction  among  the  more  orthodox  of  his  congrega- 
tion. The  dissatisfied  members  withdrew  and  organized  the 
Congregation  Ohabai  Shalome.  In  1865  they  built  a handsome 
temple  on  Mason  street.  Their  present  house  of  worship  is  on 
Bush  street. 

The  synagogue  on  California  and  Webster  streets,  whose 
dome  is  conspicuous  from  so 
many  parts  of  the  city,  is  the 
Temple  Sherith  Israel.  It 
was  comparatively  uninjured 
by  the  earthquake,  also  be- 
yond the  reach  of  the  flames, 
and,  like  Calvary  church,  it 
opened  its  doors  to  the  needy; 

[IT7] 


Temple  Sherith  Israel,  on  California  and 
Webster  Streets. 


tiSBl 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

for  secular  as  well  as  for  religious  purposes.  For  many  months 
United  States  courts  were  held  here,  and  here  took  place  the 
famous  trials  of  Mayor  Schmitz  and  Abraham  Ruef. 

The  temple  of  the  Congregation  Beth  Israel,  newly  built, 
is  on  Geary  street,  just  west  of  Fillmore. 

Trinity  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Orthodox  Russian-Greek 
Church  is  a small  building  on  the  corner  of  Van  Ness  avenue  and 
Green  street.  The  services  here  are  most  interesting  and  impres- 
sive. The  wonderful  bass  voices  of  the  men  of  the  choir  make 
the  singing  especially  beautiful.  An  archbishop  and  two  priests 
compose  the  consistory. 

The  Greek  Catholic  Church  was  established  in  California  at 
Fort  Ross  in  1811,  and  a part  of  the  primitive  building  still 
remains,  though  badly  injured  by  the  earthquake  of  1906.  It 
is  a valuable  historical  relic  and  is  to  be  repaired  and  preserved. 

At  2963  Webster  street,  on  the  corner  of  Filbert,  stands  a 
curious  building,  trying,  with  its  dome,  arches  and  open  roof,  to 
suggest  Indian  architecture,  but  succeeding  only  in  effecting  a 
flimsy  imitation.  The  tablet  at  the  door  reads:  “This  is  the  first 
Vedanta  or  Hindu  mission  in  the  West,  erected  21  August,  1905. 
The  Vedanta  is  the  oldest  literature  existent,  consisting  of  the 
highest  and  sublimest  thoughts  in  the  world.  Rama  Krishna 
Mission,  Calcutta,  India,  founded  by  Swami  Vivekanada.”  On 
another  tablet  is  given  the  time  of  lectures  and  classes  taught  by 
Swami  Trigunatita. 

With  four  of  the  dominant  hills  of  the  city  holding  aloft 
the  symbols  of  Christianity,  San  Francisco  should  be  known  as 
the  city  which  points  the  Way  with  peculiar  distinctness.  In  the 
western  half  of  the  city  the  most  conspicuous  objects  are  the 
towering  walls  of  St.  Ignatius  church  and  the  crosses  of  Lone 

Mountain  and  the  Prayer 
Book  Memorial;  while  from 
the  bay  and  down-town  dis- 
trict the  splendid  pile  of 
Grace  Cathedral  will  be  seen 
to  overshadow  even  that  sym- 
bol of  material  prosperity, 
the  great  Fairmont  itself. 

f"8] 


Temple  of  the  Hindu  Propaganda. 


Chapter  Ten  • Cemeteries 

Ait  to  the  ancient  cemetery  of  the  Mission  Dolores, 
adjacent  to  the  church,  places  one  at  once  in  the  atmos- 
phere of  the  early  days.  A search  among  the  ivy- 
covered  tombs  and  headstones  reveals  many  an  old 
Spanish  name  connected  with  the  early  history  of  Cali- 
fornia,along  with  the  names  of  many  who  supplanted  them.  Death 
is  the  great  leveler;  near  the  church  stands  the  tall  monument 
of  Don  Luis  Arguello,  the  first  Governor  of  California  under 
Mexican  rule,  while  not  far  away  are  the  graves  of  the  notorious 
Cora  and  Casey,  hung  by  the  Vigilance  Committee  of  1856  for 
the  murders  of  William  H.  Richardson  and  James  King  of  Wil- 
liam. This  is,  of  course,  the  oldest  cemetery  of  the  city.  The 
first  interment  was  made  in  1776.  The  tombs  of  some  of  the 
oldest  Spanish  families  are  within  the  church. 

As  the  little  settlement  of  Yerba  Buena  expanded  into  the 
city  of  San  Francisco,  the  cities  of  the  dead  kept  pace  with  the 
growth  of  the  town.  One  was  at  North  Beach,  on  the  line  of 
Powell  street;  another  of  the  oldest  was  on  the  southeastern  slope 
of  Telegraph  Hill.  Another  on  Russian  Hill  gave  the  name  to 
the  hill,  being  used  as  a Russian  burial-place  in  the  time  of  the 
Russian  Fur  Company’s  establishment  in  San  Francisco.  All 
these  were  in  use  in  1 849  and  later.  As  the  city  grew,  the  author- 
ities set  apart  a plot  of  ground,  bounded  by  what  are  now  Market, 
McAllister  and  Larkin  streets.  This  seemed  well  out  of  the  way 
of  any  possible  expansion.  It  was  difficult  of  access,  as  in  any 
direction  it  could  only  be  reached  over  a succession  of  sand  hills. 
Yerba  Buena  cemetery  was  the  name  given  to  this  plot.  T he 
bones  of  those  buried  at  North  Beach  were  removed  to  this 

[ 1 1 9I 


Cypress  Lawn.  The  Beautiful  Protestant  Cemetery  in  San  Mateo  County. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

cemetery,  and  North  Beach 
cemetery  was  closed  in  1854. 
Of  Yerba  Buena,  Charles  W. 
Stoddard  wrote:  “The  for- 
lornest  of  spots— no  fence  en- 
closed it,  the  sand  sifted  into 
it  and  through  it  and  out  on 
the  other  side.  It  made  graves 
and  uncovered  them.  We 
boys  haunted  it  in  ghoulish 
pairs  and  whispered  to  each  other  as  we  found  one  more  coffin 
coming  to  the  surface,  or  searched  in  vain  for  the  one  we  had 
seen  the  week  before.  There  were  rude  boards,  painted  in  fad- 
ing colors,  and  beneath  lay  the  dead  of  all  nations,  soon  to  be 
nameless.”  Soon  after  the  opening  of  Laurel  Hill  cemetery,  the 
removal  to  it  of  bodies  from  Yerba  Buena  began,  and  in  1870 
the  clearing  of  the  latter  cemetery  was  made  complete  and  the 
ground  was  prepared  for  the  new  City  Hall  which  later  covered 
a part  of  this  site,  as  also  does  City  Hall  Park.  This  spot  is  also 
the  site  of  the  sand-lot  agitation  of  Dennis  Kearney  in  the  early 
Seventies. 

Before  Yerba  Buena  cemetery  fell  into  disuse,  a plot  of 
ground  at  the  base  of  Lone  Mountain  was  bought,  or  taken  under 
squatter's  rights  by  a private  corporation,  for  a new  burial  place. 
It  was  at  first  intended  to  include  the  hill  itself,  making  about 
320  acres  in  all,  but  this  was  cut  down  to  160  acres,  and  later 
reduced  still  further,  the  hill  being  excluded.  The  hill  and 
several  square  miles  around  it,  including  the  original  320  acres, 
were  covered  at  that  time  with  a dense  growth  of  scrub  oak 
which,  Theodore  Hittell  says,  presented  a landscape  of  peculiar 
beauty,  especially  in  contrast  to  the  miles  of  sand  dunes  stretch- 
ing beyond  to  the  ocean.  The  cross  eredled  on  the  hill  marked 
the  vicinity  as  a sacred  spot.  The  cemetery  was  at  first  called 
Lone  Mountain,  but  the  name  was  afterwards  changed  to  Laurel 
Hill.  It  was  opened  with  elaborate  services  and  speeches  by 
prominent  men,  on  May  30,  1854.  At  first  it  was  reached  by  a 
circuitous  route,  nearly  four  miles  in  length,  by  way  of  Pacific 
street  and  the  Presidio.  Later,  Bush  street  was  graded,  planked 


CEMETERIES 

and  the  distance  from  the  Plaza  shortened  to  about  two  miles. 
In  this  cemetery,  a well-kept  and  beautiful  spot,  are  buried 
many  men  prominent  in  the  history  of  San  Francisco;  James 
King  of  William,  Broderick  (who  fell  in  a duel  by  the  hand  of 
Judge  Terry),  Senators  Sargent,  Gwin  and  others.  Handsome 
monuments  and  family  vaults  abound.  After  the  earthquake  and 
fire,  refugees  camped  in  the  cemeteries  the  first  night  or  two  and 
many  a vault  sheltered  the  living  as  well  as  the  dead. 

Calvary  cemetery  (Roman  Catholic)  lies  south  of  Laurel  Hill 
and  east  of  Lone  Mountain.  It  was  opened  in  i860.  Many 
French  and  Italian  names  are  found  here.  There  are  monuments 
with  quaint  inscriptions,  and  many  touching  gravestones  and 
wooden  markers,  containing  pi&ures  of  dead  children,  their  favor- 
ite toys  or  other  pathetic  relics. 

Masonic  and  Odd  Fellows  cemeteries  complete  the  circle 
of  the  hill. 

The  recently  acquired  Lincoln  Park  territory  embraced  the 
old  City  cemetery,  between  Thirty-third  and  Fortieth  avenues, 
just  south  of  the  Cliff  line  car  track. 

Over  in  the  Mission  was  a large  Jewish  cemetery  occupy- 
ing,  approximately,  the  ground  now  covered  by  Mission  Park, 
between  Church  and  Dolores,  Eighteenth  and  Twentieth  streets. 
About  1894  the  bodies  were  removed  to  a Jewish  cemetery  in 
San  Mateo  county. 

Save  in  the  cemeteries  of  the  Presidio,  it  is  no  longer  per- 
mitted to  bury  within  the  city  limits.  The  present  cemeteries,  a 
long  line  of  them,  are  down  the  peninsula,  in  San  Mateo  county: 
Jewish,  Roman  Catholic  and  Protestant,  Italian,  Chinese  and 
Japanese,  most  of  them  beautiful  for  situation,  and  the  most 
important  embellished  by  art  and  nature  to  a point  of  exquisite 
loveliness.  Some  have  pretty 
stone  chapels  near  their  en- 
trances. The  cemeteries  are 
reached  by  Southern  Pacific 
trains  from  Third  and  Town- 
send streets  and  by  street 
cars,  marked  “Cemeteries,” 
from  the  Ferry  Building. 

[I2I1 


Jewish  Cemetery.  Once  Occupying  the  Ground 
of  Mission  Park. 


The  Ferries,  Looking  North. 

Chapter  Eleven  • Public  Buildings 

Of  the  public  buildings  of  San  Francisco,  Federal,  State 
\ and  Municipal,  some  persist  from  the  era  before  the 
| fire,  some  have  been  recently  built,  while  others  are 
not  yet  completed.  All  are  a credit  to  the  city.  The 
Ferry  Building,  which  belongs  to  the  State,  has  been 
described  on  one  of  the  preceding  pages. 

The  United  States  Custom  House.— This  is  a handsome 
building  just  completed,  on  Battery  street,  between  Jackson  and 
Washington.  It  is  of  white  granite,  appropriately  carved,  and 
made  beautiful  within  by  the  lavish  use  of  marble  in  wainscot, 
stairways,  counters  and  columns. 

The  Appraiser’s  Building.— On  Washington  and  Sansome 
streets,  just  west  of  the  Custom  House,  stands  the  fortress-like 
Appraiser’s  Building  which  withstood  the  fire.  In  it  were  stored 
valuable  documents,  and  by  the  most  heroic  efforts  it  was  saved. 
The  Appraiser,  General  John  T.  Dare,  gathered  his  few  men 
together  as  the  fire  approached,  distributing  among  them  any 
vessels  he  could  obtain  which  would  hold  water.  A tank  on  the 
top  of  the  building  supplied  their  needs  and  all  day  long  they 
worked,  putting  out  falling  embers  and  woodwork  as  it  ignited. 

The  Sub-Treasury  Building.— This  is  another  building 
which  dates  from  before  the  fire.  The  second  story  being  damaged 
it  was  removed,  leaving  a low,  square  building.  It  is  on  Com- 
mercial street,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearny  streets.  A new 
Sub-Treasury  Building  is  to  be  eredted  on  the  southwest  corner 
of  Pine  and  Sansome  streets.  It  will  be  of  white  granite  on  a 
darker  base,  the  steel  frame  covered  with  concrete,  and  made 
fireproof  in  every  particular.  The  cost  is  estimated  at  $500,000. 

[122] 


v 


The  Ferry  Tower, 
Looking  Down  Commercial 
Street.  Photograph  by 
Louis  J.  Stellmann. 


Chant  of  the  City  Royal. 

Hail , City!  Mother  City,  hail! 

I greet  thee,  climbing  slow  aloft 
The  twin  and  pointed  peaks  where  oft 
I scanned  thee,  height  and  vale, 

O fair  metropolis!  O shining! 

Whose  limbs,  whose  face , in  light  or  mist. 

The  sun,  the  seas,  the  winds  have  kissed! 

Whence  comes  this  vision,  this  divining 

That  marks  the  towering  years  dilate 

Portentously  august  and  charged  with  wondrous  fate  ? 

Behold  the  town,  behold  her  bay! 

Green,  slumbering  isles  behold,  and  o' er 
Ton  waves  the  fair  and  farther  shore 
And  mountains'  crowned  array . 

The  white,  still  stately  ferries  gliding. 

The  ships  of  sail  at  anchor-rest. 

The  black-hulled  ships  of  steam  abreast 
Their  iron  battle-brethren  riding. 

And  swift  the  fishing-craft  that  leap 

With  dark,  wine-colored  sails  to  drag  the  swarming  deep. 

Roofs  like  the  troubled  seas  ! O spires! 

Domes,  teeming  things  that  upward  lift 
Where  swamps  the  sun  or  purple  drift 
Of  smoke  proclaims  your  fires  ; 

Bright  streets  the  serried  hills  ascending 

Of  marshalled  mansions  gay  or  dumb. 

Traversed  by  engine -wains  that  corjie 
And  go,  their  gleaming  pathway  wending— 

O peaks,  O gardens,  parks  and  squares. 

Wind-wafted  odors  of  the  seas,  and  blithe  Valkyrie  airs! 

* * * 

— Herman  Scheffauer. 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS 

The  Hall  of  Justice.— This  building  is  on  the  east  side  of 
Kearny  street,  opposite  Portsmouth  Square.  It  occupies  the  site 
of  the  former  Hall  of  Justice,  destroyed  April  18,  1906.  It  is  a 
substantial  stru&ure  of  stone,  of  impressive  design  and  hand- 
somely carved. 

Police  headquarters,  police  courts,  criminal  departments  of 
the  superior  court,  and  the  city  prison  are  located  here. 

This  is  the  site  of  El  Dorado,  the  most  famous  gambling 
house  of  early  days,  and  of  the  J enny  Lind  theatres,  two  destroyed 
by  fire,  the  last  becoming  the  City  Hall,  which  in  time  gave  place 
to  the  previous  Hall  of  Justice. 

The  United  States  MiNT.-On  the  corner  of  Mission  and 
Fifth  streets  stands  the  United  States  Mint,  built  in  1874,  of 
brown  sandstone  on  a granite  base.  It  is  open  to  the  public 
between  9 and  11:30  a.  m.,  and  1 and  2:30  p.  m.,  except  Sundays 
and  holidays.  It  is  next  to  the  largest  of  the  United  States  mints, 
being  exceeded  in  size  and  capacity  only  by  the  one  in  Phila- 
delphia. It  has  made  the  record  coinage  because  its  coinage  has 
been  so  largely  in  gold  pieces.  In  fifty  days’  time,  fifty-two  mil- 
lion dollars  was  coined  here,  fifty  millions  in  twenty-dollar  gold 
pieces  and  two  millions  in  ten-dollar  gold  pieces.  Cents  began 
to  be  coined  here  three  years  ago.  Up  to  that  time  only  gold 
and  silver  money  had  been  made.  Cents  were  rarely  given  or 
taken  in  change  in  San  Francisco.  Now  they  are  more  often 
used,  though  by  no  means  universally.  Much  money  has  been 
coined  here  for  the  Philippines— pesos  and  centavos.  At  one  time 
between  twenty-five  and  thirty  million  dollars’  worth  of  pesos 
were  bought  up  by  Japanese  and  Chinese,  because  they  contained 
three  and  one-half  per  cent,  more  silver  than  our  dollars.  They 
remelted  them  and  cast  them  into  ingots,  retaining  the  three  and 
one-half  per  cent,  for  profit. 

Money  became  so  scarce  in 
the  Philippines  that  there 
was  not  enough  for  ordinary 
business.  In  consequence, the 
ingots  were  repurchased  by 
our  Government,  brought 
back  here  and  recoined,  mak- 

I23] 

The  New  Hall  of  Justice,  Opposite  Portsmouth  Square. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

ing  them  a little  smaller  and 
adding  a little  copper.  The 
work  gave  employment  to 
one  hundred  people  for  three 
years. 

The  coin  is  counted  by 
weight.  The  last  time  the 
coin  in  the  vaults  was  counted 
it  took  thirty  days  to  handle 
it.  There  was  $420,000,000. 
Of  course,  every  precaution  is  taken  to  prevent  the  escape  of  any 
of  the  precious  metals.  In  the  adjusting  room  the  carpet  used 
to  be  burned  every  four  or  five  years  to  recover  the  impalpable 
gold  dust  sunk  into  its  meshes.  At  the  last  burning,  the  actual 
value  of  the  gold  recovered  was  $9,500.  Now  the  work  of  adjust- 
ing is  done  by  machinery,  and  very  little  gold  escapes. 

A visit  to  the  Mint  is  of  great  interest.  Courteous  attend- 
dants  escort  the  visitors  through  the  departments  and  explain 
the  various  processes.  There  is  also  on  exhibition  a large  and 
valuable  collection  of  coins,  many  of  them  very  ancient. 

This  building,  of  solid  and  faithful  workmanship,  suffered 
no  serious  damage  through  the  earthquake,  and  was  saved  from 
fire  by  the  heroic  efforts  of  its  employees  and  a small  band  of 
Coast  Artillery,  intelligently  directed  by  Lieutenant  Armstrong 
of  the  Sixth  Infantry,  and  Mr.  Frank  A.  Leach,  superintendent 
of  the  Mint.  Mr.  Charles  A.  Keeler  says  in  San  Francisco  Through 
Earthquake  and  Fire, cc Surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the  burning 
city,  hemmed  in  by  a roaring  sea  of  fire,  for  seven  hours  they 
were  besieged  in  that  fearful  oven,  choked  with  smoke  and  faint 
with  heat.  With  a hand  pump,  forcing  water  from  a basement 
well,  they  wet  down  the  roof  and  upper  story,  but  despite  their 
heroic  stand,  the  fire  broke  through  the  windows,  and  they  were 
forced  to  the  lower  floor,  where  iron  shutters  stayed  the  flames.” 
Shattering  glass,  bursting  blocks  of  granite,  walls  crashing  around 
them  mingled  with  the  roar  of  the  flames  in  a deafening  tumult. 
But  the  whirlwind  swept  by,  the  burning  woodwork  of  the  top 
story  was  extinguished  and  the  Mint  was  saved.  There  was  in 
its  vaults  at  the  time  over  $200,000,000. 


The  United  States  Mint. 


[I24] 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS 

Probably  the  most  dramatic  part  played  by  the  Mint  in  the 
history  of  San  Francisco  was  that  just  following  the  great  fire. 
At  that  time  every  bank  building  was  in  ruins,  the  steel  vault 
doors  were  swollen  shut  with  the  heat,  and  the  concrete  and  steel 
vaults  were  covered  in  many  instances  with  white-hot  debris.  No 
bank  records  were  accessible  and  the  officials  did  not  know  whether 
their  immense  volume  of  money  was  destroyed  by  the  heat,  and 
could  gauge  the  standing  of  their  numerous  depositors  only  by 
a guess  from  a badly  shaken  memory.  It  was  necessary  for  busi- 
ness men  to  have  coin  for  daily  necessities,  and  there  was  abso- 
lutely no  accessible  money  in  San  Francisco,  except  in  the  United 
States  Mint.  By  the  assistance  of  Eastern  correspondents  and 
arrangement  with  the  United  States  Government  at  Washington, 
the  banks  were  able  to  have  small  drafts  converted  into  cash  at 
the  Mint.  The  unprecedented  procedure  was  this:  The  depos- 
itor called  upon  the  officials  of  his  bank  at  their  headquarters, 
which  might  be  in  the  basement  of  a private  residence,  and  asked 
for  the  advance  of  a few  hundred  dollars.  If  the  bank  officials 
recognized  him  as  a regular  depositor  in  good  standing,  they 
would  take  his  note,  payable  at  sight,  for  the  amount  required, 
the  banker  endorsing  the  note,  and  the  depositor  personally  tak- 
ing it  to  the  Mint,  receiving  the  coin  over  the  counter.  There  were 
few,  if  any,  blank  check  books  in  existence  in  the  city,  but  such 
was  the  ingenuity  of  man  that  this  device  served  for  current  pur- 
poses until  the  time  when  the  banks  could  get  their  vaults  open. 

The  Postoffice.— On  Seventh  street,  between  Market  and 
Mission,  is  the  Postoffice  Building.  It  was  several  years  in  the 
course  of  erection  and  opened  with  appropriate  ceremonies  in 
1902.  It  is  one  of  the  handsomest  Federal  buildings  in  the 
United  States,  costing,  with  the  ground,  $5, 000, 000.  It  is  built 
of  white  granite,  decorated 
lavishly  with  mosaics,  choice 
marbles  in  great  variety,  deli- 
cate stucco  and  beautiful  carv- 
ing in  wood,  marble  and  stone. 

Besides  its  main  use  as  a post- 
office,  the  upper  floors  are 
occupied  by  the  United  States 

[ 1 2 5] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


courts.  The  court  rooms  and  judges’  chambers  attached  are  beau- 
tifully finished  in  marble  and  wood  brought  from  every  quarter  of 
the  globe.  These  rooms  are  not  open  for  inspection,  but  a walk 
through  the  upper  corridors,  as  well  as  through  the  lower  floor, will 
repay  the  visitor.  Elevators  at  each  end  of  the  building  make  this 
easy.  Standing  on  filled  ground,  over  what  was  once  a marsh,  the 
postoffice  was  severely  shaken  by  the  earthquake  of  1906,  but  the 
resulting  damage  to  the  building  itself  was  very  slight.  The  build- 
ing was  later  attacked  by  fire,  which  the  employees  subdued. 
There  are  sixty-two  postoffice  sub-stations  in  the  city. 

The  City  Hall.— It  took  less  than  a minute  on  the  morn- 
ing of  April  18,  1906,  to  make  ruin  of  the  City  Hall,  which  had 
cost  $6, 000,000  and  taken  twenty  years  to  build.  Not  that 
the  earthquake  was  exceptionally  strong  at  this  point,  but  the 
design  and  workmanship  of  the  part  that  gave  way  were  excep- 
tionally weak.  An  imposing  structure,  covering  four  acres,  sur- 
mounted by  a lofty  dome,  there  was  built  into  a part  of  its  walls, 
at  least,  faulty  construction  and  dishonest  workmanship.  The 
dome  was  not  properly  braced,  the  heavy  columns  and  walls  sup- 
ported nothing,  the  mortar  was  poor,  and  it  was  small  wonder 
that  they  fell.  Successive  administrations  had  a hand  in  the  build- 
ing, the  damaged  and  undamaged  portions  being  the  work  of 
different  ones,  and  when  the  day  of  trial  came  the  result  lay  open 
for  the  world  to  read.  The  dome  and  Larkin  Street  wing  were 
a mass  of  ruins,  one  bit  of  which,  two  columns  and  the  piece  of 
entablature  above  them,  made  a picture  which  might  easily  be 
mistaken  for  a part  of  the  Roman  Forum.  Fire,  soon  following, 
completed  the  destruction.  A new  City  Hall  is  to  be  ereCted 
near  the  old  site. 

State  Armory.-A  State  Armory  to  be  ereCted  at  Mission 

and  Fourteenth  streets  is  to 
cost  $500,000.  The  build- 
ing, of  impregnable  bastion 
type,  will  include  everything 
needful  for  the  officers,  com- 
panies and  hospital  corps, 
whether  for  work  or  social 
enjoyment. 

T12 


Grant  Avenue  and  Market  Street.  Savings  Union  and  Union  Trust  Company  Banks. 

Chapter  Twelve  • Banks 

In  It  he  City  "That  Is,  the  story  of  how  San  Francisco  was 
rebuilt  in  three  years,  Rufus  Steele  says,“It  is  difficult  to 
see  how  San  Francisco  can  ever  want  for  ready  money, 
when  every  prominent  corner  down  town  is  occupied  by  a 
bank  housed  in  a palace.”  If  that  were  true  two  years  ago, 
and  it  was,  it  is  true  now  with  emphasis.  Taking  them  all  together, 
it  is  doubtful  if  any  city  in  the  world  can  offer  so  many  beautiful 
banks,  both  in  architecture  and  interior  finish  and  furnishings. 
Of  course,  it  is  seldom  that  a city  has  a chance  to  begin  house- 
keeping all  over  again,  with  new  furnishings  throughout,  and 
San  Francisco  has  made  the  most  of  this  opportunity.  The  exte- 
riors of  granite,  marble  and  sandstone,  with  stately  columns  and 
beautiful  carving;  the  interiors  of  richly  colored  marbles,  the 
choicest  wood  and  beautiful  metal  work,  carving  and  mosaic  can- 
not fail  to  impress  the  beholder.  Where  all  are  “palaces,”  it  is 
difficult  to  seleCt  a few  typical  ones.  Some  occupy  sky-scrapers, 
as  the  Humboldt,  the  Metropolis  and  the  Mutual  Savings  banks; 
some  are  in  massive  buildings,  not  so  high,  but  with  fine  archi- 
tectural features,  notably  the  First  National  Bank  at  the  foot  of 
Post  street,  whose  stately  monolithic  columns  are  most  striking; 
while  those  ot  another  class  differ  widely  from  the  old-time 
bank  buildings,  with  the  difference  all  in  favor  of  the  new.  These 
consist  of  a single  lofty  room,  occupying  the  full  height  of  the 
building.  The  magnificent  effeCt  of  space  thus  produced  is  very 
impressive.  Fine  examples  of  this  type  are  theUnionTrustCom- 
pany,  the  Savings  Union  Bank  of  San  Francisco,  at  Grant  avenue 
and  Market  street,  and  the  Bank  of  California,  on  California  and 
Sansome  streets.  The  soft  shades  of  the  marble  interior  of  the 

t 1 2 7 ] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Savings  Union,  the  sparing  use  of  color  and  gilding  and  the  del- 
icate carving  produce  a quiet  and  beautiful  effed:  very  rare  in 
commercial  buildings. 

When  the  Bank  of  California  building  was  completed,  it  was 
said  that  it  was  equaled  by  but  two  bank  buildings  on  the  conti- 
nent-one in  Philadelphia  and  one  in  Canada.  In  1870,  the  Bank 
of  California  opened  in  a small  room  at  the  corner  of  Washington 
and  Battery  streets.  William  C.  Ralston  was  the  commanding 
genius  of  its  rapid  and  great  expansion.  The  tragic  ending  of  his 
life  and  the  fate  of  the  bank  are  a part  of  State  history.  The 
bank  survived  to  grow  into  the  solid  and  potent  institution  which 
it  now  is.  Its  present  magnificent  home  is  but  worthy  housing. 

The  Hibernia  Savings  Bank,  on  Market,  Jones  and  McAl- 
lister streets,  is  touched  with  the  romance  of  former  days.  It  was 
built  with  the  unclaimed  deposits,  so  it  is  said,  of  San  Francisco’s 
Age  of  Gold.  Many  men  lived  then  under  assumed  names,  and, 
dying  or  dropping  out  of  sight,  their  heirs  could  not  be  found. 
The  aggregate  of  their  deposits,  in  the  course  of  years,  reached 
a large  sum.  A law  passed  since  then  makes  it  obligatory  for 
banks,  at  the  expiration  of  a certain  time,  to  publish  the  names  of 
unknown  depositors,  with  the  amount  of  the  deposits  to  their 
credit.  The  walls  of  this  bank  weathered  the  earthquake  and 
fire,  but  the  interior  was  fuel  for  the  flames,  and  it  has  been  com- 
pletely refitted.  Illustrating  the  magnitude  of  the  city’s  banks, 
the  Savings  Union  and  the  Hibernia  Savings  each  has  deposits 
of  about  sixty  millions  of  dollars. 

In  San  Francisco,  there  are  ten  National  banks,  eleven  Sav- 
ings banks,  and  twenty-two  State  and  Trust  banks.  These  are  of 
all  nationalties— German,  French,  Italian,  Portugese,  English, 
Canadian,  Chinese  and  Japanese.  1 1 might  strike  the  casual  observer 

that  the  amount  of  business 
transacted  could  hardly  jus- 
tify so  many  and  such  costly 
buildings,  but  a glance  at  the 
bank  clearings  of  San  Fran- 
cisco will  dispel  any  such  idea. 
They  are  now  approximately 
$50,000,000  a week. 

[128] 


The  Bank  of  California. 


Market  and,  Post 
Streets.  The  Crocker, 
First  National,  and 
Wells-Fargo  Nevada  Na- 
tional Banks. 
Photograph  by 
R.  J.  Waters. 


Chant  of  the  City  Royal . 

* * * 

JJ?ito  thy  bosom's  magnet  vast , 

Firm-centered  in  thy  seven  hills. 

Earth' s ultimate,  quick  iron  thrills 
And  seeks  thee  out  at  last ! 

From  world-ports  all  the  bland  Pacific 

Is  tracked  by  rushing  prows  with  fioam  ; 

They  seek  thy  harbor  and  their  home  ; 

They  seek  thee,  mother  beatific ! 

A thousand  wind-worn  masts  point  high 

And  silken  from  their  polished  spars  the  flaunting  nations fly. 

Our  Hellas  of  the  Western  deep 

Anoints  thee  queen,  nor  long  shall  wait 
The  huge  gestation  of  the  state 
That  lies  in  thee  asleep. 

Tet  great  in  greater  realms  thy  glory— 

Here  Art  shall  rear  a nobler  race 
Than  a?iy  that  hath  built  its  place 
In  nation's  stone  or  nation's  story. 

Spirits  of  native  light  shall  draw 

Compelling  urgings  from  the  breasts  so  holy-hedged  with  awe. 

Soon  may  yon  sundered  oceans  mix 

Their  isthmian  waves,  nor  fend  from  thee 
World-homage  thine— o'er  subject  sea 
And  land—Imperatrix! 

Tongues  of  thy  truest  bards  shall  praise  thee. 

Nurse  valiant  of  the  master  arts. 

For  thou  within  their  minds  and  hearts 
Hast  blown  the  fire  whose  light  repays  thee. 

Bow  to  her,  waves  ! where  midst  your  foam. 

Seven-set  on  circling  hills  she  shines,  our  new,  our  nobler  Rome  ! 

— Herman  Scheffauer. 


Part  of  San  Francisco’ s Sky-line  of  Commercial  Buildings. 

Chapter  Thirteen  • Commercial  Buildings 

San  Francisco  rebuilt,  means  a city  with  far  more  and  far 
finer  commercial  and  office  buildings  than  before  the  fire. 
Having  had  the  chance  to  replace  many  old  buildings 
with  new,  she  has,  as  in  the  case  of  banks,  lived  up  to  her 
opportunity.  Some  of  the  tall  buildings  are  survivors  of 
the  fire,  with  interiors  refitted,  among  these  the  Spreckels  Build- 
ing, the  Mutual  Savings  Bank  Building,  the  Crocker  Building, 
the  Monadnock,  the  Chronicle  and  the  Flood  buildings  on  Mar- 
ket street,  the  Mills  and  Kohl  buildings  on  Montgomery  street, 
and  the  Merchants’ Exchange  on  California  street.  Twenty-seven 
Class  A structures  were  restored,  at  a cost  of  over  $5,500,000. 
With  the  new  ones,  there  are  now  many  more  than  one  hundred 
of  this  class,  as  nearly  fireproof  as  architects  and  engineers  can 
make  them;  still  more  of  Class  B;  while  Class  C runs  into  the 
thousands. 

The  Pacific  Building,  on  the  corner  of  Fourth  and  Market 
streets,  was  said,  when  it  was  built,  to  be  the  largest  reinforced 
concrete  structure  in  the  world. 

The  Flood  Building,  at  the  junction  of  Powell  and  Market 
streets,  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  Baldwin  Hotel.  It  was  nearly 
completed  before  the  fire;  in  fact,  the  basement  and  lower  floors 
were  occupied.  The  walls  were  comparatively  uninjured,  but  it 
was  a task  of  many  weeks  to  clear  out  the  rubbish  within,  before 
the  building  could  be  restored  and  completed. 

In  the  Merchants’  Exchange  are  some  striking  marine  paint- 
ings by  W.  A.  Coulter  of  the  harbors  of  San  Francisco  and  Hono- 
lulu, with  the  famous  old  clipper  ships  which  came  around  the 
Horn  in  the  olden  days. 

Li29] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

On  Stockton  street,  up  on  the  hill  between  Pine  and  Cali- 
fornia, is  the  Metropolitan  Life  Insurance  Building,  small,  but 
with  its  classic  design  adorning  the  site  on  which  it  stands. 

There  are  many  other  handsome  new  business  structures, 
among  which  might  be  mentioned  the  Phelan,  Commercial, 
Emporium,  Jewelers’,  Hewes,  W.  and  J.  Sloane,  Shreve,  and 
Sheldon  buildings. 

A building  of  interest  which  survived  the  fire  is  the  old 
Parrott  Block,  on  the  northwest  corner  of  Montgomery  and  Cali- 
fornia streets.  This  was  built  in  1852,  of  granite  blocks  dressed 
in  China,  and  was  put  up  by  Chinese  workmen  brought  over  for 
the  purpose.  It  was  occupied  by  Wells,  Fargo  and  Company  for 
a good  many  years. 

Another  old  timer  is  the  Montgomery  Block,  on  Mont- 
gomery street,  between  Washington  and  Merchant.  This  was 
built  by  Henry  W.  Halleck,  long  before  the  Civil  War  made  him 
a general.  It  was  called  at  that  time  “the  largest,  most  elegant 
and  imposing  edifice  in  California.”  A row  of  carved  portrait 
heads  between  the  first  and  second  stories  was  the  chief  feature 
of  the  decorations.  Some  of  those  facing  Montgomery  street 
were  injured  by  the  fire;  the  remaining  ones  on  that  side  have 
been  removed  and  are  in  the  museum  in  Golden  Gate  Park. 
Those  on  the  northern  side  of  the  building  are  intaCl. 

In  the  Montgomery  Block  was  stored  at  the  time  of  the 
fire  the  greater  portion  of  the  Sutro  library,  125,000  volumes. 
Thanks  to  solid  walls,  little  inflammable  material  outside,  and 
proximity  to  the  Appraiser’s  Building,  which  the  mighty  efforts 
of  Government  officials  and  employees  saved,  the  block  and  its 
valuable  contents  were  spared.  In  this  building  was  also  Coppa’s 
Restaurant,  frequented  by  artists  and  a literary  coterie,  beloved 

for  its  excellent  cuisine  and 
famed  for  the  fantastic  decor- 
ations of  its  walls.  Though 
this  was  the  only  restaurant 
ofimportance  unburned, bus- 
iness could  not  be  continued 
here  surrounded  as  it  was  by 
acres  of  desolation  and  ruins. 

t1 3°] 


Phelan  Building,  O’Farrell  and  Market  Streets. 


Point  Bonita.  One  of  the  Wardens  of  the  Golden  Gate. 


Chapter  Fourteen  • Unique  Shops 

When  contemplating  the  many  features  of  rehabilita- 
tion which  are  subjects  for  congratulation, the  greater 
number  of  fine  buildings,  the  taste  and  richness  of 
their  decorations,  the  more  spacious  stores  with 
their  rest  and  dressing  rooms  luxurious  and  hygenic 
in  every  detail— with  all  these  to  make  us  glad,  one  regret  arises. 
We  have  lost  Post  street  as  it  was  before  the  fire.  We  have  still 
the  same  attractive  shops,  some  more  beautiful  than  before,  but 
they  are  scattered.  We  cannot  now,  with  a spare  half  hour,  take 
them  all  in,  through  the  windows,  if  we  have  not  time  to  browse 
leisurely  among  them.  It  was  a joy  after  the  prosaic  shopping 
for  the  household  had  been  attended  to,  to  begin  at  Vickery’s 
window,  sure  to  contain  a picture  that  drew  one,  the  window  a 
picture  in  itself,  with  a Venetian  vase  or  ajar  of  oriental  porcelain 
against  some  exquisite  piece  of  drapery;  to  follow  on  past  Elder’s 
and  down  the  block, lingering  at  each  window  to  enjoy  the  beauti- 
ful objeCts  they  contained  and  their  harmonious  arrangement.  In 
Elder’s  were  rare  books,  open  and  shut,  drapery  or  a mat  of  some 
oriental  stuff,  whose  colors  harmonized  with  the  bindings;  near  by, 
ajar  of  the  right  flowers  to  complete  the  harmony.  Sometimes 
the  flower,  branch  or  picturesque  bunch  of  seed-vessels  was  the 
motif,  sometimes  the  books,  sometimes  a picture;  always  the  win- 
dow was  treated  as  a whole  and  the  result  was  beautiful.  Next 
was  a Japanese  store  of  merit;  then  the  sombre  richness  of  ori- 
ental rugs;  and  last  in  the  block,  Marsh’s.  In  one  of  his  windows 
was  always  a screen  of  matchless  Japanese  embroidery,  birds,  per- 
haps, which  seem  clothed  in  feathers,  so  perfeCt  were  the  needle- 
strokes,  cherry  blossoms  in  silk,  with  a blooming  branch  in  the 

[ud 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

suna-bachi  before  them,  or 
iris  growing  on  the  screen, 
with  real  ones  in  the  fore- 
ground; so  like  the  adlual 
were  the  embroidered  flowers 
that  all  seemed  a part  of  the 
same  design.  One  exquisite 
wistaria  screen,  displayed  at 
intervals,  was  recalled  with 
peculiar  regret  when  the  fire 
had  finished  its  work.  That  so  much  beauty  should  perish  use- 
lessly, seemed  wrong.  We  have  walked  several  squares  many 
times,  hoping  to  find  that  screen  in  the  window,  sometimes  to  be 
rewarded.  The  Chinese  stores  are  full  of  wistaria  screens,  but 
there  was  never  another  one  quite  like  that.  Across  the  way  was 
Claxton’s.  Antiques  were  his  specialty,  carved  and  lacquered 
chests,  charming  tables,  artistic  jewelry-all  alluring. 

That  Post  Street  block  has  changed,  but  most  of  the  shops 
that  made  it  fascinating  are  still  to  be  found,  exercising  the  same 
charm  whether  there,  in  temporary  quarters,  or  in  their  new 
homes.  In  the  place  of  two  is  the  beautiful  great  store  of  S.  and 
G.  Gump.  Downstairs  are  exquisite  China,  Sevres  and  Dresden, 
glass  in  all  of  its  most  beautiful  forms,  Chinese  and  Japanese 
objects  of  art  in  rooms  whose  arrangement  and  decorations  are 
Japanese.  Upstairs  are  exhibition  galleries  of  paintings,  a Pom- 
peiian room  of  statuary,  carved  marble  fountains,  benches  and 
urns;  a French  room  of  French  period  furniture,  rooms  of  lamps, 
work  tables,  tea  tables,  tea  wagons,  to  mention  only  a part  of  the 
beautiful  objects.  And  there  are  also  three  rooms,  a Japanese, 
a Korean  and  a Chinese,  which  offer  no  hint  of  things  to  sell. 
The  kimonos  and  mandarin  coats,  the  embroidered  and  brocaded 
draperies  are  behind  the  sliding  panels;  for  that  is  the  charming 
way  with  some  of  these  unique  shops.  Their  commercial  obje6t 
is  so  kept  in  the  background  that  the  visitor  almost  feels  that  he 
has  the  privilege  of  a museum  of  art.  That  this  delightful  method 
of  handling  stock  is  growing  in  favor  with  the  merchant  year  by 
year  is  evidence  that  it  must  be  as  profitable  to  him  as  it  is  pleas- 
ing to  the  customer. 


A Room  of  S.  & G.  Gump’s  Store. 


[*32] 


UNIQUE  SHOPS 

The  new  home  of  Vickery,  Atkins  and  Torrey  is  on  Sutter 
street,  between  Powell  and  Mason  in  their  own  building,  a charm- 
ing place  within  and  without,  designed  by  Mr.  Atkins  of  the  firm. 
A tiny  Italian  garden  invites  you— grass,  a fountain,  roses  and  a 
marble  bench.  This,  an  entrance  to  a place  where  things  are 
sold  ? Yes,  and,  though  there  are  articles  for  the  light  purse  as 
well  as  for  the  heavy  one,  you  will  wish  that  Croesus’  wealth  were 
yours  before  you  come  out.  Nevertheless,  without  it,  if  your 
disposition  is  not  too  covetous,  you  may  spend  an  hour  within 
very  happily,  rejoicing  that  the  world  contains  so  many  beautiful 
things,  people  with  taste  and  skill  to  bring  them  together,  and 
that  you  meet  with  courtesy  unfailing,  whether  you  buy  much, 
little,  or  nothing  at  all.  This  is  one  of  the  few  places  in  the  coun- 
try—the  only  one  in  the  Far  West— where  the  connoisseur  of  fine 
prints  can  find  the  quality  that  he  seeks;  and  where  in  the  paint- 
ing galleries  the  display  of  Mr.  Torrey’s  yearly  gleanings  indicates 
that  each  item  has  been  purchased  wholly  from  the  standpoint 
of  a personal  interest.  No  doubt  Mr.  Vickery  would  rather  sell 
you  a fine  painting,  a carved  oak  cabinet  or  a mahogany  table 
than  explain  to  you  the  porcelains  of  the  different  Chinese  dynas- 
ties, but  you  would  never  guess  it  from  his  manner;  in  fad, 
noticing  the  way  his  fingers  caress  lovingly  the  vase  he  handles, 
or  the  rare  jewel  he  shows  to  you,  and  his  intimate  acquaintance 
with  all  these  beautiful  things,  I think  he,  too,  sometimes  forgets 
that  they  are  here  for  the  purpose  of  being  sold.  In  fad,  my 
belief  is  that  he  parts  from  his  treasures  with  regret! 

The  same  atmosphere  pervades  Paul  Elder’s  beautiful  shop, 
on  Grant  avenue,  between  Post  and  Sutter  streets.  The  artistic- 
ally arranged  window  is  sure  to  attrad  you.  From  the  size  of 
the  front,  you  would  never  guess  the  number  of  beautiful  things 
within.  With  his  publishing 
rooms,  the  shop  occupies  four 
floors.  Books— standard,  new 
and  old-are  on  the  first  floor. 

His  own  unique  publications, 
rare  editions, and  latestthings 
from  the  East  and  abroad 
cover  the  tables  and  shelves. 

[ 1 33] 


A Corner  in  Vickery,  Atkins  & Torrey’s. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

There  are  no  counters.  The  soft  gray  of  the  gothic  room  is  a 
fitting  background  for  the  rich  bindings,  jars  of  flowers  and  pic- 
tures. Children’s  books  are  up  a short  flight  of  stairs  in  front. 
On  the  upper  floors  are  rooms  of  art  treasures,  metal  work,  pot- 
teries, pictures  and  many  other  delightful  things.  When  Lyman 
Abbott  was  here  seven  or  eight  years  ago,  he  said,  in  speaking  of 
the  former  store,  that  neither  in  Europe  nor  New  York  had  he 
seen  a shop  of  like  attractiveness.  This  may  be  said  of  the  pres- 
ent store,  and  in  truth  of  several  of  our  choicest  places. 

The  main  store  of  Mr.  George  T.  Marsh,  importer  of  Japa- 
nese and  Chinese  art  goods,  is  on  the  corner  of  Post  street  and 
Powell.  Here  are  the  choicest  productions  of  oriental  art,  in 
ceramics,  embroidery,  brocades,  metal  work  and  ivory  carvings— 
each  piece  of  artistic  merit,  not  a miscellaneous  collection  of  goods 
manufactured  for  quick  sale.  The  rooms  are  fittingly  and  beauti- 
fully arranged.  He  has  also  a beautiful  store  in  the  Fairmont 
Hotel. 

The  cc  Meiji,”on  Stockton  street,  between  Sutter  and  Post, 
is  a charming  Japanese  store  kept  by  Japanese.  The  fittings  of 
the  place  are  all  Japanese  in  character  and  are  beautifully  carried 
out.  The  stock  is  choice,  much  of  it  consisting  of  articles  not 
found  elsewhere.  Old  Japanese  potteries  are  a specialty  here. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  Kearny  street,  a little  beyond  the 
Chronicle  building,  is  Andrews’  Diamond  Palace,  a glittering 
marvel  of  brillancy.  It  is  the  pet  and  pride  of  Colonel  Andrews, 
a veteran  of  the  Civil  War.  Mirrors  in  walls  and  ceilings  refleCt 
and  re-refleCt  the  cut  glass  chandeliers,  the  panels  of  paintings 
and  cases  of  brilliant  jewels,  until  there  seems  to  be  an  endless 
vista  of  sparkling  and  palatial  rooms.  It  adds  to  the  wonder  to 
know  that  this  is  the  third  cc Palace”  created  by  Colonel  Andrews, 

so  much  alike  in  every  detail 
that  one  could  be  scarcely 
distinguished  from  the  others, 
some  difference  in  the  paint- 
ings being  the  only  variation. 
The  first  was  of  the  era  before 
the  fire,  totally  destroyed,  of 
course,  though  the  stock  was 

[ 1 34] 


One  of  Mr.  George  T.  Marsh’s  Japanese  Rooms. 


Point  Bonita . 

The  foam-lines  flash , the  wind  pipes  free , 
The  city  looms  in  sight; 

The  clouds  drift  in  across  the  lea , 

And  on  the  gray  strand  beats  the  sea , 
Intoning  day  and  night . 

* * * 

Out  on  the  links  I stroll  at  ease , 

And  there  I watch  and  wait. 

As  on  and  off  before  the  breeze 
The  ships  beat  inward  from  the  seas 
And  pass  the  Golden  Gate. 

Around  Tzcin  Peaks,  above  the  town. 

The  misty  vapors  creep; 

And  Russian  Hill  looks  dimly  down 
Where  Alcatraz  and  Fort  Point  frown. 
Grim  warders  of  the  deep. 

And,  looming  up,  Lone  Mountain  lifts 
Its  cone  against  the  sky. 

And  softly  through  the  broken  rifts 
The  sunlight  for  a moment  sifts 
And  gilds  the  cross  on  high. 

* * * 

— Lucius  Harwood  Foote • 


UNIQUE  SHOPS 

saved.  The  second  occupied  a temporary  place  on  Van  Ness 
avenue  soon  after  the  fire. 

Besides  the  various  shops  peculiar  to  San  Francisco,  all  the 
large  stores  are  distinguished  for  beauty  and  convenience  of  equip- 
ment. All  being  new  since  the  fire,  they  embody  the  latest  ideas. 
The  Emporium,  on  Market  street,  is  the  largest  of  the  depart- 
ment stores.  Almost  every  need  can  be  satisfied  under  its  roof. 
On  the  second  floor  is  the  children's  playroom  with  every  device 
for  amusing  children— toboggan  slides,  teeters,  rocking  boats, 
swings,  merry-go-rounds  and  tents.  Here  mothers  when  they 
are  tired  of  shopping  bring  their  children  for  a half-hour's  play. 
There  is  an  excellent  restaurant  on  the  mezzanine  floor.  The 
arcaded  front  of  the  store  lends  itself  beautifully  to  window  deco- 
rations. 

The  White  House,  on  Sutter  street  and  Grant  avenue,  is 
one  of  the  choice  dry  goods  and  department  stores,  and  includes 
a fine  book  department  and  seled;  furniture.  Its  toy  department 
is  a fairyland  for  children,  and  on  the  same  floor  there  is  also  a 
playroom  for  children. 

The  City  of  Paris  is  a very  beautiful  store,  on  the  corner  of 
Geary  and  Stockton  streets.  Along  with  dry  goods  in  every  line, 
gowns  and  millinery,  all  carefully  chosen,  is  a sele&ion  of  hand- 
some furniture.  At  Christmas  time,  when  the  central  dome  is 
filled  with  a great  Christmas  tree,  decorated  and  glittering  with 
a thousand  lights,  the  effe6t  is  dazzling. 

Where  so  many  dry  goods  shops  are  choice,  and  filled  with 
entirely  new  and  beautiful  stocks,  it  seems  invidious  to  name 
only  two  or  three.  The  Lace  House  of  D.  Samuels  and  Sons, 
O’Connor,  Moffatt  and  Company,  Newman  and  Levinson's, 
Magnin's,  are  all  fine  stores  with  stocks  second  to  none. 

Shreve's  beautiful  store 
occupies  the  lower  floors  of 
the  Shreve  Building,  on  the 
corner  of  Grant  avenue  and 
Post  street.  Shreve  is  the 
Tiffany  of  San  Francisco, 
with  every  thingthat  the  name 
Tiffany  implies.  Jewels,  gold 

[ 1 35] 


A Room  of  the  Meiji. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

and  silver  are  on  the  first  floor;  china,  glass,  bronzes,  statuary, 
lamps,  et  cetera,  above.  Already  the  business  has  outgrown  the 
downstairs  floor  space  and  expanded  into  the  next  building. 

The  Opal  Store,  on  Grant  avenue,  between  Post  and  Geary 
streets,  is  a charming  place.  Opals  are  a specialty  here,  as  the 
name  implies,  also  all  sorts  of  jewelry  manufactured  from  abalone 
blisters.  Jewelry  is  made  to  order  from  stones  or  blisters  person- 
ally selected. 

The  bookstore  of  A.  M.  Robertson,  on  Stockton  street  fac- 
ing Union  Square,  almost  deserves  mention  among  the  unique 
shops  for  its  clever  advertisement  of  years'  standing,' “Just  a book- 
store." The  owner  is  not  to  be  drawn  away  by  any  form  of  art,  how- 
ever attractive,  from  the  serious  business  of  making  and  selling 
books;  for  Mr.  Robertson  is  also  a publisher  whose  specialty 
has  been  books  by  California  authors. 

There  are  two  other  excellent  bookstores,  one  on  Sutter 
street  and  Stockton,  the  other  on  Sutter  street,  between  Stockton 
and  Grant  avenue.  These,  with  Robertson's,  Paul  Elder's  and 
the  two  large  book  departments  of  the  White  House  and  the 
Emporium,  speak  well  for  the  serious  side  of  San  Francisco  and 
for  its  love  of  good  reading.  The  latest  novel  may  be  had  from  the 
libraries.  Bookstores  are  supported  by  the  sale  of  something  bet- 
ter, and  nowhere  are  there  better  book  buyers  than  in  San  Fran- 
cisco. To  mention  two  instances,  it  is  said  that  of  Do6torKuyper's 
book  on  The  Holy  Spirit , a heavy  treatise,  one-third  of  all  the 
sales  in  America  were  in  San  Francisco;  and  that,  of  the  books 
of  a well-known  writer  on  Old  Testament  criticism,  more  were 
sold  in  San  Francisco  than  in  either  New  York  or  Philadelphia. 

The  list  might  be  multiplied  indefinitely  to  include  the  cap- 
tivating furniture  Stores,  a fascinating  China  and  house  furnishing 

store,  and  many  others,  but 
they  cannot  all  be  named.  Of 
thosementioned,othersin  the 
same  lines  may  be  as  favor- 
able places  for  shopping.  The 
aim  has  been  to  seled:  a few 
typical  ones,  and  not  to  make 
comparisons. 

[T36] 

The  Book  Room  of  Paul  Elder  & Company. 


Night  in  Chinatown. 


Chapter  Fifteen  • Chinatown 

Not  long  after  the  disaster  of  1906  there  appeared  at 
about  the  same  time  in  two  different  newspapers 
two  short  articles  on  the  Chinatown  ruins,  amusingly 
at  variance  with  each  other.  The  first  in  startling 
headlines  announced:  “ Fire  Lays  Bare  Chinese  Se- 
crets-Burrows  Uncovered  One  Hundred  Feet  Underground,” 
and  in  more  modest  type  below,  there  followed  “ Men- white 
men— never  knew  the  depths  of  Chinatown’s  underground  city. 
They  often  talked  of  these  subterranean  runways  and  many  of 
them  had  gone  beneath  the  street  levels  two  or  three  stories,  but 
now  that  Chinatown  has  been  uncovered,  men  from  the  hillside 
have  looked  on  where  its  inner  secrets  lay.  In  places  they  can 
see  passages  one  hundred  feet  deep.  They  show  depths  which 
the  policeman  never  knew.” 

The  caption  of  the  second  article  was  “Fire  Reveals  China- 
town Fake,”and  ran  as  follows: “Among  the  many  disclosures 
resulting  from  the  great  fire,  that  which  exposed  the  ‘under- 
ground city’  fake  in  Chinatown  will  doubtless  prove  of  interest  to 
more  outsiders  than  any  other.  A feature  of  every  tourist  expedi- 
tion was  a trip  through  the  wonderful  underground  passages  and 
retreats  of  the  Chinese.  The  guides  aroused  the  curiosity  of  the 
Easterners  with  weird  tales  of  the  life  in  the  underground  quar- 
ters and  of  the  great  dangers  incurred  in  visiting  them.  The 
party  would  be  led  through  a series  of  narrow,  winding  hallways, 
through  doors  that  were  unbolted  after  strange  signals,  and  finally, 
down  a flight  of  rickety  stairs,  into  an  ill-smelling  room,  where 
a Chinaman  smoked  opium  for  the  benefit  of  the  visitors.  Now 
the  fire  has  made  of  Chinatown  a waste  and  bared  its  ruins  to 

[ 1 37] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

the  public  gaze,  the  fad  is 
disclosed  that  the  world-re- 
nowned cten  stories  under- 
ground'was  only  a myth.  The 
ruins  show  that  the  Chinese 
quarters  only  had  the  usual 
cellars;  and  none  of  them 
seems  to  be  of  much  greater 
depth  than  the  ordinary  base- 
771^  Bazaars  of  Dupont  street.  ment.  T1  he  reader  may  take 

his  choice  of  the  tales.  If  he  eleds  the  former,  he  will  wish  a 
guide,  for  Chinatown  is  restored  very  much  as  it  was  before,  save 
that  it  is  cleaner,  the  stores  are  larger,  their  stocks  are  finer  and 
more  brilliant.  In  any  case,  for  an  evening  visit,  a licensed  guide 
should  be  obtained,  and  a good  one  will  call  the  visitor’s  atten- 
tion to  many  things  of  interest  which  he  would  probably  fail  to 
see  of  himself. 

The  joss  house  of  the  Chee  Kung  tong,  or  Chinese  Free 
Masons,  on  Spofford  alley,  may  be  visited,  except  when  religious 
or  initiatory  services  are  going  on.  Spofford  alley  is  between  Clay 
and  Washington  streets,  west  of  Dupont. 

The  Chong  family  joss  house  on  Pine  street  is  also  open  to 
visitors.  Other  special  attradions,  besides  the  bazaars,  are  the 
singing  children,  Chinese  musicians  and  a few  opium  dens. 

At  Hang  Far  Low’s  restaurant,  between  Sacramento  and 
Clay  streets,  visitors  may  obtain  chop  suey,  noodles,  Chinese 
sweetmeats  and  delicious  tea,  after  four  in  the  afternoon.  The 
room  for  visitors,  handsome  with  oriental  carving  and  teakwood 
furniture,  is  up  two  flights  of  stairs.  Tea,  with  sweetmeats,  is  also 
served  by  the  Fook  Woh  Company  on  the  second  floor  of  their 
store,  which  is  on  the  corner  of  Dupont  street  and  Sacramento. 

If  the  second  article  quoted  appeals  more  to  the  reader’s 
cast  of  mind,  he  may  assure  himself  that  Chinatown  is  as  safe  as 
any  other  part  of  the  city.  Visitors  are  considered  as  guests  and 
treated  with  resped.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Chinese  exped  con- 
sideration and  respedful  treatment  from  tourists. 

In  some  respeds,  night  is  the  best  time  for  seeing  China- 
town. Artificial  light  lends  a glamor  to  the  oriental  city  within 

t^8! 


CHINATOWN 

a city.  It  is  a busy  place,  with  many  characteristic  occupations  of 
the  Chinese  still  being  carried  on  in  the  evening. 

For  leisurely  shopping,  the  day  is  best,  and  then  one  sees 
more  of  the  women  and  children,  the  latter  usually  attractive, 
especially  if  one  should  chance  upon  a holiday,  and  they  are 
dressed  in  gay  holiday  array.  During  the  day  women  may  visit 
the  streets  and  stores  of  Chinatown  alone  with  perfect  propriety, 
and  pass  interesting  hours  in  the  bazaars,  which  extend  for  two 
blocks,  from  California  to  Clay  street,  most  of  them  on  the  west 
side  of  Dupont  street,  but  one  or  two  fine  ones  on  the  eastern 
side.  Here,  in  gorgeous  and  bewildering  array,  are  silks  and 
embroideries  to  delight  the  eye  and  deplete  the  purse,  ivory  carv- 
ings worthy  the  cabinet  of  an  emperor;  cloisonne,  Satsuma  and 
Canton  wares,  exquisite  lacquer,  brass  and  bronze.  A few  cents 
will  buy  some  pretty  and  artistic  trifle,  or  hundreds  of  dollars 
may  be  spent  in  wondrous  Mandarin  coats,  or  in  screens  wrought 
in  landscape,  flowers,  or  birds,  by  artists  whose  medium  is  needle 
and  thread  instead  of  brush  and  paint.  Alas!  mingled  with  this 
wealth  of  beauty,  one  finds  each  year  more  and  more  of  the  gaudy 
trash  “made  for  the  American  trade.” 

People  usually  imagine  that  the  names  of  these  bazaars  are 
simply  those  of  the  proprietors,  but  each  one  has  a significance. 
Sing  Fat  means  “living  riches;”  Sing  Chong, ccliving  prosperity;” 
Fook  Woh, “happy  harmony;” Wing  Sing  Loong,  “everlasting 
living  prosperity” and  Wa  Sang  Lung,<cnice  living  prosperity.” 

In  the  two  blocks  south  of  the  bazaars  are  several  interest- 
ing  Japanese  shops.  The  better  ones  of  these  are  arranged  with 
artistic  skill. 

Continuing  north  on  Dupont  street,  after  passing  the  bazaars, 
a walk  by  the  Chinese  shops  which  supply  their  own  people  is 
worthwhile.  Thefoodshops, 
with  their  strings  of  tiny  sau- 
sages,glazed  roastduck, dried 
shrimps,  strange  vegetables, 
square  cakes  of  bean  cheese, 
and  fruits  unknown  to  us  are 
very  interesting.  Near  by  are 
confe&ioner’s  stalls  with  can- 

[ 1 39] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


died  cocoanut,  lichi  nuts,  and  bunches  of  sugar-cane.  The  latter, 
cut  in  short  lengths,  seems  to  be  a favorite  sweetmeat  for  small 
Chinese  boys.  Drug  stores  dispense  articles  most  curious  to  our 
eyes,  dried  lizards  and  toads,  shark’s  eggs  pulverized,  to  mention 
a few,  besides  many  kinds  of  herbs  and  roots.  Perhaps  through 
a basement  door  or  window  one  may  see  a goldsmith  at  his  work, 
carving  the  beautiful  Chinese  gold  and  setting  it  with  jade,  or  a 
barber  plying  his  trade  on  the  head  or  ears  of  his  vidim. 

With  the  new  republic  the  Chinese  have  abolished  their 
ancient  calendar,  and  henceforth  their  New  Year  will  coincide 
with  our  own.  Hitherto  the  Chinese  New  Year  has  been  a great 
holiday  season  in  Chinatown.  It  began  early  in  February  and  a 
week  of  hospitality  and  merry-making  followed.  Before  this  holi- 
day week  all  accounts  had  to  be  squared.  A Chinaman  whose 
debts  were  not  settled  before  his  New  Year  began  counted  him- 
self disgraced.  At  street  stalls  and  in  all  the  stores  and  houses 
the  sacred  lily  was  in  bloom,  it  being  considered  the  harbinger  of  a 
prosperous  year.  Except  in  the  big  bazaars,  little  regular  business 
was  transacted.  Merchants,  their  wives  and  children,  were  on 
the  streets,  in  rich  and  beautiful  costumes,  particularly  the  chil- 
dren. A proud  father  might  have  been  seen  walking  between 
two  little  boys,  one  in  green  silk  coat  and  lilac  silk  trousers,  the 
other  in  yellow  coat  and  blue  trousers,  the  father  himself  in  hand- 
some plum  color  brocade,  and  carrying  in  his  arms  a baby  girl,  a 
gay  combination  of  all  the  colors,  a fringe  of  pearl  beads  depend- 
ing from  her  cap,  and  framing  her  pretty  cheeks,  on  each  of  which 
glowed  a round  carmine  spot,  applied  not  to  enhance  the  smooth 
baby  complexion  but  merely  for  decorative  effed. 

To  one  who  has  been  fortunate  enough  to  see  an  important 
oriental  procession,  the  sight  is  unforgetable.  A few  years  ago 


Chinese  and  Japanese  were 
features  of  a great  civic  pa- 
rade held  in  San  Francisco. 
“Parlors”  and  “eyries”  and 
lodges  of  all  sorts  vied  with 
each  other  in  pretty  and  fan- 
tastic array;  cheese-cloth  and 
cambric  and  tissue  paper  were 


Father  and  the  Baby  Girl. 


Chinatown  and  the 
Flags  of  the  New  Republic 
Which  Replace  the 
Old  Dragon  Flags  of  the  Em- 
pire. Photograph 
by  Louis  J.  Stellman. 


Chinatown . 

* * Color  was  everywhere . A thousand  little  notes  of  green 
and  yellow , of  vermilion  and  sky  blue,  assaulted  the  eye.  Here 
it  was  a doorway,  here  a vivid  glint  of  cloth  or  hanging,  here  a 
huge  scarlet  sign  lettered  with  gold,  and  here  a kaleidoscopic  ef- 
fect in  the  garments  of  the  passers-by . * * Gigantic,  pot-bellied 
lanterns  of  red  and  gold  swung  from  the  ceiling . * * The  air 
was  vibrant  with  unfamiliar  noises.  From  one  of  the  balconies 
near  at  hand  a gong,  a pipe  and  some  kind  of  a stringed  instru- 
ment wailed  and  thundered  in  unison.  There  was  a vast  shuf- 
fling  of  padded  soles  and  a continuous  interchange  of  singsong 
monosyllables,  high-pitched  and  staccato,  while  from  every  hand 
rose  the  strange  aroma  of  the  East— sandalwood,  incense,  oil,  the 
smell  of  mysterious  cookery.  — From  “Blix,”  by  Frank  Norris. 


CHINATOWN 

called  upon  to  do  their  best;  but  how  cheap  and  tawdry  they 
were  compared  to  the  wondrous  beauty  of  texture  and  color  of  the 
Chinese  robes  and  the  gorgeous  embroidery  of  their  banners,  or 
the  dainty,  cherry-blossom  floats  of  the  Japanese,  preceded  by 
horsemen  in  Samurai  costumes  four  hundred  years  old!  Disdain- 
ing merely  to  produce  with  cheap  materials  an  effed:  for  the  time 
being,  the  Chinese  went  to  the  bottom  of  their  treasure  chests 
and  brought  out  their  priceless  embroideries  and  beautiful  silk 
and  crepe  robes  of  every  exquisite  shade  imaginable;  while  a Jap- 
anese warship  was  none  too  dignified  an  escort  for  the  invaluable 
Samurai  costumes  loaned  for  the  occasion  by  theTokio  Museum. 

The  population  of  Chinatown  is  about  15,000.  It  may  be 
reached  by  walking  north  on  Grant  avenue.  California  and  Sacra- 
mento Street  car  lines  cross  Chinatown,  and  cars  on  Kearny  or 
on  Powell  street  pass  within  a block  or  two.  The  clinker-brick 
building  at  920  Sacramento  street  is  the  Home  of  the  Woman’s 
Occidental  Board  of  Missions,  for  Japanese  and  Chinese  girls. 
Here  are  from  forty  to  fifty  children  or  young  girls,  many  rescued 
from  slavery,  dreadful  abuse,  and  dens  of  vice,  by  the  devoted  and 
dauntless  superintendent,  Miss  Donaldina  Cameron,  who  counts 
no  danger  too  great  if  thereby  she  may  hope  to  save  one  of 
these  girls.  Pages  might  be  filled  with  thrilling  stories  of  these 
rescues.  Will  Irwin  has  vividly  related  some  of  them  in  appre- 
ciative tributes  to  Miss  Cameron.  The  results  of  the  training 
given  to  the  girls  in  the  Home  are  such  that  she  feels  herself 
richly  rewarded  for  the  risks  she  encounters.  The  children  are 
docile,  bright  and  attractive  and  respond  quickly  to  instruction. 
It  should  be  said  that  many  Chinese  are  in  sympathy  with 
this  work  and  contribute  to  it.  It  is  not  unusual  for  information 
about  girls  in  slavery  to  be  brought  to  the  Home  by  a China- 
man of  Chinatown.  Visitors 
are  welcome  at  theHome.  On 
the  first  Monday  of  every 
month  is  the  regular  meeting 
of  the  Board  and  in  the  after- 
noon are  special  exercises  by 
the  children,  which  always 
interest  the  stranger. 

[Hi] 

Selling  Almond  Blossoms  for  New  Year. 


California  Street — Nob  Hill  Crowned  With  the  Fairmont  Hotel. 

Chapter  Sixteen  • Hotels 

It  is  a far  cry  from  the  old  adobe  City  Hotel  of  1849,  where 
Stephen  J.  Field  paid  thirty-five  dollars  a week  for  his 
eight  by  ten  room,  to  the  Fairmont,  the  St.  Francis  and 
the  Palace  hotels  of  to-day.  When  the  discovery  of  gold 
increased  the  population  from  five  hundred  in  1848  to  fif- 
teen thousand  in  1849,  hotels  sprang  up  like  mushrooms  in  a 
single  night,  at  first  flimsy  strudures  of  canvas  and  boards,  then 
abandoned  ships,  roofed  over  and  made  habitable.  The  Parker 
House  rose  on  Kearny  street,  opposite  Portsmouth  Square,  then 
the  Ward  House  near,  and  the  Graham  House,  both  brought 
bodily  around  the  Horn,  each  an  improvement  upon  its  prede- 
cessors. The  last  two  with  the  St.  Francis  were  far  ahead  of  any- 
thing previously  provided.  Sleeping  apartments  of  the  St.  Francis 
were  the  best  in  California,  making  it  a worthy  forerunner  of 
its  later  namesake.  A few  years  later  the  Oriental  stood  at  the 
jun&ion  of  Battery  and  Bush  streets.  Pioneers  will  remember 
this  and  its  contemporary,  the  Tehama  House,  on  the  present 
site  of  the  Bank  of  California.  John  Phoenix,  an  early  Western 
humorist,  known  in  real  life  as  Lieutenant  Derby,  perpetuated 
the  latter  in  A Legend  of  the  Tehama  House . The  International 
was  for  many  years  a first-class  hotel  on  the  corner  of  Kearny 
and  Jackson  streets.  Then  came  Woodward’s  famed  What  Cheer 
House,  which  lasted,  far-fallen  from  its  best  estate,  until  the  fire. 
It  stood  on  the  corner  of  Sacramento  and  LeidesdorfF streets.  It 
was  conduced  upon  curious  lines,  but  was  very  popular,  especi- 
ally among  miners  and  farmers,  and  Woodward  made  a great 
fortune  there.  Only  men  were  entertained;  no  woman  was  ever 
seen  on  the  premises;  but  no  man,  whether  he  could  pay  or  not, 

P42] 


HOTELS 

was  ever  turned  away.  The  rooms  were  plainly  furnished,  but 
were  kept  scrupulously  clean.  It  was  the  first  house  in  San 
Francisco  to  be  run  on  the  European  plan.  There  was  a good 
museum  conne&ed  with  it,  and  a fine  library  free  to  the  whole 
town.  “ Here,”  said  S.  D.  Woods, “have  I seen,  bending  over  their 
books,  Mark  Twain  and  Bret  Harte  and  others  of  lesser  fame, 
together  with  judges,  doctors  and  lawyers.  This  was  the  only 
free  library  in  San  Francisco  at  that  time.” 

In  1862  the  Lick  house  was  built  on  Montgomery  street 
by  James  Lick,  upon  lots  he  had  acquired  soon  after  his  arrival 
here  in  1847.  The  owner,  a cabinet-maker  by  trade,  personally 
did  much  of  the  work  on  the  interior  finish  of  the  dining  room, 
and  it  was  said  at  the  time  of  its  completion  to  be  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  banquet  halls  in  the  United  States. 

About  this  time  the  Russ  House  and  the  Occidental  Hotel 
were  built,  also  on  Montgomery  street.  The  latter  was  a favorite 
with  the  army  and  navy  people,  and  here  in  1888  Robert  Louis 
Stevenson  and  his  family  spent  a short  time  before  embarking  on 
the  Casco  for  the  South  Seas.  A pretty  feature  of  this  hotel  was 
the  bunch  of  fresh  flowers  in  the  room  to  welcome  each  incoming 
guest,  and  the  basket  which  always  accompanied  the  outgoing 
traveler-of  fruit,  if  the  journey  was  to  be  by  sea;  a dainty  lunch- 
eon, if  by  rail. 

The  California  Hotel,  on  Bush  street,  was  an  attractive  and 
well-kept  place. 

But  the  Palace  was  the  hotel  by  which  San  Francisco  was 
known  the  globe  around.  It  used  to  be  said  that  you  could  sit 
in  the  old  lobby  a year  and  a day  and  see  the  whole  world  pass 
in  procession  before  you.  Certainly  you  could  in  that  time  see 
representatives  of  every  civilized  nation  under  the  sun.  The 
hotel  was  begun  in  1874  by 
William  C.  Ralston.  An  un- 
pretentious Catholic  church, 

St.  Patrick’s,  was  moved,  to 
provide  the  site;  before  the 
church  was  built  in  1851,  a 
huge  sand-hill  occupied  the 
place.  In  1875  Palace 

143] 


The  New  Palace  Hotel,  the  Monadnock  and 
Spreckels  Buildings. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

was  finished  and  was  run  for 
several  years  at  a loss,  the 
need  for  such  a hotel  not 
having  then  arrived.  So  well 
was  it  built  that  $90,000  was 
paid  to  raze  the  walls  in  prep- 
aration for  the  present  build- 
ing. The  central  court  opened 
to  the  skylight,  with  balco- 

The  St.  Francis  Hotel,  Facing  Union  Square.  nieS  SUtrOUnding  it  On  every 

floor.  Originally  the  court  was  used  as  a driveway  for  carriages. 
Later  it  was  made  a luxurious  lounging  place  with  rugs,  softly 
cushioned  sofas  and  chairs,  and  great  palms  in  tubs  here  and  there. 

The  hotel  had  its  own  system  of  fire  protection,  its  own  fire 
engines  and  its  own  water  from  artesian  wells.  On  that  dreadful 
morning  in  April,  1906,  its  employees  fought  bravely,  intelli- 
gently and  successfully  until,  after  the  city  water  was  exhausted, 
their  water  supply  was  taken  by  the  city  firemen  in  the  vain 
endeavor  to  save  surrounding  buildings. 

The  new  hotel  preserves  the  great  palm  court  which  was 
the  marked  feature  of  the  old  building.  Its  public  rooms  are 
magnificent  and  its  private  rooms  luxurious  in  every  appoint- 
ment. A beautiful  pi&ure  of  the  “Pied  Piper  of  Hamlin,”  by 
Maxfield  Parrish,  adorns  the  bar.  It  is  not  unusual  for  ladies, 
accompanied  by  gentlemen,  to  visit  the  room  for  the  purpose  of 
seeing  this  picture.  The  Palace  has  688  rooms  and  suites. 

The  St.  Francis,  a no  less  popular  and  luxurious  hotel,  is 
fortunate  in  its  situation,  fronting  as  it  does  on  Union  Square. 
All  that  could  burn  went  up  in  flames  in  1906,  but  the  walls 
were  uninjured  and  refitting  was  begun  almost  as  soon  as  the 
stones  were  cool.  Work  had  previously  begun  on  the  third  wing 
and  this,  too,  was  pressed  forward.  The  St.  Francis  has  now  700 
rooms  and  suites,  and  the  number  will  reach  1,000  when  the 
fourth  wing  which  is  now  planned  is  added.  It  will  then  be  one 
of  the  largest  hotels  in  the  world,  as  it  is  now  one  of  the  most 
delightful.  The  Tapestry  room,  with  its  soft  blue  walls  and  carved 
gray  stone  pillars,  is  the  most  beautiful  hotel  room  in  the  city; 
and  the  lobby  and  the  Colonial  ballroom  are  very  handsome. 


HOTELS 

The  Fairmont  crowns  an  incomparable  site  on  Nob  Hill,  a 
beautiful  building,  noticeable  from  the  bay,  and  from  many  parts 
of  the  city,  while  the  view  from  the  hotel  embraces  a wonderful 
vista  of  city,  bay,  the  Golden  Gate  and  the  distant  hills.  It  was 
built  by  the  two  daughters  of  the  late  James  G.  Fair,  and  nearly 
completed  at  the  time  of  the  fire.  There  was  nothing  to  ignite 
outside,  but  the  devouring  flames  rushed  through  it,  as  through 
a chimney,  eating  up  what  little  inflammable  material  was  within. 
When  the  work  of  restoration  and  completion  was  over  we  had 
the  third  of  our  great  hotels;  one  without  a rival  in  architecture 
and  situation,  in  this  country,  at  least.  It  has  between  five  and 
six  hundred  rooms  and  suites,  each  with  a bath.  The  beautiful 
ballroom,  the  Norman  banquet  room  opening  on  the  terrace,  the 
dining  room  with  every  window  framing  a picture  of  the  bay  and 
the  pretty  laurel  tea  room  are  some  of  its  attractive  features.  ( 

On  one  of  the  basement  floors,  reached  by  an  elevator  from 
the  Powell  Street  entrance,  is  a series  of  Japanese  rooms  contain- 
ing an  exhibit  of  beautiful  Japanese  embroideries,  silverware,  lac- 
quers, bronzes,  jewelry,  porcelains— the  choicest  of  the  artistic 
products  of  Japan.  Exhibit?  No,  it  is  really  a shop— though, 
looking  through  its  carved  entrance  into  the  vista  of  rooms  be- 
yond, you  would  not  dream  it.  You  are  invited  to  examine  at 
your  leisure  the  rooms  themselves  and  the  beautiful  things  which 
adorn  them  and  you  are  never  made  to  feel  uncomfortable  if  the 
things  you  covet  do  not  fit  your  purse.  Besides  the  exquisite 
articles,  there  are  many  pretty  things  of  moderate  price  and  not 
one  of  them  is  commonplace.  The  shop  is  that  of  George  T. 
Marsh,  whose  main  store  is  at  Powell  and  Post  streets. 

Other  hotels  might  be  mentioned:  The  Stewart  (favored  by 
army  and  navy),  the  Argonaut  (owned  by  the  Society  of  Pio- 
neers), the  Manx  and  many 
others-1,237  in  all,  contain- 
ing 60,000  rooms,  ninety  per 
cent,  new  and  up-to-date  in 
every  detail.  And  the  build- 
ing still  goes  on.  Our  Expo- 
sition guests  will  all  be  safely 
and  comfortably  housed. 

r 1 45 1 


The  Fairmont,  on  the  Summit  of  Nob  Hill. 


From  the  Walls  of  the  Old  Coppa’s  Restaurant,  in  the  Montgomery  Block. 

Chapter  Seventeen  • Restaurants 

When  San  Francisco  restaurants  are  mentioned  in  the 
hearing  of  a San  Franciscan,  or  of  one  who  has 
once  tasted  of  their  fascination,  the  words  conjure 
up  pi&ures  of  inimitable  institutions,  not  to  be  con- 
fused with  eating  places  elsewhere.  For  many  of 
the  San  Francisco  eating  places  have  a story  and  a charm  which 
make  them  a distindt  feature  of  an  unusual  city;  and  from  the 
days  of  Winn’s  Fountain  Head,  the  original  Poodle  Dog,  Peter 
Jobs,  and  the  Jury  Brothers’ down  to  these  days,  they  have  borne 
an  unusual  part  in  the  city’s  life. 

The  first  Poodle  Dog  was  the  Rotisserie  kept  by  an  old 
Frenchwoman  in  a board  shanty  on  Dupont  street,  near  Clay. 
She  had  a long-haired  poodle  dog  which  was  her  constant  com- 
panion. Her  well-cooked  viands  were  popular  with  the  miners 
when  they  came  to  San  Francisco  with  their  bags  of  gold  dust  to 
exchange  for  some  of  the  comforts  of  civilization.  Her  foreign 
name,  unpronounceable  by  their  unaccustomed  tongues,  was  soon 
discarded.  They  said  to  each  other, “Let’s  go  to  the  Poodle 
Dog,”  and  the  name  caught  the  popular  fancy.  Like  all  good 
things,  it  had  imitators,  and  there  have  been  no  less  than  four 
Poodle  Dogs  and  two  Pups,  each  claiming  to  be  a diredt  descend- 
ant of  the  original.  Like  “stridlly  fresh  eggs,”  “fresh  eggs”and 
plain  “eggs,”  we  have  now  the  Old  Poodle  Dog,  the  New  Poodle 
Dog  and  plain  Poodle  Dog. 

Winn’s  Fountain  Head  and  branch,  on  the  corner  of  Wash- 
ington and  Montgomery  streets,  were  very  popular  in  the  early 
Fifties.  No  intoxicating  drinks  were  sold  in  either  place.  The 
branch  catered  mainly  to  ladies,  with  ice  cream,  cake  and  other 

[i46] 


Palm  Court  of 
the  Present  Palace  Hotel. 


The  San  Francisco  Fog 

Morning,  fellow  San  Franciscan l Here’s  my  greeting  to  you!  Shake! 
F m an  exiled  sort  of  relic  from  the  Days  Before  the  Quake, 

When  old  Chinatown  was  greasy,  when  old  Market  Street  was  wood. 
When  half  the  town  war  restaurants,  and  all  of ’em  were  gooa. 

Come,  you  envoy  from  my  Touthland,  turn  my  memory  back  a cog — 
Can’t  you  blow  me  up  a hatful  of  that  San  Francisco  fog? 

Oh,  that  fog,  fog! 

How  it  used  to  fill  my  brain 
With  a frantic  and  romantic 
Sort  of  Orient  refrain. 

O’  er  the  hilly  streets  and  chilly , 

Energizing  as  a nog. 

Blew  the  soul  of  San  Francisco 
In  her  fog,  in  her  fog. 

* * * 

Foreign  wines  are  better,  maybe— though  I love  your  native  stock 
From  the  Santa  Clara  claret  to  the  Napa  Valley  hock. 

But  there’s  nothing  alcoholic  you  can  send  me,  if  you  please. 

Not  from  Luna’s-by-the-Peppers  or  from  Coppa’ s-by-the- Frieze, 

That  will  be  to  me  more  welcome  as  a soul-inspiring  grog 
Than  a long,  rare,  ice-cold  bottle  labeledtcSan  Francisco  Fog.” 

In  the  fog,  in  the  fog, 

I can  revel  to  the  last. 

Nor  a headache  nor  a heartache 
Will  remain  when  it  is  past. 

Here’s  the  salt  on  wild  Pacific, 

Where  Adventure  lurks  incog— 

Come,  you  ghost  of  Robert  Louis, 

In  the  fog,  in  the  fog! 

— Wallace  Irwin 


RESTAURANTS 

dainty  refreshments.  Three  thousand  people  were  served  daily 
in  the  two  establishments.  Mr.  Winn  came  here  by  way  of  the 
Isthmus  in  1849.  He  made  his  start  by  selling  on  the  street  the 
candy  of  his  own  manufa&ure,  advertising  his  wares  with  the 
cry, “Here  is  your  own  California  candy!  It  has  neither  come 
’round  the  Horn  nor  across  the  Isthmus,  but  is  made  in  your  own 
city,  and  none  but  Winn  can  make  it.  Buy  it,  taste  it,  try  it!” 

A little  later  than  Winn’s  restaurant  was  Peter  Job’s  on 
Washington  street,  opposite  Portsmouth  Square.  The  restaurant 
was  plain,  but  food  and  service  were  excellent,  and  it  was  a favor- 
ite place  for  the  ladies. 

At  about  the  same  period,  on  Merchant  street  near  Mont- 
gomery, was  a small  place  kept  by  three  Swiss,  the  Jury  brothers. 
This  was  a favorite  place  for  lawyers,  judges  and  other  profes- 
sional men.  A man  could  reserve  a table  at  Jury’s,  walk  over 
to  the  Clay  Street  Market  opposite  and  choose  his  food,  return 
with  it  in  his  arms  and  have  it  cooked  to  his  order,  paying  only 
for  the  service.  The  dinners  of  congenial  companions  here  often 
lasted  from  six  o’clock  until  midnight. 

French  chefs  came  from  France  in  early  days  and  opened 
restaurants  of  their  own.  They  found  markets  stocked  with  the 
good  things  of  earth-fish,  game,  fruit  and  vegetables  in  great 
variety  and  abundance.  They  found  patronage  waiting  for  them- 
miners,  gentlemen  adventurers,  Spanish  and  Mexican  grandees, 
who  had  gold  and  silver  in  plenty  and  were  prodigal  in  spending 
it.  So  they  stayed  on;  Chinese  cooks  learned  their  art,  Italian 
chefs  followed,  Spanish  and  Mexican  cooks  were  here  already, 
and  in  a city  where  the  chief  grocery  store  aimed  to  keep  such  a 
stock  that  the  citizen  of  any  country  of  the  globe  could  call  for 
his  country’s  especial  food  or  condiment,  and  find  it,  one  may  be 
sure  that  the  restaurants  were 
not  behind  in  catering  to  the 
cosmopolitan  population.  It 
is  possible  in  San  Francisco  to 
dine  orlunch  in  any  language; 
to  eat  the  especial  dishes  of 
any  civilized  country.  You 
may  have  an  Italian  dinner, 

[ 1 47] 


The  Tait-Zinkand  Restaurant. 


Our  First  Restaurants  After  the  Fire. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

as  national  in  its  dishes  and 
cooking  as  if  eaten  in  Siena, 
a Spanish  or  Mexican  meal 
as  characteristic,  a German, 
a French,  a Chinese  if  you 
like,  or  even  a Turkish.  Or, 
you  may  find  the  bill  of  fare 
of  some  large  restaurant  as 
cosmopolitan  as  the  patron- 
age, and  see  on  one  and  the 
same  sheet  Italian  risotto,  Mexican  enchiladas,  Hungarian  gou- 
lash, German  sauer  beef,  the  rest  divided  between  French  and 
American  dishes. 

The  fire  of  1906  made  a clean,  impartial  sweep  through  the 
old  favorites;  only  one  escaped  destruction,  but  San  Francisco 
could  not  do  without  her  restaurants,  and  soon  they  were  spring- 
ing up  everywhere,  in  hastily  constructed  shelters  of  board  or 
canvas  or  in  houses  made  over  for  the  purpose.  As  the  days 
went  by,  they  grew  more  elaborate,  and  in  a few  months  many 
of  them  were  in  full  swing,  with  food  and  service  as  good  as  ever. 
They  moved  down  town  from  their  temporary  quarters  when 
the  merchants  did  and  many  are  now  in  the  old  places.  There 
have  been  a few  changes  and  some  consolidations,  as  Tait  and 
Zinkand,  the  Portola  and  the  Louvre.  Tait’s,  before  the  fire, 
was  in  the  Flood  Building,  where  the  Portola-Louvre  is  now, 
and  there  is  no  room  at  present  as  effective  as  that  was,  with  its 
cascades  and  fountains  and  play  of  the  electric  lights.  But  the 
Portola-Louvre  is  a brilliant  French  restaurant,  gilding  its  excel- 
lent cuisine  with  a fine  orchestra,  and  vaudeville  during  the  late 
afternoon  and  evening.  Ladies  go  there  in  the  afternoon  for  tea, 
and  to  enjoy  the  entertainment. 

The  Tait-Zinkand  restaurant  is  thoroughly  San  Franciscan, 
high-class  but  semi-Bohemian.  The  food  is  unsurpassed,  the 
room  is  gaudily  decorated,  an  orchestra  in  a gallery  gives  good 
music,  while  singers  go  about  on  the  floor  below  and  sing  near 
one  table  and  then  another.  This  restaurant  is  a notable  sight  on 
New  Year’s  Eve;  tables  are  engaged  here  and  at  other  leading 
restaurants  for  weeks  in  advance.  New  Year’s  Eve  is  observed 

[H8] 


RESTAURANTS 

in  San  Francisco  more  vociferously  than  in  any  other  city,  yet 
most  of  the  jollity  is  pure  fun.  There  is  little  real  dissipation 
among  the  revelers. 

Techau’s  is  a handsomely  furnished  restaurant,  with  cuisine 
and  music  of  the  best. 

The  Old  Poodle  Dog  has  the  best  of  French  cooking,  a 
good  orchestra,  and  keeps  up  the  reputation  of  the  name. 

Marchand’s  has  been  recently  rebuilt  and  is  a high-grade 
French  restaurant  of  a more  conventional  pattern  than  the  others, 
not  so  distinctively  San  Franciscan. 

Jules’  restaurant  and  Jack’s  rotisserie  are  French  restaurants 
of  good  reputation  for  cooking  and  service,  well  known  to  all 
San  Franciscans. 

Louis’  Fashion  restaurant  must  not  be  omitted,  because  he 
is  the  Louis  of  the  Hotel  de  France,  immortalized  by  Will  Irwin 
in  The  City  That  Was,  because  his  fish  and  steaks  and  salads  are 
prepared  with  discrimination,  and  lastly,  because  of  the  absurd 
name  which  was  borne  by  his  Fashion  restaurant  before  the  fire 
and  which  has  now  spread  to  as  many  different  places  as  the  name 
of  the  Poodle  Dog.  Though  his  cooking  was  good,  the  care  of 
his  dining  room  was  not  all  it  should  be,  and  flies  were  more  or 
less  in  evidence.  Some  one  called  it  the <c Fly-Trap.”  The  name 
clung,  but  it  drove  no  one  away,  and  soon  the  original  name, 
though  on  the  doors  and  windows,  was  forgotten.  A waiter  from 
Louis’  started  a restaurant  of  his  own  after  the  fire,  and  named  it 
“Charley’s  Fly-Trap.”  Another  sprang  up,  and  another,  the  name 
evidently  carrying  with  it  no  opprobium,  only  the  memory  of  the 
good  cooking  and  reasonable  prices  of  the  restaurant  which  origi- 
nally bore  it.  They  are  all  good  places,  with  low  prices  and,  from 
the  Fashion  down,  have  no  relations  whatever  with  flies. 

Of  the  Italian  restau- 
rants, Coppa’s  heads  the  list, 
in  interest  at  least.  It  is  the 
one  important  restaurant  not 
burned,  but  it  is  gone  from 
the  old  spot.  There  is  a new 
Coppa’s,  where  the  food  is  as 
good  as  ever  but  otherwise  it 

[ 1 49] 


The  Portola-Louvre  Restaurant. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

is  a vain  endeavor  to  bring 
back  Coppa’s  as  it  was.  The 
pi&ures  lack  spontaneity; 
they  are  painted  to  order  in 
absurd  imitation  of  the  orig- 
inal outbursts  of  the  artist 
frequenters  of  the  old  place- 
all  but  one.  Near  the  door 
is  a picture  of  the  last  reunion 
in  the  Montgomery  Block 
of  the  kindred  spirits  who  had  so  often  dined  together.  Perhaps 
the  faces  are  all  portraits.  Martinez  is  easily  recognized,  at  the 
head  of  the  table,  lifting  high  his  glass  for  the  last  toast.  In  the 
shadow  lurks  the  soldier  sentinel,  a grim  reminder  of  the  miles 
of  desolation  outside.  The  place  was  beloved  by  artists  and 
writers,  and  frequented  by  others  who  went  there  to  see  the 
“lions,”  to  enjoy  with  them  the  Italian  cooking,  and  to  wonder  at 
the  curiously  decorated  walls.  Each  artist,  according  to  his  fancy, 
and  as  the  spirit  moved  him,  had  painted  a pi&ure  and  added  a 
legend,  perhaps  of  his  own,  perhaps  supplied  by  one  of  his  liter- 
ary brothers.  The  quotations  were  in  all  languages  and  ranged 
from  Alice  in  W onderland ,“cCuriouser  and  curiouser,’ said  Alice,” 
to  Greek  classics.  One,  from  Oscar  Wilde’s  Salome  “ Something 
terrible  is  going  to  happen,” offered  grim  but  unheeded  prophecy 
of  the  great  catastrophe  to  come.  The  place  was  so  interesting 
that  the  food  might  have  gone  uncriticised  had  it  not  been  of  the 
best,  which  it  was.  The  fish  and  sauces,  the  chicken  en  casserole 
and  the  fried  cream  were  something  to  be  remembered. 

The  Montgomery  Block  passed  through  the  fire  nearly 
unscathed,  but  it  stood  in  the  midst  of  smoking  ruins  and  miles 
of  almost  impassable  debris.  No  citizens  were  permitted  upon  the 
streets  at  night,  there  were  no  lights  but  the  stars  and  the  sol- 
diers’ campfires.  A few  nights  after  the  fire  had  passed,  twelve 
of  the  old  number  obtained  permission  of  the  officer  in  charge  to 
meet  once  more  in  the  old  place.  The  table  was  spread,  candles 
furnished  the  lights,  and  for  the  last  time  the  fantastic  pi&ures 
looked  down  upon  the  familiar  faces;  for  the  last  time  the  walls 
resounded  to  song  and  laughter.  For  it  was  not  to  bemoan  the 


RESTAURANTS 

catastrophe  that  they  met.  Some  had  lost  their  studios  and  pic- 
tures,  some  their  manuscripts-all  were  more  or  less  adrift;  but 
the  courage  of  San  Franciscans  was  theirs.  They  closed  the  old 
era  and  faced  the  new  with  strong  hearts  and  exultant  purpose. 
And  this  is  the  scene  represented  on  the  new  Coppa’s  walls. 

Campi’s  is  a well-known  Italian  place  of  long-standing  re- 
nown for  good  dinners,  many  of  whose  patrons  have  been  with 
it  for  a generation. 

On  Broadway  are  the  Italian  restaurants  of  Little  Italy, 
where  you  may  have  a seven-course  dinner  for  fifty  cents-soup, 
fish,  entree,  roast,  salad,  dessert,  fruit  and  a demi-tasse.  Here 
you  get  Italian  pastes  in  perfection,  ravioli,  tagliarini,  spaghetti, 
or  green  lasagne,  and  tempting  fritto  misto,  each  delicately  fried 
tiny  roll  of  batter  containing  a different  surprise— an  artichoke 
heart,  a piece  of  chicken  liver,  a bit  of  brains,  or  some  other  tidbit. 
For  dessert,  zabaione  and  fried  cream  are  their  specialties.  In 
the  Fior  d’ltalia,  or  the  Buon  Gusto,  you  may  easily  delude 
yourself  for  an  hour  with  the  thought  that  you  are  on  Italian 
soil,  and  the  waiters  (so  solicitous  to  please  you,  so  anxious  that 
you  shall  enjoy  their  food)  add  to  the  illusion. 

We  cannot  leave  the  Italian  restaurants  without  a word  of 
Sanguinetti’s.  It  is  one  of  the  institutions  of  the  old  and  of  the 
new  city,  down  near  the  water-front,  rather  difficult  to  reach.  It 
has  a large  patronage,  some  genuine  Bohemians,  some  make- 
believe,  and  some  who  go  to  look  on.  The  sawdust  on  the  floor 
represents  the  unconventionality  and  belies  the  good  cooking. 
Musicians  enliven  the  meals  until  the  diners  begin  to  furnish 
their  own  entertainment  by  breaking  into  song.  In  Lhe  Heart 
Line , Gelett  Burgess  pictures  the  place,  under  the  name  of  Car- 
minetti’s.  Coppa’s  he  depicts  under  the  name  of  Fulda’s. 

An  interesting  place  be- 
fore the  fire  was  Luna’s,  a 
Mexican  restaurant.  Here 
you  could  burn  your  throat 
with  tamales,  enchiladas,  or 
chili  con  carne,  eat  frijoles 
from  little  individual  pots, 
drink  delicious  chocolate,  or 

r 1 5 1 ] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

water  which  had  cooled  in  an  olla,  and  be  served  by  Ricardo,  whose 
portrait  Frank  Norris  drew  in  Blix.  Sometimes  Ricardo  would 
bring  you  the  book,  open  at  the  passage  to  ask  if  you  had  read 
it.  Luna’s  disappeared  at  the  time  of  the  fire,  and  though  we  can 
get  the  same  food  now,  we  miss  Ricardo  and  the  foreign  little 
place. 

For  oysters  in  every  style,  the  best  places  are  the  big  mar- 
kets—the  California,  or  the  Spreckels.  The  eating  rooms  are 
upstairs.  Incidentally,  the  markets  are  interesting  in  themselves, 
with  their  great  variety  of  tropical,  semi-tropical  and  temperate 
zone  fruit;  their  fine  fish  and  game  in  abundance;  their  veg- 
etables of  all  kinds  at  every  season;  their  dairy  products,  pastry 
stalls  and  flower  stalls— everything  to  furnish  a many  course  din- 
ner and  to  decorate  the  table. 

The  grills  and  dining  rooms  of  the  best  hotels  are  always 
popular,  with  perfe&ion  of  service  and  delicious  food.  Some  of 
the  chefs  have  reputations  which  have  traveled  far.  Afternoon 
tea  also  brings  pleasant  little  groups  together  in  the  hotels. 

For  ladies  unattended  there  are  innumerable  pleasant  places, 
some  luxurious,  some  plainer— all  good.  The  Golden  Pheasant, 
The  Pig’n  Whistle,  Swain’s,  The  Woman’s  Exchange,  the  Em- 
porium restaurant,  The  Tea-cup,  The  Bon  Ami,  to  name  some 
of  them.  Men  frequent  these  places  too,  but  they  appeal  partic- 
ularly to  women. 

This  city  was  late  in  adopting  cafeterias.  The  San  Francis- 
can demands  more  than  mere  food  for  his  meal,  and  one  cannot 
lunch  or  dine  with  art  in  a cafeteria.  But  they  furnish  excellent 
and  wholesome  food  for  a moderate  price  and  there  are  now  a 
goodly  number  of  them.  It  is  doubtful  if  they  ever  become  gen- 
uinely popular  here,  yet  some  of  them  are  very  well  patronized. 

In  any  class  of  the  restau- 
rants named,  only  some  of  the 
typical  ones  have  been  men- 
tioned. It  would  take  many 
pages  to  name  them  all.  Good 
ones  have  been  omitted,  but 
a stranger  will  not  err  when 
choosing  from  the  foregoing. 

p52] 


Laurel  Tea  Room  of  the  Fairmont. 


sJ” 


The  Willows,  Near  Valencia  and  Seventeenth  Streets.  The  Mission  in  the  Distance. 


Chapter  Eighteen  • Theaters 

Before  the  discovery  of  gold  in  1 848,  occasional  bull-fights 
and  cock-fights  at  the  Mission  were  the  only  forms  of 
, spectacular  amusement  afforded  the  dwellers  around 
) Yerba  Buena  cove.  With  the  bursting  of  the  little  set- 
tlement into  a population  numbering  thousands,  along 
with  churches,  schools  and  newspapers,  places  of  entertainment 
sprang  up  with  astonishing  rapidity,  to  meet  the  wants  of  those 
whom  the  rapidly  shifting  scenes  of  daily  life-dramatic  to  the 
last  degree-did  not  satisfy.  No  sooner  was  Mr.  Rowe’s  Olympic 
Circus  opened  in  a big  tent  on  Kearny  street,  near  Clay,  than  it 
was  crowded  by  a public,  eager  to  pay  three  dollars  for  a seat  in 
the  pit,  five  dollars  for  a box  place,  or  fifty-five  dollars  for  a private 
box.  Shortly  after,  Foley’s  Circus  on  Montgomery  street,  near 
California,  met  with  equal  success,  and  the  two  entertained  large 
audiences  for  many  days  and  nights. 

In  1 853,  Russ’ Garden  was  opened  and  a few  years  later 
The  Willows.  Both  flourished  through  the  Fifties  and  afforded 
the  recreation  of  music  and  refreshments  in  the  midst  of  rural 
surroundings.  The  former  was  on  the  corner  of  Sixth  and  Har- 
rison streets;  the  latter  between  Mission  and  Valencia,  Seven- 
teenth and  Nineteenth  streets.  In  1 861,  Hayes  Park,  on  Laguna 
street,  near  Hayes,  became  a popular  resort.  This  in  turn  gave 
way,  in  1866,  before  the  attractions  of  Woodward’s  Gardens,  in 
which  Woodward  of  the  What  Cheer  House  invested  the  money 
made  in  that  hotel.  His  private  residence  on  Valencia  street, 
near  Fourteenth,  was  transformed  into  a museum.  A large  pavil- 
ion served  also  for  dancing  hall  and  theater;  refreshment  rooms 
were  at  hand,  and  beautiful  gardens  and  lawns,  with  streams, 

[ 1 5 3 ] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

small  lakes  and  fountains  sur- 
rounded the  buildings.  A 
well-stocked  zoological  gar- 
den, a seal  pond,  aviary,  deer 
park  and  art  gallery  were  fur- 
ther allurements.  This  pop- 
ular and  widely  known  resort 
was  a feature  of  the  city  for 
nearly  a quarter  of  a century. 

Woodward’s  Gardens.  Museum,  Once  Home  of  Fremont.  The  first  real  drama  in 

San  Francisco  was  given  in  January,  1 850,  in  a building  called 
Washington  Hall,  on  Washington  street,  opposite  the  Plaza. 
The  play,  poorly  rendered,  was  Sheridan  Knowles’  “The  Wife.” 
When  circuses  palled  on  the  popular  taste,  Mr.  Rowe  converted 
his  tent  into  a theater  and  secured  a company  of  English  a<5tors 
who  were  warmly  appreciated.  A small  French  theater  followed, 
and  then  the  Dramatic  Museum  on  California  street. 

Thomas  Maguire,  a native  of  Ireland,  was  a pioneer  theater 
manager  of  the  Pacific  coast.  For  more  than  a quarter  of  a cen- 
tury he  was  lessee  or  owner  of  the  principal  theaters  of  this  city. 
In  1850  he  converted  a part  of  the  Parker  House,  on  Kearny 
street,  facing  the  Plaza,  into  a theater  which  he  named  the  Jenny 
Lind.  The  fire  of  May  4,  1851,  destroyed  the  building,  but  the 
the  theater  was  soon  rebuilt  by  Mr.  Maguire  and  opened  under 
the  name  of  the  Jenny  Lind  No.  2.  In  less  than  a month  this, 
too,  was  burned;  but  Mr.  Maguire’s  pluck  did  not  forsake  him, 
and  Jenny  Lind  No.  3,  this  time  of  brick,  rose  on  the  same  site. 
In  1852  this  building  was  sold  to  the  city  for  $200,000,  to  be 
used  for  a City  Hall,  until  it  gave  place  in  1896  to  the  Hall  of 
Justice  which  was  destroyed  in  the  fire  of  1906. 

After  disposing  of  the  Jenny  Lind,  Mr.  Maguire  in  1853 
opened,  on  Washington  street  near  Montgomery,  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Hall,  previously  conduced  by  Mrs.  Catharine  Sinclair.  He 
changed  the  name  soon  after  to  San  Francisco  Theater,  and  three 
years  later  to  Maguire’s  Opera  House.  When  Montgomery 
avenue  was  cut  through,  this  building  was  demolished. 

In  1864  Mr.  Maguire  opened  a new  building,  called  the 
Maguire  Academy  of  Music.  The  public  was  entertained  here 


THEATERS 

until  1 867,  when  the  building  was  changed  into  offices  and  stores. 

As  the  years  went  by,  the  first  and  second  Metropolitan  Theaters, 
the  first  and  second  American,  the  Alhambra  (on  Bush  street, 
afterwards  named  Maguire’s  New  Theater)  and  Baldwin’s  Acad- 
emy of  Music  passed  into  Mr.  Maguire’s  control. 

In  1853  the  Metropolitan  was  called  “the  most  magnificent 
temple  of  histrionic  art  in  America,”  and  the  later  theaters,  halls, 
academies  of  music  and  opera  houses  were  well  abreast  of  the 
growing  city,  both  in  chara&er  of  the  buildings  and  in  the  talent 
of  those  who  trod  their  boards. 

In  the  Jenny  Lind  No.  3,  Mrs.  Lewis  Baker  won  the  hearts 
of  the  people  and  played  for  two  years  to  enthusiastic  audiences. 
Her  husband  was  both  manager  and  adtor  in  several  theaters  dur- 
ing their  stay,  and  when,  in  1854,  they  bade  farewell  to  the  San 
Francisco  public,  they  left  a stage  which  they  had  largely  assisted 
in  elevating  from  a rude  and  confused  condition  to  one  which 
could  be  classed  with  the  better  theaters  of  the  East. 

In  the  old  Union  Theatre  on  Commercial  street,  above 
Kearny,  little  Lotta  Crabtree  sang  and  danced  her  way  into  the 
hearts  of  the  miners.  Lashed  to  the  back  of  a beautiful  horse, 
Ada  Isaacs  Menken  in  “Mazeppa”  dashed  back  and  forth  across 
the  stage  of  Maguire’s  Opera  House.  On  this  same  stage  were 
seen  Junius  Brutus  Booth  and  his  son,  Edwin,  the  latter  just 
beginning  his  great  career.  The  home  of  the  Booths  overlooked 
the  theater  from  the  slopes  of  Telegraph  Hill.  In  this  theater 
Thomas  W.  Keene  and  Frank  Mayo  played;  here  Lawrence 
Barrett  and  John  McCullough,  young  men  of  twenty,  supported 
Edwin  Forrest;  here  Anna  Bishop  sang  and  Lola  Montez  danced. 

At  the  Metropolitan,  Boucicault  played  his  own  produc- 
tions, George  Francis  Train  and  Artemus  Ward  lectured,  Par- 
eppa  Rosa  and  Sconcia  were 
stars  in  opera. 

In  1866  the  two  young 
Irishmen,  John  McCullough 
and  Lawrence  Barrett,  came 
to  San  Francisco  with  Edwin 
Forrest.  After  their  engage- 
ment with  Forrest  closed, 

[l55] 

Jenny  Lind  Theater  No.  3,  Afterwards  the  City  Hall. 


The  Old  California  Theater. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

they  remained,  supporting 
various  stars  for  a time  and, 
finally  they  became  lessees  of 
the  California  Theater  (on 
Bush  street,  above  Kearny), 
built  by  W.  C.  Ralston  and  a 
company  composed  of  Bank 
of  California  magnates.  Bar- 
rett soon  retired,  leaving  Mc- 
Cullough the  sole  manager. 
A list  of  those  who  occupied  the  stage  during  McCullough’s 
management  includes  the  name  of  nearly  every  great  adtor  and 
adtress  of  the  day;  and  a glorious  day  of  the  American  stage  it 
was-a  day  when  every  first-class  theater,  such  as  the  California, 
maintained  a stock  company,  able  to  furnish  support  to  the  star 
in  any  play.  The  star  was  the  only  adtor  imported.  Besides  Bar- 
rett, McCullough  and  Edwin  Booth,  there  were  Barry  Sullivan, 
John  T.  Raymond,  Frank  Mayo,  Louis  James,  John  E.  Owens, 
the  elder  Sothern,  Mrs.  Judah,  Annie  Pixley,  Lotta  Crabtree, 
Sophie  Edwin,  Madame  Janauscheck,  Mrs.  Bowers,  Bella  Pate- 
man  and  many  other  names  of  lustre.  As  we  read  the  list  it 
seems  as  if  few  of  their  places  were  now  filled,  just  occupied.  Even 
among  the  ushers  of  those  old  days  at  the  California  there  were 
names  of  mark.  In  one  aisle  Walter  Wallace,  father  of  Edna, 
politely  led  the  way,  while  David  Warfield  performed  the  same 
service  in  another. 

Throughout  its  career  the  old  California  Theater  preserved 
its  ideals  of  high-class  plays  and  adtors.  The  old  theater  was  torn 
down,  to  make  way  for  the  California  Hotel,  a part  of  which  was 
occupied  by  a new  California  Theater,  which  extended  for  a time 
the  traditions  of  the  first;  but  the  population  shifted,  other 
theaters  were  more  accessible,  and  at  the  time  of  the  fire  it  was 
only  occasionally  occupied. 

In  1873  Doctor  Thomas  Wade,  a dentist  of  San  Francisco, 
who  had  accumulated  a fortune,  projedled  an  opera  house  which 
should  be  the  equal  of  any  in  the  United  States.  He  chose  a site 
in  the  Mission  for  it,  between  Third  and  Fourth  streets.  His 
plans  were  carried  out  by  a stock  company  and  the  house  was 


THEATERS 

opened  in  1876.  In  compliment  to  its  projector,  it  was  named 
at  its  opening  Wade’s  Opera  House,  which  was  later  changed 
to  the  Grand  Opera  House,  the  name  at  first  chosen  by  its 
founder.  It  had  a seating  capacity  of  three  thousand,  was  hand- 
somely decorated  and  lighted,  and  had  every  device  then  known 
for  safety,  comfort  and  stage  effects.  In  this  house  on  the  eve 
of  the  fateful  April  18, 1906,  a grand  opera  troupe,  with  Madame 
Eames  and  Caruso  as  leading  singers,  were  rendering  “Carmen” 
to  a crowded  house.  The  next  night  opera  singers  and  many  of 
the  audience  were  sleeping  in  the  streets. 

The  old  Tivoli  was  a semi-Bohemian  but  entirely  respedt- 
able  house,  where  good  operas  were  rendered  acceptably  at  pop- 
ular prices.  It  was  upon  this  stage  that  Tetrazzini  won  her  laurels. 
Since  the  fire  the  location  has  been  occupied  by  temporary  city 
offices,  but  a new  Tivoli  is  now  about  to  replace  the  old.  It  will 
be  a handsome  nine-story  building,  up-to-date  in  every  detail. 
A grand  organ,  to  be  used  for  oratorios  or  for  special  orchestral 
effedts,  will  be  a part  of  the  equipment.  The  promenade,  a feature 
of  the  old  Tivoli,  will  be  on  the  balcony  floor.  Here  men  may 
smoke,  and  at  small  tables  refreshments  will  be  served  without 
disturbing  the  audience  below. 

A leading  theater  of  the  city  for  years  was  the  Baldwin  which, 
with  the  Baldwin  Hotel  Building,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1898. 
The  present  Flood  Building  occupies  the  site. 

The  great  fire  made  a clean  sweep  of  every  theater  in  the 
city.  Regret  for  them  was  swallowed  up  in  losses  which  seemed 
more  important;  but  San  Franciscans,  pursuing  their  strenuous 
daily  rounds  through  scenes  swept  bare  of  ameliorating  diversions, 
felt  the  need  of  something  to  relieve  the  strain  and  stimulate  the 
imagination.  Magazines  were  distributed  among  the  tent-dwell- 
ers, libraries  hastened  to  re- 
open, and  soon  a large  tent 
with  board  seats,  and  hastily 
built  rooms  with  a platform 
at  one  end,  were  made  ready 
to  beguile  with  opera,  play  or 
vaudeville  “stunt”  the  audi- 
ences which  eagerly  flocked 

[ 1 57] 


The  Columbia  Theater. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

to  them  through  streets  still  half-choked  with  debris.  It  was  not 
long  before  really  comfortable  play-houses  were  built,  but  in 
such  unwonted  sections  of  the  city-all  of  them  west  of  Fillmore 
street  except  one,  which  was  on  Van  Ness  avenue. 

Valencia  Theater.-TIic  first  permanent  new  theater  was 
built  on  Valencia  street,  a handsome  structure  of  concrete.  For  a 
time  a good  stock  company  rendered  it  popular;  but  with  the 
rebuilding  of  the  old  down-town  theaters,  it  no  longer  seemed  so 
accessible  as  at  first,  and  it  is  not  now  continuously  open. 

The  Columbia  Theater  on  Geary  street,  near  Mason,  is 
one  of  the  two  leading  theaters  of  the  city,  and  is  reckoned,  as 
before  the  fire,  a high-class  one. 

The  Cort  Theater  on  Ellis  street,  near  Market,  is  new.  It 
is,  like  the  Columbia,  devoted  to  the  better  class  of  plays,  as  plays 
run  now-a-days,  and  is,  in  a way  its  rival,  as  it  is  outside  the  trust. 

The  Savoy  is  a good  theater  on  McAllister  street,  near 
Market.  The  name  and  building  are  new  since  the  fire. 

The  Alcazar  on  O’Farrell  street,  between  Stockton  and 
Powell,  maintains  the  only  stock  company  in  the  city.  From  its 
earliest  days,  before  the  fire,  it  has  given  the  people  good  drama 
for  little  money,  and  it  is  held  in  affeCtion  by  many  people. 

The  Orpheum  on  O’Farrell  street,  near  Powell,  in  a fine 
and  well-adapted  building,  is  a part  of  the  largest  vaudeville  cir- 
cuit in  the  United  States.  It  is  open  each  afternoon  and  evening. 

The  success  of  the  Orpheum  has  given  rise  to  other  vaude- 
ville houses  which  furnish  similar  entertainment.  The  Pantages 
and  the  Empress  on  Market  street  are  two  of  them. 

The  city  is  now  better  supplied  with  play-houses  than  ever 
before.  The  demand  for  such  places  of  amusement  has  been  fast 
growing  during  the  past  few  years.  San  Francisco  has  met  the 

requirements,  and  new  ones 
are  being  planned;  but  as  yet 
there  is  no  really  adequate 
house  for  the  production  of 
grand  opera.  One  has  been 
mentioned  as  a part  of  the  new 
Civic  Center,  and  will  doubt- 
less be  materialized  ere  long. 

[■58] 


The  Orpheum. 


Pacific-Union  Clubhouse  (Formerly  the  Flood  Residence)  and  the  Fairmont. 

Chapter  Nineteen  • Clubs,  Societies,  Lodges 

his  is  the  age  of  clubs  and  organizations.  Every  new 

Iidea  is  the  nucleus  of  a society.  Some  move  on  to 
achievement  of  their  object;  some  ripple  the  surface, 
and  are  gone.  San  Francisco  is  full  of  them;  men’s 
clubs  and  women’s  clubs,  some  purely  social,  some 
altruistic,  some  political,  while  a mingling  of  two  or  all  of  these 
attributes  characterizes  others. 

The  Pacific-Union  CLUB.-Of  the  men’s  social  clubs,  the 
oldest  is  probably  the  Pacific-Union  Club,  which  represents  much 
of  the  wealth  and  dignity  of  the  city.  It  was  formed  by  the  con- 
solidation in  1889  of  the  Pacific  Club,  organized  in  1852,  and 
the  Union  Club,  organized  two  years  later.  It  now  occupies  the 
fine  old  brownstone  Flood  mansion  opposite  the  Fairmont  Hotel. 
The  walls  of  the  house  stood  inta6l  after  the  fire.  The  property 
was  purchased  by  the  Club,  the  house  refitted  and  the  semi-cir- 
cular wings  added. 

The  Bohemian  CLUB.-There  is  only  one  Bohemian  Club. 
Elsewhere  there  are  Authors’ clubs,  and  Adlors’ clubs,  and  Musi- 
cal clubs,  Social  clubs  which  include  a few  from  them  all;  but 
nowhere  else  is  there  such  a club  of  wit  and  art  and  musical 
ability,  such  a spirit  of  good  fellowship,  combined  with  such 
genius  in  so  many  different  lines. 

The  club  was  organized  in  1872.  As  a passport  to  member- 
ship achievement  in  literature  or  art  was  needful.  Later, less  orna- 
mental attainment  in  science  or  business  was  included,  but  all 
members  are  clubable  men  who  have  given  of  their  best  for  the 
club’s  joy.  Pictures  were  painted,  music  composed,  prose  and 
poems  written,  not  to  go  outside  the  club  circle.  The  old  Bohe- 

[ 1 59] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

mian  Club  Building  was  on  Grant  avenue  and  Post  street.  Its 
walls  had  been  lovingly  adorned  by  the  artist  members,  or  en- 
riched with  caricatures  as  dear  to  the  club  as  the  more  dignified 
pi&ures.  There  was  a fine  library  particularly  rich  in  Califor- 
niana.  The  club  had  entertained  nearly  every  man  of  note  who 
came  to  San  Francisco,  and  what  memories  they  carried  away  of 
hours  of  feast  and  fun  and  of  intelledual  enjoyment!  The  club 
house  was  burned  and  few  of  its  treasures  saved,  but  a handsome 
new  building  at  Post  and  Taylor  streets  is  now  accumulating  a 
new  hoard  of  pictures,  books  and  Bohemian  associations. 

Even  more  prized  by  the  members  than  their  club  house  is 
their  superb  grove  of  redwood  trees  on  the  Russian  river,  near 
Guerneville.  Here  at  the  time  of  full  moon  in  August  are  held 
the  Midsummer  Jinks  of  the  club.  No  fears  of  rain  to  spoil  the 
outing  need  intrude.  The  weather  is  sure  to  be  fine.  From  five 
to  six  hundred  members  of  the  club  are  seated  at  tables  arranged 
in  concentric  circles  among  the  glorious  trees,  and  partake  of  a 
perfectly  served  dinner  of  many  courses.  Dinner  and  speeches 
over,  comes  the  forest  play  or  musical  drama.  The  writer  of  the 
play,  or  “Sire,”  is  one  of  the  club's  literary  men;  the  music  has 
been  composed  by  one  of  the  club's  musical  geniuses.  All  has 
been  prepared  with  special  reference  to  the  place  and  time.  The 
audience  arranges  itself  on  benches  of  logs.  The  great  trees,  old 
at  the  beginning  of  the  Christian  era,  tower  above  like  cathedral 
spires.  The  stage  arrangements  are  blended  into  the  natural 
scene.  No  theater  has  such  a setting.  Two  giant  redwoods  mark 
the  sides  of  the  stage;  behind  rises  a hill  clothed  with  trees  and 
shrubbery,  with  half-hidden  paths  down  which  processions  wind. 
The  play  over,  Care  is  buried  with  elaborate  ceremonies.  The 
morning  following,  which  is  Sunday,  a symphony  concert  is  given. 

Some  of  the  plays  given 
have  been  “The  Hamadry- 
ads,” by  Will  Irwin,  “The 
Triumph  of  Bohemia,”  by 
George  Sterling, “Montezu- 
ma,” by  Louis  Robertson, 
“Saint  Patrick  in  Tara,”  by 
Henry  Morse  Stephens  of 

[i6°] 


Tapestry  Room  of  the 
St.  Francis. 


She  laughed  upon  her  hills  out  there 
Beside  her  bays  of  misty  blue; 
The  gayest  hearts,  the  sweetest  air 
That  a?iy  City  ever  knew . 

— Wallace  Irwin. 


CLUBS,  SOCIETIES,  LODGES 

the  University  of  California,  and cc The  Green  Knight,”  by  Por- 
ter Garnett.  The  music  of cc Montezuma” was  by  DoCtor  Stewart; 
that  of  “Saint  Patrick  in  Tara,”  by  Wallace  Sabin.  These  for- 
est plays  are  a new  creation  in  dramatic  literature,  as  distinctive 
as  they  are  original. 

The  Olympic  CLUB.-Next  to  the  Bohemian  club  house  on 
Post  street  is  the  splendid  new  home  of  the  Olympic  Club,  a 
$43  5,000  building,  equipped  with  salt  and  fresh  water  baths,  a 
mammoth  swimming  pool,  tennis  and  handball  courts  on  the 
roof  and  everything  needful  and  appropriate  for  the  city’s  most 
important  athletic  club.  The  salt  water  is  piped  from  the  beach 
near  the  Cliff  House,  over  five  miles. 

The  California  Camera  Club  is  the  largest  organization 
of  its  kind  in  the  West.  It  has  rooms  in  the  Commercial  Build- 
ing at  833  Market  street. 

The  Commercial  Club.— This  is  an  all-day  club  composed 
of  merchants,  bankers  and  professional  men,  with  club  rooms  in 
the  Merchants’  Exchange  Building. 

The  Commonwealth  Club  is  a notable  organization.  It 
began  with  the  meeting  together  of  a few  men  who  were  interested 
in  good  government  affairs.  The  published  investigations  of 
their  committees  and  the  addresses  that  were  made  at  their  gath- 
erings attracted  wide-spread  attention.  The  club  grew  until  now 
its  membership  is  over  the  thousand  mark.  It  has  reached  out 
all  over  the  State  and  numbers  among  its  members  many  of  the 
best  and  highest  thinking  men  in  California.  At  present  it  has 
no  club  house,  but  it  has  comfortable  rooms,  with  a reference 
library  for  the  use  of  members.  Its  only  meetings  are  in  the 
form  of  monthly  banquets  at  the  St.  Francis  Hotel,  which  are 
attended  by  several  hundred  men,  and  the  discussions  are  char- 
acterized by  perfeCt  frank- 
ness and  the  keenest  analysis 
of  public  questions.  By  all 
persons  interested  in  civic  af- 
fairs their  published  proceed- 
ings are  prized.  The  club  has 
never  engaged  in  politics, 
its  members  representing  all 

[i6i1 


The  Bohemian  Clubhouse  and  the  Olympic. 


fiPf-  • 


ii  s M‘W 

, m' 

® a a 

» 1 -Pm*  1 

: 8§  W 

- S 1 

SAN  FRANCISCO 

creeds  and  political  parties; 
but,  inevitably,  much  legisla- 
tion has  been  initiated  and 
influenced  by  it,  and  it  is  a 
substantial  and  powerful  fac- 
tor for  good  in  the  public  life 
of  California.  Besides  regular 
club  meetings  informal  week- 
ly luncheons  at  the  Palace 

The  Olympic  Club’s  Splendid  New  Home.  FI O tel  ate  largely  attended. 

Concordia  Club.— This  is  one  of  the  leading  Jewish  social 
clubs.  Its  building  is  on  Van  Ness  avenue. 

The  Cosmos  Club.— The  home  of  the  Cosmos  Club  is  at 
1534  Sutter  street.  This  club  was  organized  in  1881. 

The  Elks  Building.— The  Elks  have  a pretty  building  on 
Powell  street,  between  Sutter  and  Bush. 

The  Family  Club  is  a dignified  club  of  social  prestige.  It 
has  a handsome  building  at  Bush  and  Powell  streets. 

A German  House,  which  for  several  years  has  been  the 
dream  of  the  German- American  residents  of  San  Francisco,  has 
become  a realization.  On  March  25,  1912,  the  corner-stone  was 
laid  of  a splendid  $400,000  building,  to  be  the  home  of  the 
German  societies  which  have  not  a building  of  their  own  and  the 
center  for  all  German  societies  of  the  Pacific  slope.  The  site  is 
the  corner  of  Polk  and  Turk  streets,  near  the  Civic  Center— an 
ideal  location. 

Masonic  Temple.-A  new  Masonic  Temple,  at  the  corner 
of  Van  Ness  avenue  and  Oak  street,  will  cost  when  completed 
and  furnished  over  $1,000,000.  The  ground  cost  $257,000. 

Native  Sons  of  the  Golden  WEST.-This  organization  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  potent  in  the  State.  Its  San  Fran- 
cisco “Parlors”  and  those  of  the  Native  Daughters  are  scattered 
throughout  the  city.  The  order  has  replaced  on  Mason  street, 
between  Geary  and  Post,  the  fine  building  lost  in  the  fire.  Six 
bas  relief  panels  in  terra  cotta,  modeled  by  J.  J.  Mora,  are  a 
striking  feature  of  the  building.  The  panels  depid:  epochs  in  the 
history  of  California.  The  first  portrays  the  Indians  watching  the 
coming  of  the  caravels;  the  second,  Father  Serra  delivering  the 

[162] 


CLUBS,  SOCIETIES,  LODGES 

gospel  message  to  the  Indians;  the  third,  the  raising  of  the  Bear 
flag;  the  fourth,  the  raising  of  the  American  flag  at  Monterey;  the 
fifth,  the  coming  of  the  pioneers;  the  sixth,  the  miners  at  work. 

The  Odd  Fellows  Building  stands  on  its  old  site  at  the 
corner  of  Market  and  Seventh  streets.  Most  other  secret  soci- 
eties, whose  number  is  legion  (both  men's  and  the  affiliated  orders 
for  women),  have  not  yet  their  own  buildings,  but  rent  rooms 
suitable  for  their  purposes  in  various  parts  of  the  city.  This  is 
true  also  of  most  of  the  benevolent  and  benefit  societies,  which 
include  innumerable  orders  of  all  nationalities. 

The  San  Francisco  Press  Club,  composed  largely  of  the 
newspapermen,  has  its  headquarters  in  the  Commercial  Build- 
ing,  833  Market  street. 

The  San  Francisco  Turn  Verein  is  the  city's  oldest  Ger- 
man athletic  society.  It  was  organized  in  1852.  A handsome 
new  home,  costing  $75,000,  has  been  recently  erected  on  Sutter 
street,  between  Devisadero  and  Broderick. 

Scottish  Rite  Temples.-Oh  the  corner  of  Sutter  street 
and  Van  Ness  avenue  stands  a handsome  stone  building  which 
is  a Scottish  Rite  Temple.  Another  is  on  Geary,  near  Steiner. 

Scottish  Thistle  CLUB.-The  home  of  the  San  Francisco 
Scottish  Thistle  Club  is  in  Scottish  Hall,  121  Larkin  street. 

Society  of  California  Pioneers.— This  society  is  a ven- 
erated organization,  composed  as  it  is  of  men  who  have  seen  Cal- 
ifornia from  its  birth.  It  received  a large  bequest  from  James 
Lick.  With  this  the  society  built  the  Pioneer  Building  on  Pio- 
neer Place  (Fourth  street,  near  Market),  their  headquarters  for 
many  years.  Their  rooms  were  rich  in  relics  of  early  California 
days,  documents,  diaries,  maps,  histories.  They  were  the  custo- 
dians of  the  Bear  flag,  raised  in  Sonoma.  These  were  practically 
all  destroyed  by  the  fire-an 
irretrievable  loss;  they  had  a 
value  not  to  be  measured. 

The  destruction  of  such  irre- 
placeable mementoes  as  these 
is  one  of  the  most  regretted 
phases  of  the  calamity  of  six 
years  ago.  A new  building 

[ i63] 


The  Home  of  the  University  Club. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

has  been  erected  on  the  old 
site.  Their  annual  celebration 
is  on  the  ninth  of  September, 
a State  holiday— the  anniver- 
sary of  the  admission  of  Cal- 
ifornia into  the  Union.  The 
Daughters  of  the  California 
Pioneers  have  an  organiza- 
tion which  also  holds  meet- 
ings in  Pioneer  Hall. 

The  Southern  Club  has  a handsome  building  on  the  south 
side  of  California  street,  between  Powell  and  Stockton.  This 
building  is  in  southern  Colonial  style,  of  Caen  stone  and  tapestry 
brick,  with  tall-columned  portico  and  balconies.  On  the  lawn 
will  be  a statue  of  General  Robert  E.  Lee. 

State  Societies.— There  are  a number  of  flourishing  State 
societies,  whose  members  enjoy  exchanging  reminiscences  of  their 
“back  East”  homes,  such  as  societies  embracing  natives  of  New 
York,  of  Ohio,  of  Vermont,  of  Illinois,  et  cetera. 

The  Transportation  Club.-TIus  is  an  association  of  men 
connected  with  the  various  railroad  offices  in  the  city,  with  head- 
quarters in  the  Palace  Hotel. 

The  Union  League  Club  is  the  leading  Republican  polit- 
ical organization  of  the  city  and  State,  with  finely  fitted  quarters 
in  the  building  on  the  corner  of  O’Farrell  and  Powell  streets. 

The  University  Club  has  a handsome  new  brick  building 
on  the  corner  of  California  and  Powell  streets.  It  has  a large 
•membership.  A Ladies’  Department  gives  the  relatives  of  mem- 
bers some  of  the  privileges  of  the  club. 

University  and  College  CLUBS.-There  are  separate  col- 
lege clubs  and  alumni  associations  of  the  leading  universities  and 
colleges  of  the  United  States— a Harvard,  or  a Cornell  Club,  etc. 

The  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association.-THs  organ- 
ization has  a new  and  perfectly  equipped  building  on  Golden  Gate 
avenue  and  Leavenworth  street.  It  lost  a comparatively  new 
building  in  the  fire  but,  by  selling  its  valuable  old  site  and  with 
liberal  donations  from  Eastern  friends,  it  has  acquired  a better 
building  than  before. 


[i64] 


CLUBS,  SOCIETIES,  LODGES 

The  Young  Men’s  Hebrew  Association  has  its  headquar- 
ters at  present  on  Page  street,  near  Stanyan.  It  is  preparing  to 
move  down  town  in  order  to  extend  larger  hospitality  to  visitors 
of  its  faith,  during  the  Panama-Pacific  International  Exposition. 

The  Young  Women’s  Christian  Association  headquar- 
ters are  at  1249  O’Farrell  street  and  the  adjoining  new  building. 

The  Woman’s  Christian  Temperance  Union  headquar- 
ters are  at  3 City  Hall  avenue,  room  202. 

G.  A.  R.  Posts  are  scattered  throughout  the  city,  with  their 
auxiliaries,  the  Woman’s  Relief  Corps.  The  Daughters  and  The 
Sons  of  the  American  Revolution  and  likewise  The  Daughters 
of  the  Confederacy  have  their  various  chapters.  There  is  also 
an  association  of  Colonial  Dames  and  a Mayflower  Society. 

Women’s  Clubs.— Some  of  the  more  important  of  the  wo- 
men’s clubs  and  their  places  of  meeting  are  as  follows:  The 
California  Club  owns  an  attractive  club  house  at  1 750  Clay  street. 
The  Laurel  Hall  Club,  the  oldest  of  the  women’s  clubs,  meets 
at  the  same  place,  also  the  San  Franciscan  Colony  of  New  Eng- 
land Women  and  The  Association  of  Collegiate  Alumnae.  The 
Elmira  College  Club  of  the  Pacific  Coast  meets  at  the  homes  of 
members.  The  Mills  Club,  The  Forum  Club  and  the  Cercle  de 
l’Union  have  rooms  at  220  Post  street.  The  Association  of  Pio- 
neer Women  and  The  Daughters  of  the  California  Pioneers  meet 
in  the  Pioneer  Building  on  Pioneer  Place,  near  Market  and 
Fourth  streets.  Tokalon  Club  holds  its  meetings  in  the  social 
rooms  of  Calvary  Presbyterian  church.  The  Woman’s  Press 
Association  meets  at  257  Post  street.  The  rooms  of  the  Town 
and  Country  Club  are  at  218  Stockton  street.  The  Century 
Club  house  is  located  on  the  southwest  corner  of  Franklin  and 
Sutter  streets.  The  Channing  Auxiliary  meets  in  the  First  Uni- 
tarian church,  at  Geary  and 
Franklin  streets.  The  Coun- 
cil of  Jewish  Women  meets 
at  2137  Sutter  street.  The 
Papyrus  Club  rooms  are  at 
420  Sutter  street.  The  Fran- 
cisca  Club  is  housed  at  560 
Sutter  street. 

[ 1 6 5 ] 


Russian  Hill.  The  Bay,  Alcatraz  and  Angel  Islands. 

Chapter  Twenty  • Libraries 

4 lmost  the  greatest  loss  sustained  through  the  fire  of  1906 
is  that  of  the  San  Francisco  libraries,  public  and  pri- 
/ — ^ vate.  The  Public  Library,  the  eighth  in  size  in  the 
jt  JL  United  States,  lost  three-fourths  of  its  large  collection. 

The  Mechanics’-Mercantile  suffered  a loss  of  200,000 
volumes.  Of  the  200,000  volumes  composing  the  Sutro  collec- 
tion, 75,000  perished.  The  San  Francisco  law  library,  35,000 
volumes,  and  the  library  of  the  Supreme  Court,  10,000  volumes, 
were  destroyed.  The  medical  libraries,  the  library  for  the  blind, 
the  library  of  the  Academy  of  Sciences,  the  French  library,  the 
Bohemian  Club  library,  that  of  the  Society  of  California  Pio- 
neers, to  mention  only  a part  of  those  of  a public  character,  all 
disappeared-a  total  of  700,000  volumes.  Adding  to  these  the 
private  collections,  the  loss  reaches  the  million  mark.  But  fig- 
ures cannot  represent  the  loss.  The  research  and  reference  books 
of  the  Mechanics’-Mercantile  library  were  very  valuable  and 
many  of  them  cannot  be  replaced.  The  same  is  true  of  many  of 
the  collections  of  scientific  books,  and  of  the  4,000  black-letter 
manuscripts  of  the  Sutro  collection.  The  loss  of  the  library  of 
the  Society  of  California  Pioneers  was  incalculable,  containing  as 
it  did  old  diaries  and  maps,  and  twelve  bound  volumes  of  type- 
written reminiscences  of  pioneers,  which  some  one  had  been  suf- 
ficiently thoughtful  to  have  transcribed  before  it  was  too  late-not 
the  observations  of  trained  observers,  of  course,  and  sometimes 
befogged  perhaps  by  lapsing  memories,  but  lending  life  and  vivid 
coloring  to  those  by-gone  days  as  nothing  now  can  do.  Lamenting 
such  losses,  it  has  been  said  that  it  should  be  made  a capital  of- 
fense to  store  irreplaceable  books  in  an  inflammable  building. 

[166] 


LIBRARIES 

Though  the  loss  sustained  by  the  public  libraries  was  a 
serious  one,  and  even  yet  hampers  many  in  their  work,  who  shall 
estimate  the  loss  of  private  libraries,  the  best  beloved  books, 
collected  often  through  self-denial;  the  precious  gifts  of  friends, 
or  of  the  authors,  often  annotated  and  interleaved-what  number 
of  dollars  can  represent  their  loss,  the  difference  their  absence 
makes  in  individual  lives?  If  we  love  books  at  all,  next  to  our 
friends  they  are  our  dearest  possessions.  To  note  one  instance 
out  of  the  many  cruel  deeds  wrought  by  the  fire,  George  Hamlin 
Fitch,  for  many  years  literary  editor  of  the  San  Francisco  Chron- 
icle, left  his  home  the  first  day  of  the  fire  to  see  what  was  hap- 
pening down  town,  not  dreaming  it  could  travel  so  far  unchecked. 
When  he  returned,  a few  hours  later,  a cordon  of  soldiers  around 
the  block  forbade  his  entrance.  His  house  did  not  burn  till 
seven  hours  later.  Had  he  been  allowed  to  enter  it,  he  could 
have  carried  away  in  his  pockets  and  suit  cases  a few  of  the  most 
precious  of  his  volumes,  but  he  could  save  not  even  one.  He 
said,  a few  weeks  later:  “For  myself,  nothing  would  have  mat- 
tered had  I been  able  to  save  my  books,  or  even  a quarter  of 
them.  From  my  fourteenth  year,  book  collecting  has  been  my 
one  absorbing  hobby.  * * Hundreds  of  these  books  were  gifts 
of  authors;  they  were  enriched  with  autograph  inscriptions  and, 
in  many  cases,  with  letters  from  their  authors.  * * These  treas- 
ures were  gone  beyond  recall.  The  companions  of  years,  whose 
pages  I had  sought  when  weary  with  work,  or  depressed  by  grief, 
were  lost  to  me  forever.  Dear  beyond  all  expression,  gathered 
with  infinite  labor  at  the  cost  of  many  sacrifices,  they  vanished  in 
a brief  hour.”  This  was  one  instance  out  of  many,  and  Mr.  Fitch, 
like  others  who  lost  all  material  possessions,  struck  the  same  high 
note  of  courage  as  the  rest  when  he  added, “Yet  out  of  this  crush- 
ing loss,  one  emerges  with  the 
courage  to  form  a new  col- 
lection, for  life  still  remains, 
and  courage  and  fortitude  and 
the  power  of  work.” 

The  “courage  to  form  a 
new  colleCtion”asserted  itself 
immediately  with  the  trustees 

[167] 


Reading  and  Stack  Room,  of  Mechanics’ -Mercantile 
Library. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

of  public  and  quasi-public 
libraries,  and  in  a surprisingly 
short  time  pleasant  tempo- 
rary buildings  arose,  comfort- 
ably furnished,  their  tables 
strewn  with  the  accustomed 
periodicals  and  their  shelves 
stocked  with  goodly  collec- 
tions of  books.  In  the  down- 

Mercantile  Library  Building  on  Bush  Street , 1868.  tOWn  Wastes  of  brick  and 

ashes,  those  rooms  were  oases  of  rest  and  refreshment.  Wearied 
with  the  dust  and  debris  of  the  streets,  the  clang  of  hammer,  the 
creak  of  pulley  and  shouts  of  workmen  as  the  new  buildings 
arose,  those  quiet  places  soothed  the  spirits  and  sweetened  the 
daily  round  of  unusual  cares.  The  dazed  brains  were  roused  by 
the  fresh  new  books  to  read  at  home— and  some  of  the  homes 
were  such  strange  and  unhomelike  places.  If  ever  the  last  new 
novel  had  a useful  place,  it  was  then ! Those  who  rebuilt  San 
Francisco  knew  what  was  needed,  when  libraries  and  theaters 
were  among  the  first  things  to  be  restored. 

Two  branch  libraries  of  the  Public  Library  were  not  burned. 
Their  contents,  and  the  one-fourth  saved  of  the  main  library, 
made  the  nucleus  of  a new  collection  which  has  been  growing 
ever  since.  The  temporary  main  building  is  now  on  Hayes  street, 
near  Van  Ness  avenue.  Plans  are  completed  for  a new  $600,000 
building,  probably  to  be  erected  soon.  There  are  six  branches 
now  in  operation:  No.  1 at  1207  Valencia  street,  No.  2 at  Pond 
and  Sixteenth  streets,  No.  3 at  1457  Powell  street,  No.  4 at  254 
Fourth  avenue,  No.  5 at  Page  street  near  Cole,  and  No.  6 at  2435 
Sacramento  street.  They  are  open  daily  from  9 a.  m.  to  9 p.  m. 

A few  years  before  the  fire,  the  library  of  the  Mechanics’ 
Institute  and  the  Mercantile  Library  were  consolidated  under 
the  name  of  Mechanics’-Mercantile.  The  books  were  housed  in 
the  building  of  the  Mechanics’  Institute. 

The  Mercantile  Library  was  organized  in  1 853, ccto  with- 
draw youths  in  particular  from  haunts  of  dissipation,  and  to  give 
to  persons  of  every  age  and  occupation  the  means  of  mental 
improvement.”  Subscriptions  were  solicited  and  the  library  was 

[l68] 


LIBRARIES 

opened  in  rooms  on  the  second  floor  ot  the  old  California  Ex- 
change. They  had  a ledlure  room,  a reading  room  supplied  with 
local  papers  and  later  the  leading  magazines  and  reviews.  The 
library  embracedi,500  volumes  the  first  year,  and  reached  3,000  a 
year  later,  including  standard  works  in  English,  besides  many  in 
Spanish,  French  and  German.  For  a time  the  association  flour- 
ished. Later  its  indebtedness  became  heavy,  and  to  assist  it  to 
regain  a new  foothold,  a bill  was  introduced  in  the  State  Legis- 
lature in  1 8 70  by  J ohn  S.  Hagar,  authorizingccthree  public  enter- 
tainments, at  which  personal  property,  real  estate  or  valuables 
might  be  disposed  of,  by  chance,  raffle,  or  other  scheme  of  like 
charadter”-a  lottery  in  short,  which  was  plainly  contrary  to  the 
State  Constitution.  Nevertheless,  the  bill  passed,  and  the  follow- 
ing summer,  in  a pavilion  which  the  Mechanics’  Institute  had 
built  in  Union  Square  for  their  expositions,  were  held  three  con- 
certs, supplemented  by  drawings  of  prizes, “a  three  days’ carnival 
of  gambling, ’’says  Theodore  Hittell,ccunder  the  auspices  of  Gov- 
ernor and  Legislature,  in  which  nearly  all  the  population,  includ- 
ing the  school  children,  was  insidiously  drawn,  and  at  which  half 
a million  dollars  was  made.” 

The  library  had  another  period  of  prosperity.  Ten  or 
twelve  years  ago,  the  association  eredted  a building  for  itself  on 
Van  Ness  avenue.  This  was  sold  later,  and  finally  arrangements 
were  made  to  join  their  fine  collection  of  books  with  that  of  the 
Mechanics’  Institute. 

The  latter  association  was  formed  in  1855,  and  soon  had  a 
good  reading  room  and  library.  For  many  years  after  1857, 
industrial  fairs  were  held  by  the  association,  first  in  a pavilion 
built  for  the  purpose  on  a lot  where  the  Lick  House  later  stood, 
then  in  one  eredted  in  Union  Square,  and  still  later  in  an  immense 
building  on  their  own  lot  on 
Larkin  street,  between  Grove 
and  Hayes.  At  the  time  of 
the  fire  the  library  building 
was  on  its  present  site.  After 
the  fire  a pretty  and  comfort- 
able temporary  building  was 
eredted  on  the  pavilion  lot 

[ i69] 


T 


First  Mechanics’  Pavilion,  Post,  Montgomery  and 
Market  Streets. 


■■■■■ 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

and  served  their  patrons  until  the  permanent  home  could  be  built. 
They  have  now  a handsome  building,  at  57  Post  street,  the  old 
library  site.  Their  new  collection  of  35,000  volumes,  while  leav- 
ing much  to  be  desired,  contains  many  rare  scientific  works. 
Of  course,  many  of  their  losses  can  never  be  replaced.  Their 
reading  and  book  rooms  are  very  convenient.  The  library  is 
open  from  9 a.  m.  to  9 p.  m. 

The  French  Library  lost  25,000  volumes  by  the  fire.  It  is 
now  open  with  a new  collection,  at  126  Post  street.  The  hours 
are  from  2 to  6 and  from  8 to  10  p.  m.  daily,  except  Sundays  and 
holidays. 

The  Polish  Society,  organized  in  1862,  has  a library  which 
is  open  every  Saturday  from  8 to  10  p.  m.,  at  St.  Helen’s  Hall, 
1091  Fifteenth  street,  corner  of  Market. 

The  splendid  library  of  St.  Ignatius  College,  lost  by  fire, 
is  being  restored.  It  contained  over  one  hundred  thousand  vol- 
umes, many  of  them  very  rare. 

Most  fortunately,  1 25,000  volumes  of  the  Sutro  library  were 
stored,  at  the  time  of  the  fire,  in  the  Montgomery  block  which 
did  not  burn.  These  include  2,300  Japanese  manuscripts,  a large 
number  of  books  printed  in  Mexico  (from  the  earliest  times  to 
the  present),  second  and  third  folios  of  Shakespeare,  first  and 
second  folios  of  Ben  Jonson,  prayer-books  of  James  the  First 
and  Charles  the  Second,  and  a large  collection  of  English  and 
American  pamphlets.  This  library  is  not  yet  available  for  public 
use,  though  negotiations  with  heirs  of  Sutro  are  now  pending. 

The  Bancroft  library,  bought  by  theUniversity  of  California, 
had  happily  been  removed  before  the  fire.  It  is  a marvelous  and 
comprehensive  collection  of  historical  material  relating  mostly  to 
the  Pacific  Coast,  gathered  by  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft  from  all 

parts  of  Europe  and  Mexico. 
Medical,  law,  scientific  and 
club  libraries  are  partially  re- 
stored, but  it  will  be  many 
more  years  before  San  Fran- 
ciscans cease  to  feel  the  losses 
they  have  suffered  in  the  de- 
struction of  their  books. 

[170] 

Library  Building  of  University  of  California. 


Building  for  Academy  of  Sciences.  Courtesy  of  the  Architect , Lewis  P.  Hobart. 


Chapter  Twenty-one  • Museums  • Art  Galleries 

he  Anthropological  MusEUM.-This  museum  ranks 

Ias  one  of  the  four  greatest  institutions  of  its  kind  in 
the  United  States.  Its  existence  is  owing  to  the  gen- 
erosity of  Mrs.  Phoebe  Hearst.  It  has  been  ten  years 
in  preparation  and  represents  an  outlay  of  over  one 
million  dollars  in  excavations  in  Egypt,  Greece  and  Peru,  and  in 
collecting  from  the  rapidly  disappearing  Indian  tribes  of  western 
America  specimens  of  their  domestic  utensils,  implements,  arti- 
cles of  dress,  canoes,  and  whatever  illustrates  their  daily  life.  In 
addition,  the  Indian  traditions  and  languages  have  been  perma- 
nently preserved  by  means  of  phonographic  records.  Dr.Reisner, 
who  has  been  in  charge  of  the  explorations,  states  that  for  two 
million  dollars  the  Egyptian  collection  alone  could  not  be  repro- 
duced, and  the  Peruvian  and  Grecian  collections  are  worth  several 
times  the  outlay  for  them;  while  the  collection  illustrating  modes 
of  life  among  the  Indians  is  priceless  to  the  student  of  anthro- 
pology—since  some  of  the  tribes  have  disappeared,  others  are  dis- 
appearing, and  most  of  their  articles  of  use  and  adornment  are 
perishable.  The  museum  also  represents  an  enormous  amount 
of  labor  on  the  part  of  the  curator.  Dr.  A.  L.  Kroeber,  and  his 
assistants.  There  are  about  76,000  specimens,  all  representing 
“Man  and  His  Works”  (the  motto  of  the  museum),  all  illustrat- 
ing the  rise  or  the  decadence  of  certain  civilizations. 

The  museum  occupies  the  three  floors  of  the  western  of  the 
three  yellow  buildings  on  the  Sutro  hill,  which  are  called  the 
Affiliated  Colleges,  all  being  a part  of  the  University  of  California. 

Near  the  approach  to  the  museum  stands  a totem  pole, 
forty  feet  high,  carved  from  a single  cedar  log  by  the  Haida 

b7d 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Indians  of  the  Queen  Char- 
lotte Islands,  the  most  expert 
carvers  among  the  American 
Indians. 

The  museum  is  open  each 
day,  except  Monday,  from 
io  A.  m.  to  4 p.  m.  Hayes 
street  and  Masonic  avenue 
car,  No.  6,  will  convey  one 

Room  in  Golden  Gate  Park  Museum.  direCtly  tO  the  doOT. 

T he  California  Academy  of  Sciences, which  owed  its  large 
development  to  a bequest  of  James  Lick,  lost  by  fire  its  entire 
study  collections,  large  museum  and  library.  The  study  collec- 
tions and  the  fine  library  accumulated  since  the  fire  are  in  tem- 
porary quarters  at  343  Sansome  street.  Here  the  director  of  the 
museum,  Mr.  Leverett  Mills  Loomis,  and  the  curators  of  the 
various  departments  of  natural  history  are  working,  making  ready 
for  the  new  building  of  the  Academy  Museum  which  is  to  be 
ereCted  in  Golden  Gate  Park.  Since  the  fire  they  have  prepared 
nearly  eighteen  thousand  birds,  with  reptiles,  inseCts,  et  cetera, 
to  correspond.  The  birds  embrace  the  finest  collection  of  water 
fowl  in  the  world.  The  old  Market  Street  site  is  occupied  by  the 
new  Commercial  Building,  belonging  to  the  academy,  leased  in 
toto  for  shops  and  offices. 

The  Park  MusEUM.-The  museum  in  Golden  Gate  Park 
is  a valuable  collection  most  interesting  to  the  general  public. 
There  are  about  89,000  specimens,  valued  at  over  a million  dol- 
lars. About  half  are  natural  history  specimens  on  the  second 
floor.  Downstairs,  on  one  side  of  the  entrance  hall,  is  a room 
devoted  to  relics  of  the  early  Spanish  days;  across  the  hall  are 
Colonial  relics  from  the  other  side  of  the  continent;  between  is 
a long  series  of  rooms  devoted  to  textiles,  ceramics,  metal  work, 
jewels,  fans,  ancient  furniture,  Indian  relics,  South  Sea  curios,  et 
cetera.  This  museum  is  open  daily  from  10  A.  M.  to  4 p.  m., 
and  until  5 p.  m.  on  Sundays  and  holidays. 

State  Development  Board  and  Mining  Bureau  Exhib- 
ITS.-On  the  second  floor  of  the  Ferry  Building  are  two  interesting 
and  valuable  collections.  The  State  Development  Board  has  an 


MUSEUMS,  ART  GALLERIES 

exhibition  of  the  State’s  agricultural  and  horticultural  productions 
which  gives  a vivid  idea  of  the  great  variety  of  plant  life  the  soil 
of  California  can  produce.  Hardy  and  semi-tropical  fruits  are 
side  by  side,  and  the  array  of  grains  and  vegetables  is  bewilder- 
ing. The  State  Mining  Bureau  shows  the  mineral  productions 
of  the  State.  There  is  also  an  exhibition  of  structural  materials, 
and  an  extensive  general  mineralogical  museum.  LeCtures,  with 
stereopticon  views,  are  given  from  2 to  4 every  afternoon. 

Sutro  Bath  MusEUM.-In  the  Sutro  Baths,  near  the  Cliff* 
House,  is  a miscellaneous  museum  well  worth  a visit. 

The  Oakland  MusEUM.-Across  the  bay,  in  Oakland,  is  an 
interesting  and  instructive  museum,  especially  rich  in  Colonial 
relics— furniture,  textiles,  clothing,  including  a case  of  ancient 
bonnets,  articles  of  household  use,  chinaware  and  glassware,  and 
implements  for  the  farm.  The  museum  occupies  a commodious 
house  on  Oak  street,  bordering  Lake  Merritt.  It  is  open  daily 
from  10  to  5,  except  Sunday,  when  from  2 to  6 are  the  hours. 
To  reach  it  from  San  Francisco,  take  a Key  Route  or  a “Nar- 
row Gauge”  Southern  Pacific  ferryboat.  From  the  Key  Route 
boat  take  the  Twelfth  Street  Oakland  train  to  Broadway,  and 
an  East  Oakland  street  car,  which  passes  the  lake.  From  the 
Southern  Pacific  boat,  take  train  to  Fourteenth  street,  and  from 
there  an  East  Oakland  street  car  to  the  lake. 

University  of  California  MusEUM.-In  the  grounds  of 
the  University  of  California  in  Berkeley  is  a corrugated  iron 
building,  the  temporary  quarters  of  a large  collection  of  casts  from 
Grecian  and  Roman  sculpture,  and  of  a museum  of  synoptic 
anthropology.  The  museum  is  open  to  the  public  Wednesday 
and  Friday  from  1 to  4 in  the  afternoons. 

Art  Galleries.— Will  Irwin,  in  his  incomparable  pasan  to 
The  City  That  JVas,  dwells 
upon  the  art  sense  of  the 
people  “which  sets  it  off  from 
any  other  population  of  the 
country.”  He  says:  “This 
sense  is  Latin  in  its  strength 
and  the  Californian  owes  it 
to  the  leaven  of  Latin  in  his 

[ 1 73  ] 


Hall  in  Golden  Gate  Park  Museum. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

blood.”  He  owes  it  even  more  to  the  climate  (to  the  sun,  to  the 
blue  of  the  sky,  to  the  witchery  of  the  atmosphere-now  wrapping 
the  city  in  mysterious  folds  of  mist;  now  sparklingly  clear, 
exhilarating  as  wine)  and  to  contact  with  the  people  of  so  many 
different  nations,  each  with  something  of  his  own  art  to  contrib- 
ute. Whatever  the  explanation,  few  cities  of  like  size  can  claim 
to  have  been  the  home  of  so  many  painters,  sculptors,  writers, 
aCtors  and  musicians.  As  they  have  attained  fame,  most  of  them 
(except  the  artists)  have  wandered  far  afield.  A large  colony  of 
successful  painters  still  call  San  Francisco  home.  Alas,  that  so 
many  works  of  art  should  have  perished  in  the  fire!  Keith  alone 
lost  nearly  two  thousand  canvases.  Though  nearly  seventy  years 
of  age,  he  set  to  work  before  the  flames  were  quenched  and  in  a 
year  an  exhibition  of  his  paintings  showed  more  than  three  score 
canvases  painted  since  the  fire,  with  all  his  old-time  genius.  That 
magic  brush  that  fixed  on  canvas  every  variation  of  Californian 
atmosphere  and  landscape  is  laid  aside  forever,  but  some  treasure 
that  he  wrought  is  to  be  found  in  almost  every  local  gallery. 

There  are  in  San  Francisco  two  permanent  public  collections 
of  paintings.  One  is  in  the  museum  of  Golden  Gate  Park.  Here 
are  several  rooms  of  fine  paintings,  which  include  a Millet,  a 
Daubigny,  a Dupre  and  other  names  known  to  fame.  One  room 
is  devoted  to  local  artists.  The  large  entrance  hall  is  filled  with 
sculpture,  a Saul  by  W.  W.  Story  being  the  noblest  piece. 

Another  collection  is  in  the  San  Francisco  Institute  of  Art 
at  Mason  and  California  streets.  This  is  the  site  of  the  costly 
Mark  Hopkins  home  which,  with  the  nucleus  of  a picture  col- 
lection, was  given  to  the  city  for  an  art  institute  by  Mr.  Edward 
Searles,  the  second  husband  of  Mrs.  Hopkins.  Paintings  had 
been  added  by  generous  donors  until  the  collection  was  a very 

fine  one.  The  house  itself 
was  magnificent  within,  over- 
decorated in  style  and  elab- 
orate in  detail.  It  was  the 
scene  of  many  large  recep- 
tions, the  great  central  hall, 
with  its  gallery  and  large  pipe 
organ,  and  the  suite  of  spa- 

[ 1 74] 


Sailing  on  San 

Francisco  Bay.  Mt.  Tamalpais  in 
the  Distance.  Photograph 
by  F.  X.  Riedy. 


San  Francisco  Bay . 

* * * 

Such  room  of  sea!  Such  room  of  sky! 

Such  room  to  draw  a soul-full  breath! 

Such  room  to  live ! Such  room  to  die ! 
Such  room  to  roam  in  after  death! 

White  room,  with  sapphire  room  set  round. 
And  still  beyond  His  room  profound; 

Such  room-bound  boundlessness  overhead 
As  never  has  been  writ  or  said 
Or  seen,  save  by  the  favored  few. 

Where  kings  of  thought  play  chess  with  stars 
Across  their  board  of  blue. 


— Joa(iuin  Miller. 


MUSEUMS,  ART  GALLERIES 

cious  drawing  rooms  lending  themselves  well  to  such  occasions. 
All  was  burned;  only  a small  proportion  of  the  pictures  was 
saved.  The  present  building  is  temporary.  The  Art  Institute  and 
School  of  Design,  to  which  the  name  has  been  changed  from  the 
Mark  Hopkins  Institute  of  Art,  is  affiliated  with  the  University 
of  California.  Many  paintings  have  been  added  to  those  saved 
from  destruction,  and  the  collection  bids  fair  to  equal  the  old  one. 
The  place  is  open  daily  from  9 a.  m.  to  5 p.  m.,  except  Sundays. 
Tuesdays  and  Fridays  are  free  days;  on  other  days  an  admission 
of  twenty-five  cents  is  charged. 

At  the  Museum  of  Anthropology  is  a splendid  canvas  by 
Verestschagin  representing  English  soldiers  blowing  Sepoys  from 
cannon,  in  punishment  for  the  Sepoy  rebellion. 

In  Piedmont  Park,  across  the  bay,  is  the  largest  art  gallery 
in  the  vicinity,  containing  over  eight  hundred  paintings.  The 
large  collection  of  Russian  paintings  exhibited  at  the  St.  Louis 
Exposition  has  recently  been  added  to  this  gallery.  It  is  open 
daily  from  9 a.  m.  till  5 p.  m.  The  park  is  reached  by  the  Key 
Route  ferry,  Piedmont  train,  connecting  with  boat,  and  Piedmont 
street  car  for  the  park,  connecting  with  the  train. 

Besides  these  permanent  exhibitions  there  are  in  San  Fran- 
cisco several  galleries,  connected  with  art  stores,  where  beautiful 
pictures  by  local  and  foreign  artists  may  always  be  seen.  Often 
there  are  special  exhibitions  of  the  work  of  one  artist.  These 
galleries  are  so  accessible  to  the  down-town  shopper  that  a hunger 
for  good  pictures  may  always  be  appeased. 

At  Vickery,  Atkins  and  Torrey's  on  Sutter  street,  between 
Powell  and  Mason  streets,  is  a beautiful  gallery  where  good  things 
and  rare  things  are  always  exhibited.  At  Gump's  on  Post  street, 
near  Stockton,  is  another.  At  Rabjohn's,  near  Gump's,  is  one, 
and  there  is  one  atHelgesen's 
on  Sutter  street,  near  Grant 
avenue.  Further  out  Sutter 
street,  between  Polk  street 
and  Van  Ness  avenue,  is 
Schussler's.  At  any  one  of 
these  places  a feast  of  good 
things  is  always  to  be  found. 

[ 1 75] 


A Room  of  the  Art  Gallery  in  Piedmont  Park. 


The  Affiliated  Colleges — the  Medical  and  Dental  Departments,  Hospital  and  Museum  of  the 
University  of  California. 

Chapter  “Twenty-two  • Schools  and  Colleges 

In  1 847,  when  the  white  population  ofYerba  Buena  num- 
bered but  three  hundred  and  seventy-five,  a school  house 
was  built  near  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Plaza,  and  in 
May,  1848,  a school  was  opened  there  by  Thomas  Doug- 
las, a graduate  of  Yale.  The  attendance  was  about  forty. 
Soon  the  news  of  the  discovery  of  gold  almost  depopulated  the 
little  town  and  the  school  was  discontinued.  On  April  23, 1849, 
the  Reverend  Albert  Williams  opened  his  institute  in  the  same 
building  and  carried  it  on  for  five  months,  until  the  pressure  of 
parochial  duties  interfered.  In  December,  1849,  the  work  was 
taken  up  by  John  C.  Pelton  and  wife,  of  Boston.  They  brought 
with  them  around  the  Horn  a complete  equipment  of  school 
furniture  and  apparatus.  Mr.  Pelton’s  school  was  continued  with 
varying  success  until  the  inauguration  of  the  public  schools. 

There  are  now  ninety  public  and  twenty-two  private  schools 
within  the  boundaries  of  San  Francisco;  over  thirty  primary  and 
grammar  schools  and  four  high  schools  are  under  construction. 
When  all  are  completed  the  class  of  school  buildings  will  far  sur- 
pass that  before  the  fire— and  there  was  room  for  improvement. 
The  public  school  system  embraces  polytechnic  and  night  schools 
and  a normal  school.  Add  to  these  the  two  great  universities 
and  six  theological  schools  within  easy  reach,  several  Roman 
Catholic  colleges,  the  several  medical  colleges  and  colleges  of 
dentistry  and  pharmacy,  the  Hastings  Law  School,  schools  of 
mechanical  and  industrial  arts,  the  School  of  Design  of  the  Art 
Institute,  business  colleges  and  schools  of  music  and  it  would 
seem  that  higher  education,  as  well  as  primary  and  secondary, 
were  within  the  reach  of  all  the  youth  of  San  Francisco. 

[ 1 76] 


SCHOOLS  AND  COLLEGES 

Just  across  the  bay,  in  Berkeley,  is  the  University  of  Cali- 
fornia; and  forty  miles  down  the  peninsula  is  the  Leland  Stan- 
ford Junior  University.  Near  San  Jose  are  the  University  of  the 
Pacific  and  the  Roman  Catholic  University  of  Santa  Clara,  the 
former  in  College  Park  and  the  latter  in  Santa  Clara.  In  San 
Francisco  is  St.  Ignatius  College  and  in  Oakland,  St.  Mary's. 

The  Medical  Department  of  Stanford  University,  which  is 
the  Cooper  Medical  College,  is  in  San  Francisco,  as  are  also  the 
Medical  Department,  Department  of  Dentistry,  Department  of 
Pharmacy  and  the  Law  Department  (Hastings  Law  School)  of 
the  University  of  California.  The  Hahnemann  Medical  College 
of  the  Pacific  (Homoeopathic)  is  in  San  Francisco  and  also  the 
College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  the  latter  with  departments 
of  dentistry  and  pharmacy. 

In  San  Francisco  is  the  Episcopalian  Divinity  School,  while 
in  San  Anselmo  (an  hour’s  trip  from  San  Francisco  by  bay  and 
ele&ric  train)  is  the  San  Francisco  Theological  Seminary  (Pres- 
byterian); in  Berkeley  are  the  Pacific  Theological  Seminary  (Con- 
gregational), Baptist  and  Unitarian  theological  seminaries  and 
the  Bible  School  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ. 

There  are  a number  of  excellent  preparatory  schools  for  boys 
in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisco— the  St.  Matthew’s  Military 
Academy  at  Burlingame,  the  Belmont  School  at  Belmont,  An- 
derson Academy  at  Irvington  and  two  military  academies  at  San 
Rafael.  In  Berkeley  are  several  preparatory  and  finishing  schools 
for  girls  and  for  boys,  and  there  is  also  a preparatory  and  finish- 
ing school  for  girls  in  Piedmont. 

Mills  College,  a fine  institution  for  the  higher  education  of 
young  women  (non-se&arian  but  Christian  in  its  influence),  is  a 
noble  monument  to  its  founders,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Cyrus  T.  Mills. 
It  is  five  miles  east  of  Oak- 
land, on  a beautiful  estate  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  acres. 

St.  Mary’s  College  on 
Broadway  in  Oakland  is  a 
Roman  Catholic  institution 
for  young  men, of  long  stand- 
ing and  wide  influence. 

P77] 


The  Mission  High  School. 


German  and  St.  Joseph’s  Hospitals. 

Chapter  Twenty-three  • Hospitals 

When  the  Reverend  William  Taylor  came  here  in 
1 849  he  found  many  sick  from  exposure,  poor  food 
and  unaccustomed  ways  of  living.  To  aid  them 
was  a badly  conducted,  filthy  city  hospital,  contain- 
ing two  or  three  hundred  patients.  It  was  the  cus- 
tom for  the  city  to  farm  out  the  care  of  the  sick  to  one  doctor  or 
another  at  five  dollars  per  day  for  each  patient.  The  hospital 
changed  hands  many  times  and  its  location  nearly  as  often.  Mr. 
Taylor  spent  much  time  with  the  sick,  ministering  to  their  phys- 
ical and  spiritual  needs.  Mingled  with  the  sad  cases  which  he  cites 
is  occasionally  a glimpse  of  the  relief  he  was  able  to  afford,  as  when 
he  advised  a number  of  scurvy  patients,  growing  worse  daily  for 
want  of  proper  food,  to  eat  the  miner’s  lettuce  growing  wild  in 
the  vicinity  (the  only  green  thing  obtainable)  and  had  the  satis- 
faction of  finding  them  much  improved  on  his  next  visit. 

The  present  public  hospitals  of  San  Francisco  are  remark- 
able in  number,  buildings  and  equipment,  especially  those  which 
have  been  built  since  the  fire,  though  a number  were,  most  for- 
tunately, out  of  reach  of  that  disaster. 

The  Lane  Hospital,  founded  by  Dr.  Levi  Cooper  Lane, 
is  on  the  corner  of  Clay  and  Webster  streets.  It  is  connected 
with  the  Medical  Department  of  Stanford  University. 

The  University  of  California  Hospital,  connected  with 
the  University  Medical  Department,  is  on  Parnassus  avenue,  the 
middle  building  of  the  Affiliated  Colleges. 

The  Children’s  Hospital  and  Training  School  for 
Nurses  embraces  several  buildings  between  California  and  Sac- 
ramento streets.  Maple  and  Cherry.  A new  building,  embody- 

[178] 


HOSPITALS 

ing  every  new  idea  in  hospital  equipment,  has  been  recently 
opened  at  3700  California  street. 

The  Southern  Pacific  General  Hospital  is  a fine,  mod- 
ern building  on  Fell  and  Baker  streets,  opposite  the  Panhandle. 

The  United  States  General  Hospital  and  the  United 
States  Marine  Hospital  are  in  the  Presidio,  the  first-named 
near  the  Union  street  car  terminus;  the  other,  on  the  Presidio’s 
southern  boundary,  at  Thirteenth  avenue  and  Lake  street. 

The  Hahnemann  Hospital  (homoeopathic)  on  California 
and  Maple  streets  is  the  hospital  of  Hahnemann  MedicalCollege. 

The  German  Hospital, Fourteenth  and  Noe  streets,  owned 
by  the  German  Benevolent  Society,  was  established  in  1853. 

The  French  Hospital,  at  Point  Lobos  and  Fifth  avenues, 
is  conducted  by  the  French  Mutual  Benevolent  Society. 

St.  Mary’s  Hospital  (Roman  Catholic),  on  Hayes  and 
Shrader  streets,  is  carried  on  by  the  Sisters  of  Mercy.  This 
hospital  was  established  in  1861. 

St.  Joseph’s  Hospital  (Roman  Catholic)  is  on  Park  Hill 
and  Buena  Vista  avenue. 

St.  Luke’s  LIospital  (Episcopal)  was  established  in  1871. 
It  is  on  Valencia  street,  near  the  junction  of  Mission  and  Twenty- 
seventh.  The  corner  stones  of  new  buildings  to  be  ere&ed  in 
memory  of  Calvin  Paige  and  D.  O.  Mills  have  been  recently  laid. 

City  and  County  Hospital  on  Potrero  avenue,  between 
Twenty -second  and  Twenty-fourth  streets,  is  to  cost  $2,000,000. 
Mayor  Taylor  laid  the  corner  stone  in  November,  1909. 

There  are  five  emergency  hospitals:  One  in  the  park,  at 
Waller  and  Stanyan  streets;  one  in  the  Potrero,  at  1152  Ken- 
tucky street;  one,  the  Mission  branch,  at  Twenty-third  street  and 
Potrero  avenue;  one,  the  Harbor  branch,  at  7 Clay  street,  and 
the  Central  at  Golden  Gate 
avenue  and  Gough  street. 

These  are  the  principal 
public  hospitals  of  the  city. 

The  private  hospitals  are  in- 
numerable-most of  them  in 
excellent  buildings  and  of 
modern  equipment. 

f1 79] 


The  Summit  of  Lone  Mountain  and  Cross. 


Chapter  Twenty-four  • Monuments 

he  Donahue  Fountain.— Near  the  foot  of  Market 
street,  at  the  junction  of  Market,  Bush  and  Battery 
streets,  is  a handsome  bronze  fountain.  It  is  dedi- 
cated by  the  donor,  James  Mervyn  Donahue,  to  the 
mechanics,  in  honor  of  his  father,  Peter  Donahue,  a 
pioneer  machinist  and  founder  of  the  Union  Iron  Works.  Sur- 
mounting the  fountain  is  a spirited  bronze  group,  designed  by 
Douglas  Tilden,  a man  of  genius,  though  a deaf  mute.  The 
fountain  was  ere&ed  in  1899,  and  cost  $25,000. 

Lotta’s  Fountain,  Tetrazzini’s  TABLET.-At  the  busiest 
point  of  Market  street,  where  Geary  and  Kearny  streets  meet, 
the  center  of  newspaper  square,  stands  Lotta’s  fountain.  Not 
beautiful  to  the  eye,  it  is  dear  to  the  hearts  of  ail  San  Francis- 
cans, both  because  it  speaks  of  the  love  of  the  giver  for  the  city 
which  saw  the  beginning  of  her  career  and  because  so  much  that 
is  characteristic  of  the  city  has  occurred,  and  is  occurring,  in  its 
vicinity.  “In  the  old  Union  Theater  on  Commercial  street,  above 
Kearny,  Little  Lotta,  as  she  was  then  known,  was  a great  favor- 
ite,” says  S.  D.  Woods,  in  his  Life  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  “She  was 
a young  girl  with  a wonderful  fascination,  and  with  just  the  mood 
and  temper  to  catch  the  fancy  of  the  miners  from  the  mines.  She 
was  always  attended  at  the  theater  by  her  mother  and  father.  * * 
Many  a time  have  I seen  her,  after  her  song  and  dance,  stand 
in  a rain  of  gold  flung  to  her  by  enthusiastic  miners.” 

The  fountain  was  ereCled  in  1875.  ^ was  from  a platform 
near  it  that  Tetrazzini  sang  on  Christmas  Eve,  1910.  A tablet 
commemorating  this  event  and  dedicated  to  Tetrazzini  has  been 
affixed  to  the  fountain,  Lotta  Crabtree  having  most  graciously 

[i8°] 


MONUMENTS 

accorded  permission.  The  tablet,  designed  by  Haig  Patigian,  was 
unveiled  on  March  24,  1912.  It  is  near  this  fountain  that  the 
flower  vendors  gather.  How  glad  we  were  after  our  period  of  des- 
olation to  see  them  back  again,  their  wares  making  gay  the  side- 
walks and  filling  the  air  with  fragrance!  From  one  month  to 
another,  throughout  the  whole  year,  there  is  no  break  in  the  suc- 
cession of  flowers-ten  cents  a bunch-choose  from  the  variety  if 
you  can. 

The  Native  Sons’  MoNUMENT.-Further  up  Market  street, 
at  its  junction  with  Turk  and  Mason,  stands  a monument  given 
by  James  D.  Phelan  to  commemorate  the  admission  of  California 
into  the  Union.  It  was  erected  in  1897,  unveiled  on  Admission 
Day  (September  9)  and  dedicated  to  the  Native  Sons  of  the 
Golden  West.  It  is  a drinking  fountain  surmounted  by  a col- 
umn of  California  granite.  On  the  column  stands  a bronze  fig- 
ure of  an  angel  holding  aloft  an  open  book  on  which  is  inscribed 
the  date  of  California’s  admission.  At  the  base  of  the  shaft  stands 
a miner  with  a pick  in  his  right  hand,  while  in  his  left  he  holds 
high  an  American  flag,  with  California’s  new  star  in  the  field. 
This  was  designed  by  Douglas  Tilden. 

The  Soldiers’  Monument.— Another  monument  designed 
by  Douglas  Tilden  stands  at  the  foot  of  Van  Ness  avenue,  at  its 
junction  with  Market  street.  It  was  ere&ed  by  the  citizens  of  San 
Francisco  in  honor  of  the  California  Volunteers  in  the  Spanish- 
American  war. 

Lone  Mountain  CR0ss.-In  the  western  part  of  the  city 
there  is  an  abrupt,  conical  hill,  the  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross 
(called  Lone  Mountain)  upon  which  stands  a large  cross,  visible 
from  almost  every  quarter.  It  has  a striking  effect,  and  is  a fit- 
ting symbol  to  dominate  over  the  city  of  Saint  Francis. 

Other  monuments, such 
as  those  in  the  Golden  Gate 
Park,  the  Lick  statuary  in 
City  Hall  Park,  the  Steven- 
son memorial  in  Portsmouth 
square  and  the  Dewey  mon- 
ument in  Union  square,  have 
been  described  elsewhere. 

[■8,] 


The  Donahue  Fountain. 


Newspaper  Square.  Lotto’s  Fountain  and  the  Chronicle  Corner. 


Chapter  Twenty-jive  • The  Press 

When  Walter  Colton,  the  chaplain  of  the  frigate  Con- 
gress, was  made  Alcalde  of  Monterey,  he  found 
among  the  articles  turned  over  to  him  an  old  print- 
ing press  and  fonts  of  Spanish  type.  In  conjunction 
with  Robert  Semple  he  issued  on  August  15,1846, 
the  first  newspaper  of  California.  Rules  and  leads  were  made 
from  sheets  of  tin,  and  the  only  paper  to  be  found  was  that  used 
for  making  cigarritos— brown  sheets,  about  foolscap  size.  To  ac- 
commodate the  mixed  population  of  Monterey,  the  newspaper 
was  partly  Spanish  and  partly  English.  As  the  Spanish  font  con- 
tained no  letter  “w,”  the  English  part  presented  a curious  ap- 
pearance, double  “v”  being  substituted  for  the  missing  letter.  The 
pages  bristled  with  vve,  two,  was,  and  similar  examples.  After 
thirty-eight  weekly  numbers  the  Californian , as  the  paper  was 
christened,  was  moved  to  San  Francisco  and  the  first  number 
issued  here  May  22,  1847. 

In  the  meantime  Samuel  Brannan,  who  had  brought  a print- 
ing plant  around  the  Horn,  issued  on  January  9,  1847,  the  first 
number  of  the  California  Star , the  first  newspaper  published  in 
San  Francisco.  The  press  used  by  Brannan  is  now  in  the  museum 
in  Golden  Gate  Park.  Before  the  middle  of  1848  both  papers 
had  suspended  publication-editors,  printers  and  “devils”  being 
all  off  for  the  mines.  The  Californian  was  revived  in  July;  later 
in  the  same  year  the  proprietors  of  the  Star  bought  the  Califor- 
nian and  the  two  were  united  under  the  name  of  the  Star  and 
Californian . The  following  year  the  name  Alta  California  was 
substituted  and  under  this  title  the  paper  was  issued  for  more 
than  forty  years,  a large  part  of  the  time  under  the  editorship  of 

[182] 


THE  PRESS 

Mr.  Frank  Soule.  On  January  22,  1850,  it  became  a daily,  with 
an  annual  subscription  price  of  twenty-five  dollars.  A rival  daily, 
the  Journal  of  Commerce , was  launched  one  day  later  by  Wash- 
ington Bartlett,  the  first  Alcalde  of  Yerba  Buena  and,  forty  years 
after,  the  sixteenth  Governor  of  the  State.  Bartlett  was  interested 
at  different  times  in  the  Evening  Journal , the  Evening  News  and 
the  Prue  Californian . In  1850  appeared  the  Pacific  News  and  in 
1851  the  Daily  Herald . By  1853  there  were  in  San  Francisco 
twelve  daily  newspapers,  one  of  them  German;  two  tri-weeklies, 
both  French;  six  weeklies  and  two  monthlies.  The  Chronicle 
(unrelated  to  the  present  Chronicle ),  the  Evening  Picayune , the  Cal- 
ifornia Courier , and  the  W atchman  (a  monthly  religious  paper,  ed- 
ited by  Reverend  Albert  Williams)  were  among  these  periodicals. 

The  Golden  Era , a weekly  founded  in  1852,  was  the  cradle 
of  California  literature.  For  the  Era , Bret  Harte  was  first  com- 
positor, then  contributor  of  the  stories  and  sketches  which  formed 
the  beginning  of  his  literary  career.  M'liss  and  many  of  the  Con- 
densed Novels  first  saw  the  light  in  the  pages  of  the  Era.  Charles 
Warren  Stoddard  wrote  for  it  when  little  more  than  a boy,  at  first 
over  the  name  of  Pip  Pepperpod.  Mark  Twain,  who  had  drifted 
in  from  Virginia  City  and  was  then  a reporter  on  the  Call , found 
congenial  companions  in  the  Era  office  and  was  soon  a contrib- 
utor, along  with  Dan  de  Quille  (William  H.  Wright)  who  had 
been  associated  with  him  on  the  Virginia  City  Enterprise.  Joaquin 
Miller,  then  but  a youth,  sent  in  little  poems  which  hardly  fore- 
shadowed his  mature  work.  He  was  no  less  impressed  by  the 
finely  furnished  Era  office  than  by  the  company  he  found  there. 
“The  Era  rooms/’ he  says, “were  elegant,  the  most  grandly  car- 
peted and  most  gorgeously  furnished  that  I had  ever  seen.  Even 
now  in  my  memory  they  seem  to  have  been  simply  palatial,  and  I 
have  seen  the  world  well  since 
then.”  The  company  might 
include,  besides  those  men- 
tioned above,  Thomas  Starr 
, Adah  Isaacs  Menken, 

Prentice  Mulford,  Artemus 
Ward,  Orpheus  C.  Kerr  and 
en  Massett;  for  they 

83] 


Miller’s  House  on  the  Heights  Back  of  Oakland. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

were  all  contributors,  along 
with  many  others.  Stephen 
Massett,  whose  pen  name  was 
Colonel  Jeems  Pipes,  lived  in 
a tiny  house  which  he  called 
Pipesville,  on  a creek  then 
flowing  near  the  present  cor- 
ner of  Seventh  and  Mission 
streets,  where  the  Postoflice 
Building  now  stands.  An  old 
painting,  showing  this  house  and  the  toll-gate  on  the  Mission 
road,  is  in  the  Pioneer  room  of  the  Golden  Gate  Park  museum. 

For  thirty  years  the  Era  led  an  existence  of  varying  for- 
tunes, succumbing  finally  to  too  many  women  writers,  accord- 
ing to  the  verdid  of  J.  Macdonough  Ford,  one  of  its  founders 
and  editors.  “They  killed  it,”  he  said, “with  their  namby-pamby, 
school-girl  trash.”  Though  perhaps  the  paper  did  become  too 
much  feminized,  interest  surrounds  the  names  of  many  of  its 
women  contributors  and  some  conferred  lustre  upon  it.  During 
the  declining  years  of  the  Era , Palmer  Cox  contributed  little 
pidures  and  poems  similar  to  the  Brownie  pidures  and  poems 
which  afterwards  made  him  famous. 

The  Pioneer  was  the  earliest  monthly  magazine  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  Reverend  Ferdinand  Ewer,  afterwards  redor  of  Grace 
Episcopal  Church,  was  editor  during  1854,  the  single  year  of  its 
existence.  Edward  Pollock,  Colonel  Derby  (John  Phoenix),  John 
Hittell  and  Frank  Soule  were  among  its  contributors.  Its  most 
noteworthy  produdion  was  a tale  by  Mr.  Ewer,  entitled  Ehe 
Eventful  Nights  of  August  20th  and  21st , an  imaginary  glimpse 
into  life  beyond  the  grave.  The  story  was  received  by  many  as 
founded  on  fad  and  made  a great  stir  in  spiritualistic  circles.  In 
vain  did  Mr.  Ewer  deny  a foundation  for  his  fantasy.  The  cir- 
cumstances of  the  story  were  gravely  discussed  and  mediums 
certified  that  it  had  been  written  under  spiritualistic  control. 

The  name  “Californian”  has  been  revived  several  times 
since  the  original  was  merged  into  the  Alta  California . In  1858, 
James  M.  Hutchings,  gave  the  name  to  the  magazine  which  he 
founded  to  make  known  to  the  outside  world  the  glories  of  the 

[ 1 S4] 


THE  PRESS 

Yosemite.  The  Weekly  Californian , published  and  edited  by 
Charles  Henry  Webb  (known  also  to  the  reading  world  as  John 
Paul),  lived  from  1864  to  1867.  Contemporary  Eastern  papers 
characterized  it  as  “the  best  literary  paper  ever  known  on  the 
Pacific  Coast, ’’and  as“agood  token  for  the  literary  taste  of  the 
land  of  gold.”  Webb  himself  said  later,' “ I was-and  am— rather 
proud  of  that  paper.  * * To  the  Californian , under  my  manage- 
ment, many  who  have  since  obtained  wide-spread  reputations 
contributed,  and  it  was  called  considerable  of  a paper-to  be  pub- 
lished so  far  away  from  Boston.  * * It  has  sometimes  occurred 
to  me  that  possibly  the  Californian  did  something  toward  bringing 
out  the  latent  genius  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  a genius  which  has  since 
blossomed  to  such  an  extraordinary  degree  that  much  has  been 
transplanted  to  the  nutritious  soil  of  Plymouth  Rock.”  Before 
it  was  transplanted  it  blossomed  in  the  Overland , and  the  Cali- 
fornian was,  in  a sense,  the  nucleus  of  that  magazine.  In  the 
Californian  Bret  Harte  continued  his  Condensed  Novels;  and  many 
poems,  essays  and  sketches,  editorials  and  book  reviews  by  him 
were  scattered  through  its  pages.  To  the  Californian  Mark  Twain 
contributed  ’The  Jumping  Frog  of  Calaveras , the  first  of  his  writ- 
ing that  attracted  wide-spread  attention. 

The  Californian  Magazine , a monthly,  Western  in  character, 
was  published  from  1880  to  1882.  Frederick  M.  Somers,  one  of 
the  founders  of  the  Argonaut , was  its  editor.  It  was  often  called 
Somers'  Calif  ornian^  to  distinguish  it  from  the  earlier  weekly  edited 
by  Webb  and  the  later  Californian  Illustrated  Magazine , pub- 
lished and  edited  by  Charles  Frederick  Holder.  The  list  of  con- 
tributors to  Somers'  Californian  is  long  and  glorious,  embracing, 
as  it  does,  Edward  Rowland  Sill,  Ambrose  Bierce,  Joaquin  Mil- 
ler, John  and  Theodore  Hittell,  D.  S.  Richardson,  John  Muir, 
Josiah  Royce,  Lucius  Har- 
wood Foote, William  C. Mor- 
row, Yda  Addis,  Katherine 
Lee  Bates,  Ina  Coolbrith, 

Kate  Douglas  Wiggin  and 
Margaret  Collier  Graham. 

The  Overland  Monthly , 
conceived  in  the  brain  of 

[i85i 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Bret  Harte,  made  its  appear- 
ance in  i8683  with  Anton 
Roman  as  publisher  and  Bret 
Harte  in  the  editorial  chair. 
It  was  here  that  Bret  Harte 
found  himself.  Against  the 
protests  of  printer  and  proof- 
reader, but  loyally  sustained 
(though  with  forebodings)  by 
the  publisher,  he  brought  out 
in  the  second  number  of  the  Overland  his  story  of  The  Luck  of 
Roaring  Camp . It  was  at  once  denounced  by  the  religious  press 
of  California  and  coldly  received  by  the  secular;  but  Harte’s 
faith  in  his  own  genius  and  judgment  and  Roman’s  faith  in  Harte 
were  justified  when  the  return  mail  from  the  East  brought  reviews 
which  hailed  “the  little  foundling  of  Californian  literature”  with 
enthusiastic  welcome,  and  also  brought  from  the  publishers  of 
the  Atlantic  Monthly  a flattering  request  for  a similar  story  upon 
liberal  terms.  The  Heathen  Chinee  added  to  Harte’s  popularity 
in  the  East  and  the  ultimate  eflebt  was  to  draw  him  to  the  At- 
lantic Coast.  B.  P.  Avery  and  William  C.  Bartlett  followed  him 
as  editors  of  the  Overland . This  magazine  developed  the  literary 
talent  which  had  been  cradled  in  the  Golden  Era  and  nurtured  in 
the  Californian.  Added  to  the  notable  names  of  their  contributors 
was  a long  list  which,  if  they  did  not  surpass  the  greatest  among 
them,  were  worthy  to  keep  them  company.  Louis  Agassiz,  Joseph 
Le  Conte,  J.  D.  Whitney,  President  Gilman  (then  of  theUniver- 
sity  of  California,  later  of  Johns  Hopkins),  Bishop  Kip,  the 
Reverend  S.  H.  Willey,  Henry  George,  J.  Ross  Browne,  Noah 
Brooks, Clarence  King,  Frances  FullerVibtor  and  Sarah  B.  Cooper 
were  a few  of  the  distinguished  number.  The  part  of  Macaenas 
to  these  contributors  was  played  by  John  Carmany  who  became 
publisher  after  the  first  year.  He  sank  over  thirty  thousand  dol- 
lars in  the  Overland , yet,  notwithstanding  his  losses,  in  later 
years  he  looked  back  upon  that  time  as  the  brightest  of  his  life. 
The  name  of  the  Overland  was  revived  in  1882  and  has  been 
honorably  borne  by  the  magazine  which  still  survives.  The  list 
of  contributors  to  this  second  series  is  also  a long,  brilliant  one. 

[.86] 


Chinamen  Reading  Bulletins.  The  Moon  Festival. 


THE  PRESS 

During  the  Civil  War  the  American  Flag  gave  powerful  sup- 
port to  the  Union  cause.  It  was  edited  by  Calvin  B.  McDonald, 
a Scotchman  who  wielded  a gifted  and  a powerful  pen.  His  life 
closed  in  darkness  and  poverty  a few  years  ago  in  a public  insti- 
tution in  Alameda  county. 

The  oldest  of  our  present  weeklies  is  the  San  Francisco  News 
Letter , founded  in  1856  by  Frederick  Marriott,  also  founder  of 
the  Illustrated  London  News . He  was  succeeded  by  his  son, 
Frederick  Marriott  Jr.  The  News  Letter  was  at  first  literally 
what  its  name  implies— a single  sheet  of  letter  paper,  on  one  side 
of  which  were  printed  three  columns  of  news.  It  was  to  be  folded 
for  mailing  and  addressed  on  the  blank  side.  It  has  grown  to  a 
forty-page  weekly,  with  so  large  a circulation  that  it  is  highly 
valued  as  an  advertising  medium.  Its  special  numbers  have  con- 
tained many  fine  stories  and  poems,  and  handsome  illustrations. 
Ambrose  Bierce,  Peter  Robertson  and  John  Gilmour  were  note- 
worthy contributors.  Wallace  Irwin  was  its  editor  during  1901, 
going  from  the  News  Letter  to  the  Overland  Monthly . 

The  Wasp , now  issued  by  the  Wasp  Publishing  Company, 
was  founded  in  1876  by  Korbel  Brothers.  It  was  the  first  cartoon 
paper  in  colors  in  the  United  States.  Able  writers  and  quick- 
witted cartoonists  have  filled  its  pages.  It  has  published  some 
notable  special  numbers,  among  them  the  sixty-page  twentieth- 
anniversary  number,  filled  with  sketches  and  pictures  of  early 
days  in  San  Francisco.  The  paper  is  now  one  of  the  leading 
weeklies,  devoted  to  politics  and  society,  finance  and  art.  The 
theatrical  and  society  notes  are  eagerly  read  and  each  number 
contains  a couple  of  interesting  columns  on  books  and  authors. 

The  Argonaut  is  a weekly  journal  of  wide  circulation,  giving 
brilliant  and  forceful  commentary  on  political,  literary  and  social 
matters,  both  local  and  gen- 
eral.Itwas  founded  in  1 877  by 
Fred  M.  Somers  and  Frank 
Pixley.  In  1 879  Mr.  Somers 
gave  up  his  position  to  found 
the  Californian  Magaxine  and 
the  Epigram.  Later  he  went 
to  New  York  and  founded 

,87] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Current  Literature  and  Short  Stories . Mr.  Somers’  place  on  the 
Argonaut  was  taken  by  Jerome  A.  Hart,  who  became  chief  editor 
on  the  death  of  Pixley.  After  the  fire  in  1906  Mr.  Hart  sold  the 
paper  to  Alfred  Holman,  the  present  editor.  Frank  Pixley  was  a 
writer  of  great  vigor.  His  caustic  anti-catholic  editorials  attracted 
wide-spread  attention.  He  made  th z Argonaut  a power  in  politics 
as  well  as  in  the  literary  world.  Mr.  Hart  was  an  able  writer  who 
carried  forward  the  high  literary  standards  of  the  paper,  and  its 
chief  characteristics  are  preserved  by  the  present  editor.  Mrs. 
Austin,  a sister  of  Jerome  Hart,  who  adopted  Betsy  B.  as  her 
pseudonym,  carried  on  until  her  death  a delightful  dramatic 
department.  This  was  continued  by  Josephine  Hart.  Through- 
out its  career  the  Argonaut  has  been  characterized  by  able  liter- 
ary and  dramatic  criticism,  by  good  poetry  (both  original  and 
selected)  and  by  a wonderful  series  of  short  stories,  original  or 
translated.  The  roll  of  writers  for  the  Argonaut  is  a shining  one, 
embracing  nearly  all  the  brightest  names  included  between  1877 
and  the  present  time.  To  the  names  already  mentioned  in  con- 
nection with  other  journals  should  be  added  that  of  the  ill-fated 
poet,  Richard  Realf,and  those  of  Gertrude  Atherton,  Gwendolyn 
Overton,  Geraldine  Bonner,  W.  C.  Morrow  and  Frank  Bailey 
Millard,  all  of  whose  short  stories  were  distinctly  Argonautic. 

The  San  Franciscan  led  a short,  but  distinguished,  existence 
from  1884  to  1886.  It  was  a literary  journal  of  independent 
tone.  Its  first  editor  was  Joseph  Goodman,  formerly  editor  of 
the  territorial  Enterprise  of  Virginia  City,  Nevada,  whose  pages 
were  illumined  by  the  early  writings  of  Mark  Twain  and  Dan 
de  Quille.  Both  contributed  to  the  San  Franciscan , along  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomas  Fitch,  Arthur  McEwen,  Sam  Davis, 
Joaquin  Miller,  Flora  Haines  Loughead,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Adley 

H.  Cummins  and  many  other 
well-known  writers.  Arthur 
McEwen  and  W.  P.  Harrison 
followed  Mr.  Goodman  as 
editors. 

The  Wave," A Journal 
for  those  in  the  Swim” first 
washed  the  shores  of  Mon- 

[188] 


Looking  Down  Montgomery  Street. 


■TO  *RE/iE/1BEP. 
ROBERT  UM! 5 

'SfEVEWSOro 

TO  BE  flCjNEST  _rO  fcC 

-- 

TLE  LESS  - TO  t • !•  r 
yPO*  f THE  "I  fOS  E A 
faphl*  M/0Pr_r  ~r P 
HI5  PPE SO  ' F - " - 

NGVCE  V t‘  ■ T / T 
'SHALLLT-  ’.C"  '' 

■ : : ■ : : ’ 

. 

■ 

wfitoapiivi/  ” 
IGtl-ufMjt  f IL  ' 

HEP E fS  A tevK  FOP 
AiLTHATM/dmi  ii/-  S 
OF  FO&mAppAfiD 


Fountain  Erected  in 
Portsmouth  Square  to  the  Mem- 
ory of  Robert  Louis 
Stevenson. 

Photograph  by 
Charles  Weidner. 


At  the  Stevenson  Fountain. 

Perchance,  from  out  the  thousands  passing  by— 
The  city’s  hopeless  lotos-eaters  these , 

Blown  by  the  four  winds  of  the  seven  seas 
From  common  want  to  common  company— 
Perchance  someone  may  lift  his  heavy  eye 
And  smile  with  freshening  memory  when  he  sees 
Those  golden  pennons  bellying  in  the  breeze 
And  spread  for  ports  where  fair  adventures  lie. 
And  O,  that  such  a one  might  stay  a space 
And  taste  of  sympathy , till  to  his  ears 
Might  come  the  tale  of  him  who  knew  the  grace 
To  suffer  sweetly  through  the  bitter  years , 

And  catch  the  smiles  concealed  in  Fortune’ s face. 
And  draw  contentment  from  a cup  of  tears. 

— Wallace  A.  Irwin. 


THE  PRESS 

terey  bay  in  1884,  then,  following  up  the  coast,  became  the  San 
Francisco  Wave.  The  editors,  Hugh  Hume  and  J.  O’Hara 
Cosgrove,  both  young  men,  encouraged  California  writers,  and 
the  Wave  contained  many  original  stories  of  local  color  from  the 
pens  of  W.  C.  Morrow,  Arthur  McEwen,  Ambrose  Bierce,  G.  A. 
Danziger,  Henry  Bigelow  and  others.  In  the  Wave  Frank  Nor- 
ris served  his  apprenticeship,  and  Will  Irwin  tells  us  that  the 
back  files  furnish  ua  surpassing  study  of  the  novelist  in  the  mak- 
ing.” Gelett  Burgess  calls  Norris’ work  in  the  Wave“the  studio 
sketches  of  a great  novelist.”  From  about  1895  his  hand  could' 
be  traced,  first  in  distinctive  sketches,  followed  by  his  Little  Sto- 
ries of  the  Pavements , then  longer  stories  and,  finally,  Moran  of  the 
Lady  Letty , which  was  published  serially.  Like  others  of  our 
brightest  lights,  Norris  was  eventually  drawn  East  by  the  interest 
which  his  work  aroused  there.  His  untimely  death  was  a sad 
blow  to  the  world  of  letters.  The  Wave  was  a society  chronicle 
as  well  as  a literary  paper,  with  departments  devoted  to  music, 
the  drama,  pidures,  books  and  sport.  It  died  (Will  Irwin  says) 
of  too  much  merit. 

Town  Talkfthe  Pacific  Weekly ,”is  a society  journal  about 
twenty  years  old.  The  sketches,  called  Varied  Types,  are  one  of 
its  interesting  features.  The  bright  paragraphs  of  the  Spectator 
range  over  a wide  field,  including  politics,  the  theater,  amusing 
anecdotes  and  personal  gossip, mostly  touching  local  affairs.  Other 
departments  are  Social  Prattle,  Theater  Gossip,  Auto  Notes, 
Financial  Outlook  and  Book  Notes. 

In  1895  the  joyous  Lark  soared  into  view,  trilling  an  entirely 
new  note  in  the  journalistic  world.  Gelett  Burgess,  Bruce  Porter 
and  a few  other  congenial  souls  were  responsible  for  its  existence. 
William  Doxey  was  the  publisher.  Rhyme  and  picture  portrayed 
in  its  pages  new  orders  of 
being— the  Purple  Cow  and 
theChewing-GumMan.  The 
life  of  the  Lark  was  a short 
and  merry  one,  but  it  was  not 
all  fun.  An  undercurrent  of 
earnest  ideals  was  glimpsed 
now  and  then. 

[ i89] 


The  Spreckels  or  Call  Building.  Hearst  Building  Beyond. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

A minor  magazine  which 
was  wholly  ideal  was  Paul 
Elder’s  Impressions  Quarterly. 
Beautifully  printed  (with  an 
illuminated  sele&ion,  or  a 
choice  picture  for  its  frontis- 
piece), it  contained  a few  orig- 
inal articles  of  an  intimate 
type  and  a poem  or  two,  just 
enough  to  whet  the  appetite. 

The  W estern  W eekly , late  the  Tattler  > takes  the  latter  name 
as  sub-title.  It  is  published  by  the  Wheeler-Reid  Publishing 
Company.  It  contains  sketches,  a story,  comment  on  current 
events,  theatrical  and  financial  departments  and  book  reviews, 
with  many  illustrations.  Although  a comparatively  recent  jour- 
nal, it  has  made  a place  for  itself. 

Sunset  is  an  excellent  monthly  magazine  published  by  the 
Southern  Pacific  Company  and  devoted  to  the  interests  of  the 
Pacific  Coast.  Having  recently  joined  forces  with  the  Pacific 
Monthly , the  latter  name  is  used  as  sub-title.  The  present  edi- 
tor is  Charles  K.  Field,  associate  of  the  former  editor,  Charles  S. 
Aiken.  Mr.  Field’s  delightful  little  poems  have  illumined  many 
phases  of  San  Francisco  life. 

The  Bulletin , the  oldest  of  our  present  dailies,  was  founded 
in  1855  by  James  King  of  William  and  C.  O.  Geberding.  Mr. 
King  in  his  editorials  fearlessly  attacked  the  corruption  and 
criminal  pra&ices  which  were  prevalent  in  the  city.  Having  de- 
nounced James  Casey  (an  ex-convid)  for  ballot-box  stuffing,  he 
was  shot  down  in  the  street  by  Casey.  This  assassination  caused 
the  formation  of  the  second  Vigilance  Committee.  James  King’s 
brother, Mr.  Thomas  King, succeeded  him  in  the  editorship.  Mr. 
Theodore  Hittell  was  for  several  years  in  charge  of  the  local  de- 
partment. He  was  also  law  reporter  for  the  Chronicle  of  the  Fifties, 
the  Daily  Herald  and  several  other  papers.  The  Bulletin  passed 
through  different  hands  as  owners  and  editors, Messrs. G.K. Fitch 
and  Loring  Pickering  retaining  their  proprietorship  the  longest. 
Owned  by  R.  A.  Crothers,  it  is  now,  under  the  editorship  of  Mr. 
Fremont  Older,  the  leading  evening  paper  of  San  Francisco. 

[190] 


THE  PRESS 

The  Post  made  its  first  appearance  in  December,  1871,  under 
the  editorship  of  Henry  George,  of  single-tax  fame.  Mark  Twain 
was  one  of  its  early  reporters.  Having  been  consolidated  with 
the  later  Globe , it  is  now  published  afternoons  under  the  hyphen- 
ated title. 

The  Daily  News  is  a evening  penny  paper  of  later  birth, 
with  a large  and  growing  circulation. 

The  Call  is  the  oldest  of  our  morning  dailies.  The  first 
number  appeared  December  1,  1856,  under  the  management  of 
the  Associated  Practical  Printers.  It  was  then  a four-page  sheet, 
about  twelve  by  twelve.  It  was  later  owned  and  conducted  by 
the  then  proprietors  of  the  Bulletin , Messrs.  Simonton,  Fitch  and 
Pickering.  For  three  years  it  was  condu&ed  by  Charles  and  Sam- 
uel Shortridge,  with  the  former  as  editor.  In  1897  Mr.  John  D. 
Spreckels  was  announced  as  owner.  Mark  Twain  was  a reporter 
for  the  Call . Adeline  Knapp  and  Charlotte  Perkins  Stetson  were 
among  contributors  not  previously  mentioned. 

The  Examiner , founded  as  a Democratic  evening  paper,  was 
first  issued  January,  1865;  William  S.  Moss,  publisher,  and  B.  F. 
Washington,  editor.  Messrs.  Phil  Roach  and  George  Pen  John- 
ston were  later  associated  in  the  proprietorship.  From  them 
Senator  Hearst  bought  the  paper  in  1880.  He  converted  it  into 
a morning  paper,  and  in  1887  gave  it  to  his  son,  Hon.  William 
Randolph  Hearst.  Within  a week  it  was  issued  as  an  eight-page 
paper,  the  first  daily  of  that  size  in  California.  Ambrose  Bierce’s 
column  of  “Prattle,”  his  short  stories  and  verse  have  been  a dis- 
tinctive, literary  feature  of  the  Examiner . W.  C.  Morrow,  Ger- 
trude Atherton  and  Arthur  McEwen  have  likewise  been  valued 
contributors.  A dramatic  department,  conducted  for  some  years 
by  Adele  Chretien,  and  the  studies  of  human  nature  by  Winifred 
Black  (whose  pen  name  is 
Annie  Laurie)  attracted  many 
readers  to  th ^Examiner.  Allan 
Kelly  and  Henry  Bigelow 
were  noteworthy  early  re- 
porters of  the  Examiner  who 
interviewed  stage  robbers  or 
captured  grizzly  bears  or,  to 

[ 1 9 1 ] 


masBsaiag 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

test  the  life-saving  apparatus, 
jumped  from  the  ferry  boat- 
all  in  a day's  work,  all  for 
the  glory  of  the  Examiner , 
which  introduced  a new  type 
of  journalism  and  was  the 
first  of  the  Hearst  newspa- 
pers. 

The  San  Francisco  Chron- 
The  Chronicle  Building.  icle  is  the  outcome  of  a small 

four-page  sheet  which  the  brothers,  Charles  and  M.  H.  deYoung 
published  as  an  advertisement  and  program  of  the  California 
theater  when  it  was  at  its  height.  Spicy  items  and  excerpts  from 
good  writers  lent  interest  to  the  little  paper  and  the  Dramatic 
Chronicle  had  many  readers.  With  the  musical,  theatrical  and 
local  notes  it  gradually  became  a chronicle  of  daily  San  Fran- 
ciscan life.  August  18,  1868,  the  word  “Dramatic”  was  dropped 
from  the  headline  and  a daily  morning  paper  of  general  interest 
took  the  place  of  the  former  little  sheet.  Soon,  under  the  capable 
management  of  the  two  brothers,  it  made  its  way  to  the  front. 
Charles  deYoung’s  tragic  death  left  his  brother  sole  proprietor. 
M.  H.  deYoung  is  a man  widely  known,  both  as  an  able  news- 
paperman, familiar  with  every  detail  of  the  business,  and  as  a man 
of  great  executive  ability.  He  was  Vice-President  and  California 
Commissioner  of  the  Chicago  World’*s  Fair  in  1893,  President 
of  the  California  Midwinter  Fair  in  the  following  year,  and  is 
now  chairman  of  the  Committee  on  Concessions  and  Admission 
of  the  Panama-Pacific  Exposition  of  1915.  John  P.  Young  has 
for  many  years  been  the  managing  editor  of  the  Chronicle . Peter 
Robertson  was  for  years  the  conscientious  dramatic  editor,  with 
a large  following  of  readers  who  depended  upon  his  judgment. 
For  more  than  a score  of  years  George  Hamlin  Fitch  has  been 
the  literary  editor.  His  columns  of  book  reviews  and  essays  on 
literary  subjedts  in  the  Sunday  Chronicle  have  had  many  eager 
readers  who  became  his  unknown  friends  as  the  years  went  by. 
They  lamented  with  him  the  useless  loss  of  his  precious  library, 
and  bowed  down  with  him  in  sympathetic  grief  over  the  swift- 
following death  of  his  only  son.  He  never  wrought  with  surer 


THE  PRESS 

touch  than  in  the  essays  that  followed  this  great  sorrow.  Too 
valuable  to  be  accorded  only  the  short  life  of  a newspaper  column, 
they  have  been  gathered  into  two  small  volumes -Comfort  Found 
in  Good  Old  Books  and  Modern  English  Books  of  Power.  Will  Irwin 
was  Sunday  editor  of  the  Chronicle  during  1903  and  1904. 

The  fine  buildings  which  are  the  homes  of  these  morning 
dailies  occupy  three  corners  of  newspaper  square.  The  Chronicle 
Building,  an  early  class  A,  steel-frame  structure,  was  being  en- 
larged at  the  time  of  the  fire.  When  the  fire  had  passed,  to  the 
completion  of  the  new  part  was  added  the  task  of  clearing  away 
the  tons  upon  tons  of  debris  and  the  reconstruction  of  the  old 
interior.  We  miss  the  old  clock  tower  with  its  faithful  timepiece', 
so  often  consulted  by  the  commuter  or  busy  shopper;  but  a new 
clock,  hanging  from  the  Market-Street  front  of  the  building, 
does  its  best  to  give  good  service. 

The  Call  (Claus  Spreckels)  Building,  on  account  of  its  tower- 
like aspeCt,  was  by  some  regarded  with  foreboding  when  it  was 
first  built;  but,  though  everything  inflammable  was  consumed  in 
the  great  fire,  the  steel-frame  construction  proved  that  it  could 
be  trusted.  The  building  was  not  essentially  harmed  and  was 
soon  restored  to  its  former  beauty  and  usefulness.  Before  the 
fire  there  was  a very  popular  restaurant  on  the  seventeenth  floor 
which  afforded  a splendid  panoramic  view  of  the  city. 

The  handsome  Examiner  (Hearst)  Building  is  wholly  new 
since  the  fire,  and  worthily  fills  a third  corner  of  the  square. 

On  the  morning  of  April  18,  1906,  the  daily  papers  found 
themselves  unable  to  get  out  their  issues  on  time  but  all  expeCted, 
by  some  means  or  other,  to  serve  their  subscribers  later  in  the 
day.  As  the  devastating  flames  rolled  up  Market  street,  devouring 
everything  in  their  path,  it  was  soon  found  that  there  was  no 
hope  of  saving  the  plants  of 
the  morning  dailies;  so  the 
workers  betook  themselves 
to  the  Bulletin  office  on  Bush 
street,  opposite  the  California 
Hotel,  intending  to  issue  a 
joint  paper  from  there.  Be- 
fore it  could  be  done  they 

[ 1 9 3 ] 

Newspaper  Square.  Unveiling  of  Tetrazzini  Tablet. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

were  again  driven  out— this  time  to  Oakland.  From  the  office  of 
the  Oakland  *T ribune  was  issued  on  the  nineteenth  the  famous 
Call-Chronicle-Examiner  with  its  terrible  headlines, “Earthquake 
and  Fire.  San  Francisco  in  Ruins!”  After  the  nineteenth  each 
staff  published  its  own  paper.  The  persistence  and  enterprise  of 
the  San  Francisco  dailies  at  this  trying  time  spoke  volumes  for 
the  fine  organization  and  the  loyalty  of  the  newspaper  men. 

Many  periodicals  have  been  omitted,  both  of  the  early  days 
and  of  the  present.  A complete  list  would  require  a full  volume. 
For,  from  the  earliest  days,  San  Francisco  has  been  a place  of 
adventuring— for  the  literary  person  as  well  as  for  the  argonaut 
in  search  of  gold.  It  was  the  new,  unknown  land  of  fabulous 
prospe&s-in  art,  literature,  wealth.  Poets,  authors,  adlors,  paint- 
ers, sculptors,  musicians,  gold-seekers  were  drawn  here  as  by  a 
magnet.  And  they  were  not  Americans  only.  They  came  from 
all  parts  of  the  world.  Therefore,  as  with  the  churches  of  San 
Francisco,  the  periodicals  have  had  to  serve  a cosmopolitan  pop- 
ulation and,  from  the  days  of  the  half-Spanish,  half-English 
Californian  of  Colton  and  Semple  until  now,  almost  every  for- 
eigner could  find  a journal  in  his  own  tongue.  At  present  nearly 
every  language  is  embraced  in  the  hundred  and  fifty  daily, weekly 
and  monthly  publications  issued  here. 

Perhaps  too  much  space  has  been  given  to  enumerating  the 
more  notable  men  and  women  who,  from  first  to  last,  have  con- 
tributed to  the  periodicals  of  San  Francisco.  The  list  is  such 
a brilliant  one,  of  those  who  have  cast  their  lives  among  us  or 
spent  a longer  or  shorter  time  in  our  midst;  it  embraces  so 
many  names  of  wide  significance  of  those  who  have  fulfilled  the 
promise  of  their  journalistic  days  that  perhaps  the  San  Fran- 
ciscan may  be  pardoned  some  natural  pride  in  contemplating 

this  Western  nursery  of  lit- 
erature. And  the  children 
that  have  gone  out  from  it 
have  held  it  in  loyal  remem- 
brance; for  no  modern  city 
has  been  so  sung  by  its  poets 
or  received  such  homage 
from  its  prose  writers. 

[194] 


" •"  -■? 

The  CaU-Chronicle-Examiner 

SAN  FRANCISCO.  THURSDAY.  A MRU.  H>,  I0UG. 


EARTHQUAKE  AND  FIRE: 
SAN  FRANCISCO  IN  RUINS  j 


The  Call-Chronicle-Examiner,  April  19,  1906. 


The  Museum  Building  in  Golden  Gate  Park. 

Chapter  ‘Twenty- Six  • How  to  See  the  City 

It  is  unfortunate  that  people  should  come  to  San  Francisco 
without  realizing  how  much  there  is  to  see,  but  it  is  more 
unfortunate  if  they  go  away  without  a knowledge  of  the 
city's  beautiful,  interesting  and  characteristic  features.  The 
beauty  is  owing  to  her  incomparable  situation  between  the 
ocean  and  the  island-studded  bay,  with  ranges  of  hills  bordering 
the  horizon  save  where  the  setting  sun  sinks  into  the  ocean  in 
unmatched  glory.  The  interest  is  largely  due  to  her  history, 
which  compresses  into  a comparatively  short  period  enough  ex- 
perience and  romance  to  spread  over  centuries  of  slower  com- 
munities. The  varied  governments  under  which  she  has  lived,  the 
marked  changes  of  her  different  periods,  the  strangely  cosmopol- 
itan character  of  her  population,  all  have  contributed  to  form  the 
present  city,  to  which  Gertrude  Atherton's  happy  characteriza- 
tion of  the  old  San  Francisco  may  be  still  applied:  CCA  city  that 
has  grown  from  an  Indian  pueblo,  through  the  days  of  Spanish 
dons  and  cForty-niners,'  to  a great,  cosmopolitan  city,  with  a bit 
of  Hong-kong  in  its  middle  and  of  Italy  on  its  skirts.''  Some 
flavor  of  all  these  may  still  be  tasted. 

The  manner  of  seeing  the  city,  and  how  much  shall  be  seen 
in  one  day,  depends  upon  individual  circumstances  and  prefer- 
ences-the  time  and  strength  of  the  sight-seer  and  the  length  of 
the  purse.  For  all  except  the  down-town  district  and  the  street- 
car ride  along  the  Golden  Gate,  an  automobile  is  the  ideal  means 
of  seeing  to  best  advantage  the  fine  residences  of  Pacific  Heights, 
the  Presidio,  Baker's  Beach,  Golden  Gate  Park,  the  Ocean  Boule- 
vard, the  Cliff  House  and  Sutro  Baths.  The  drives  through 
the  Presidio,  Park  and  on  the  Ocean  Boulevard  are  beautiful. 

h95] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

Standing  along  Market 
street,  at  almost  any  hour  of 
the  day,  sight-seeing  automo- 
biles may  be  found,  about  to 
start  on  a trip.  The  price  is 
one  dollar.  By  this  means 
the  city  may  be  seen  quickly 
and  many  of  its  interesting 
features  noted.  The  trip  goes 
through  Golden  Gate  Park 
to  the  Cliff  House,  where  a short  stop  is  made,  and  back  through 
the  park  by  another  routed  Another  trip,  costing  two  dollars, 
gives  the  above,  including  in  addition  the  Presidio  and  Nob  Hill. 

A sight-seeing  street  car  which  leaves  the  foot  of  Market 
street  twice  daily,  at  io  a.  m.  and  2 p.  m.,  will  also,  for  seventy- 
five  cents,  give  an  interesting  trip,  three  and  one-half  hours  long, 
including  the  Sutro  Baths  and  Cliff  House.  This  trip  skirts  the 
rim  of  the  Golden  Gate,  the  beautiful  scenic  route  to  the  beach. 

The  visitor  should  not  fail  to  supplement  such  trips  by  a 
glance  into  some  of  San  Francisco’s  characteristic  shops  and  into 
a few  of  the  larger  stores.  The  Postoffice  and  Mint  should  be 
visited,  Chinatown  and  Portsmouth  Square.  Add  to  these  a look 
into  one  or  two  banks,  the  Savings  Union  at  Grant  Avenue  and 
Market  street,  or  the  Bank  of  California,  on  the  corner  of  Cali- 
fornia and  Sansome  streets,  into  the  three  large  hotels,  a visit  to 
Nob  Hill  and  to  Pacific  Heights,  where  are  most  of  the  finest 
modern  residences,  and  the  visitor  will  not  go  away  ignorant  of 
what  San  Francisco  contains. 

If  visitors  eschew  the  sight-seeing  cars  and  automobiles, 
and  wish  to  do  their  sight  seeing  independently,  below  is  a pro- 
gram showing  how  much  can  be  seen  in  two  days,  with  econ- 
omy of  time.  It  is  assumed  that  the  start  is  made  from  down 
town  and  that  the  day  begins  about  nine  o’clock. 

Look  into  the  Palm  Court  of  the  Palace  Hotel.  Go  from 
there  to  Andrews’  Diamond  Palace  on  Kearny  street,  just  beyond 
the  Chronicle  Building.  Then  visit  the  Emporium,  the  Mint  on 
Fifth  street,  between  Market  and  Mission,  and  the  Postoffice, 
two  blocks  above.  From  the  Postoffice  return  to  Market  street, 

[i96] 


Residence  of  John  D.  Spreckels,  on  Pacific  Heights. 


HOW  TO  SEE  THE  CITY 

take  any  passing  car  going  towards  the  ferries  and  transfer  to 
Kearny  street  north;  take  another  transfer  and  leave  the  Kearny- 
Street  car  at  Clay  street.  Visit  Portsmouth  Square  and  note  the 
Stevenson  Memorial  and  the  new  Hall  of  Justice  opposite.  Take 
a Clay-Street  car  and  ride  three  blocks  east  to  Battery  street,  to 
see  the  new  United  States  Custom  House.  Walk  three  blocks 
south  and  one  west,  to  California  and  Sansome  street,  and  visit 
the  Bank  of  California.  Then  take  a California-Street  car  up  the 
hill,  unless  you  wish  to  see  the  California  Market,  in  which  case 
walk  up  the  first  two  blocks.  Leave  the  car  at  the  Powell-Street 
entrance  of  the  Fairmont  Hotel.  A long  corridor  leads  to  an 
elevator  at  the  end.  On  the  second  landing  is  the  Norman  ban- 
quet room  which  opens  on  the  terrace,  whence,  if  weather  is  clear, 
a fine  view  is  to  be  had.  A staircase  near  the  door  into  the 
Norman  banquet  room  leads  to  the  beautiful  Japanese  shop  of 
George  T.  Marsh  on  the  floor  above.  From  the  corridor  near, 
another  flight  leads  to  the  Laurel  tea  room,  which  opens  into  the 
hotel  lobby.  Leaving  the  hotel  by  the  main  entrance  you  are  on 
the  summit  of  Nob  hill,  once  covered  by  the  homes  of  San  Fran- 
cisco’s railroad  and  silver-mine  magnates.  Opposite  the  Fair- 
mont to  the  west  is  a brownstone  mansion,  formerly  the  Flood 
home,  now  the  property  of  the  Pacific-Union  Club.  On  the  next 
block  west  (the  site  of  the  two  Crocker  homes),  the  Episcopal 
Cathedral  is  building.  Across  California  street  from  the  hotel 
are  the  sites  of  the  old  Stanford  and  Mark  Hopkins  homes;  on 
the  former  a great  apartment  house  is  building,  and  on  the  latter 
is  the  temporary  building  of  the  San  Francisco  Institute  of  Art 
and  School  of  Design.  By  the  Powell-Street  car  return  may  be 
made  to  the  business  center  where  are  many  delightful  places 
for  luncheon,  San  Francisco  being  noted  for  its  restaurants. 

After  luncheon  take  a 
Valencia-Street  car  on  Mar- 
ket street  for  the  old  Mission 
church.  Leave  the  car  where 
it  crosses  Sixteenth  street 
and  walk  two  blocks  west  to 
Dolores  street,  on  which  the 
church  stands.  From  there 

[ 1 97] 


Enjoying  the  Beach. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

a Sixteenth  and  Fillmore-Street  car  will  take  you  to  Fillmore 
street,  where  you  can  transfer  to  the  “Cliff  House”  Sutter-Street 
car  for  the  Sutro  Gardens,  Sutro  Baths,  the  Cliff  House  and  beach. 
These  attractions  will  require  the  balance  of  the  afternoon. 

The  second  morning  look  in  the  City  of  Paris  on  the  cor- 
ner of  Geary  and  Stockton  streets,  go  through  Union  Square  to 
the  St.  Francis,  from  there  to  Marsh’s  at  Powell  and  Post  streets, 
then  to  Sutter  street  and  to  Vickery’s  on  Sutter,  between  Mason 
and  Powell,  down  Sutter  to  Stockton  street,  on  which  (between 
Sutter  and  Post)  is  an  attractive  Japanese  store,  the  Meiji.  From 
there  go  to  Gump’s  on  Post  street,  near  Stockton,  then  down 
Post  to  Shreve’s,  on  the  corner  of  Grant  avenue.  Just  beyond 
Shreve’s  on  Grant  avenue  is  Elder’s  and  across  Grant  avenue, 
on  the  corner  of  Sutter,  is  the  White  House.  From  here  a walk 
of  three  blocks  north  on  Grant  avenue  leads  into  Chinatown. 
The  remainder  of  the  morning  will  probably  be  spent  here,  and 
the  afternoon  may  be  spent  in  Golden  Gate  Park.  If  Chinatown 
is  visited  in  the  evening,  the  morning  time  allotted  to  that  may 
be  taken  for  a visit  to  the  Presidio.  Directions  for  reaching  the 
Park  and  Presidio  and  for  seeing  them  to  the  best  advantage  will 
be  found  in  the  chapters  on  the  Parks  and  Government  Reserva- 
tions. These  places  have  all  been  visited  in  two  days,  but,  of 
course,  time  was  not  taken  in  the  stores  for  much  shopping. 

Besides  the  city  itself,  there  are  trips  in  the  vicinity  natu- 
rally included  by  the  visitor  in  his  sight  seeing,  if  time  allows, 
down  the  peninsula  to  visit  Stanford  University  at  Palo  Alto, 
to  San  Jose  and  the  Lick  Observatory,  perhaps  to  the  Big  Trees 
and  the  beach  of  Santa  Cruz,  to  Half-Moon  bay,  to  Mount 
Tamalpais  and  the  Muir  Woods,  around  the  bay,  to  Vallejo  and 
Mare  Island,  and  to  the  cities  of  Oakland,  Berkeley  and  Alameda 

across  the  bay.  Any  of  these 
trips  can  be  taken  between 
breakfast  and  dinner  and 
some  of  them  will  consume 
only  a few  hours.  Details 
of  these  interesting  trips  will 
be  found  in  the  following 
chapter,1 “The  Environs.” 

[i98] 

Presidio  Terrace.  A San  Francisco  Residence  Park. 


California  Hall  and  Boalt  School  of  Law,  University  of  California. 


Chapter  Twenty-seven  • The  Environs 

Curving  along  the  eastern  shores  of  the  bay  are  the  three 
cities  of  Berkeley,  Oakland  and  Alameda,  the  two  for- 
mer sloping  back  into  the  hills,  while  Alameda  is  level. 
Probably  they  will  all,  together  with  the  cities  down 
the  peninsula,  be  a portion  of  Greater  San  Francisco. 
The  land  upon  which  these  three  cities  are  built  was  at  one  time 
a part  of  the  domain  of  Don  Luis  Peralta  (a  Spanish  soldier  of 
the  Presidio),  which  he  received  in  1820  from  the  Spanish  Gov- 
ernment. There  is  no  knowledge  of  any  settler  previous  to  that 
date.  Don  Luis  had  four  sons.  To  Jose  Domingo,  the  eldest, 
he  gave  the  most  northern  part,  on  which  the  city  of  Berkeley 
is  now  situated;  to  Vicente,  the  second,  he  allotted  the  portion 
now  covered  by  Oakland  and  the  former  village  of  Temescal; 
to  the  third,  Antonio  Maria,  he  gave  the  part  now  occupied  by 
Alameda,  Brooklyn,  Fruitvale  and  Melrose.  Up  to  1850,  they 
dwelt  undisturbed  on  their  large  estates.  After  the  early  explor- 
ations, before  the  Mission  of  San  Francisco  was  founded,  little 
pains  seems  to  have  been  taken  to  become  acquainted  with  the 
eastern  side  of  the  bay.  William  Heath  Davis  says  that  in  his 
early  travels  around  the  bay  he  had  observed  a pi&uresque  spot 
for  a town.  The  site  was  known  as  the  Encinal  de  Temescal,  on 
the  portion  of  the  great  San  Antonio  ranch  belonging  to  Vicente 
Peralta.  Knowing  Peralta  well,  Mr.  Davis,  in  1846,  tried  to  bar- 
gain with  him  for  the  sale  of  this  peninsula,  interesting  a number 
of  the  leading  citizens  of  San  Francisco  in  his  project  of  a new 
town  across  the  bay,  which  was  to  be  the  Brooklyn  of  the  future 
metropolis  opposite.  The  first  offer  was  five  thousand  dollars  for 
two-thirds  of  the  Encinal,  to  build  a Catholic  church,  construct 

[ 1 99] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

a wharf  and  run  a ferry  boat 
from  San  Francisco  to  the 
intended  town.  But  Peralta 
hesitated  about  parting  with 
his  land,  and  the  negotiations 
were  extended  to  the  early 
part  of  1850,  Mr.  Davis  then 
abandoning  the  proje<5t. 

Ini 850, Colonel  Henry  S. 
Fitch  and  four  others  started 
from  San  Francisco  for  Marin  county  in  a small  row  boat.  Ad- 
verse winds  or  unskilful  management  brought  them  to  San  An- 
tonio creek,  near  what  is  now  the  foot  of  Broadway,  Oakland. 
They  were  amazed  to  find  a beautiful  plateau  covered  with  oak 
trees,  as  from  the  San  Francisco  side  it  had  looked  as  if  the  hills 
came  down  to  the  shore.  Colonel  Fitch  recognized  the  possibil- 
ities of  the  spot,  and  secured  a verbal  agreement  from  Vicente 
Peralta  to  sell  him  2,400  acres  on  San  Antonio  creek  (now  Lake 
Merritt)  for  $8,000.  But  Peralta  again  hesitated.  In  the  mean- 
time squatters  were  making  trouble,  by  settling  on  his  land  and 
slaughtering  his  cattle,  and  finally,  in  the  fall  of  1850,  Peralta 
sold  the  site,  which  Mr.  Davis  and  Mr.  Fitch  had  tried  to  buy, 
to  Colonel  “Jack”  Hays,  Major  John  C.  Caperton,  Alexander 
Cost,  Colonel  Irving,  John  Freanor  and  others  for  $11,000. 

In  1852  a town  was  incorporated  and  given  the  name  of 
Oakland,  from  the  grove  of  oaks  in  which  the  first  settlement  was 
made.  In  1 854  it  was  chartered  as  a city.  Up  to  1 869  there  were 
no  buildings  worthy  of  note.  In  that  year  it  was  sele&ed  as  the 
eastern  terminus  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  which  rapidly 
increased  its  importance.  In  1874  it  became  the  county  seat. 

The  Encinal  de  San  Antonio,  or  peninsula  on  which  Ala- 
meda stands,  was  a wilderness  covered  with  evergreen  oak  trees 
in  1850.  For  $14,000  the  land  was  purchased  of  its  owner,  An- 
tonio Maria  Peralta,  by  W.  W.  Chipman  and  Gideon  Aughen- 
baugh.  Colonel  Henry  S.  Fitch  and  William  Sharon  purchased 
an  interest  from  them.  The  town  of  Alameda  was  incorporated 
in  1854  and  in  1885  ^ was  chartered  as  a city.  The  first  settle- 
ment was  near  High  street. 


THE  ENVIRONS 

The  hills  and  shores  of  Berkeley  were  visited  by  Fathers 
Crespi  and  Fages  in  1772,  when  exploring  the  east  side  of  the 
bay  in  their  efforts  to  reach  Point  Reyes  by  land.  It  was  the 
latest  in  settlement  of  the  three  cities  along  the  bay  shore.  The 
site  was  acquired  also  of  the  Peralta  family,  being  a part  of  the 
portion  of  the  oldest  son,  Jose  Domingo.  It  was  named  for 
Bishop  Berkeley,  on  account  of  his  famous  line, “Westward  the 
course  of  empire  takes  its  way.”  The  town  was  incorporated  in 
1878.  It  doubled  in  population  during  the  first  year  after  the 
great  San  Francisco  fire.  The  real  estate  titles  of  these  three 
bay  cities  date  from  the  Peralta  grant. 

Oakland  is  now  a flourishing  city  with  a population  of  over 
150,000,  quite  independent  of  the  greater  city  across  the  bay, 
though  it  furnishes,  along  with  Berkeley  and  Alameda,  thousands 
of  commuters  who  transact  their  daily  business  in  San  Francisco. 
It  is  a city  of  churches,  schools  and  homes,  as  are  also  the  sister 
cities  between  which  it  stands.  There  are  in  Oakland  three  high 
schools,  forty-three  elementary  and  grammar  schools  and  sev- 
eral private  ones;  two  excellent  hotels  and  a third  very  large 
one  just  completed;  a municipal  museum,  a Carnegie  library  and 
many  handsome  business  buildings.  President  Taft  laid  the  cor- 
ner stone  of  a new  city  hall  which  is  to  cost  $ 1,500,000.  Lake 
Merritt  (a  pretty  salt  water  lake,  covering  one  hundred  and  sixty 
acres,  with  park-like  borders)  is  near  the  center  of  the  city. 
Idora  Park,  a large  amusement  park,  provides  recreation  and 
good  music.  Mosswood,  another  pretty  park,  helps  to  keep  the 
people  out  of  doors.  Rides  by  automobile  or  street  car  to  Trestle 
Glen,  Dimond  Canyon,  Leona  Heights,  Fourth  Avenue  Heights 
or  through  the  apricot  and  cherry  orchards  to  Haywards  are  all 
delightful.  The  homes  of  Oakland,  on  winding  streets  which 
follow  the  contour  of  the 
hills,  are  its  chief  charm. 

Lawns  are  green  and  flowers 
run  riot  throughout  the  year. 

The  water-front  of  Oakland 
is  its  most  valuable  asset,  and 
great  enterprises  are  already 
begun  there  whose  cost  will 

[201] 


An  Oakland  Home. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

run  up  into  the  millions, 
giving  brilliant  promise  of 
Oakland’s  importance  as  a 
shipping  port. 

Five  miles  east  of  Oakland, 
in  beautiful  grounds,  stand 
the  eight  fine  buildings  of 
Mills  College,  the  first  col- 
lege for  women  on  the  Pacific 
coast.  The  estate  embraces 
one  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  well  watered  and  planted  with  beau- 
tiful trees,  shrubbery  and  flowers.  The  school  was  opened  in 
1871  by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Cyrus  T.  Mills,  who,  in  1877,  deeded  the 
property  of  the  school  to  a self-perpetuating  board  of  trustees, 
to  be  conducted  as  a non-se&arian  but  Christian  institution  for 
the  higher  education  of  young  women.  The  generous  donors 
remained  in  charge  and  conduced  the  school  together  until  the 
death  of  Dr.  Mills  in  1884,  from  which  time  until  advancing 
years  compelled  her  resignation  Mrs.  Mills  carried  on  the  work 
alone.  In  1885  the  institution  received  its  college  charter  from 
the  State  and  has  since  been  known  as  Mills  College.  Mrs.  Mills, 
who  was  a pupil  and  later  an  associate  of  Mary  Lyon  at  Mount 
Holyoke,  was  succeeded  as  president  by  a woman  of  marked  abil- 
ity, Dr.  Luella  C.  Carson,  formerly  Dean  of  Women  at  the  Uni- 
versity of  Oregon,  Street  cars  run  hourly  from  Twelfth  street 
and  Broadway,  Oakland,  to  the  college. 

Piedmont.— On  the  hills  east  of  Oakland  lies  Piedmont,  a 
suburb  of  Oakland,  yet  really  an  independent  town.  It  is  unsur- 
passed for  location  and  abounds  in  beautiful  homes,  which  increase 
in  size  and  beauty  as  the  hill  is  ascended.  Here  is  Piedmont 
Park,  a natural  glen  with  stream  of  water,  supplemented  by  the 
landscape  gardener’s  art-the  result  is  a beautiful  park  containing 
a Japanese  tea  garden,  a restaurant,  a pretty  and  commodious 
club  room,  an  outdoor  theater  and  tables  for  picnicking.  There 
is  also  a large  art  gallery  containing  over  eight  hundred  paintings. 

Alameda.— South  of  Oakland  is  Alameda,  on  an  island,  the 
San  Antonio  estuary  having  been  conne&ed  with  the  bay  by  an 
artificial  canal.  The  city  is  about  four  miles  long  and  from  three- 

[202] 


THE  ENVIRONS 

quarters  to  one  and  one-half  miles  wide.  The  climate  is  rather 
warmer  than  in  the  other  bay  cities.  Palms  and  pepper  trees 
flourish  abundantly  and  the  streets  are  beautifully  shaded.  The 
peninsula  or  encinal  was  once  covered  with  evergreen  oaks  (en- 
cina  in  Spanish)  and  many  of  these  old  and  pi&uresque  trees 
still  remain. 

Alameda  has  excellent  schools,  a city  hall,  a Carnegie  library 
of  more  than  thirty  thousand  volumes,  and  good  church  build- 
ings. The  population  is  nearly  25,000.  Most  of  the  prettiest 
homes  are  near  the  bay.  Along  this  bay  shore  is  the  best  bathing 
in  the  vicinity. 

Berkeley  lies  north  of  Oakland,  a charming  city  of  over 
40,000  population.  The  University  of  California  is  here,  a co- 
educational institution,  with  over  four  thousand  students  and 
maintaining  a summer  school  which  draws  some  of  the  most 
gifted  men  from  Eastern  and  foreign  universities.  The  Univer- 
sity of  California  was  founded  fifty-four  years  ago  by  three  Yale 
men,  one  of  whom,  Dr.  S.  H.  Willey,  is  still  living  in  Berkeley. 
It  was  first  established  in  Oakland  and  known  as  The  College 
of  California.  Later  it  became  the  State  University  and  in  1873 
was  removed  to  Berkeley.  The  present  president,  Dr.  Benjamin 
Ide  Wheeler,  was  called  here  from  Cornell  University.  The  uni- 
versity has  prospered  wonderfully  under  his  leadership.  The 
campus  is  unsurpassed  for  natural  beauty. 

East  of  the  campus  buildings,  in  a natural  amphitheatre  of 
the  hills,  is  the  celebrated  Greek  Theatre,  modeled  after  that  of 
ancient  Epidaurus.  It  was  the  gift  of  William  R.  Hearst.  Many 
notable  performances  have  been  given  here  and  to  be  a part  of 
the  audience,  whether  by  night  or  day,  is  an  enviable  experience. 
Over  seven  thousand  can  be  comfortably  seated.  Many  times  it 
has  been  packed  to  its  utmost 
capacity  of  standing  room. 

It  is  an  inspiring  vision,  on  a 
sunny  day,  to  see  the  tiers  of 
benches  filled  with  people, 
the  bright  hats  and  parasols 
making  it  look  like  a great 
garden  of  flowers,  pennants 

[2°3] 


Alamedans  at  Play. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

gaily  flying  from  the  poles 
around  the  top  against  the 
background  of  the  encircling 
trees,  with  the  blue  Califor- 
nian sky  over  it  all.  Birds, 
mingling  their  music  with 
the  whispering  of  the  trees, 
add  to  the  enchantment.  Two 
Bach  Festivals  have  been 
held  here,  with  a chorus  of 
two  hundred  voices,  one  hundred  musicians  and  a pipe-organ 
setup  upon  the  stage.  The  best  orchestras  and  bands  have  been 
heard  here.  Bernhardt  has  found  it  a fitting  setting  for  Phedre , 
Margaret  Anglin  for  Antigone  and  Maude  Adams  for  an  exquis- 
ite evening  performance  of  As  Tou  Like  It;  and  the  Ben  Greet 
Company  has  given  here  a rendering  of  A Midsummer  Night's 
Dream  by  moonlight.  Every  year  adds  some  new  and  delightful 
experience.  During  most  of  the  year  concerts  are  given  here  on 
Sunday  afternoon.  The  weather  seldom  forbids. 

All  the  newer  buildings  of  the  campus,  the  Doe  Library 
building,  the  Boalt  Law  Library,  California  Hall,  the  School  of 
Mines,  are  built  by  the  University  Architect,  John  Galen  How- 
ard, after  the  plans  of  the  French  architect,  Bernard,  to  whom 
was  awarded  the  large  prize  offered  by  Mrs.  Phoebe  Hearst  for 
the  best  plans  for  future  buildings,  adapted  to  the  grounds.  The 
competition  was  open  to  architects  of  all  nations,  who  either 
visited  the  grounds  or  were  sent  relief  maps  of  the  campus. 
These  plans  are  a happy  device  to  avoid  the  heterogeneous  build- 
ings, often  characteristic  of  American  universities.  The  campus 
will  grow  in  beauty  with  each  building  added,  and  in  years  to 
come  will  form  a perfeCt  whole. 

Besides  the  university  and  the  public  schools,  there  are  in 
Berkeley  four  theological  seminaries  (Congregational,  Baptist, 
Christian  and  Unitarian),  several  flourishing  private  schools  and 
a State  Institution  for  the  Blind,  Deaf  and  Dumb.  The  last- 
named  is  on  Waring  street,  at  the  head  of  Parker,  a large  insti- 
tution of  several  buildings,  standing  in  well-kept  grounds  among 
an  abundance  of  flowers. 


[2°4] 


THE  ENVIRONS 

In  addition  to  the  fine  university  library,  which  includes 
the  famous  Bancroft  collection  and  several  valuable  bequests, 
there  is  an  excellent  Carnegie  library  belonging  to  the  city.  Of 
good  hotels  there  are  several,  including  the  Shattuck,  recently 
opened. 

The  position  of  Berkeley  is  ideal— a gentle  slope  from  the 
bay  back  into  the  hills— and  this  situation  makes  for  an  unusual 
number  of  beautiful  residence  sites,  from  which  the  views  of  the 
bay,  the  Golden  Gate,  the  hills  and  sunsets  are  superb.  The 
homes  of  North  Berkeley,  the  new  sections  of  Northbrae,  Ken- 
sington, Cragmont,  and  Thousand  Oaks,  and  those  of  Clare- 
mont Park  are  most  of  them  thus  favored.  Nestled  in  the  hills 
of  Claremont  is  a great  million-dollar  hotel,  not  yet  completed. 
It  commands  a wonderful  view  and  the  grounds,  embracing  a 
beautiful  old  garden,  will  add  much  to  its  attractions. 

Between  Berkeley  and  Oakland  is  the  Country  Club,  with 
golf  links  and  tennis  courts.  The  drives  through  Claremont 
Park,  to  Piedmont  and  over  Piedmont  hills  are  very  beautiful. 

The  Key  Route  Trolley  Trips  from  San  Francisco  afford 
the  hurried  traveler  a chance  to  see  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay 
to  good  advantage— a whole  day’s  trip  for  one  dollar,  personally 
conducted.  Berkeley,  with  the  university  and  Greek  Theatre,  is 
seen;  Oakland,  including  Idora  Park  (its  great  amusement  place), 
the  beautiful  residence  seCtion  of  Piedmont,  Piedmont  Park  and 
Art  Gallery  and  the  ostrich  farm  at  Melrose.  Trips  leave  the 
San  Francisco  Key  Route  ferry  at  9:40  and  10:20  a.  m.  Another, 
a half-day’s  trip,  not  including  Idora  Park  and  Piedmont,  leaves 
at  1:20  p.  m.  Price  includes  admittance  to  all  places  mentioned. 

But  the  following  independent  trip  may  be  more  according 
to  one’s  liking:  Take  the  Key  Route  ferry  and  the  Berkeley 
electric  train  connecting  with 
it  across  the  bay.  Leave  the 
train  at  Bancroft  Way  and 
take  street  car  there  for  the 
corner  of  Bancroft  Way  and 
College  avenue.  This  makes 
the  least  uphill  walk  to  reach 
the  Greek  Theatre.  Enter 

[205] 


Claremont  Hotel  and  the  Beautiful  Grounds 
in  Midwinter. 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

the  university  grounds  at  the 
College  Avenue  entrance  and 
take  the  road  uphill  at  the 
right.  The  walls  of  the  thea- 
ter will  soon  be  seen.  After 
viewing  that,  a walk  south 
through  the  campus  will  give 
a glimpse  of  most  of  the  uni- 
versity buildings.  At  the  en- 

A Hint  of  the  Attractions  of  Piedmont  Park.  trance  at  TL  elegraph  avenue 

is  a handsome  memorial  gate,  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Jane  Sather.  The 
walk  should  be  continued  through  the  grounds  to  the  southern 
boundary.  If  ccthe  year’s  at  the  spring”  the  grounds  will  be  fra- 
grant with  the  yellow  blossoms  of  the  acacia,  of  which  many 
varieties  abound  in  the  campus.  There  are  many  other  beautiful 
trees,  the  most  notable  being  the  ancient  live  oaks.  Many  fine 
specimens  are  passed  on  the  walk  to  the  Oxford  Street  entrance. 
The  Euclid  Avenue  car  line  is  only  a short  distance  from  here. 
If  the  day  is  clear,  a ride  to  the  end  of  the  line  will  repay  one. 
By  leaving  the  car  and  walking  a few  rods  down  to  an  open  lot, 
a fine  panoramic  view  is  spread  out  like  a map-San  Francisco, 
the  bay,  the  Golden  Gate  and  the  cities  on  the  eastern  shore. 
Returning  on  the  Euclid  Avenue  line  to  University  avenue,  take 
the  College  Avenue  line  towards  Oakland  and  transfer  to  the 
Piedmont  car  for  Piedmont  Park.  Here  luncheon  may  be  ob- 
tained and  the  art  gallery  visited.  Returning  to  Oakland  a trans- 
fer may  be  made  to  an  East  Oakland  car  passing  the  museum, 
and  from  there  a car  may  be  taken  to  the  ostrich  farm. 

Marin  CouNTY.-Across  the  Golden  Gate,  Mount  Tamal- 
pais  dominates  the  Marin  County  hills.  A trip  to  the  summit 
and  back  may  be  easily  made  in  half  a day.  There  is  an  excel- 
lent inn  and  it  is  a delightful  experience  to  spend  the  night  there 
for  the  sake  of  the  sunset  and  sunrise.  Near  by  is  Muir  Woods, 
a grove  of  redwood  trees,  which  should  also  be  visited.  The 
route  is  by  Sausalito  ferry  boat  to  the  pretty  little  town  of  Sau- 
salito,  which  clings  in  a pid:uresque  way  to  the  side  of  the  hill. 
On  the  point  opposite  is  Belvedere,  facing  the  small  bay  which 
is  the  anchorage  for  the  house-boats  and  the  yachts.  At  Sausalito 


THE  ENVIRONS 

is  the  Mill  Valley  train  which  conneds  at  Mill  Valley  with  the 
ucrookedest  railroad  in  the  world.”  It  is  not  steep,  but  winds 
back  and  forth  as  it  climbs  the  mountain,  giving  a new  and  sur- 
passing view  at  every  turn.  The  ride  up  the  mountain  is  worth 
the  trip,  even  without  the  views  which  await  one  at  the  summit. 
If  it  is  clear,  the  bay,  the  towns  around  it,  the  hills  and  valleys 
and  little  lakes,  San  Francisco,  the  ocean,  the  Farallone  islands 
(twenty-seven  miles  out  in  the  sea)  and  the  mountains  of  the 
Coast  Range  can  all  be  seen.  If  it  is  foggy  below  and  sunny  on 
the  summit,  as  often  happens,  the  effed:  is  something  worth  trav- 
eling far  to  see.  To  stand  high  in  the  sunshine  and  look  down 
upon  waves  and  billows  of  fog,  tossing  and  tumbling  like  the 
ocean  in  a storm,  is  an  experience  never  to  be  forgotten.  Tamal- 
pais  means  the  country  of  the  Tamals,  an  Indian  tribe  which 
lived  in  that  vicinity. 

Another  pretty  trip  to  take  from  Sausalito  is  by  eledric 
train  to  San  Anselmo  and  San  Rafael.  The  piduresque  gray 
stone  buildings,  crowning  the  hill  at  San  Anselmo,  are  the  San 
Francisco  Theological  Seminary,  whose  president  is  Dr.  War- 
ren S.  Landon.  San  Rafael  is  a charming  town  with  a population 
of  between  five  and  six  thousand.  Here,  in  1 8 1 7,  was  established 
the  Mission  of  San  Rafael  Arcangel,  an  offshoot  of  the  Mission 
of  San  Francisco.  The  principal  reason  which  led  to  its  founda- 
tion was  to  check  the  feared  encroachment  of  the  Russians  from 
Fort  Ross.  No  trace  of  the  Mission  now  remains  save  a couple 
of  old  pear  trees.  The  present  Catholic  church  is  on  the  old 
Mission  ground.  Many  wealthy  San  Franciscans  have  homes  in 
San  Rafael,  and  many  lovely  places  are  half-hidden  in  the  hills 
all  the  way  between  San  Rafael  and  Sausalito.  The  drives  in 
Marin  county  afford  wondrously  beautiful  scenery. 

T HE  PENINSULA.-South 
of  San  Francisco,  down  the 
peninsula  (of  which  the  city 
forms  the  apex),  stretches  a 
line  of  towns,  schools  and 
beautiful  country  homes. 

At-  Burlingame  is  the 
Country  Club  with  a club 

[207] 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

house  and  the  usual  out-of- 
door  sports.  Here  also  is 
the  St.  Matthew’s  Military 
School,  established  forty-five 
years  ago  by  the  Reverend 
Alfred  Lee  Brewer,  D.  D., 
who  also  built  St.  Matthew’s 
church  in  San  Mateo.  The 
school  buildings  stand  in 
beautiful  grounds,  eighty- 
five  acres  in  extent,  among  the  foothills  of  the  Coast  Range.  The 
Reverend  William  A.  Brewer  succeeded  his  father  as  reCtor  of 
the  school. 

Further  down  the  peninsula,  at  Belmont,  is  another  excel- 
lent military  preparatory  school  for  boys. 

Near  Palo  Alto  are  the  beautiful  buildings  of  the  Leland 
Stanford  Junior  University,  founded  and  endowed  by  his  grief- 
stricken  parents  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  their  only  son,  in 
order  that  the  lives  of  the  sons  and  daughters  of  others  might 
be  the  richer  and  better  because  theirs  had  lived. 

In  building  this  university  there  was  the  rare  opportunity 
to  construct  a homogeneous  group  of  buildings.  The  cloistered 
quadrangles  of  Stanford  are  of  Mission  type.  The  buildings  are 
of  yellow  stone,  harmonious  with  one  another  and  with  the  land- 
scape. The  university  suffered  much  by  the  earthquake.  Two 
new  buildings  fell,  and  the  wonderful  Memorial  Church,  with  the 
exquisite  carvings  and  mosaics,  became,  through  a fault  in  con- 
struction, a chaotic  ruin;  but  faculty  and  students  rallied  to  the 
president’s  call, “Let  us  remember  that  this  is  the  time  to  prove 
that  it  is  men,  not  buildings,  that  make  a university.”  Gradually 
the  buildings  have  been  replaced. 

The  president,  Dr.  David  Starr  Jordan,  a man  whose  name 
adds  lustre  to  any  institution,  is  one  of  the  strongest  forces  for 
good  on  this  coast. 

A trip  to  Stanford,  including  a drive  through  the  campus, 
a visit  to  some  of  the  buildings  and  a drive  through  the  old  Stan- 
ford stock  farm  at  Menlo  Park,  is  most  enjoyable.  From  Palo 
Alto  eleCtric  cars  give  frequent  service  through  the  beautiful 


THE  ENVIRONS 

Santa  Clara  valley  to  Los  Gatos  and  San  Jose.  Coaches  run  daily 
from  San  Jose  to  the  Lick  Observatory  on  Mt.  Hamilton,  the 
gift  of  James  Lick,  whose  remains  are  buried  beneath  the  great 
telescope.  The  observatory  is  affiliated  with  the  University  of 
California.  Visitors  are  received  daily,  but  only  on  Saturday 
nights  are  they  allowed  to  look  through  the  telescope. 

Trips  down  the  peninsula  may  be  taken  by  Southern  Pa- 
cific trains  from  Third  and  Townsend  Street  station,  or,  as  far 
as  San  Mateo,  by  elebtric  car  leaving  Fifth  and  Market  streets. 

The  Wishbone  Trip,  by  automobile,  covers  in  one  day  one 
hundred  miles  of  the  bay  region,  Santa  Clara  valley  and  penin- 
sula. At  8:30  a.  m.  an  automobile  may  be  taken  at  the  Palace 
Hotel  or  the  St.  Francis  which  crosses  the  bay  to  Oakland,  runs 
through  Fruitvale,  along  the  foothill  boulevard  to  Haywards, 
and  on  to  San  Jose;  back  through  Santa  Clara  and  Palo  Alto 
(with  a visit  to  Stanford  University),  through  Menlo  Park,  Bel- 
mont and  San  Mateo.  The  fare  is  eight  dollars. 

From  Twelfth  and  Mission  streets  a trip  may  be  taken  over 
the  Ocean  Shore  to  Half-Moon  Bay,  where  are  some  of  the  old 
adobe  houses  of  the  Spanish  days  “before  the  Gringo  came.” 

The  bay  itself  affords  the  opportunity  for  delightful  excur- 
sions. A sight-seeing  trip  around  the  bay  is  made  twice  daily  by 
the  steamer  Empress,  which  leaves  a wharf  between  Howard  and 
Folsom  streets,  two  and  one-half  blocks  south  of  the  Ferry  Build- 
ing, at  10  a.  m.  and  2 p.  m.  The  fare  for  the  three  hours’  trip  is 
one  dollar. 

For  the  same  price,  on  a steamboat  of  the  Monticello  line, 
one  may  take  the  longer  trip  to  Vallejo,  where  connexion  is 
made  with  the  ferry  boats  to  the  Mare  Island  Navy  Yard,  and 
with  ele&ric  trains  which  run  through  the  beautiful  Napa  valley. 
As  the  boats  make  six  round 
trips  daily,  a half  or  a whole 
day  may  be  taken  for  the 
excursion.  Very  nice  meals 
are  served  on  these  boats. 

The  wharf  is  at  the  foot  ot 
Clay  street,  just  north  of  the 
Ferry  Building. 

[209] 


Looking  Into  the  Quadrangle,  Stanford  University. 


V 

MAPS  OF 

SAN  FRANCISCO  • THE  BAY  REGION 
AND  EXPOSITION  SITE 
• INDEX  • 


1 


.VALLEJO 


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NAVY  YARD:\ 


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[ 2 1 3 ] 


Relief  Map  of  the  Bay  Region 
and  the  Peninsula. 


Pacific  Ocean 


10 


11 


15 


IB 


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If 


15  1®  17  18  19  20  21  22  23  24  25 


14  15  16 

[2I5] 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

3 

9 

10 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

ta 


The  Plan  of  the 
Panama-Pacific  International 
Exposition 

at  the  Harbor  View  Site. 


BAY  - OF  * JAN  ♦ FRANCIJCO  ' 


Academy  of  Sciences,  25, 
65, 1 7 1 . 

Addis,  Yda,  185. 

Affiliated  Colleges,  171. 
Agassiz,  Louis,  186. 
Aiken,  Charles  S.,190. 
Aitken,  Robert,  75,  85. 
Alameda,  53^200,  202. 
Alamo  Square,  88. 
Alemany, Archbishop,  27, 

1 1 5- 

Alcatraz  Island,  96. 

Alta  California,  1 82,  1 84. 
Alta  Plaza,  88. 
Amundsen,  Roald,  73. 
Angel  Island,  4,  97. 
Anthropological  Museum, 

I7V  I75* 

Appraiser’s  Building,  122. 
Arboretum,  66,  76. 
Arguello  Family,  93,119. 
Armory,  State,  1 26. 

Art  Galleries,  I 71,  173. 
Art  Institute,  175. 
Atherton,  Gertrude,  47, 

94,  l88>  !9G  J95 • 
Aviary,  The,  67. 

Ayala,  Juan  de,  4,  97. 
Ayuntamiento,  82. 

Baker’s  Beach,  80,  89. 
Baker,  Senator,  23. 
Bancroft,  Hubert  H.,  1 70. 
Bancroft  Library,  170, 
205. 

Barrett,  Lawrence,  155. 
Bartlett,  Governor^,  183. 
Bartlett, Wm.  C.,186. 
Bay  Trips,  209. 

Beach  Chalet,  73. 

Bella  Union,  1 9. 

Berkeley,  52,  53,  203. 
Bernal  Park,  88. 

[ 2 1 7 ] 


Index 

Bierce,  Ambrose,  1 85,1  89. 
Bigelow,  Henry,  1 89, 1 9 1 . 
Black  Point,  95. 

Black,  Winifred,  191 . 
Blanchet,  Father,  1 1 5 . 
Bohemian  Club,  159. 
Bonner,  Geraldine,  188. 
Booth,  Edwin,  155. 
Booth,  Junius  Brutus,  155. 
Boucicault,  155. 

Brannan,  Samuel,  9,  182. 
Broderick,  David  C. , 1 2 1 . 
Brooks,  Noah,  I 86. 
Brown,  J.  Ross,  186. 
Bryant,  Edwin,  9. 

Buena  Vista  Park,  81. 
Bulle tiii,  The,  190. 

Buon  Gusto  Restaurant, 
151- 

Burgess,  Gelett,  1 5 1 , 189. 
Burlingame,  207. 
Burnham,  Daniel  H.,  50. 

Cable  Cars,  50,  56. 
California  Market,  152. 
Californian,  The,  9,  1 1 , 
182,  184,  185. 
California  Star,  9,  182. 
California  Theater,  156. 
Call,  The,  1 9 1 . 

Camera  Club,  1 61 . 
Cameron,  Miss  D.,  141. 
Campi’s  Restaurant,  1 5 1 . 
Carmany,  John,  186. 
Carson,  Dr.  L.  C.,  202. 
Casey  and  Cora,  1 9,  190. 
Central  Pacific  Railroad, 
23,  200. 

Chain  of  Lakes,  70. 
Children’s  Hospital,  178. 
Children’s  Playground, 
62,  76. 

Chretien,  Adele,  191. 


, Y 

ChronicleBldg.,  1 29, 193. 
Chronicle,  The,  192. 

City  and  County  Hospi- 
tal, 179. 

City  Hall,  51,1  26. 

City  Hall  Square,  87. 
City  Hotel,  82. 

Civic  Center,  51,  88. 
Clark’s  Point,  5 40. 

Cliff  House,  26,  78. 
Climate,  37. 

Clipper  Ships,  17. 

Cohn,  Dr.  Elkan,ii7. 
Coleman,  Wm. T.,  27. 
College  Clubs,  164. 
Colleges  and  Schools,  1 76. 
Colton, Walter,  9,  182. 
ColumbiaPark  Boys’Club, 
88. 

Columbia  Square,  88. 
Commercial  Club,  1 6 1 . 
CommonwealthCl’b,  1 6 1 . 
Concordia  Club,  162. 
Conservatory,  65,  75. 
Coolbrith,  Ina,  185. 
Coppa’sRest’nt,  1 30,1  50. 
Cosgrove,  J.  O’Hara,  1 89. 
Cosmos  Club,  162. 
Coulter, W.  A. , 1 29. 
Crabtree,  Lotta,  155,1  56. 
Cox,  Palmer,  182. 

Creek  Route,  53. 

Crocker  Bldg.,  1 29. 
Crocker,  Charles,  23,  66. 
Crothers,  R.  A.,  190. 
Cummins,  AdleyH.,  188. 
Cummins,  Mrs.  A.,  188. 

Daily  News,  1 9 1 . 

Dana,  Richard  H.,  8,  92, 
97,  102. 

Danziger,  G.  A.,  189. 
Davis,  Samuel,  188. 


Davis,W.H.  81,97, 199. 
De  Haro,  Francisco,  6. 
De  Quille,  Dan.,  183. 
Derby,  Colonel,  184. 
Development  Board,  53, 
172. 

Dewey  Monument,  85. 
De  Young,  Charles  and 
M.  H.,  192. 

Docks,  Steamship,  53. 
Donahue  Fountain,  180. 
Donahue,  J.&P.,55, 1 80. 
Doxey,  William,  189. 
Drake,  Sir  Francis,  3. 
Drydock,  55. 

Duboce  Park,  89. 

Earthquake  of  1906,  30. 
El  Camino  Real,  85. 
Elder  & Co.,  Paul,  133, 
190. 

El  Dorado,  19,  123. 

Elks,  The,  162. 
Emergency  Hospital,  179. 
Emperor  Norton,  29. 
Euphemia,  40. 

Eureka  Valley,  43. 

Ewer,  Rev.  F,  1 1 3,  184. 
Examiner , They  191. 

Fairmont  Hotel,  145. 
Family  Club,  162. 
Farallone  Islands,  79. 
Fennell,  Miss  Nora,  105. 
Field,  C.  K. , 3 1 , 3 2,  190. 
Field,  S.  J.,  1 2,  61,  1 42. 
Figueroa,  Governor,  5, 6. 
Fior  dTtalia,  I 5 1. 

Fires,  Early,  15. 

First  Alcalde,  9. 

First  American-born  Child, 
81. 

First  Bank,  82. 

First  Cable  Car,  56. 

First  Church  Built,  108. 
First  Eledlric  Cars,  56. 


INDEX 

First  Gas  Lighting,  17. 
First  Hotel,  82. 

First  House,  6. 

First  Map,  6. 

First  Mayor,  48. 

First  Newspaper,  9,  82, 
182. 

First  Road  to  Mission,  7. 
First  School  House,  82. 
First  Ship,  4. 

First  Steamer,  1 2. 

First  Store  Building,  82. 
First  Street  Surveyed,  6. 
First  Theater,  154. 
Fisherman’s  Wharf,  54. 
Fitch,  George  Hamlin, 
167,  192. 

Fitch,  G.  K.,190,  1 91. 
Fitch,  Henry  S.,200. 
Fitch, Mr. & Mrs.T,  188. 
Flood  Bldg.,  1 29,  157. 
Flower  Vendors,  1 8 1 . 
Flume,  20. 

Fly  Trap  Restaurant,  1 49. 
Foote,  Gen.  L.  H.,  1 85 . 
Ford,  J.  McD.,  1 84. 
Forrest,  Edwin,  155. 

Fort  Baker,  96. 

Fort  Blanco,  93. 

Fort  Gunnybags,  19. 

Fort  Mason,  95. 

Fort  McDowell,  97. 

Fort  Miley,  89,  96. 

Fort  Point,  39,  93,  96. 
Fort  Ross,  7. 

Fort  Scott,  93,  96. 
Fourgeaud,  Dr.  V.  J.,10. 
Franklin  Square,  89. 
Fremont,  JohnC.,39,  95. 
French  Hospital,  179. 
French  Library,  170. 

Galvez,  3. 

Garfield  Square,  89. 

G.  A.  R.  Posts,  165. 
Geary,  John  W.,  1 7,  48. 


Geary  St.  Railway,  56. 
Geberding,  C.  0.,I90. 
George,  Henry,  1 86, 1 91 . 
German  Hospital,  179. 
German  House,  162, 
Gilman,  President,  1 86. 
Gjoa,  The,  73. 

Goat  Island,  96. 

Gold  Discovery,  10. 
Golden  Era,  The,  183.  . 
Golden  Gate,  39,  96. 
Golden  Gate  Park,  Routes 
to,  74. 

Golden  Pheasant  Restau- 
rant, 152. 

Goodman,  Joseph,  188. 
Grand  Opera  House,  157. 
Great  Highway,  77. 
Greek  Theatre,  203. 
Gump,S.&G.,  1 32,  175. 
Gwin,  W.  M.,  1 21. 

Hahnemann  Hosp’1,179. 
Half-Moon  Bay,  209. 
Hallidie,  A.  S.,  50,  56. 
Hallock,  Henry  W.,  1 30. 
Hall  of  Justice,  122. 
Hamilton  Square,  89. 
Happenberger,  Frank,  87. 
Happy  Valley,  43. 
Harbor  Commis’rs,  53. 
Hart,  Jerome  A.,  188. 
Harte,  Bret,  94,  143, 
183,  185,  186. 

Hayes,  Col.  Thomas,  43. 
Hayes  Park,  153. 

Hayes  Tract,  21 . 
HayesValley,43,49, 103. 
Hearst  Building,  193. 
Hearst,  Mrs.  Phoebe,  1 7 1 , 
204. 

Hearst,  Senator,  1 91. 
Hearst,  W.R.,  191,  203. 
Hittelljohn,  3, 1 84,  185. 
Hittell, Theodore,  3, 1 20, 
169,  185,  190. 


Holder,  Charles  F.,  185. 
Holly  Park,  89. 

Holman,  Alfred,  188. 
Hopkins,  Mark,  23,  174. 
Hopper,  James,  46,  85. 
Horse  Cars,  22,  56. 
Horticultural  Com’r,  53. 
Howard,  John  G.,  204. 
Hudson’s  Bay  Co. ,7,  45. 
Hume,  Hugh,  1 89. 
Hunt,  Rev.  T.  D,,  108. 
Hunter’s  Point,  55. 
Huntington,  C.  P.,  23,68. 
Huntington  Falls,  68. 
Hutchings,  Jas.  M.,  184. 
Hyde,  George,  9. 

Immigration  Station,  97. 
Impressio?is  ^rter/y,  190. 
Institute  of  Art,  174. 
Irwin,  Wallace,  45,  187. 
Irwin,  Will,  141,  149, 
173, 189. 

Italian  Quarter,  44,  45. 

Jack’s  Rotisserie,  149. 
Japanese  Tea  Garden,  63, 
75- 

Jeems  Pipes,  1 84. 
Jefferson  Square,  86. 
Jenny  Lind  Theater,  1 23, 
154- 

Job,  Peter,  147. 

Jordan,  Dr.  D.  S.,  208. 
Judah,  Theodore  D.,  23. 
Jules’  Restaurant,  149. 
Jury  Brothers,  147. 

Kearney, D., 28,  87, 1 20. 
Keeler,  Charles  A.,  124, 
Keith,  Wm.,  1 10,  174. 
Kelly,  Allan,  191 . 

Kerr,  Orpheus  C.,  183. 
Key  Route,  52. 

Key  Route  Trips,  205. 
King,  Clarence,  186. 

[ 2 1 9] 


INDEX 

King  of  William,  James, 
19,  1 19,  121,  190. 
King,T.S., 23, 111,183. 
Kip,  Bishop,  13,113,1 86. 
Knapp,  Adeline,  1 9 1 . 

LaFayette  Park,  88. 
Lagoons,  43. 

Lake  Alvord,  70. 

Land’s  End,  80. 

Land  Titles,  22,  201. 
Lane  Hospital,  178. 
Langlois,  Father,  1 1 5. 
LangsdorfF,  Dr.,  100. 
Lark , The , 189. 

Latin  Quarter,  83. 

Law  Schools,  177. 
LeConte,  Joseph,  1 86. 
Lee,  Custis,  93. 

Leese,  Jacob  P.,  5,  7,  8 1 . 
Lick  House,  23,  25, 143. 
Lick,  James,  24,  71,  87, 
172. 

Lick  Observatory,  209. 
Life  Saving  Stations,  74. 
Lime  Point,  39,  96. 
Lincoln  Park,  89. 

Lincoln  Way,  60. 

Lloyd  Lake,  69. 

Lobos  Creek,  20,  43. 
Lobos  Square,  89. 
Lodges,  1 59. 

Lone  Mountain,  46,  1 8 1 . 
Lotta’s  Fountain,  180. 
Loughead,  Flora  H.,  188. 
Luna’s  Restaurant,  1 5 1 . 

Maguire,  Thomas,  I 54. 
Map,  Official,  20. 
Marchand’s  Rest’nt,  145. 
Mare  Island,  97,  209. 
Marin  County,  38,  206. 
Market  Street,  47,  49. 
Marsh, Geo. T. , I 34, 145. 
Marshall  Square,  87. 
Masonic  Temple,  162. 


Massett,  Stephen,  183. 
McCullough,  John,  155. 
McEwen,  Arthur,  188, 
189,191. 

McGeehan,  W.  O.,  36. 
McKinley,  Pres.,  71,  75. 
McLaren,  John,  72. 
Mechanics’  Institute,  168. 
Mechanics- Mercantile  Li- 
brary, 168. 

Medical  Schools,  177. 
Meiji,  The,  1 34. 

Meiggs,  Henry,  19,  41 . 
Menken,  A.  I.,i  55,  183. 
Merced,  Lake,  4. 
Merchants’  Exch.,129. 
Merritt,  Lake,  201. 
Metropolitan  The’  tr,  1 5 5 . 
Metson  Lake,  69. 

Mile  Rock,  80. 

Millard,  Frank  B.,188. 
Miller,  Joaquin,  183,185, 
188. 

Mills  College,  177,  202. 
Mill  Valley,  53. 

Mines,  Rev. F.,  1 1 3, 1 14. 
Mining  Bureau,  53,  172. 
Mission  Dolores,  5,  26, 
106. 

Missionsin  California,  3,4. 
Mission  Park,  89. 
Monadnock  Building,  129. 
Montez,  Lola,  155. 
Montgomery  Block,  1 30, 
150. 

Montgomery  ? Captain,  8, 
9,  82. 

Montgomery  Street^  40. 
Monticello  S.  S.  Line, 97, 
209. 

Moraga,  Don  Jose,  91, 
98,  106. 

Mormons,  9. 

Morrow,  W.  C.,  185, 
188,  I 89,  1 9 1 . 
Mountain  Lake,  43. 


Mountain  Lake  Park,  90. 
Mount  Tamalpais,  38, 
53,  206. 

Muir,  John,  185. 

Muir  Woods,  20 6. 
Mulford,  Prentice,  183. 
Museum,  Park,  63,  172. 

Napa  Valley,  209. 

Native  Daughters,  162. 
Native  Sons,  162. 

Native  Sons*  Monument, 
181. 

Naval  Training  Sch’l,  96. 
Niantic,  40. 

Nob  Hill,  24,  46. 

Noe  Valley,  43. 

Norris,  Frank,  152,  189. 
North  Beach,  49. 
Northwestern-Pacific,  53. 

Oakland,  52,  53,  200. 
Oakland  Museum,  173. 
Occidental  H’t’1,23, 143. 
Occidental  Board,  1 41. 
Ocean  Boulevard,  77. 
Ocean  Shore  R.  R.,209. 
Odd  Fellows,  163 . 

O’ Farrell,  Jasper,  47. 
Older,  Fremont,  190. 
Olympic  Club,  79,  161. 
Orpheum,  158. 

Overland  Monthly , 185. 
Overton,  G.,  188. 

Pacific  Building,  129. 
Pacific  News , 183. 
Pacific-Union  Club,  159. 
Palace  Hotel,  24,  143. 
Palo  Alto,  208. 

Palou,  Father,  91,  98. 
Panhandle,  61. 

Parker  House,  142,  154. 
Park  Lodge,  75. 

Park  Museum,  63,  172. 
Parkside  Line,  60. 

Park  Water  Supply,  72. 


INDEX 

Parrott  Block,  130. 
Patigian,  Haig,  181. 

Paul,  John,  185. 
Peninsula,  The,  207. 
Peninsular  Trips,  209. 
Peralta  Family,  199. 
Phelan,  Jas.  D.,  1 8 1 . 
Phoenix,  J.,  142,  184. 
Pickering,  L.,190,  1 91. 
Piedmont,  52,  202. 
Piedmont  Art  Gal’ry,  175. 
Pig’n’ Whistle  Rest’t,  1 52. 
Pioneer  Magazine,  184. 
Pioneer  Park,  90. 
Pioneers,  Daughters,  1 64. 
Pioneer  Society,  25,  163. 
Pixley,  Frank,  188. 

Plank  Roads,  8, 1 7,  48 . 
Plaza,  The,  8,  14. 
Pleasant  Valley,  43. 

Point  Bonita,  80,  96. 
Point  Lobos,  4,  17,  96. 
Point  Reyes,  3,  79. 

Polk,  Willis,  83. 

Pollock,  Edward,  1 84. 
Pony  Express,  22. 

Poodle  Dog,  146. 

Porter,  Bruce,  83,  189. 
Portola-Louvre,  148. 
Portsmouth  Square,  8, 14, 
81, 197. 

Portsmouth, The,  8,  82. 
Post  Office,  125. 

Post , The,  1 91. 

Prayer  Book  Cross,  69, 7 1. 
Presidio,  5,  91,  99. 
Presidio  Parkway,  94. 
Press  Club,  163. 

Public  Library,  168. 

Quarantine  Station,  97. 
Quiros,  99. 

Ralston,  W.  C.,  24,  1 28, 
143,  156. 

Raymond,  John  T.,  I 56. 


Realf,  Richard,  188. 
Refugees,  77,  86,  88,95. 
Rezanov,  93,  100. 
Richardson,  D.  S.,  185. 
Richardson,  W,  A.,  5,  7. 
Rincon  Hill,  46. 

Rincon  Point,  5,  40. 
Roach,  Phillip,  191. 
Robertson,  Peter,  192. 
Roman,  Anton,  186. 
Roosevelt,  Pres.,  85. 
Royce,  Josiah,  185. 

Russ  House,  22,  143. 
Russian  Hill,  45,  119. 
Russ’  Garden,  17,  153. 

St.  Ann’s  Valley,  42,  103. 
San  Anselmo,  53,  207. 
San  Carlos,  4,  97,  99. 
Sand  Lot  Party,  28. 

San  Franciscan,  The,  188. 
San  Francisco’s  Name,  9. 
San  Francisco  Seals,  15. 
Sanguinetti  Rest’nt,  151. 
San  Rafael,  53,  207. 
Santa  Clara  Univ.,  177. 
Santa  Fe  R.  R.,  52. 
Santillan,Father,i03?  1 14. 
Sausalito,  52,  53,  206. 
School  of  Design,  175. 
Schussler’s  Art  Rm.,175. 
Scottish  Rite  Tmpl.,  163. 
Scott,  Rev.  Wm.  A.,  1 10. 
Seal  Rocks,  79. 

Semple,  Robert,  9,  182. 
Serra,  Junipero,  3,  75, 99. 
Sharon, Wm.,  62,  200. 
Sherman,  Wm.T.,  1 9. 
Shreve  Building,  1 30. 
Sight-seeing  Autos.,  196. 
Sight-seeing  Cars, 59,  i 96. 
Sill,  Edw.  Rowland,  1 85. 
Sloat,  Commodore,  8. 
Soldiers’  Monument,  1 8 1 . 
Somers,  Fred’k  M.,  185. 
Sothern,  E.  H.,  1 56. 

[220] 


Soule,  Frank,  183,  184. 
Southern  Club,  164. 
Southern  Pac.  Ferries, 53. 
Southern  Pacific  Hospital, 
179- 

Southern  Pac.Sta.,52,59. 
South  Park,  47,  49,  90. 
Spreckels  Bldg.,  1 29, 193. 
Spreckels,  Claus,  64. 
Spreckels,  John  D.,  191. 
Spreckels  Lake,  70,  76. 
Stadium,  72,  76. 
Stanford,  Leland,  23. 
Stanford  Univ.,  I 77,  208. 
State  Societies,  164. 
Steam  Cars,  22,  49,  56. 
Steamer  Days,  36. 
Stevenson,  Robert  Louis, 
47,  83,  no,  143. 

St.  Francis  of  Assisi,  3. 
St.  Francis  Hotel,  86, 1 44. 
St.  Ignatius  College,  177. 
St.  Ignatius  Library,  170. 
St.  Joseph’s  Hospital,  179. 
St.  Luke’s  Hospital,  179. 
St.  Mary’s  College,  177. 
St.  Mary’s  Hospital,  179. 
Stoddard,  Charles  W.,  1 7, 
20,  46, 103,  1 20, 183. 
Stow  Lake,  68. 
Strawberry  Hill,  68,  75. 
Streets,  Direction  of,  59. 
Streets,  Names,  47,  48. 
Sub-Treasury  Bldg.,  122. 
Sunnyside  Park,  90. 
Sunset  Magazine , 190. 
Sutro,  Adolph,  25,  78. 
Sutro  Baths,  78,  173. 
Sutro  Gardens,  26,  78. 
Sutro  Library,  26,  170. 
Sutter,  Captain,  10,  1 1 . 
Sutter  Street  R.  R.,  49. 
Swain’s  Restaurant,  152. 

Taft,  President,  201. 
Tait-Zinkand’s,  148. 

[221] 


INDEX 

Taylor,  Bayard,  12,  13, 
14,  102. 

T aylor.  Rev.  W. , 1 4, 1 7 8 . 
Techau  Tavern,  149. 
Tehama  House,  142. 
Telegraph  Hill,  1 2,1 7,44. 
Temescal,  44,  199. 
Temple  of  Music,  65. 
Territorial  Enterprise, 
183,  188. 

Terry,  Judge,  1 21 . 
Tetrazzini,  Madame,  1 80. 
Tharp,  Newton,  85. 
Theological  Seminaries, 

1 77,  204. 

Thistle  Club,  163. 
Tiburon,  53. 

Tilden,  D.,  180,  181. 
Tollgate,  49. 

Town  Talk , 189. 
Transportation  Club,  1 64. 
T rue  Californian,  183. 
Turn  Verein,  163. 

Twain,  Mark,  143,  183, 
18;,  191 . 

Twin  Peaks,  46. 

Union  IronWorks,  55. 
Union  League  Club,  164. 
Union  Square,  85. 

United  Railroads,  56,  58. 
University  of  California, 

\77>'2° 3- 

University  Club,  164. 

U.  of  C.  Hospital,  1 78. 
U.  of  C.  Museum,  173. 
Univ.  of  the  Pacific,  177. 
U.  S.  Custom  House,  1 22. 
U.  S . Gen . Hospital,  179. 
U.S.  Marine  Hospital,  94, 
1 79- 

U.  S,  Mint,  I 23. 

Vallejo,  97,  209. 

Vallejo,  Gen. M., 27, 100. 
Vancouver,  100. 


m I 

vanNessAve.,34,35,48. 
Van  Ness,  James,  43,  48. 
Verandah,  The,  19. 

Ver  Mehr,  Rev.  Dr.,  1 13. 
Vickery,  Atkins  & Tor- 
rey,  133,  175. 
Vigilance  Committees,  1 8, 
19,  20,  83. 

Vioget,  Jean,  6,  47. 

Wade,  Dr.  Thomas,  156. 
Ward,  A.,  155,  183. 
Warfield,  David,  156. 
Washerwoman’s  Lagoon, 
43  > 48- 

Washington  Square,  90. 
Water  Front,  Original^©. 
W ave.  The,  188. 

W.  C.  T.  U.,165. 

Webb,  Charles  H.,185. 
Western  Pac.  R.  R.,52. 
Wharves  of  To-day,  53. 
Wharves,  Old,  41,  42. 
What  Cheer  House,  142. 
Wheeler,  Dr.  B.  I.,  203. 
Wiggin,  Kate  D.,  185. 
Willey,  Rev.  Dr.,  109, 
186,  203. 

Williams,  Rev.  A.,  82, 
103,  108,  176,  183. 
Willows,The,  1 8,43, 153. 
Winn’s  Restaurants,  146. 
Wishbone  Trip,  209. 

W oman’ s Exchange,  152. 
Women’s  Clubs,  165. 
Woods,  S.  D.,  143,  180. 
Woodward’s  Garden, 

1 53- 

Yerba  Buena,  5,  9,47,  81. 
Y erbaBuenaCemetery , 8 7 . 
Yerba  Buena  Cove,  40. 
Yerba  Buena  Island,  96. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.,  164. 

Y.  M.  H.  A.,  165. 
Young,  John  P.,192. 

Y.  W.  C.  A.,  165. 


HERE  ENDS  SAN  FRANCISCO  AS  IT  WAS,  AS  IT  IS,  AND 
HOW  TO  SEE  IT  . A BOOK  OF  INFORMATION  ABOUT 
. THE  CITY  BY  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  FOR  ALL  HER  . 
LOVERS  • WRITTEN  BY  HELEN  THROOP  PURDY,  PUB- 
LISHED  BY  PAUL  ELDER  AND  COMPANY  AT  THEIR 
TOMOYE  PRESS,  THE  TYPOGRAPHY  SUPERVISED  BY 
JOHN  SWART  IN  SAN  FRANCISCO,  SEPTEMBER,  MCMXII 


